(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

8 years ago


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  • 12,997 posts
  • 745 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by LTG
  • Topic is favorited by 272 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (8 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by iepinball (8 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (8 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (8 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (7 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (7 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (7 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (7 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#10579 2 years ago

So happy to join the club today and booted up the game and have an issue with Smaug! Gah. It was shipped to me with everything working supposedly, but seems like the limits aren't kicking it so it will rotate to the end and then just bind up and get stuck then finally rotate the other way and do the same thing.

I checked all wires coming out from it none are noticeable broken, binded or unplugged. I even went through all the ones I could follow and unplug replug them in.

Anyone know what cord controls that? Should I take Smaug apart and see if it's something in there?

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#10582 2 years ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

I’d still guess it’s a connector issue…. My connector pin to the smaug head rotation optos had lost its springiness and caused a similar issue… in the switch test menu, I could manipulate the wire harness and hear it toggling back and forth as the connector pin made and broke contact… might try that first before tearing him apart…. It was easy to pull the pin out and bend it back to apply more contact pressure.
Good luck!

Seems like its the wires that go up through Smaug causing the issue as it's binding in there. How do I keep that braided hose in the same place? I've tried pushing most of it back up in there as seen in another post, but doesn't work or stay.

Works fine when the playfield is up, then when it's down it doesn't work probably because that wiring sags through the hole.

#10584 2 years ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

Sounds like you may need to do some strategic zip-tying… maybe see if you can get the whole bundle to sit a little closer to the playfield wood so it’s not pulling down on those two harnesses…? If no go there, you may need to pull him out and work on the slack inside his head. Good luck!

So pulled the wire harness through all the way as far as I could, tighten up some loose nuts that secured the mech to the playfield underneath still nothing. Only way it works is if the playfield is up. Once I put it down onto the cabient stops working and starts locking up. Is this a motor issue? Is it too tight on top of the playfield?

#10586 2 years ago
Quoted from kempsuk:

I have the exact same issue... playfield up, no problem. When the playfield is down, jitter/stutter. I've also held the harness up in my hand to ensure it's not just the weight of the harness (when the playfield is down), no help, still jitter/stutter . I can rotate Smaug by hand (with the Pin powered off), no issues at all, so I don't believe it's the weight of the harness causing the issue. I have a ticket in with JJP to see if they help. I will follow up here with any results.

I just took my Smaug apart and removed one of the wire harness braid coverings to see if that was adding too much drag and that didn't work. Def something around the weight of the mech it doesn't like, it does move more smoothly when I hold Smaug upside down and spin him. I guess I have to wait to play mine! Let me know that they say please.

Added a Video of my issue:

#10591 2 years ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

Thanks for the video. That helps. Your end of travel optos trigger normally when pf is up but don't trigger at all when the pf is down. I'd keep diagnosing those connectors... the one that hooks up to J100 specifically... So since the circuits and optos work normally when the playfield is up, I still think you've got a connection that's just not working properly when there's weight on the harness. You can unpin that connector by pushing in on the shiny silver bit on the side with a tiny screwdriver while gently tugging on the corresponding wire and then you can bend the contact a bit to encourage it to make better connection.
Also note that the 'grinding' noise when he rotates is normal - it's just the motor 'cogging'.
Good luck!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Ok I ended up getting it about 30 mins ago! Lol it was that metal rod that holds the motor in place. I ended up pulling it down and re-tightened it back in a good place. It was pushed down too much so the guide that goes inbetween the sensors wasn't making it past them.

On to the next issues:

1. Audio is getting some interference like fuzziness once in awhile. Guessing maybe a ground or something is off?

2. Some of the drop targets are grinding as the fire up. I think I read that's a pitch issue? About to level out the game soon.

Thanks for the current help and ongoing help I'm sure!

#10595 2 years ago
Quoted from kempsuk:

Good deal. Are you able to provide a little more detail on what you had to remove etc, to get to the metal rod? Maybe a few pictures. Thank you in advance.

You wanna PM and I can call ya? Prob be best so I can tell you exactly what I did.

#10597 2 years ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

I’m curious what “rod” you’re referring to as well hmmmm…

There is a metal rod the connects to the gears on the motor on the bottom and then slides into a metal bushing inbetween those circle plates. Forgive me I have no idea what some of these things are called.

They're 2 allen set screws that hold that rod in place, mine was loose and bouncing around. Thus why when it was upside down it worked, but when it was down on the playfield it sat too low and the metal bracket that's supposed to go inbetween the sensor was hitting it not allowing it to pass. I moved the rod down to a better spot so it cleared everything. Now it works and hopefully it stays in the position.

#10601 2 years ago

Been reading so my Wrag shouldn't pop up for 2 secs and go back in? Haha I thought it was just a harder quick shot.

I have to bend the leaf switch?

And just to confirm my MAN drop targets are supposed to make a loud grinding noise correct? Lol

#10603 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Adjust the shorter blade behind the character face.

Ok yeah it's registering it as a hit immediately so something much be getting hit on the way up. I'll see if it's his face, ha.

2 weeks later
#10638 2 years ago

Been loving my game so far so close to my first Wizard mode! Lol

Have a few more tweaks I need to do and could use some help.

Aftermarket ruby ring shooter rod was already installed on my machine, but is so weak I can barely even get any force on the ball. Do I need to adjust the rod at all? Is this normal of this shooter rod? If I was going to get a new spring what tension matches what this game should be at stock? I've seen some different kinds don't know exactly what one is for a JJP machine. Bally/Williams fit? High or low or medium tension?

I've seen these on PinballLife and Marco Specialties.

#10642 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

In installed a one ring shooter basically for a LOTR, and had a similar problem.
It was not the long tension spring, it was the lack of a shorter outer barrel spring that was supposed to come with the modded rod.
The ball has to rest on the tip of the plunger not the metal shooter gauge. Check to see if this is the case.
The hobbit has an intentionally weak spring on it.
A full plunge should hit the dwarf "A" target or slightly higher, weak as it is.
This is important if you are trying to get the left hole on the plunge to perhaps pickup the extra ball.
Blue or brown I think has the right tension. Not silver.
JJP barrel springs protrude slightly inside the ball handle, they are 7/8" or slightly longer to account for the spring going inside the ball handle.
Pull yours off and measure it.
the 3/4" available at pinball life is also slightly long. It should be slightly longer than 5/8"
I took a 3/4" barrel spring and crushed it in a vice until it was acceptably short enough.
Then bent the metal shooter gauge flap until the ball rested on the tip of the plunger instead of the shooter gauge metal.
Cutting the spring doesnt work.
Now it plays as it should with the factory tension spring on it.

Yep I was curious about that barrel spring also def is too long and keeps it away from the ball. I might try to get a smaller one first and go from there! Thanks for all the info!

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