(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

5 years ago

Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 10,902 posts
  • 663 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 minutes ago by Thot
  • Topic is favorited by 258 Pinsiders


Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

SmartSelect_20211016-213514_Gallery (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
D22B474C-FB1B-42CA-905A-A16C7E5B9A7D (resized).jpeg
RecessedDomeLitside1_1024x1024@2x (resized).jpg
20211013_203616 (resized).jpg
20211008_202142 (resized).jpg
20211008_163521 (resized).jpg
20211007_224748 (resized).jpg
20211007_224834 (resized).jpg
20211007_184430 (resized).jpg
20211007_184435 (resized).jpg
20211007_000242 (resized).jpg
20211006_232544 (resized).jpg
20211006_232416 (resized).jpg
D07DF187-9CDB-4C77-94F9-91A1FFD2EA2B (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #14 First impressions by new owner. Posted by Eryeal (5 years ago)

Post #45 The source of the voice call-outs Posted by Troz (5 years ago)

Post #71 Detailed game review Posted by Vyzer2 (5 years ago)

Post #128 Cosmetic issues from factory and customer service response. Posted by RichieWrench (5 years ago)

Post #214 review with detail and good set of pictures. Posted by Pimp77 (5 years ago)

Post #402 Backglass LED diffuser (tones cold white to a more neutral amber color) Posted by PanzerFreak (5 years ago)

Post #714 Another BackBox light filter Posted by Damonator (5 years ago)

Post #769 Rulesheet Posted by tiesmasc (5 years ago)

Post #1064 Owner fixes and tweaks after 150 games. Posted by pinballinreno (5 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Boatshoe.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#4036 3 years ago

How do I get the extra ball in the "complete all qualifiers"? I keep trying to start the roaming drop target to light extra ball, but it never happens. Do I need to get all the qualifiers on 1 ball? Maybe that's my issue? Is there a setting I have wrong?


#4043 3 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

I don't thin it needs to be all on the first ball. Are all of the modes lit up? If so might be a setting adjustment

I just qualified all the modes on ball 1. No roaming drop. No multiballs. When I launch the ball one of the qualifiers is spotted for me. I think that might be the issue, but I don't know the setting.

#4045 3 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

This rule is a bit old (done by Scott T). Search for Hobbit rules for the complete and updated version...quite good and extensive:
There are three primary methods of lighting an extra ball. They may be completed in any order and are:
• Award after 25 Captive Ball Hits
• Completing all 6 mode qualifiers (Gandalf, Bilbo, Radagast, Elf, Dwarf, Man) and then
hitting the travelling drop target before it is gone

I got the roaming drop to appear by changing the preset difficulty to "hard". No qualifiers were spotted when I launched a ball. Is "hard" the default mode from the factory?

Mine was on medium, and the extra ball from 6 mode qualifiers did not seem to work, possibly because the game was handing a free qualifier per ball.

#4050 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Yes, the free qualifiers don’t count and you have to consume and re-earn them to get it.

Explains it all. Thanks!!

2 weeks later
#4108 3 years ago

Hi, I was enjoying my relatively new Hobbit until the Orc target stopped registering hits. I'm seeking advice on how to handle the repair.

1) The orc beast mech is in a *very* tight spot. I ordered a long nut driver because I was having issues removing the mech. Is it recommended to remove the wires around the mech? I do not want to break anything else. The Warg and Spider look much easier to remove.

2) From what I can tell, the wire for the target may have ripped out of the connector plug. If this is true, is there a specific pin or part I need to get the wire back into the plug? Is it just a molex pin?

3) Is there a specific fix to keep the target wires from getting pinched, or ripped apart in the future?

Thanks all!

#4115 3 years ago

Thanks, It is definitely a wire. I can see it. I read something about using a washer to help prevent cuts but no details were given.

Already almost lost a screw. Thank goodness for magnets!

#4124 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Maybe the picture will help.
LTG : )

Thanks for the picture LTG!

Looks like my wire was not clipped though, but fried. Maybe both happened and caused a short? Is that the most likely scenario here?

It is just the target connection, not a coil.


toast (resized).JPG

#4129 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Just target.
Coil is a different connector.
LTG : )

Yes, I am just trying to figure out why it burnt up.

1 month later
#4242 3 years ago

Don't forget that if Smaug and Beast are going at the same time, focus on the beasts. When you hear "Super Jackpot" slap the ring button and it will end Beast Multiball.

3 months later
#4662 3 years ago

I am just crossing my fingers the TABA wizard mode is for playing 31 modes and not *beating* 31 modes. That just means I will never see it!

1 month later
#4776 3 years ago

I don't think anything happens. You would start Into the fire again. The wizard mode that we may see in the future is allegedly for progressing through all 31 modes in the game.

#4795 3 years ago
Quoted from Sunfox:

Talking to myself here... removed Smaug again, and unscrewed the 2 screws holding the back/top of his head from the front/bottom of the assembly.

You really *are* talking to yourself! The good news is you are smart enough to fix the game on your own. The wires on this game have almost no leeway. They are way too tight. I'm glad you sorted out the issues. Thank You for providing this info for the rest of us. I occasionally have Smaug issues, but nothing consistent.

2 weeks later
#4828 3 years ago

Sweet! : )

#4902 3 years ago

Qualifiers are the shots, B-Bilbo, BD, Bilbo and Dwarf, DEG, Dwarf Elf Gandalf

#4910 3 years ago
Quoted from Budman:

2. We all have basic playing skills.... AFMr high score of 7.5 bill.

That is not "basic!" That is advanced! : )

Having said that, take out the outlane posts, the center drain post, and set it up steep and I don't think you will have an "hour long" issue. Still you should find a place to play it and see for yourself if you like it. It is a slightly slower game where you make you need to make your shots. AFM has an obvious easy bash toy to hit.

3 weeks later
#5152 3 years ago
Quoted from Yfichelle:

ust a simple question : when i do the 6 modes qualifiers, sometimes i have extraball, sometimes not... i dont understand why ? Someone can explain ?

If you do the 6 qualifiers, a blue lit drop will roam across the playfield. If you shoot it you will qualify extra ball.

If your qualifier is "spotted" for you at the beginning of the ball, then it doesn't count towards the extra ball. You will have to do the mode for that qualifier and then requalify it.

I have my mode settings on hard, so that a qualifier is never spotted, and thus qualifying all modes always starts the roaming drop.

#5158 3 years ago

I'm not 100% sure either, but I thought the real issue was that on "normal" settings, the qualifiers are auto spotted, and that means that you haven't done it yourself. Set the mode start to hardest, then do the 6 qualifiers and I think it will work.

Each time you lose a ball on normal settings you get a new qualifier spotted and that just makes getting the "qualifier extra ball" harder.

#5160 3 years ago

When I say spotted, I mean that when you start your game, one is already done for you. You need to clear it and reshoot that one.

10 months later
#7028 2 years ago

Recently bought back in with an LE Hobbit, but it didn't have any of the factory fixes done. Does anyone know, or have a link to the best way to do the Beast insert install? I remember a post about doing it without having to remove the entire mech, but I can't find it. If I have to remove them thats fine, but the easier the better!

Does anyone have the washer size they used on the Beasts to make sure the wires don't get cut?


#7031 2 years ago
Quoted from TrueJedi:

I'm looking at possibly buying a Hobbit Smaug. Is there a more detailed explanation on things to look for/change? I see you've mentioned "beast mod". Is that a change or improvement and if so what's involved? TY

Ramp flaps were changed from Stainless steel to blue steel (stainless was curling up)

Beasts would trap balls, and so white plastic inserts were created to prevent that. They should be visible directly in front of every beast.

Left wireform had ball trap issues and was changed during production. You can buy a new wireform, but they also issued a post to replace a screw which solved the issue for some people.

Stronger springs were sent out for the drop targets as some of the springs apparently broke in early models.

#7032 2 years ago

Oh and some new mylar was sent out to put around the beasts.

#7038 2 years ago

No I have that. I was just responding to Truejedi about all the fixes. My Beasts do not have mylar behind them. I have the mylar kit and will put some down soon.

Still looking for a washer size to prevent beasts cutting wires if anyone knows it!

#7051 2 years ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Had a nice 56 minute game tonight...


#7064 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

How do you use washers to protect the wires . I have to fix my beast mec , first I've heard of this solution , any pictures would be good

Taken from other parts of this thread.

pasted_image (resized).png
#7068 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Does a part of the wire get held under the washer to hold it way from the moving Beast mech ? It's hard to tell what's going on from that picture .

See post 1930 Also has washer size. #8 3/4 washer.


The washer stops the beast mech from going up all the way (by just a little bit) because the beast has a habit of cutting the wires as it goes up. The washer stops the beast and so gives the wire a little bit of space.

#7074 2 years ago

Anyone ever have their beast mechs squeak or squeal?

My spider "screams" as it goes up. I can't quite figure out what the issue is. I think the metal Spider pop up housing might be rubbing against the metal case attached to the bottom of the PF. Not sure how I can adjust that housing 1 millimeter to the left.

#7077 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Yes. Spent a lot of time but could never get it corrected.

Can't say we had the same problem, but the spider was totally hitting the housing. Black metal left a line on the steel. I took huge pliers and bent the housing away from the spider. Seemed to solve the issue 95% of the time. The downside is that the bracket no longer lines up with the playfield hole for the screw...

#7095 2 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I think mine makes some noise but i've always thought they were just the normal beast mechs going up and down.

Possibly use some sticky ptfe teflon sheet (liekthe stuff on the bottom of your computer mouse) to make it glive inside the mech itself?

I just finished putting the game back together after doing all the upgrades. Unfortunately my spider fix didn't work. I'll have to do it again. All the beasts make noise going up and down, especially with the glass off, but my spider makes an especially annoying shriek. I used to have the hobbit, so I know this is not normal.

My smaug magnet is not catching the ball either. I hope that can be adjusted. It activates in test mode.

#7104 2 years ago

Haha, This post makes me feel like I got really lucky putting everything back together. No drops. From the pictures I put it back together mostly right! : ) The hard part for me was getting the optos BACK IN. Look out.

#7114 2 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

I figured snapping them back in would be the easy part. Any good tricks for getting them back in?

Not really. You can see when you do it that the male portion of the plug is slightly wider than the hole its supposed to go in. If its to wide and you try to force it you are just bending the pieces apart which is no good. I tried to press them together as much as I could.

My only thoughts were that before you put the ramp back on get as much slack as you can in the opto wires. My left ramp entrance opto had no slack and I wasn't about to pull the ramp up again (it was already firmly in place) to see if I had a wire stuck.

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Boatshoe.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside