(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

8 years ago


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  • 12,997 posts
  • 745 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by LTG
  • Topic is favorited by 272 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (8 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by iepinball (8 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (8 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (7 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (7 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (7 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (7 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (7 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#6439 5 years ago

I've been meaning to bling out my Hobbit, but I haven't pulled the trigger on anything yet. I have collected a list of mods for blades, mini-figures, and lighting, but I'm curious what others have done and still love. Also, one thing I have not been able to find are target decals. These seems like an obvious mod, but my googling skills have failed me to date.

Please share your favorite mods for this amazing machine. I really want to make it show piece.

Thanks!

9 months later
#7818 4 years ago

What is the max power draw on The Hobbit? I'm thinking on putting my pins on a smart power strip, but it has a fairly low limit.

8 months later
#8814 3 years ago

I want to attach an external subwoofer to my Hobbit. It looks like there is an open RCA connection on the sound board. It's the open socket rightmost in picture next to the yellow connection. Should I use that?

photo (5) (resized).jpgphoto (5) (resized).jpg

2 years later
#12017 10 months ago

I have a rare but annoying issue. Curious if anyone has run into this and knows a fix for it.

Everyone once in a while, a ball stays at the bottom of the right hole. It's out of view when looking down, but it rolls into the VUK mechanism when I left the machine from the left. Looking at the ramp underneath, I can see how a ball could rest in the gap between the ramp and the VUK.

Last time this happened was during a multi-ball. I assume a ball was rolling down the ramp while another was in the VUK, but not yet ejected. The rolling ball collided and rolled back and before coming to a rest in the gap. Pure speculation that's what happened, but somehow a ball is resting out of view in that hidden ramp.

Thoughts?

Ramp (resized).pngRamp (resized).pngRight hole (resized).pngRight hole (resized).png
#12019 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What is your playfield pitch at?
Mine is set at 7.2 degrees.

Assuming I can trust the app on my phone, it shows 14.7°.

#12020 10 months ago
Quoted from bjorg:

Assuming I can trust the app on my phone, it shows 14.7°.

Never mind, noob mistake. I measured the glass inclination. The playfield is at 6.6°.

#12025 10 months ago
Quoted from ls1chris:

LOL!! good catch! that must be crazy slow and floaty, i didnt even realize there is a subway under there and i have a smaug version from preorder, i i havn't lifted the PF once, i guess i should have a look under the hood.

I'm a total beginner at pinball. Slow and floaty is just fine in my book! But I'll try to pitch a degree more and report back. Since nobody else seems to have run into this issue, maybe that will be enough. Otherwise, I'll reach out to JJP. BTW, I'm also the first owner of this Smaug edition. Such a fun package, but I haven't played it as much as my other machines.

#12029 10 months ago

I ordered a digital level so I can dial in the inclination to 7.2°. I'm not trusting the app on my phone for that.

In the meantime, are there any decals to make the yellow plates behind the drop targets less boring? (Sorry for the blurry photo!)

DWARF Drop Targets (resized).pngDWARF Drop Targets (resized).pngMAN Drop Targets (resized).pngMAN Drop Targets (resized).png
#12031 10 months ago

Those look great! Thanks for sharing!

#12032 10 months ago

Okay, so I'd like to adjust the inclination of my playfield to 7.2°, but where should I measure that? It looks like I get different values at different spots on the playfield. Very confused...

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#12035 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Playfields sag a lot.
I measure between the flippers, then the middle of the open area, then near the ramps.
I try to calculate a very rough average of 7.2 between the 3 measurements or somewhere close to that without being too steep near the ramp.
the last time i measured, I had around 7.6 near the ramps.
Your measurements look similar to mine, maybe a little less steep, but pretty good.
I think I was 6 at the flippers, 6.9 in the center, then 7.6 at the ramp. the combined should equal around 21.5
Also make sure that the playfield is super level horizontally.
The game can be a bit floaty if its not steep enough.
People have reported 8 or 9 degrees near the ramps, I think that is too steep.

I’ll continue tweaking it, but as it is, my front feet are almost at the lowest and my rear feet are already at the highest position. And the ball eject takes 5 tries before it finally gets the ball out. That’s probably a strength adjustment, but to me, this feels already too steep. Still, I’ll give it a shot and see for myself.

#12042 10 months ago

So, I made the pin steeper (but not 7.2°) and the ball got hung again in the track under the playfield. This time, I used a snake camera to find out more about what's going on.

As far as I can tell, it's getting stuck on the rivets. Any suggestions on what I could try to smooth it out?

Stuck ball (resized).pngStuck ball (resized).pngTrack (resized).pngTrack (resized).png
#12051 10 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

A piece of mylar a few inches long over that area.
I wonder if there was flat head studs there sticking down and got replaced ?
LTG : )

I'm the first owner. No work has been done in that area.

I inclined the pin to the max and that doesn't help either. I was hoping to find a solution that did not require experimentation. Alas...

2 weeks later
#12144 9 months ago

Now that my machine is playing great again, I need some pointers on how to master it. I looked at the modes chart, but was curious if there were any recommended videos or blog posts on strategies for playing it.

#12157 9 months ago

What’s the issue with the ramp flaps on the Smaug edition?

1 month later
#12436 8 months ago

I got the mirrored gold blades only to find out my cab is too tight for them. So now I'm pondering if it's possible shave off 1mm of the inside cab. It sounds like a terrible idea, but I'm not one to easily give up! Thoughts?

#12443 8 months ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

How thick are they? And what are they made of?

They are made of metal. Pics of them have been posted by another forum member some pages back. They really finish off the gold look on the Smaug Edition.

Quoted from screaminr:

I got black mirror blades for GNR and I thought they would be too tight . With the Playfield up , I pushed it across to one side as much as I could and then squeezed in both mirror blades and the protectors , to check the gap . Really try before you start attacking your cabinet .
If you have no choice , I would go with an orbital sander .

Unfortunately, there is no wiggle room between the playfield and the cab. It’s tight as hell.

Quoted from flashinstinct:

Would it be possible to sand the back side of the blades to reduce the thickness without affecting anything?

The blade is about 1mm thick. I think that would be even harder.

—-

I’ll ask some local trades people if they would be up to the challenge. It would entail removing the back box from the hinges and lifting out the playfield. Then lining the inside to protect it from the saw dust. Drawing the outline of the mirror blade and then sanding off about 1mm of wood from the inside of the cab. All that seems feasible, other than being precise enough with the sanding on the depth.

I’m really bumped out that I can’t just install the mirror blades. The Smaug Edition is a such a beautiful machine with the exception of the plain black sides on the cab.

1 month later
#12514 7 months ago

With regard to installing the gold blades, I got the version listed as compatible with JJP. It has holes where the bolts for the backbox hinge are, but they look too small to go over the bolts. Do you have to remove the bolts and then reattach them? Confused modder here...

#12528 6 months ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I ordered a set. Are they really that easy to install as many pinsiders say? What if you make a mistake and the strip is not centered or off parallel. Can you reapply?

I messed up on one of the strips by attaching it to the wrong side. Tooke me a few minutes to realize once I had installed it. It peeled off easily and went on right away again. So, definitely noobie friendly!

2 months later
#12636 4 months ago

I finally got the inside mirror blades installed. It's a tight fit! In particular, the front screws cause some friction. I'm thinking on using glue, but not sure if there's a better alternative or even what type of glue use to bond metal to wood.

Any suggestions?

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