Anyone know if I can fit a Hobbit into a 2016 Toyota Rav4 (non hybrid)?

Thanks!
I would never have guessed the BB would be easy to remove on this game!
No matter though, I was reasonable sure it would fit, so I drove 200 miles and got a beautiful Hobbit Smaug!! So it fits! Game is awesome! Wife loves it the most!!
I'm in the club!!

Now to figure out why the left lower flipper EOS switch is erroring as open. The last owner changed the EOS switch and no go. I guess he talked to LLoyd and was advised that it's probably a break in the wire some where? Haven't had time yet to check it out. In other words, if I pull up the flipper, there is no registration in switch test?

I'm sorry, I mean the right lower flipper.

Thanks!
This should solve my problem. I'll get to as soon as I get some time and report back.

Do any of you guys use an under cab lighting kit for Hobbit? If so, which one? I see Mezel mods makes an interactive kit, anyone try this?

OK,
thanks to Energyspike I fixed the lower right flipper EOS switch! It turned out to be a bad connector at the plug into the rear of the metal PC box. Like him, I pulled out the black/brown stripe wire and bent the crimp wider and secured it back into the connector housing and was good. I also learned along the way that even if the EOS switch is detected by the computer to not be functioning, the software will only allow a maximum signal pulse such that the coil operates, but will not be energized enough to over heat and melt! How cool is that?
Thanks again!!!

Which fix kits are available for The Hobbit. As I understand it, there are heavy duty springs for the drop targets, brackets for the beast doors (to prevent balls from getting caught), and a redesigned left wire form (to prevent balls from hopping over kick back post stop? Anything I'm missing?
Thanks!

Also,
I would like to add Mezel mods undercab light kit (basic non interactive kit) under Smaug Gold. Which color do you guys think would look better? Yellow or Red? .

https://mezelmods.com/collections/hobbit-pinball-mods/products/under-cabinet-lighting-kit-jjp?variant=35949545224

Thanks!

What does that prevent?

Is it this one?
http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/The-Hobbit-Parts/Wire-Ramp-Right-Hobbit-Chrome.html

Where did you get these?

Thank you for explaining that!
So far, I haven't had that happen. So I'll wait and see how it goes. But the left wire form has been causing the balls to jump the kick back post a lot! Too bad it's the most expensive one. Wish I could have caught it on sale.
Cheers!

That is what I have read on the web and here on Pinside somewhere. I submitted a support form to Jersey Jack last night about the kit and I'm waiting for a reply. I will post here when I get the info on it.

I assumed pacman11 was referring to the heavey duty drop target springs that JJ has released. I've already had the DWAR(F) drop target spring break and JJ advises to change them all out at once rather than going back in every time. Makes sense to me.

They're not heavy duty springs. Just longer.

Fix kits are still available for The Hobbit.
I asked if kits included the heavy duty springs for the drop targets, brackets for the beast doors (to prevent balls from getting caught), and a redesigned left wire form.
They said that I had the kit contents correct. I hope they didn't misread my question, because I am surprised they will replace the expensive left wire form. But that's what they said. I'll report back when I get it.

J.J responded today that they are shipping me this kit free of charge based on the serial number I sent them. My game born on date is (05-19-2016). Machines built after (07/15/2016) do not need the updates as they were installed at the factory.

Springs are not heavy duty, just longer. Also, J.J. doesn't send a new left wireform (habitrail), they send a post for the ball trap that exists at the bottom of left wireform.

Made it to 'Into the Fire' tonight and experienced flipper fatigue I believe. I didn't lift the playfield to feel the coils though. May have to look into the RC motor cooler fan thing.

Ya, I rely on it and get a drain too often. But my wife doesn't want me to remove it. She really loves this game.

Yes,
Machines built after (07/15/2016) do not need the updates as they were installed at the factory. Your build date should be on rear of cab. But Black Arrow was the latest model built.

Ya, I thought about that. But it would probably induce a current into the copper pipe. Not sure how that would affect the coil?
Any electrical engineers out there want to chime in?

My wife warmed them up for about a half hour before I started and I had a multiball going for quit a long spell. Flippers assemblies look new. This game has low plays. But I'll look closer.

Go up on J.J.'s website and fill out a service ticket form and include your serial number. They will send you the kit if you need it.

The drop target springs are another matter though. I wouldn't know by looking at them. But no big deal. The left ramp post fix is. Mine jumps the pop up post all the time.

New springs are longer.

Here is the upgrade kit J.J sent. They didn't send a new left wireform. Just the post (like konghusker said above). Kit includes said post, new drop target springs, brackets for the beast doors with screws, and instructions for installation.
DSCN0083 (resized).JPGDSCN0084 (resized).JPG
Remember that machines built after (07/15/2016) do not need this update kit as it was installed at the factory. Your build date should be on rear of cab. So Black Arrow doesn't need this kit.

Also got another switch error today.
Matrixed switch #15 Subway Entrance (stuck open)
Hole behind Smaug.

Sorry, I'm meant Left wireform. (Corrected above)
My ball is often flying over the pop up post that catches the ball before going down the left out lane?
Thanks

Thank you. I'll do this!
But why did J.J. update their left wireform to the new style? This must have been a common problem. Unless it's just because they know most people won't make these adjustment.

I keep saying ramp when I mean to say wireform or habitrail.

Thanks fnosm! I'll look into this as well.

The upgrade kit I just got doesn't explain where the left wireform post they included is supposed to go?

Thank you!

I removed the left wirefrom and used my Dremel with a grinding wheel to remove metal from all four cross braces from diverter location to bottom loop. I then polished it with Zam Buffing compound. The ball was hitting every cross brace! What a shit design for a habitrail! Now the ball doesn't hit any of them and so far, no ejects. I also installed the ball trap post that came with kit. I removed and replaced all the drop target springs as well. Very easy to do once you unplug and remove the drop target mechanisms from machine (easy to do). The new springs are longer than the originals by quite a bit. They must have been pulling too tight on the drop targets, thus breaking prematurely. The plastic edges that drop targets sit on all looked good.
Thanks to you excellent Pinsiders for your help!

It turned out to be the opto on the outside of the subway channel that popped off. I just snapped it back into place.

OK, I install one beast door plastic from upgrade kit and now my Spider gets caught on it. WTF! No idea what to do about this? My beast heads are sitting forward.

Nice that the F*cking instructions didn't tell me that?
Thanks. Now I have to tear it all out again and deal with those springs and trap door again! Yah!

No, I don't see any difference in them at all.

OK, so how do I adjust the beast to sit farther back?

So the whole mech? Have to epoxy and drill new holes? Starting to think this ain't worth the trouble.

Good idea. But I put it on hold for now. I'm not sure yet if it's worth the trouble. I'm certainly not going to reposition the mechs and start adjusting leaf switches. It works now. I'd rather enjoy the game before causing new problems. I do want to ask though, do the solenoids overheat if a ball gets trapped in the doors? Or does the software prevent this like it does with a failed EOS switch?
Thanks!

If you're talking about this post below... I can tell you that it will not solve my problem. I still had major clearance problem with the Spider and that ball stop. I will have to grind off material and somehow adjust the spider from leaning so far forward. Not sure how to do that other than moving entire mech backward. Maybe grinding down ball stop and face of Spider both. But not really interested in all this right now.

Thanks for the info!

The spider and all beasts do work correctly and register hits front and back.

You were right about the pitch! I increased it today from 6.7 to 6.93. Averaged four reads across playfield. Huge difference! Plays awesome now!!!
I also waxed playfield today. Maybe that helped. I tried increasing flipper power to 26L and 27R, but was getting air balls. Dialed it back to default and it's perfect. I am able to backhand both ramps and right hole so far. Also, cradling is way better on both flippers! No more floaty B.S.

OK,
I was already happy, but I'll give it a whirl. You guys are the Masters!

Here is another adjustment I made today!
DSCN0090 (resized).JPGDSCN0093 (resized).JPG

Thanks!
At some point I'll get to this when I get bored.

I can't find the spring steel ramp flaps for Hobbit. I would like to replace mine. They've curled up off of the playfield.

I read somewhere that they included a tool for that?
I guess I'll ask them..
Thanks!

Thanks again!
I will do that.

LOL!
I was just looking at them (Cliffy's) for that reason!
I always figured hole protectors were not necessary until they were worn. Why cover the rim when it looks good? But I do like to protect the shooter lane straight off.

I believe I will do it just for that reason!

Thanks so much for the heads up! Great advice!!

Installed Mezelmods gold trough lighting and gold back board lighting tonight! Beautiful!!!! I did cover the center 8 back board LED's with Gorilla tape and I didn't get the striping effect on ramps.

Next I will be installing their gold under cab lighting as well. I will post a pic when done for those interested.

I also raised the pitch to 7.2 averaged across upper, center and lower playfield and bumped up the flipper power as per 'pinballinreno's' advise.
Game plays awesome!!!!!!!!! This pin rocks now.. So much fun!!
Thanks for all the help everyone!

Here are some pics of the Lermods (purchased from Mezel Mods) lighting mods including the trough, back plate and yellow under cab basic lighting kit. The 8 center LED's are covered with Gorilla tape to deduce ramp striping. The LED stripes on ramps show up in pics a lot! But not to the eye nearly as much.
DSCN0094 (resized).JPGDSCN0095 (resized).JPGDSCN0096 (resized).JPGDSCN0105 (resized).JPGDSCN0108 (resized).JPG

I still haven't figured out how to do that yet??

Thanks for the video!!!
It would be a total rush to achieve this I'm sure!!!
I did set the game to 'Prevent Overlap with Multiball' already, so now I'm off to practice!

Ramp flaps and Cliffy's ordered.

- Any suggestions on what type of rubbers are best to install up there on upper playfield where hard to change? There are white ones there now. I want them to last.
- Also, did anyone try Super-Band post sleeves or Mini Post Rubbers. I already have green Super-Bands on flippers. I love how they never get dirty.

I'm not sure if I understand correctly?
Are the correct rivets for the tool/clincher included in this kit, or just the pop rivets? I do want to order the tool and do it correctly.
Thanks..

They do include both pop-rivets and the proper 1/8" tubular clinch rivets that you need to do it the right way.

Thanks!
But damn! Close to a hundred bucks for this thing!
Hope I use it more than once LOL!

Ditto!

I don't know how one could change out a spring without removing the mech? I tried and just ended up dropping spring down in machine several times and swore a bunch!
Removing the mechs is super simple to do. Just unplug the wires and unscrew mech from playfield. You will have to cut and later replace some 4" plastic cable ties (get a package at hardware store). Just make a mental note of where they were. Once the mech is out, you can change all the springs in a few minutes with no hassle. It's also a good time to inspect the plastic ledges that the drop targets rest on. If these are starting the crack apart, then you will know about it at least. Mine were all good.

How did you manage that?? I was all thumbs trying to reach up in there and hook the end of spring to drop target. I can't imagine how that would be easier than removing the mechs.

OK.
That explains it! I do not own hemostats. You would think after all these years I would have picked some up.
Ordering now!

https://www.amazon.com/SurgicalOnline-Straight-Hemostat-Firefighter-Taxidermy/dp/B01MZIYXS4/ref=sr_1_10

Is TABA more difficult than the other 3 wizard modes?

Which Hobbit do you have?
I had these on my Smaug Gold (link below). They are beautiful. But, the first set was destroyed by the playfield because it is just too tight and even though I have another set, I am reluctant to put them in. I did just install felt on the sides of playfield, but I will at least wait until I'm done installing the new ramp flaps and Cliffy's before I reinstall them.
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/hobbit-treasure-trove-gameblades

Thanks!
I've never seen those before. I will give them a try.
I own you a drink for all the help!

Man! You're better than I am!

No, I enjoy listening to other people experiences learning to play better. That what Pinside is for! I agree mixing it up on different pins is huge for improving skills. For instance, after I got my ACNC (tough game) my Start Trek scores soared. It's paramount to learn to control the ball better and shoot accurate on ACNC! Hopefully my Hobbit scores will also get better. I just haven't had much time since I got it to focus on playing it a lot.

Even watching the pro's on YouTube helps. You do pick up on things and become more conscience of what you are doing wrong.

I used the pinblade protectors today. They work great on all my machines! Highly recommend!!
Thanks for telling me about them!

https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

Why would it crater like that? Looks like it burned through any tracers around it.

Well I got around to installing the new ramp flaps and Cliffy's. And you guys were right! It was a PITA! I like how I had to remove the 5 bank drop target assembly so I could remove the VUK assembly so I could get at the post nut under playfield to install the Balin Cliffy. I followed the advice given to me here and the job went extremely well! The 1/8" diameter semi-tubular rivets would not seal tight up against a block of hard wood so I used the butt end of my bench vice. I used the HANSON HT-174 HAND RIVET CLINCHER. There was a little flattening of the rounded top of the rivet, but it looks fine. I replaced all rubbers and waxed as well. Only thing left to do now is install beast door ball stops. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H7RBSZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00
WIN_20200128_15_12_04_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200128_17_05_32_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200129_19_00_07_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200129_19_02_07_Pro (resized).jpg

On my ACNC all the servos are fused by one central fuse. It blows before the electronics crater. It my be a good idea to install an inline fuse for this.

This!!

No, I didn't put Mylar in shooter lane yet. I will do this when I do the beast door ball stops.

Ya, that's a good guide. I didn't get the inlane Cliff'y protectors.
But make sure you clean the wax off around the holes before installing the protectors. There is epoxy on them that needs to bond to the wood. Use Naphtha to remove the wax.

Apparently, my multiball game leaves much to be desired!

Spot light replacement bulbs..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W4KBN6V/

What is meant by 'mini' wizard mode??

OK, I thought they were just called Wizard modes LOL!

So by this logic I can assume that all pinball games that have more than one wizard mode really only have one 'Wizard' mode (being the most difficult to get to and accomplish), and all the other wizard modes are 'Mini Wizard' modes?
I ask because this has confused me in the past.
When I'm bored, I ponder such things!

Good idea! I'll do that too!

I just removed the drop target bank. It's easy. Just unplug it and cut a couple tie straps and remove the four screws. I hate dropping screws! Especially into the subway..LOL!

Machines built after (07/15/2016) do not need the updates as they were installed at the factory.

Mine has 3 washers on the topside under the ball.

What you are suggesting is plugging the pinball machine's headphone output into the guitar amps input. I don't see why you can't. But there is a big difference between a high fidelity stereo audio system and a live audio, mono guitar amp in terms of sound quality. This has to do with audio compression and signal balancing and you also get phase cancellation if a stereo signal is not properly converted to mono which further degrades the signal quality. You can try it, but you probably won't like it. Just add an external sub. Or connect it to a kick ass home stereo system.

I have been hearing this a lot on Pinside. These RGB lights are very prone to this connector loosening issue causing the single color. So this is the first check to make whenever this occurs...

Definitely a downgrade in art package and theme, but Dialed In is a great playing game.

I agree and I have Star Trek. ST makes it on flow and intense multi balls and the killer warp ramp shot! But Hobbit is in a whole higher class as for as depth and objectives and theme integration. I haven't played DI enough to be an authority on the subject, but if you like art, depth, theme integration, Hobbit is king.

It sounds so noobish when they announce number of plays! This is ubiquitous now. It is pointless because there is no way to prove this given that any code update erases the stats.

I payed $6700.00 for Smaug in Michigan with Radcals and plastic protectors and blades. I would have payed $6800.00. But it didn't have the updates either. And I see a lot of people asking $7,000.00 for a HUO Stern Prem, not a LE which would be more typically.

I should clarify that I think Smaug is definitely worth more than I payed with these mods when compared to Stern LE's. I just had a budget of $6800.00 to spend and got lucky. This pin is a master piece and I think it is ridiculous that it doesn't rate higher than it does. This makes no sense to me other than the fact that it is not a great location game because of the depth. This is also the case with my Alice Cooper. That game is under rated because of the tight shots, but it is super fun and addicting and beautiful. I think these modern high end pins are just too good for the wild now. Stern has the take on the location scene with their Pro's for sure!

LOL!!
Trying to read that display while playing is a challenge!

I would take the time to install an inline fuse on these Smaug servos while you're in there so this doesn't happen..

a066a41688b67c645b50b4708b6d20eab0f0c320 (resized).jpg

I'm not sure about these servo motors, but motors in general can have bad spots in the windings that can cause this to happen. If it stops on a bad spot, it will not start again until you move it off the bad spot. I have had flakey servos in the past when I was into R/C airplanes.

A an aside, I still have a lot of left over R/C parts and they have come in handy several times for pinball repair. Those small machine screws and nuts you can't find in hardware stores and other odd ball parts as well. It has saved my ass more than once.

I wish I could, but they may put us in trailers and work us 12 hr. shifts for 14 days straight and then quarantine us on location for the next two weeks while the next shift does the same. Two 2 man shifts back and fourth (only 4 of us out of 5 volunteered). Sounds bad, but they are willing to pay double time. Big money if it comes to that. We run a natural gas compressor plant. The spice must flow!
What pin to buy next with extra money? Provided great depression II doesn't start.

Damn!!

Play worse!

That whole rating system is prone to all sorts of problems.

Exactly why I have one!
Thank you haters.

Yup, it's near the top of my list as far as 90's pins.
But the translite has to go!
Aurich...Still the best!
I have his full kit on my ST pro. It's awesome!!
The-Shadow-B2S-1038x779 (resized).jpg

My vote is in..

Whirlwind beats Hobbit!
Now I've see it all.

This is true for a lot of games. But many of the guys hating, have large collections and should know better. But this is the Pinside psychopathology on display.

Right!
It's like comparing a Lamborghini Huracan to a Ford Fiesta!

Well, round four of the 'NOTHING MADE AFTER the 90's is WORTHY' bracket is up and running. LOL!!

Star wars is a great game! Best action button in pinball! And Hobbit goes great with my Stern ST and ACNC. I too like variety in my tiny collection. Goal is one more. Down between ATM LE or Met Premium.

I didn't start buying pinball machines until I was 50.

Holy cow!!!!!
You really got the bug!
You got some nice pins too!

So, my goblin pop up was sticking part way above the play field. I removed it and noticed that one of the little screws (8-32 x 3/8" hex head) was missing. There are two screws with a metal plate that hold the head to the mech. If one screw comes off, the head slants to one side which mine did (notice last picture). I could see wear on the ear where it was rubbing. The hardware store didn't carry these screws with the hex head, which you need because you have to reach inside with a small box wrench to tighten it. So I placed an order on Marco Specialties for a various assortment of these hex head screws. And no, I couldn't find the damn screw in the cab! But I did notice that there were pieces of plastic broken off around the bottom rear of the head. I looked on JJP's site and noticed two of the four beast heads are out of stock and they want $36.00 /ea for them!!!! I sent them an email asking if and when they are going to be restocking them. I don't need to replace mine yet, but I'm assuming they will need to be at some point.
WIN_20200421_10_54_35_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200421_10_55_19_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200421_10_58_55_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200421_11_00_07_Pro (resized).jpg

Yes. I will post their email response ASAP.
I wish I was good a carving. I would carve these heads out of solid hardwood of some type. Then paint and CC. $36.00/ea! They're still hollow and will just break again. I would try pinballinreno's moldable epoxy first before paying that price. Hell, maybe we should remove them all now and fill with epoxy before they break apart.

Ya, I considered that. So it looks like future Hobbits will get ping pong balls with faces drawn on or something like that. I assume JJP isn't planning on stocking them forever.

For 3D printing, someone has to do the cad design. That's technical and a lot of work AFAIK. And I can't do it. Someone in the modding community needs to provide a replacement for these because JJP is not going to do it for ever.

Ditto!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mine is bolted to floor. It's the only pin I ever considered to be. Wife agrees too.

Well, this is above my pay grade, but on my Sharkey's Shoot Out (Stern White Star System), the random resets were caused by dried out and cracked IDC connectors. I replaced several of the ones under the fluorescent light bulb (which dried them out) with Molex connectors and Trifurcon crimps. Problem solved. So check for bad IDC connectors (bad connections).