The Hobbit
Jersey Jack, 2016Quoted from pinballinreno:I would like to see a varying amount of balls in the multiballs, 2 ball for a mode, 3 for another, add-a-ball for another, 5 ball for a main one with add-a-ball etc.
This would break up the non-stop mutliball heaviness on this game.
Also add some surprises and more humor to the code PLEASE!
Please post this on the JJP WOZ forum. A better chance for your ideas to be seen and considered.
LTG : )
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Agree as well. I think an "easy" way to solve this would be to require 3 modes to be completed for each wizard mode as one of the 5 required Arkenstone mode qualifiers. For example for Into the Fire require 3 Man modes to be completed, Barrel Escape 3 Elf modes, and for Battle of the Five Armies 3 Dwarf modes.
Something such as above would allow players to go after a particular Arkenstone mode as well make it worthwhile to complete more then just 1 mode. Having this at least as an option in the games menu would be nice.
This is an idea. I think giving players more options to go several different ways into the game would help. Maybe a defined way to Kill Smaug. Also rewards for getting sequences of modes.
I have removed the center post and set up beast multi ball to extra hard has helped shorten average to poor games. Code should help the multi ball frenzy people complain about. Maybe the first Smaug multi ball is 3 balls and each successive Smaug multi ball has one additional ball
"A defined way to kill Smaug"? There is one. There are like 6 stages to do it, each progressively more difficult. I love seeing the red lights appear knowing I'm one stage away from the kill shot.
And complete 3 modes plus Erobor plus Smaug plus Beast plus collect all elves seems a bit too much. I'd never get to Five Armies if that were the case. As it is I've only been to Five Armies 3 times and once was when I had it on 5 ball settings.
Some of you guys need to remember that pinball games need to appeal to every level of player, the novice, the mid level, and the expert.
Quoted from Crile1:"A defined way to kill Smaug"? There is one. There are like 6 stages to do it, each progressively more difficult. I love seeing the red lights appear knowing I'm one stage away from the kill shot.
Some of you guys need to remember that pinball games need to appeal to every level of player, the novice, the mid level, and the expert.
Ditto, audits show 1150+ games and average game lasts slightly over 4 minutes and I play 90-95% of the time. Last time I got to 5 armies was generous EB's and two codes ago.
Quoted from Audioenslaved:Just wondering why the radagast lights are only lit when they’re lit for jackpots or to start an arkenstone mode
It’s not lit for just that. It’s lit when you need to hit that shot (modes, multiballs, Arkenstone modes, etc...).
Quoted from Pimp77:It’s not lit for just that. It’s lit when you need to hit that shot (modes, multiballs, Arkenstone modes, etc...).
But it’s not like the other scoop that’s lit straight away and the loops too. Is more what I’m getting at. I would’ve thought it was lit (purple from memory to denote non collection) at the start of the game to know your progress
Quoted from Audioenslaved:But it’s not like the other scoop that’s lit straight away and the loops too. Is more what I’m getting at. I would’ve thought it was lit (purple from memory to denote non collection) at the start of the game to know your progress
Right. The purple lights are for Dwarfs only so you know what’s left for feast frenzy. Check the screen for status on Radagast mode qualification. If Radagast is lit up you’ve collected it!
Quoted from Pimp77:Right. The purple lights are for Dwarfs only so you know what’s left for feast frenzy. Check the screen for status on Radagast mode qualification. If Radagast is lit up you’ve collected it!
Isn’t he dwarf too?
Quoted from Audioenslaved:Isn’t he dwarf too?
No he is not. He’s a wizard like Gandalf.
Quoted from NightTrain:No he is not. He’s a wizard like Gandalf.
a wizard with seagull droppings on his hat from his last beach excursion !
Got to barrel escape and completed into the fire tonight (not sure if I completed into the fire in the game I got to barrel escape). I’m enjoying the game more than when I first played it which is good (and my aim of buying the game actually). I still stand by my initial thinking though. It’s a broad game not a deep game. It’d be great to watch someone play with all the animations going on on the screen. BUT I find it a little bit of pain that I’ve got to trap up read the screen and then start shooting again. There’s just too much information for me. But I’m enjoying it. I don’t think it’ll last too long though. I’m hoping at least until the next code update though...
Oh I forgot to say into the fire is a cool mode to get to. And the start is pretty freaking awesome! Barrel escape doesn’t quite have that cool a feel of getting to as into the fire. Will have to see what it’s like getting to battle of five armies
I have a question on how to score big. Ive made it to into the fire and barrell escape.
Before you get into those modes should you be doing anything for preperation. ? Like is there a way to have multipliers running before entering. Finishing more modes maybe. ? I believe the one time i got to barrel escape i played in the mode for quite sometime and only got around 150k out of it. Was kind of dissappointed after almost being out of breath playing through it.
Didnt even know you can finish/beat the wizard modes. More to shoot for when i get there again.
Quoted from Crile1:Some of you guys need to remember that pinball games need to appeal to every level of player, the novice, the mid level, and the expert.
I agree. Tournament type players and pinball "traditional purists" seem to have opinions that it's not a big challenge or that they don't like it. It has been a popular JJP seller. My wife and I are mediocre players and think all of the JJP pins are fantastic. We (generally all pinball geeks) always want more ways to have fun with our pinball machines to freshen up the excitement/entertainment/experience ... and JJP listens, and sometimes adjusts based on what pinsiders say/ask. There are several ways to make the game harder through settings, removing the center post, opening up the side posts, etc just as JJP has advised to those that think it is too easy. For Hobbit and those that think it is too easy, why do you seem to choose the easiest book modes to play? Take the one that is given to you. Maybe JJP should have that as a setting to turn off that ability to change the book modes with the flippers for those that want a more difficult game.
Just for the record, I do like a few of the Stern pins too that also have that "fun factor". But won't slam them or compliment(?) them here. Most of the designers and coders don't read pinside anyway (so some of them have claimed at shows/expos).
Just unboxed a Dialed in, set up next to my Woz.Have a chance to pick up Smaug LE ? Will I like this game ? I really like my JJP pins
Quoted from whitey:Just unboxed a Dialed in, set up next to my Woz.Have a chance to pick up Smaug LE ? Will I like this game ? I really like my JJP pins
They are all very different games The Hobbit is a world of its own.
Quoted from estrader:How do I know if a machine I'm wanting to purchase has the 2.0 boards and what is the difference between 2.0 and the prior version. Thanks in advance for any info.
You don't have to worry about this on The Hobbit...they all have the same boards. Only have to worry about WOZ.
I keep having issues with the right spinner not registering. Rebooting sometimes fixes it, and sometimes it starts working mid game. I've reseated wires and adjusted the spinner itself. Any ideas? Thanks
Quoted from konghusker:I keep having issues with the right spinner not registering. Rebooting sometimes fixes it, and sometimes it starts working mid game. I've reseated wires and adjusted the spinner itself. Any ideas? Thanks
The switch might have to be replaced sometimes the switches are just weak or inconsistent.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The switch might have to be replaced sometimes the switches are just weak or inconsistent.
Ok. I was originally thinking maybe a code glitch, but I'm sure you're right if it's not common with others. Thanks
Ok couple of issues.
I recently removed the PF protector that came with the game when i bought it. ps: man was that a meticulous and PITA job. especially when trying your best to not scratch the PF itself. But what a difference that made on how the game looks now. Very pretty and shiny!
However one issue was happening before i performed this. My goblin is popping up but going right back down. Assuming theres a leaf switch i need to adjust. ?
2nd issue is the rollovers. They seem to be affecting the ball a lot more now. Almost like they are sticky. Ive gotten a ton of airballs off them if i hit one dead on from the flipper.
I would probably put some iso on a rag or paper towel and give the rollovers a good rub down, I don't get airballs off my rollovers.
Quoted from bgwilly31:sorry for my newbish but what do you mean by iso?
I think he means rubbing alcohol
Quoted from bgwilly31:Assuming theres a leaf switch i need to adjust. ?
The character face is on a long leaf blade and a short one behind it. It's either stuck closed or so close vibration closes it going up. It needs adjusting.
I've attached a picture of a troll face from MM, same principle, you can see the leaf blade switch with arrows pointing to it.
LTG : )
Quoted from bgwilly31:Ok couple of issues.
I recently removed the PF protector that came with the game when i bought it. ps: man was that a meticulous and PITA job. especially when trying your best to not scratch the PF itself. But what a difference that made on how the game look now. Very pretty and shiny!
However one issue was happening before i performed this. My goblin is popping up but going right back down. Assuming theres a leaf switch i need to adjust. ?
2nd issue is the rollovers. They seem to be affecting the ball a lot more now. Almost like they are sticky. Ive gotten a ton of airballs off them if i hit one dead on from the flipper.
I had this issue with my rollovers so I adjusted them so they were lower to play field (close to even with play field)and that helped with the air ball issue. To adjust them you have to do it from under the play field, not easy to do just take your time and make sure they still register when the balls roll over them.
Quoted from Wildbill327:I had this issue with my rollovers so I adjusted them so they were lower to play field (close to even with play field)and that helped with the air ball issue. To adjust them you have to do it from under the play field, not easy to do just take your time and make sure they still register when the balls roll over them.
Yeah I actually just lifted the playfield and they are pretty damn tight space to get to. Did you just adjust the leave switch on the rollovers further back. ? That's the only way I could see that they adjusted. What tool do you all use to adjust leaf switches btw. ?
Quoted from bgwilly31:Yeah I actually just lifted the playfield and they are pretty damn tight space to get to. Did you just adjust the leave switch on the rollovers further back. ? That's the only way I could see that they adjusted. What tool do you all use to adjust leaf switches btw. ?
You can use a leaf spring tool sold by Marco or try your luck with needle nose pliers and long standard screwdriver. I have the proper tool now but I adjusted my game with the latter of the two.
Quoted from Rondogg:Would something like this work to dim the leds in the backbox?
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/mtxbriteadj.htm
Trust me when I say I Love everything Comet but this dimmer is Less than useful. The adjustment screw breaks with just a fowl look lol. You can get one of these simple 12-24v dimmers on Amazon for about $6. Much better solution. Good Luck.
So a thread on JJP's Google Group about Hobbit code update concerns has been locked, this is the first locked thread I've ever seen on the JJP Google Group. It didn't seem like anyone was being insulting and that 99% of posts in it were providing constructive criticism. A lot of posts thanked JJP before providing any feedback. Just very surprised to see it locked.
It's likely JJP locked the thread as they have replied multiple times in it saying that code for the game is not forgotten and that it won't receive a lot of time on its code until after POTC is released. Still, it always felt like a thread where owners could discuss code ideas together which was nice.
Quoted from PanzerFreak:So a thread on JJP's Google Group about Hobbit code update concerns has been locked, this is the first locked thread I've ever seen on the JJP Google Group. It didn't seem like anyone was being insulting and that 99% of posts in it were providing constructive criticism. A lot of posts thanked JJP before providing any feedback. Just very surprised to see it locked.
It's likely JJP locked the thread as they have replied multiple times in it saying that code for the game is not forgotten and that it won't receive a lot of time on its code until after POTC is released. Still, it always felt like a thread where owners could discuss code ideas together which was nice.
link?
Quoted from Rondogg:link?
Have to have access of the Google Group to see it. I'm sure JJP was just tired of reading some of the same comments after they said that the code is not forgotten and that more is coming. Now they need to deliver. Still, I personally think the thread should have remained opened.
Quoted from Rondogg:Hello? What is the name of the forum?
It's just called Jersey Jack Pinball. Login to Google groups and click on my groups. If you don't see it then you don't have access.
Quoted from Rondogg:Hello? What is the name of the forum?
Email jjp and ask to be provided access to the owners group.
Hello people, i get a smaug edition, I love te game, but i dont like to stack multiballs and modes, i thought installing the crític cut preset Will solve this, but nothing changes, someone test the crític cut preset?? Thanks
Quoted from Cusanus:Hello people, i get a smaug edition, I love te game, but i dont like to stack multiballs and modes, i thought installing the crític cut preset Will solve this, but nothing changes, someone test the crític cut preset?? Thanks
It doesn't eliminate it, and there's nothing you can do to eliminate it (for now). You can make the multiball modes harder to start, like beast, by upping the difficulty in the settings.
Ok - I have an idea that I would like to share. Many feel that The Hobbit has a bit too many multiballs. So here is my suggestion around the mode locks.
I think you can continue to lock the balls (up to 3) for mode locks - BUT in order to qualify the multiball you have to collect all the dwarves at the race (Dwarf, Elf or Man) BEFORE the mode you start.
For example, if you start a mode that requires DWARF to unlock it you must have collected the 4 dwarfs those drops protect. If you have you will get the multiball on mode start - if not you lose those locks and the mode will not add any balls. You would need the 3 at the ELF and 3 and the MAN to get multiballs on those modes.
You can also use color to tie it together (around the dwarfs and mode hex icon). So the dwarves in the bottom left corner would have - let's say - RED lines around the group of dwarves that correspond to the DWARF drops, blue for ELF and green for MAN.
The idea would allow you to both get fewer mutiballs on modes - and allow a fun element of unlocking the multiball to make it more satisfying that just hitting the right ramp to start a mode. And thanks to the book turning feature - you would be wise to start a mode that you have qualified the mode locks for, instead of a mode that you have not.
What about the Gandalf, Bilbo, or Radagast only modes? Then you won't need to collect dwarves for those, and it will use the mode lock as it is now. Also, to make it harder - you can require the player to collect the dwarf first (purple light), and the hit it again (yellow) light to lock it, much like the beast mechs turn yellow to meet the beast mode multiball.
I really dont like the backglass lighting. It's way too strong and blows out the shading and fine lines in the artwork. So I took Yelobirds advice and switched in a dimmer.
I used velcro and lengthened the wires. Will probably use screws which seems like a more elegant and permanent solution.
Quoted from Rondogg:I really dont like the backglass lighting. It's way too strong and blows out the shading and fine lines in the artwork. So I took Yelobirds advice and switched in a dimmer.
I used velcro and lengthened the wires. Will probably use screws which seems like a more elegant and permanent solution.
Turned out great! Nice job and thanks for sharing how you did it!
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