(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,705 posts
  • 508 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by pinballinreno
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,116 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20191020_182734 (resized).jpg
20191019_165519 (resized).jpg
thorin_pinside3_8e6865a6-4876-41f9-b3e4-bdf343de74dc_large (resized).jpg
20191018_094742 (resized).jpg
20191018_092014 (resized).jpg
20191018_143112 (resized).jpg
DSC_0004 (resized).JPG
DSC_0002 (resized).JPG
DSC_0003 (resized).JPG
DSC_0001 (resized).JPG
20190930_142733 (resized).jpg
3AB4FCA1-9B0A-47E3-A410-199B753BCACA (resized).jpeg
received_311232306261863 (resized).jpeg
20190917_192204 (resized).jpg
hob2 (resized).jpg
hob1 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (3 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (3 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (3 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (3 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (3 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (3 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (3 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (3 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (3 years ago)

Post #1113 Noteworthy new owner issues and photos Posted by VolunteerPin (3 years ago)

Post #1358 JJP video on fix kit. Posted by tatapolus (3 years ago)

Post #1706 example of time marks order through delivery Posted by meSz (3 years ago)

Post #2007 Here's the code download link Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #2220 How to install Hobbit Cliffy protectors Posted by mbelofsky (3 years ago)

Post #3613 Nice tip on locktite product for wood or metal screws. Posted by pinballinreno (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider clellison.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#6768 6 months ago

My only "dislike" of this game thus far which also matches what another gentleman said ...... the roll over targets. I emailed backalley creations and asked them if they'd make rollovers that weren't as obnoxiously interfering with ball travel as the current buttons are. Something like old Gottlieb roll over height. I would imagine it's possible? I forgot how much I hated these stupid things when I owned a WCS 4 years ago. lol
TH is such a cool game especially now with the latest code and the pf fixes implemented. For the record I am a HUGE TH, POTC and LOTR fan. I'm actually glad I bought the TH over JJPPOTC. I own a LOTR and TH and I love to get my middle earth groove on. Thanks J. R. R. Tolkien!

#6795 6 months ago

I've read about disabling beast MB so it doesn't start while in SMB. Is this an actual menu setting or do you use the ring to forego the lock?

#6800 6 months ago

Is the disable beast mb in this menu? Prevent overlap w/multi ball?

20190413_130623 (resized).jpg
#6826 6 months ago

Shout out to Lermods. This back glass LED mod simply looks awesome, like this should have come out the factory this way. While it offers the option to get fancy with settings for flashing and speed of flashing, I find that distracting so I chose solid constant on.

20190415_234136 (resized).jpg

#6833 6 months ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Looks nice. At one point was going to order these for all my JJP's, but on pictures it looks like it is almost too bright compared to the upper part of the backglass. Seems to create a bit of an abrupt transition. In person, does this look seemless, or does it look like two levels of brightness?

The brightness of the mod is in line with the brightness of the top half. I believe what you are seeing is the stark contrast in color not actual light. The yellowish green of the sides and bottom VS a light blue on top. The picture was taken with flash off and is very realistic. It does absolutely appear seamless. If you look at the instructions by LER, the picture shows the led's on the side mounted high on the sides. I chose to "split the difference" which helped the mod blend nice with the top section and coincidentally helps throw more light at the bottom corners.

#6838 6 months ago

For sound, does it light up? If yes we know its plugged in and no need to chase the USB cable. You can mute the headphones. If theres an orange light lit on the panel its muted. Unite with lower right button.
If it's not lit up the USB cable is loose/unplugged from the interface board on the coin door or from the PC itself.
For the scoring aspect I scored just shy of 4mil with 16 modes. Completed 6 of them. I dont worry about scoring, I worry about staying alive, starting modes and enabling the 3 wizard modes and that's where you get the big points from. There's a ton of ways to milk more points but the money shots are the wizard modes.

20190421_201923 (resized).jpg20190421_202033 (resized).jpg
#6846 6 months ago

I finally beat Smaug after ~40 games. Took the second Smaug MB to do it. The only regret I have about this mode is unless you're lucky enough to be able to glance up quickly and get lucky enough to see the "arrow" being "delivered", it feels like luck is used more than skill. Almost makes me wish they'd inserted a ball drain, then ejected one ball which I feel better replicates the movie as it was ONE arrow not many. What would've been really cool is while the ball drain happens, the video clip of Bard appears playing the clip of when he tells his son, "You look at me" and a BLACK ball appears in play which then you could focus on killing Smaug and it would be more skill than luck. They could still program in the one ball feature and movie clip though
I digress. Anyway I have to say that was no where as easy as destroying the ring like on LOTR. Now that I've played this enough I fell like I can better understand some of the previous comments in this thread and others. One that sticks out is, "TH is just multi ball after multi ball". To a degree I guess? But having multiple balls going and forcing a person to remember "flipper position" in order to make shots because you sure as hell can't take your eyes off the flippers is super freaking challenging. It certainly makes TH different from anything I've played. Especially trying to hit those damn holes while watching is hard enough as it is let alone flipper position! HS is just south of 4 million, 19 modes started, 7 finished and haven't been able to fire off battle of 5 armies "yet" and I am king of every category except TABA which to me is another Valinor which is something else I've yet to accomplish. The day I do my LOTR is getting traded off. lol

The one thing I really despise about the design is ball hop due to the angle of the bottom of ramp. I think a kit with longer screws and a plastic wedge placed underneath the ramp to smooth the ball travel out would be the ticket.

#6851 6 months ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

First off, if you haven't turned off Smaug MB running simultaneously with Beast MB, turn it off in settings. Cuts down on continuous MB chaos. Not sure why it isn't a default setting, tbh.
Secondly, killing Smaug is always difficult and I'm glad it is. One of the best payoffs in pinball history. The first time I killed him I had no idea how I did it. After awhile you learn the queues. You try and wait for the "load the windlance" callout and then keep one ball on each flipper. Shoot the windlance ramp with the left flipper while taking aim at the missing drop target with the right flipper. Shoot the right flipper to kill him. Still very difficult but much more controllable.

I asked a few weeks back about how to turn off Beast MB during Smaug MB and of course did. While I like the gameplay MUCH better it certainly lowers the ole score lol.

#6859 5 months ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

I just bought a nib gold a few weeks ago. Been talking with JJP (Very nice people). They advise that there are just a few "mods" or "factory recalls"...
1) drop springs (11)
2) Beast plastic adds (4)
3) ramp flaps (2)
4) left ramp/rail (1) - I bought the rail in lieu of the post fix.
Is there anything else I need to make this 2016 a 2019?
As a side note. I've been having (see another post), issues with Smaug. There are times when he turns full left and vibrates and purrs. If it is continuous, you'll get a boot-up error. Most times I've noticed it and gone into the controls and manually exercised him right and left. I really hope that this isn't a long term problem that sets me back later for a warranty issue today.

It's safe to say every TH owner will have to rebuild Smaug with a new servo. It's a matter of when not if because man made bound to fail.
Here's what I did to my machine after unboxing:
1.) Update the code to 3.4
2.) Once pitch and level are set, play a few rounds and adjust flipper and VUK coil strength where needed.
3.) I had to bend the right hobbit trail (the curved section) "up" a little as I had too many balls flying off and getting stuck on the right hand plastic "3rd flipper" area. ( Flipper strength was lowered - but still too common on a super clean shot.)
4.) Disable overlap of Beast MB in menu system. Provides a much better game experience IMHO
5.) Lift playfield and see if there's screws floating around in bottom of cab. I found 2 laying in the bottom and one that was ready to fall out of the playfield.

#6860 5 months ago
Quoted from kjlors:

Anyone now how Beorn add a ball work? How do you know if it's active? How do you activate it?

The target’s position and orientation means it can only reliably be hit by a sufficiently fast ball shooting down the outlane with just the right amount of momentum to bounce off the rubber ring and hit the standup target. If the game has a liberal (or no) tilt then you might be able to nudge the game enough to encourage the ball to hit the target, but as this only applies during multiball, your attention might be elsewhere when the ball sneaks down the outlane.

If you do manage to hit the Beorn standup, another ball is auto-launched to replace the one you just lost. If all the other four balls are in play, the same ball is re-launched as soon as it is ready.
"via Pinballnews.com"

#6866 5 months ago

Sorry, the manual is version 3.4 while the firmware is at 3.1

#6871 5 months ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

Metallica was my first NIB pin and I played the heck out of it, my next purchase was a NIB Hobbit. I ended up selling Metallica and still own Hobbit. The hobbit is a journey type game that starts slow and builds up to awesome finish. Looks bare at first but the pop ups are well coded and make the Playfield pretty fun. The magic is in the mini wizard modes, and also the standard modes. Smaug multiball is probably one of the best I have played and if you get to the finish you’re in for a treat. The drop targets are also well coded and a good challenge. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do...and you probably will.

Seems most Hobbit hate comes from people who didn't like the movies either....which is fine and understandable. If you loved the movies you'll love the pin. Second complaint is "floating". It's a wide body.... and a lower pitch makes the game slow "lots of ball floating" around time. Set the pitch fairly steep and adjust your flipper power accordingly. It's really a cool game, lots of depth. I always hated drop targets but this game really makes use of them well. Make sure your game has all the hardware fixes and enjoy the journey.

#6907 5 months ago
Quoted from joelbob:

So what is the verdict? My probably catches 30% of the time. Is that normal or not? Does anyone know if the code expects it to catch every time? If so what would cause it not to catch?

It's not exactly normal. I did notice more catch failures (1 out of 3) when I had the flipper coils hot. I "think" I set my pf up at a 7.3 degree angle and lessened the coil power to 22 on each? Since the change I might have a catch failure every great great once in a while.
To test my theory pull the glass off and manually press all 4 roll overs and then manually throw a ball down the channel changing speed and see if there's any validity to my theory.

#6930 5 months ago

Everyone, if you would like to see lower profile roll over buttons made please send matt@backalleycreations.com an email requesting them. I already have, but the more emails might make him jump on it. Here's his response to my request.
"Hi Chris, let me look in to this and see what can be done with it. I hate when games have that issue and I have seen it before.

Talk soon, Matt"

#6932 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I adjusted rollovers quite a bit.
There is tons of adjustment room built in.
I dont think its altogether necessary to replace th hem.
It took forever to get them just right (a couple hours lol)
Now they are perfect.

Post a pic please.

#6947 5 months ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

Thanks.
Is there any answer to the switch/bumper below "Preciouss"?

That's Beorn, and basically the only way to hit that is if a drained ball has enough speed coming down the pike. It'll bounce and tap that target thus adding another ball back into play. This is separate from Preciousss being lit and then using the mini game on the screen to get a ball save.

#6948 5 months ago

Oh man what a day. Started 22 modes, played Smaug MB 3 times, FINALLY got Battle of 5 Armies lit and I freaking wasn't paying attention and started a mode which cancelled out the ability to start 5 armies. Yeah, I lost my last ball on that mode. The Hobbit is no slouch of a game.

#6963 5 months ago
Quoted from jfaulkner56:

That's what he was saying, using spacers for the entire mount underneath. I just wonder how is this not happening to every single Hobbit game and not more of a widespread complaint? They definitely generate airballs and cause for quite a disruption to the path of the ball.

My friend I totally agree with you. It was a crap design that I very much dislike myself.

#6986 5 months ago

Im wondering if buying a roll of do it yourself automotive paper gasket and then putting it under both button and switch assemblies would be an ideal "fix". IIRC, the default thickness of the gasket paper would be about spot on for dropping the button height.

1 week later
#6989 5 months ago
Quoted from whitey:

Picking up my first Hobbit, Best Topper ?
Must have mods ? Not familiar with latest codes , game was bought new never played or updated
Thanks for any advice

Latest code is 3.1 - https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/

Must have mods: (Really only one "must" item as the clear coat isn't exactly fantastic on JJP games)
Full set of Cliffy protectors - http://www.passionforpinball.com/hobbit.htm

Otherwise:
Throne of Erebor is really cool - https://www.pixelsarcadegames.com/product-page/hobbit-pinball-erebor-throne-mod
Back glass illumination - https://lermods.com/products/the-hobbit-woz-pinball-led-strip-translight-side-lights-kit
Topper - only one really. https://laseriffic.com/products/hobbit-topper

Potential tweaks:
Disable stacked multi ball in settings menu
Bend metal under apron to fix ball kick out issues - discussed a few posts up from this one
Lower flipper coil power in settings menu if balls fly off hobbit trails
Bend right hobbit trail "up at curve if still happening when coil voltage is lowered. (Ball will fly off right hobbit trail and land on the plastic above 3rd flipper getting stuck requiring removal of glass)

#6996 4 months ago

how to get the spinner shots down?

The only answer is practise. This is exactly like playing pool on a bar table and then going some where else and playing on a full sized table. This machine being a wide body and the spinners are a long ways away from the flippers. The distance/perception really screws with a person. I have the same problem but more so on the left loop than the right. Btw, 7.1 million

#6998 4 months ago

Back handing either spinner is super tough and not very rewarding meaning the spinners won't get enough spin to do squat other than collect the dwarves getting you closer to feast frenzy which is OK because you do need it. Spinner reward (getting to Erebor) is definently easier using left flip to right loop and vice versa.

Here's what I do. Skill shot ALWAYS roll overs. You need Smaug mb in order to collect the Arkenstone to be able to start the mini wizard modes. Use the book ramp and select an easy mode that you can beat (for instance the ring) to collect the Arkenstone. Use ring to delay 3rd lock, start another mode and start SMaug mb. Then shoot the right ramp (lock) to start Smaug mb. You'll "likely" collect 3 Arkenstones doing this. Smaug, the mode you started and feast frenzy which will start after smaug mb ends. When feast frenzy starts, focus solely on the spinners because you only have to start feast frenzy not finish it to collect the stone. Get to Erebor, collect your stone. Then put your focus on collecting the last stone by starting beast frenzy. At some point you should see your spinner loops light up green. Hit those because they'll add up to 2 balls into your next mode. It's kind of an insurance policy Once you're down to your last ball on beast frenzy, you'll have collected all 5 Arkenstones which allows you to play the mini wizard mode (into the fire being the first). Both holes (Balin/Ratagast) will be flashing orange, hit either one to start the mini wizard mode. Wash rinse and repeat.

Btw, to hit Ratagast using the right flipper.... hold your right flipper up as the ball comes down. It'll cause the ball to leave the flipper and if you time it right flipping your flipper will back hand the ball into Ratagast. Truly one of the most gratifying shots in this game. Also useful for collecting Kili

#7000 4 months ago

CONGRATS! ^^^^^^^^^

Does anyone suspect there will be another software update? I started a support ticket with a few requests.
1.) Audio cleanup of music while bonus is being showed. The snare drum sound is terrible and distorted.
2.) Eliminate the collecting of a reward when a mode is started "via the ramp" that requires use of the windlance. If you try to collect the reward showing on the screen the damn post will drop and your ball will drain or it ends up being the exact amount of power and the ball goes perfectly over to the right outlane. Insert Gollum "noooooooooooooooooooooo" here lol

Any other bugs you guys are seeing?

1 week later
#7052 4 months ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Had a nice 56 minute game tonight...[quoted image]

Not bad

20190608_130335 (resized).jpg
#7054 4 months ago
Quoted from finman2000:

I was waiting for someone to $hit on my parade.

You had a great score ... I said not bad. Sorry if you feel like $h1t on your parade. Feel free to one up me.

#7062 4 months ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

I'm looking at the Pinbits plastic protectors and it looks like they provide two sets of sling shot protectors. Does anyone know why that would be the case? Are there different versions of sling shot plastics for the game? I've emailed them directly to also verify that they are cut in clear plastic.

I bought the clear set. FYI it comes with 2 different asking protectors. You need to use the set that has the indent for the ball drop.

#7063 4 months ago

I spent 6 hours working on my machine yesterday. My ramp flaps curled and I figured when I pull the ramp itd be a great time to change rubbers, clean the uncleanable spots, add a full set of pinbits plastic protectors and of course add a full Cliffy set. It was just a huge bullshit mess. First of all that Cliffy set is not for the faint of heart. During the tear down I had two nuts that were cross threaded and the posts came out. I found BOTH posts for the gate leading to the pops were super loose and both radagast and Balin back stops were super loose. And taking the ramp out just sucks. So much for the ramp flap fix. I found the Erebor wood on the left side probably weighs a good 1.5lbs by itself.
A lot of the rubbers require removing so much to get too. It's an operators nightmare. Can't even imagine how much a shop would charge to shop this thing out.

Added 134 days ago:

Clarify, the wood structure being about a pound and a half was just an observance not complaint.

#7072 4 months ago

I've been getting through the first two mini wizard modes on a regular basis. It's always a bit of struggle to get to the battle of 5 armies but I have been making it. Is there a current rule sheet and/or has this mode not been finished yet? I'm incredibly lost as what to shoot. The pounding drums music is pretty cool and amps ya up but then quite honestly it feels underwhelming. Version 3.1

#7078 4 months ago
Quoted from punkin:

The Hobbit, on the other hand, is so very well lit and the light show has so much going for it and so much work and thought gone into it, i think it would be a real shame to disrupt the standard lights.

Fully agree. I contemplated doing it but I see everything perfectly so what's the point and the additional flasher colors would wipe out the already cool light show.

#7085 4 months ago

All 3 mini wizard modes are started by hitting radagast or balin when flashing arrows and mode lit above flippers.

#7098 4 months ago

Couldn't pull this off again if I tried.

20190615_184857 (resized).jpg
#7099 4 months ago

Best game I've ever had and only 5.2 million? Killed Smaug, made it through all the mini wizard modes with only 2 balls and back through to ITTF one shot away from victory. Played 21 modes beating 10 of them. Pic taken after BOTFA played. I have a problem playing BOTFA feeling lost. The call outs are pretty piss poor. Before the ball drained I was able to notice stage 2 has an elf drop target glowing green. Clearly that wouldve completed stage 2. Not a whole lot of documentation on that mode so if anyone cares to add please do.

20190616_113627 (resized).jpg
#7103 4 months ago

You think that's bad? Try doing the ramp, replacing all rubbers, adding a full set of Cliffys and full plastic protector set. 6 plus hour job. And whoever decided to have a gap under the rails needs to be bitch slapped for sure. Yeah I lost a couple nuts under there. While your ramp is out check back stops to both holes and the posts for the gate to the pop bumpers. All of mine were wobbly loose.

#7110 4 months ago
Quoted from Boatshoe:

The hard part for me was getting the optos BACK IN. Look out.

I HIGHLY recommend unplugging the optos from the board underneath and leaving them attached to the ramp. Those things are stupid troublesome to get snapped back in. Make a note on each molex what port they came out of on the board. Ask me how I know heh heh.

#7111 4 months ago

FYI I emailed JJP asking if BOTFA code was complete and the response was yes. That's a disappointment to me.
I've also noticed another SNAFU with the code. If you start a mode with more than one ball in play that uses the windlance and a ball drains on the right, if the draining ball hits the rubber just right the ball goes back up hitting the precioussss switch and drops the windlance post and drains your ball. Submitting a ticket to get that fixed. That's a huge FU right there!

#7115 4 months ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Well this would have been good to know yesterday...
I figured snapping them back in would be the easy part. Any good tricks for getting them back in?

Well, the optos are pressure fitted and yes multiple attempts weaken the "split pressure fittings" of the opto. Start putting the opto in at an angle with the fitting in the rear and use a butter or similiar to push the front side fitting and it'll drop in.

#7117 4 months ago

Sounds like a thread sticky needs to be added. DO NOT REMOVE OPTOS UNLESS FAULTY

#7121 4 months ago
Quoted from Bendit:

I am NOT looking forward to replacing my ramp flaps. NOT.

JJP sends 1/8" pop rivets as well as normal 1/8" rivets with the flap kit. I used the pop rivets since I already had a pop rivet tool. The kit says use a 1"8 drill bit. NO - use the next size up. Drill from the backside and the rivet will come out super easy. My ramp looked like complete dog crap so I used a light grade sand paper and wet sanded it. Take care to not pinch any opto wires and let it sit for a day to dry off. When installing the new flaps make sure the flap orientation is correct. The longer angled edge needs to go to the inside of the ramp (next to the captive ball). Get someone to help you! Have them pull out on the outer edge of the ramp wall to give your rivet tool just a little more room and press down hard and keep the head FLAT AS POSSIBLE.

#7124 4 months ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

Could you share pics w/ pop rivets?
Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced tool for using solid rivets on ramps? Looks like there are ~clamp-like tools out there that might work?

The cheapest pop river guns are ~$15. Just make sure it has different sized heads (whatever it's actually called I dont know). The default head is too big, the smallest head handles 1/8 rivets. Merely set the pop river in the hole on top of the ramp flap, slide the tool down the rivet shaft, ensure its flat as possible and squeeze the handle twice.

#7137 4 months ago
Quoted from Wickerman2:

I am not up to date. Did they make it harder to kill him? If so I’ll never update

Theres literally no reason not to update. There was a smaug mb fix at at some point. Look, I've owned my machine for a couple months now. Have killed Smaug 9 times. 4 of the 9 was me actually aiming and intentionally killing him. The others, random arrows if you will. And of the 4 only 2 of them was actually done with the 3rd flipper. When you hear load the wind lance try to get a ball cradled on a lower flipper and use that instead of the 3rd flipper.

1 week later
#7166 3 months ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Does anyone know what the color temperature is for the LED strip in the backbox? I'm guessing it's 6000.
Looking to add lighting on the side and bottom of the backglass art:
amazon.com link »
I should just be able to jumper off the existing strip with these:
amazon.com link »
All and all I should be able to do the whole thing for well under $20.
Thoughts?[quoted image]

You'll need to cut the led strip in 3 pieces. Then you'll need to solder wires connecting the other two pieces to the first one. Then on the end you'll solder another set of wires with the proper female molex to be able to connect to the 12v topper plug. You might want to also consider adding a dimmer switch. For the amount of time and little money you'll save you might as well buy a premade mod. I got one on mine and it's nice.

#7171 3 months ago
Quoted from coz6:

So on the latest code can't find where to adjust the windlance power I have adjusted the metal guide and it was feeding well updated code a bit ago and lost the setting what am I overlooking thanks

The factory default on ver 3.1 should be fine as is.... at least it is for me. The wind lance isnt always reliable/consistent and I suppose it accurately represents using a bow per say. However during the mode where the windlance and 3rd flipper are used to hit the dwarf target, it should fairly regularly shoot the ball into the Kili entrance. Since it's a coil you should be able to find the setting in the coil section of the service menu.

1 week later
#7194 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinchild:

Did you shop the machine?
If so was it hard?
I got mine today and am ashamed to admit it has 28,000 games played on it.
Seems to work fine but the 4 posts that light playfield are all not on? Any ideas.
Thanks in advance for any information.

I'd bet money the LEDs have failed. Those bulbs suck to get out. Use a pair of needle nose pliers. Pull one that's working and put it in one that's not. And as Lloyd said, those are 12v bulbs so make sure you order 12v replacements. And shopping the machine out so sucks. Take my advice and check the back stops on the holes (can do as is by using your fingers). Mine were both stupid loose. When you shop it out, you'll have to pull the ramp which is no great joy to do, but when you do schedule yourself time to install a set of cliffy protectors. If your ramp flaps are curled now is the time to replace them as well. The clear around the holes is very likely to crack and chip. With the ramp out of the way you can clean the backside of the playfield. Ensure the pop bumper wire form gate posts are secure. Mine were super loose.

#7198 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I waited until the silver ones actually started cracking from being re-bent so many times.
It's not too bad.
Unplug the opto's under the playfield.
Remove a few screws.
Get smaug out of the way, 4 scews.
Use a tight fitting screwdriver on the tiny screws in the flaps, press firmly.
Don't strip the heads.
It fits pretty tight, a little finesse and slight warping, its out!
Installing the flaps is pretty straightforward.
If you can, use the press rivets instead of the pop ones, they last longer but either will work.
Working slowly with a lot of distractions took me 45 mins.
This included cleaning and waxing underneath.

IIRC you also have to remove both hobbit trails. Take pictures and make note where your optos plug into the board.

#7234 3 months ago
Quoted from Gattiman:

How often does smogs head move left to right? I can’t seem to get it to move in test and it moves very rarely during play. Like I can go entire days without seeing it move. It’s really weird. Mouth moves and lights work everything is connected as far as I can tell. I’m wondering if it only moves during specific events and I’m too busy playing to notice.

Smaug is very interactive - at least with version 3.1 (If you're not current do it)
The first two times you lock a ball he should spin and taunt you and return to the left.
When ramp lock lights for the 3rd time Smaug should turn fully to the right, staring directly at you and random taunts (thief, liar etc).

1 week later
#7257 3 months ago
Quoted from XpertDBA:

The 'F' drop target goes up, but once up it will not go down when the ball hits it, and the tests are showing it malfunctioning too. Any easy fixes for a non-technical guy like me?

"Apparently" JJP found the supplied springs were sub par. They now offer a beefier spring. Buy a complete kit and swap all your springs.

1 week later
#7271 87 days ago

My Warg mech stopped registering hits. After removing the mech (expecting to find a chopped wire) what I found instead was the switch activator was missing a bolt. Low and behold, not only did I find the bolt for it but also found a screw,a spring, a broken c-clip, washer and a round spring looking thing. I fixed the beast mech and reinstalled. The cool part is the parts generally land underneath the part so I found the shooter lane switch had chucked the switch screw. The other one was loose as hell - fixed as well. Now where does all these other parts go to? AHA! Goes to A of the man target. The long spring had broken, the c-clip had broken and the washer and spring went to that as well. I was actually happy to see I didn't have to pull the whole mech to fix....or do I? Seriously .... the small coil is flopping side to side. I'm not sure exactly how that attached to the drop target and maybe with the drop target lacking tension is allowing it to flop? I've contacted JJP about this a little bit ago so I don' have an answer so I figured I'd ask here. I'm hoping I don't have to tear the entire mech out to fix the flopping coil issue.

I will say I'm growing tired of it seeming like every time I raise the play field there's more components laying there that I have to play "where's waldo" and trying to find where stuff goes. I can only hope after time JJP figured out OPs aren't going to be happy having to fix stuff that could've easily been avoided using screws/bolts with the blue thread locker stuff on em. I've never owned a part chucking game like this before

#7281 83 days ago

I plan on attacking the lock buttons after I fix my drop target issue. They sit too high and they literally cause air balls and failed ramp shots not to mention effect ball travel. I had spoken to Matt at backalleycreations about producing either a spacer kit or new buttons. He said he'd take a look at it and that's as far as it went. This issue was discussed a couple months ago. I'm going to look into buying a roll of make your own gasket paper and see if that'll be enough to drop them low enough and still perform decently.

#7287 81 days ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

So I think I just cracked the case for Lock Rollover Buttons that don't press down flush.

With all due respect, using your finger to press the button down VS the ball going over are two very different things. You cured one ailment that those who chose the protector have/had. Now you have the same problem as the rest ..... the buttons sit too high and cause air balls not to mention ball redirection. (Though that's indicative of this type of switch). Is it really a problem? No, not really. However for me it's just a major annoyance and I feel an improvement can be made. Over time you'll notice the edges of the buttons start to look chipped/scratched..... and rightfully so due to the angle the ball is hitting them thus producing air balls. There's a video of slow motion showing the ball taking flight after going over the button. Lowering the button is really the only solution here.

#7288 81 days ago

Progress fix update:
As I previously reported issues with my drop target assembly - I ordered replacement parts. I had told JJP support the small coil on one of the drop targets was sloppy loose. They sent me a diagram - and while appreciated it wasn't overly helpful. I REALLY didn't want to remove the drop target assembly but I had too to fix the sloppy coil issue. In order to do this you have to cut the zip tie that holds the drop target harness to the rest of the machines harness. Remove the 4 screws to remove the opto board, disconnect the wiring harness and then remove the 4 screws from the target assembly mount itself and pull it out taking care to fish the smaller wire assembly found up top. (don't remember what it's for). In order to get to the small coils you must remove the 2 outside drop targets. Remove c-clips and take notice the lower mount/post has a washer, spring, washer, c-clip. 1 washer underneath on each post as well.
Now remove the two screws exposed on each side. The small coil bracket assembly is now loose. You will need to lightly pry on one side of the bracket to clear the large coil. At this point your small coil assembly is loose. You will see each small coil is held in place by a screw. Now is the time to bullet proof/rebuild your assembly. Remove each small coil screw and add a very small amount of blue loctite.
NOTE: When reattaching the small coil bracket to the main assembly ENSURE YOU PAY ATTENTION that the "armature" of each coil goes back into the holes. It will reassemble however the armatures potentially won't be in their holes and you have to slightly bend them to get them back in which you don't really want to do as it weakens the integrity of the metal - and there's not much there to start with
I suggest you remove the large coils and either clean/replace the coil sleeves. Also replace all 3 long springs. Those springs suck to replace while the unit is mounted so save yourself a headache - it's not if it's when. Reassemble your unit and reinstall.

On a side note: The spot light lamps are pretty poor quality. I had 3 out of the 4 stop working. Thought the bulbs were bad as wiggling the bulb didn't help - nope. I read some where of people talking about bending the bulb legs out, wrapping black tape and then reinserting. LED legs are pretty damn stiff - I find bending the legs outward about 1/4" and reinserting is enough. Those bulbs suck to extract as it is - IMHO adding black tape is only going to make it worse.

#7292 80 days ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Ever since I've owned this beauty of pin, I wished there was some physical model to represent Hobbiton and I kept eyeing the empty space just above the Bag End feature lamp that leads to the pops. So this Friday I took a day off work and set my mind to finally making something that would look good there, but not obstruct anything on the playfield. It's a bit of tricky area with two layers of plastics to work around.
I came up with this first draft. I think it looks really good so far and fills that void that was bothering me. The green shades I used for the grassy areas need to be a closer match to the surrounding plastic artwork, but I'll save that for the next iteration.
The pictures below are before I applied a matte clearcoat to the finished model, so it's currently curing.
I'm also working on the overall shape to make it look a little less like a clock
Any other suggestions would be welcome![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you're making these, how about a smaller lower profile design and add the hill it's built into? I think that would look fantastic. And then add the windows and a light. I would definitely buy that!

#7304 79 days ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

I'm with you on that! After measuring, I decided that the final model can be no taller than 65mm or it will start to obstruct the visuals in the pops. The pic below is an eye level view. I'm going to try to stay within that footprint. Probably have a little bit of play on the left and right to add inset hill details.[quoted image]

Maybe design it and sell it raw and let the new owners paint it and add lights. And get the Radagast cliffy fixed!

#7308 78 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I agree - it doesn't appear to block the shot at all - but I wish it would fit more flush with the PF.
NOTE: There is a small strip of double sided tape under it, so make sure you use that. I removed the film, cleaned the PF, and stuck it on as part of the install - but it didn't hold. I was thinking I would order another set of Cliffy's and replace it but I was waiting to see if the design of the piece changed a bit first.

I've owned several Cliffys and to be honest they didn't stick for shit. So, since I' being honest I will also add I do think it was my fault.
Use the alcohol pads and scrub the hell out of the playfield to remove the wax. Paper towel dry and scrub it hard. Do the alcohol again and paper towel it again. Remove tape cover, apply Cliffy ensuring you start with securing the very front edge down FIRST. Why? Great question glad you asked. Hey dummy, that's where the 3m sticky is LOL. Seriously because you want full adhesion on the tape and then bend the back sides to line up with the the post holding it down. If you do it backwards you run the risk of stressing the metal and thus adding stress to the tape from the side. And DONT crank down the posts. This also causes undue stress on the entire protector. DO NOT PLAY YOUR GAME FOR AT LEAST 24 hours. Let her sit and cure. I honestly believe that is what has screwed me every single time up until my Hobbit and new Funhouse play field. Since doing it as I described both machines are perfect. No lifting, they sit flat. I failed on my LOTR and WCS94. They both popped within a week and I don't care what you say, that little bit sticking up has a chance of screwing up a slow roller and ruining your potential high score and then your kids get beaten because your mad. "Will nobody think of the children?!" ~Alfrid Lickspittle

#7315 78 days ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I just joined the club and the only thing I’m wondering is why no dedicated shot from the upper flipper?

The flipper serves many purposes.
Killing Smaug
Hitting dwarf targets
Directing ball flow out of the right orbit toward left lanes to potentially get warg or ELF target
Balin shot .. also useful for extra ball
And if you're good enough you can make the left ramp shot.
Collecting Thorin
Adding more thorin awards towards extra ball
Collecting Erobor spinner award
Hitting orc for beast frenzy
Hitting orc for interrogation mode
You can squeeze a Radagast shot in

So what's this about it not having a dedicated purpose? Lol

#7332 76 days ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

What are your flipper power settings everyone? I'm getting a lot of nasty rejects from the left ramp. Ball gets up it with plenty of pace but seems to hit the corner where the right side sections meet. The only way I've found to get around this is to crank my left flipper to max power. This powers it through the clunk but then I feel that flipper is far too strong for everything else.

First ensure you're not dealing with ramp flap curl. For whatever reason it seems to he more predominate on the left than the right. Keep in mind the lock buttons cause air balls which also affects ball speed/trajectory.
Secondly, the ball should have enough speed/power to make the ramp shot but not where it hauls ass. If the flipper power is set too strong, the ball will fly off the hobbit trail on the right and potentially cause magnet catch issues on the left. There truly is a fine balance to set when it comes to flipper power on this game. I should mention I did have to ever so slightly bend the right hobbit trail to allow enough flipper power on the right flipper. The ball would fly off and get stuck on the right hand plastics which requires pulling the glass.

#7342 75 days ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Game just had the new ramp flaps installed by JJP. My old ramp had lots of curl and still shot better than this one does. I swear it's something with the geometry of this new ramp.

Check the ramp anchor screws - and what I mean by that is if you screw those down all the way it introduces ramp curl. Back em off a bit and look at that ramp flap from every angle ya can and ensure you don't see a "curl" type shadow.

#7357 72 days ago

I believe to have found a bug and reported it. Smaug Multiball victory lap no balls getting auto plunged.
I just had this occur for the first time after ~13 times of killing Smaug in the past. This is what I believe to be a code bug. I had Roast Mutton running and killed Smaug. The balls drained as expected but it wouldn't load up balls to auto plunge. I had to manually load a ball into the shooter lane. Closed the coin door and the ball was auto plunged but the flippers were still dead. The ball drained and then the machine started auto plunging balls for the victory laps of which I was able to play then.

#7359 71 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Bad or loose trough sensor or cable?
Game was waiting for all balls to drain?

Never say never but I dont think so on either comments. I played another round and like normal boom smaug dies, balls drain, auto plunge does its job and the game moves on. I've heard of one other person that had this issue happen. No ball search no nothing when this happens. I'm at 14 times now of killing Smaug and I'm fairly certain when the incident happened it was the first time Roast Mutton was running. If it's a code issue I'm grateful it'll be rare.

#7364 69 days ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Managed to finish Riddles in the Dark this morning which allowed a 4x Into the Fire. Over 770,000 from that after falling just short of Level 4. Just got lucky that Riddles gave easier shots than normal stacked with a multiball. Finally cracked a Million! (I don't allow Beast and Smaug multiballs to stack.)[quoted image]

Congrats. This games scoring is a real head scratcher compared to most. I gave up on actual scoring and focused on completing modes (want to see TABA). I've made it all the way to and past BOTFA and I think my score was around 2.7 million. Couldn't believe it especially since I had also beaten Smaug. In all fairness I didnt do fantastic on all 3 mini wizard modes but damn I expected more. I play 3 ball btw.

#7392 64 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

EDIT: Here are some more differences (off the top of my head)
3. The captive ball is black on the BA and chrome on the SSE (I put the black one in my SSE)

Nope, only 1 of the 5 tough balls are black not the captive ball/s.

#7397 64 days ago

Both Newton and captive ball are chrome on my BA.

#7434 63 days ago

Lift playfield, push beast mech up all the way and insert a rag, wadded up paper, dead animal..... what ever keeps the mech fully extended. Drop playfield. Remove clips, remove springs, remove mech lid. Lift playfield again, remove rag/wadded paper/dead animal, disconnect wiring harness, unscrew and remove mech.

#7436 63 days ago
Quoted from pipes:

Curious if we can just replace the beast entirely with the dead animal?

No. You'd have PETA busting down your door and I don't know about you but I hate the smell of patchouli oil.

#7444 59 days ago
Quoted from Ponzie:

Wouldn’t the coil move the Orc all the way up?
The coil sleeve has wear marks but is clean. When I move the target up and down manually, it moves freely.
Switches seem fine but not quite sure what to check there...
Attached are a few photos if that helps...
Thanks for the assist here! Hope to get it working... first time doing some surgery here...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You have 3 switches. It's been a while since I've had mine out so forgive my lack of memory but IIRC the cherry switch tells the machine the mech is fully extended so I'd focus on the leaf switches first. It's acting like a switch is engaging too soon. The tolerance on the face switch is very very tight. Insert something thin and non conductive between the blade contacts. If it still does it then do the same to the back leaf contacts. If it persists then disconnect the cherry switch.
Now, if for some God forbidden reason it's still acting grumpy hook the beast mech up to another beast mechs harness. While I highly doubt it, if the mech starts working then it's a board issue.

#7459 58 days ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

@dr-pin The issue is with the playfield lights/LED's, not the LCD screen. The motherboard outputs to the light/LED board with a USB to Micro USB cable, which I have tried replacing already.
@pinballcharlie The majority of my google searches lead me to WOZ threads, it seems this is very rare on Hobbits. If I could just get a replacement LED board for this game I would try that immediately but JJP doesn't seem to sell replacements for Hobbits, only WOZ. The seller claims this issue never happened while they were operating the game on location but I did overhear them telling another employee "good riddance" as I was carrying the pin out to my car, so I'm beginning to wonder if what I was told was bullshit.
Fairly confident this will be the last/only JJP I purchase, I really enjoy the game but am growing to resent it as a new issue seems to pop up every time I play. Do you guys have similar experiences or did I just get a lemon? I've had sound quality issues (resolved w/ ground loop isolator), stuck beast mechs (partially resolved by realigning mech), false switch registers (need to adjust switch still), stuck drop targets (still not sure on this one), and broken plastics (slings), all within the game being in my house for 10 days. Not what I expected for a machine at this price point.

The drop targets are used a ton and so are the beast mechs. Of course one would expect issues. The drop target issues, the target has a plastic ledge... if the ledge is worn replace the target. If the target doesnt reset it's likely to be either a broken spring or the small coil locking screw is loose or came out which requires full disassembly to get to it. You're able to test that theory by seeing if the coil is sitting cock eyed and you can move it back and forth.
The beast mechs binding up and/making noise. Realign but maybe add a thin film of lubricant between the metal cage parts. Whatever that stuff is called that people use on their spinners.
The Hobbit is some what of a mechanical nightmare but it's the price you pay for having cool toys. I suggest you get a whole set of new springs on hand too. Oh, and the back stops of both holes are infamous for becoming super loose. Use your finger and see if there's any slop to em. Mine was a floor model and the clear coat started to crack around the holes. Get a set of Cliffys on it ASAP. (PS, that job is NOT fun to do).

#7467 58 days ago
Quoted from Breger1:

I was wondering if anyone could help with a screen problem. This started occurring last week, the screen image has shifted down, as you can see the top about 3 inches are totally black. And bottom images and even my score during play is not readable.[quoted image]

IIRC, the LCD control panel has an option in its menu to reset defaults. Give that a whirl.

1 week later
#7512 48 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Joined the club this week with a Black Arrow! I put up just over 1.3 million on my second game and haven't got very close since haha. My game was setup to play pretty fast and tough by the previous owner/factory (no center post, outlanes wide open, close to 8 degrees, no post rubber on one side). I do have the hiss or hum from the speakers. I ordered one of the ground loop parts to hopefully solve that one.
Any updated rulesheet out there for the 3.10 code?
Also any must read posts or must have tweaks/mods?
thanks!

Pretty sure if you lift the hood and remove the top of the CPU metal box you'll see a small black box mounted on the back right side. That is a ground loop isolater which I am fairly confident the BA version came standard with it. Might want to check before you order.

#7516 48 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

This game does not seem to have one. No worries, 10 bucks from Amazon and gets delivered tomorrow.

I am sincerely shocked it doesn't have one! The BA supposedlt came out with ALL the fixes installed. I know it's a cheap item but mine was factory installed with all the other fixes implemented as well.

#7525 46 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Any rulesheet for the latest code out there?

Everything is pretty well documented with exception to Battle of the Five Armies. I've been tempted to pull the glass and document it but I want my first time to be special HAH HAH! I've never beat that level let alone got past stage 3.

#7532 46 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

Can anyone tell me which bit of the menu (if any) control the sub sounds? Thinking it maybe Fanfare?
[quoted image]

Buy a sub that has a volume knob or install a cross over. Considering JJP machines are 12v should be super easy to implement and would actually help clean the bottom end sound up that much more allowing you to separate the frequencies and use the cab sub more of a mid sub and the one underneath as your thumper.

#7534 45 days ago
Quoted from wolv3:

What's needed to hook up a sub? Any recommendations on what sub to get?

RCA male to dual female RCA signal splitter plugged into the PC audio port.

#7537 45 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

The sub has a volume knob and a cross over but i am running three machines through it. I want to turn the bass down on the Hobbit, leave it as is for Deadpool and turn it up for Spiderman. I'll just pull the cover off the mixer and use the internal volume controls, i thought it may be something i could do in the menu easier is all.

With all due respect that has to sound like garbage sometimes. Best results will be had by individual subs.

#7545 45 days ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

How the heck do you keep this game going with three balls.

I've made over 7 mill. Serious nudging. Anytime the ball comes remotely close to hitting the top portion of the left sling nudge it. During multi balls keep your focus on the flippers and right outlane.

Quoted from gordonshumway:

I hit the spider and it fly's right straight through the post?

Attempt to hit the sides not straight on.

Quoted from gordonshumway:

What incline degree angle should this be set to?

Personal preference. 6.8 to 7.1 - Just remember the higher you go the faster it will play but also require you to increase coil strength levels. Also increasing coil strenth can cause balls to fly off the hobbit trail and you may have to bend them a tad.

#7556 43 days ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

Has anyone had problems with the pop ups, well, not popping up? I've had to do some service to the warg pop up over the last few months, and I thought I'd fixed this problem when I replaced a bad up/down sw. All the parts seem to be working independently, but in game, the damn dog tries and fails to pop up!

Are you saying the mech doesnt come up at all or it does pop up but then goes back down? If it's the latter, one of the leaf connections is registering as a hit and the machine assumes it's legit. Adjust the switch. Also, new doesn't necessarily mean good. Everything eventually fails. Since you replaced the switch it's possible the solder connection broke. If the wires are still attached use a multi meter and test that switch.

13
#7564 42 days ago

Gawd am I king of the chokers. Killed Smaug twice, played all 3 mini wizard modes. Got farthest I've ever been in battle of the five armies. Choke. Freaking cool ass how it winds down. Got to Barrel Escape 2nd time. Finally finished all 31 modes. White flashing gotta hit one of the two holes and I'd start TABA .... choke. SON OF A B.....
Still not a bad score but fOR A FREAKING hour and 45 minute game playing 3 ball but you'd think it'd be a hell of a lot higher.

20190910_204154 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#7579 35 days ago

Holy cow that was AWESOME. Finally belong to the club! Take note 15 shots of 32. 32? I thought there was 31 modes?
And for the life of me I cannot beat BOTFA. BB still has high score lol
20190917_192204 (resized).jpg

#7581 35 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Nice! How long were you at it?

Thanks! I'm guessing around an hour 30ish? I play 3 ball and drained the first two fairly quick. Oddly enough I told myself it only takes one ball. I ended up getting 3 extra balls along the way. Killed Smaug twice, played through all 3 mini wizard modes twice.

#7585 34 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

That's pretty cool man. I have not even got close to that. Getting through Into the Fire is a good game for me haha. I had seen someone post about playing for over an hour. Man that would probably leave me done for the night on a game like this with constant intense multiball activity and crazy light shows.

What helped me is I pretended the machine was telling me I had a small wee wee and I refused to allow such treacherous statements as such. I had to prove it wrong. In fact when I entered my initials Gandalf congratulated the keeper of the brass balls. LOL. (OK that parts not true)

I don't think there's any real "proven secret sauce" to this game but here's what I tend to do (in no particular order).
1.) If the Warg or Spider pops up flashing blue take the shot. Otherwise you may play hell waiting to get WARG and/or Spider down the road.
2.) Avoid actual Smaug locking when possible and shoot the loops when flashing green to obtain the add a ball at max of 3 when possible See #3).
3.) REMEMBER during Smaug MB that a mode will start by shooting the right ramp and being in MB mode increases your chances of qualifying. So Smaug MB is SUPER serious stuff - but not to worry about killing Smaug, but by focusing your efforts you can achieve completion of Feast Frenzy, Smaug MB, Erebor and a mode leaving only Beast frenzy left to qualify to get to your mini wizard mode.
4.) Practice and master hitting right VUK with right flipper and left VUK with Left flipper. WAY easier than trying to shoot opposite corners with opposite flippers. You can do this by stalled ball (easiest) or by holding up the appropriate flipper which will make the ball jump up and you can backhand in.
5.) Mini Wizard modes - just survive if your goal is to reach TABA. Otherwise play like hell to complete it!

Hope this helps!

#7587 34 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

Great post. Any other tips?

Actually I do have a few more. There's 2 modes that I very much dislike. I "think" it's called Radagast or catch Radagast? I stall the ball to let it timeout. I swear that mode is designed to drain you based upon the beast mechs being up and if you hit the loop from the left the ball tends to have a habit (or should I be witty and say hobbit?) Of running a greater risk of a right side drain from bouncing off the Warg mech. The other mode I dislike is moon runes. I stall the ball because a lighter flip towards the ramp and if the diverter gate comes down you run the risk of a SDTM scenario happening.
And probably the one most important piece of advise I can give is once you get an Akenstone "ramp mode" qualifier done forget about completing any other ramp modes you may start. You run the risk of draining. Turn your efforts to obtaining the other Arkenstones. Once again, I cannot stress enough that Smaug MB is the greatest tool to use to get/advance to the next mini wizard mode and ultimately TABA.

#7595 32 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

two questions -
1) how do you earn the right outlane target to go into that mode where you can press ring button at the right time to ball save?
2) I hear a horn every so often while playing usually coming out of pops to right flipper. Is that a hurry up and if so, is it captive ball? never know what to do but I assume it means something
btw - this is the best lit game (brightness) out there in the modern era.

Mystery award lights the Gollumn ball save.
I believe the horn you hear comes from when the ball exits to the right flipper after achieving 15 pop bumper hits. A dwarf target will be very temporarily lit blue. If you hit it, an opportunity to achieve an extra ball is created.

#7599 31 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

Awesome thanks.
Remind be how do you light that mystery? Center captive ball?

The ball mist travel through one left in lane and one right in lane. Keep in mind mystery offers several awards not just the precious save.

Quoted from Reaper802:

My right hole is just about impossible to backhand. It's either way too early or clunks out. I think the Titan post sleeves are just a touch bigger in diameter than the stock ones were making it a much harder shot.

Might be? I'm using factory. To be very clear you cannot 'dead cradle" a shot to the VUK. The ball needs to barely clear the post when you flip. I typically hit it more often than not so if your posts are larger you just made your game that much harder lol.

#7601 31 days ago
Quoted from pineal:

Does “dead cradle” mean flipper engaged and ball at rest? Because that’s what I’m doing, and hitting it pretty reliably.

Yep. Your titans must be thinner than regular rubbers. And come to thing about that, that's actually too bad because to pass from flipper to flipper you dead cradle a ball and flip and the ball will ricochet / bounce off the sling rubber over to the other flipper. I'm sure there's a fancy term for that but I dont know. I just like pinball hah!

#7605 31 days ago
Quoted from pineal:

Are you guys able to hit the right hole from the top flipper? I’ve done it a few times on accident but don’t really have an approach for it. Also, is anyone able to reliably hit the ramp from the top flipper?

No on both... more of a fluke usually. Desperation shot is if the orc mech is up I can sometimes bounce off the side of that to the vuk. For hitting the ramp that's almost always a fluke as well.

And yes! Post pass thank you

#7609 31 days ago
Quoted from VALIS666:

Just got a new Smaug edition this morning (along with Wonka). Such a beautiful machine. Just need Dialed In (around Xmas, I'm thinking) and hopefully a Pirates turns up near me someday for less than a small fortune or they do a re-run, and my JJP obsession will be complete. Gotta give it up for my local boys (I grew up down the road from Lakewood), even in an era with a lot of flashy, eye-catching tables, the JJPs are second to no one in looks.
I shit a Warg-sized brick when I turned it on and after the boot sequence only the spotlights came on, but reseating everything on the LED boards and to the computer box got the LEDs back and working first try, thankfully. Anyway, just one question: The ball eject next to Smaug's head (it drops the ball to the hole underneath) doesn't eject well. Probably just needs a little bending here or there, or maybe a tightening or loosening of screws because all it takes is the slightest nudge to free the ball, but I need to do it every time it's up there. I assume this is a relatively common problem with a common solution before I go bending something I shouldn't, but searching this thread for "Smaug" turns up a billion unrelated items, obviously. I spent a lot of time leveling the game, so I don't think it's that.

My left vuk has always been (somewhat) prone to upkick failures. You can increase the coil power in the system menu. And maybe I'm wrong here but it's almost like the machine has some "smart" technology and if the ball eject fails it automatically bumps up voltage temporarily. (Or I'm on some drug that I'm not aware of) lol. What I believe to be the actual issue is the upkick wire guide is angled/tilted introducing resistance. Maybe by adding a washer (or three) under the back wire guide mount it might help. Start by jacking the coil power up though.

2 weeks later
#7646 15 days ago
Quoted from MarZ_78:

Does anyone know a good fix for narrow glass? My glass is narrower than the cabinet guides by 1/8" to 1/4". I thought there was a kit that we could buy but cant find info on it now.

Apparently, if you contact JJP they will send you the glass extenders for free.

#7648 13 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

If you need to have them a bit wider will that also help reduce the play field noise a bit?

If you're referring to stand up target noise and beast mech noise.... no. There is no quieting of those components.

1 week later
#7671 7 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I heard through the grapevine that Matt (Back Alley Creations) may have some new Hobbit mods that he is debuting at the Expo this weekend. Can someone that is going scope it out and report back?
I would love to see what he has - since he is the one that did the stock molds for the game. I have the gold coin flipper bat covers and that is all right now. Interested to see what he has done.
Thanks!

I hope Matt took my suggestion and made lower profile rollovers.

#7688 3 days ago

Beyond pissed. Game of my life and the machine takes several shits.
1.) Radagast switch decides to get flaky right as I kill Smaug. All balls drain except the one of course.
2.) One of the beast mechs stopped working
3.) Second time through Barrel Escape all but my last ball drains and the damn flippers act like I killed Smaug .... they went dead. Ball drains and my ultimate game ends. Luckily I just passed my GM score. But what bullshit that is.
4.) Ball save activated and then just disappeared and killed the save.
Played Taba and completed 26 out of 32
Killed Smaug 3 times

20191019_165519 (resized).jpg
#7694 3 days ago

Falling short of beating BOTFA I've seen and done everything on this game multiple times. I've become no stranger to hardware failures on this game (this time around was more bad timing than anything) but this wonkiness of ball save randomly disappearing and the flippers going dead is making me consider dumping it. Apparently JJP has decided that the code is "finished" so no more updates. I tested my flippers and they do work, I just cannot imagine going into another marathon hour and 45 minute game and having this shit happen again. I'm going to report this to JJP, and I suspect I won't hear anything back. But this behavior just might warrant a code update and maybe, just maybe a few other bugs and recommended code changes I've reported/recommended might get implemented.

#7700 2 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

I'm trying to get my head around a continuous play of almost two hours of Pinball. Wow

Sometimes things just align. The game gives you an opportunity for an extra ball or the pop bumpers pop 15 times and the ball exits through the gate to the upper right flipper and a dwarf target turns blue and if hit it gives you the chance for an extra ball as well. I suppose one can simply say the longer you play the more opportunities one has at getting an extra ball

Quoted from pinballinreno:

These issues remind very much of the LOTR issues a ways back.
Getting to Valinor is also a 2hr marathon.
Hence the cooling fans that a lot of guys added.
Heat changes things and not for the better.
The cab is pretty well ventilated.
It just might need active air exchanges at some point, in the PC case, as well as the cabinet.
And discrete cooling here and there.

I also have a LOTR. Have owned for 5 years now set on 3 ball. Never made Valinor... not once. The coils do get tired no doubt! I should stop being a lazy shit and get fans on em. Longest game just shy of 1.75 hours on that one. Weak coils and sweaty hands from nerves and I choked. Lol

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
8,500
Machine - For Sale
Milford, CT
From: $ 42.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ModFather Pinball Mods
7,000 (Firm)
Sale Pending!
Hauppauge, NY
$ 49.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pixels Arcade Games
From: $ 24.00

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider clellison.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside