Ty sir
Mine spins off the right wireform all the time too and onto the playfield. Thanks for the thorough instructions. Gonna try it again – but it's so scary! Feels like I'm going to snap the dang thing in half.
Quoted from lschmidlin:Mind spins off the right wireform all the time too and onto the playfield. Thanks for the thorough instructions. Gonna try it again – but it's so scary! Feels like I'm going to snap the dang thing in half.
Yep, I know what you mean - just go slow and dont scratch anything!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:just go slow and dont scratch anything!
Yeah no kidding. Mine only required approximately 1mm of lift. You don't really need a lot of bending to fix this issue. Well, in my case.
What an odd design flaw though eh?
I was thinking that wrapping a small piece of something rubber-like on the metal may also soak spinning energy out of the equation...
Quoted from Bendit:Yeah no kidding. Mine only required approximately 1mm of lift. You don't really need a lot of bending to fix this issue. Well, in my case.
What an odd design flaw though eh?
I was thinking that wrapping a small piece of something rubber-like on the metal may also soak spinning energy out of the equation...
Mine Seemed like it needed a lot more than that - but I bet Its still only 2 or 3mm. Sometimes if I hit a perfect shot onto the right ramp it will still spin out, but far far less than before. I'm sure a rubber would help but it wouldn't look as cool!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I'm sure a rubber would help but it wouldn't look as cool!
Maybe if the visible part of said rubber faces the back of the machine? I think that would permanently fix this issue.
But yeah, I'm with you.
Dwarf drop target(s) pops up and kicks the ball up, smashing the spotlight (above these targets) and bending its bracket.
Anybody else?
Quoted from Bendit:Dwarf drop target(s) pops up and kicks the ball up, smashing the spotlight (above these targets) and bending its bracket.
Anybody else?
Elf Targets ... ball smacks the glass REAL hard.
Quoted from Bendit:Anybody else?
Yes. The ball sits on the dropped E target and I stand there cringing because I know it's about to find it during the ball search and smack the glass. Not sure if I can raise the dropped targets up just a millimeter or so.
Quoted from lschmidlin:Not sure if I can raise the dropped targets up just a millimeter or so.
You mean like the white nylon screw at the bottom of each target position just for this ? Loosen nut, raise or lower with screw. Retighten the nut.
LTG : )
So you're saying I should've looked before I posted? Ha ha. Thanks Lloyd. Good to know exactky what to look for when I get tired of cringing and actually lift the playfield!
Quoted from LTG:You mean like the white nylon screw at the bottom of each target position just for this ? Loosen nut, raise or lower with screw. Retighten the nut.
LTG : )
I made this adjustment a while ago and the ball does not get stuck on the E anymore. Definitely do that. Mine pops the glass a few ways ... mostly during multiballs or during the modes that pop the targets up and down.
Quoted from TouchingEvil:One question, in this video right at the start is a melody that is so so good, is it in the game ?
» YouTube video
I suspect you'll hear that one in SR's Elvis game
Quoted from KingBW:Definitely do that.
Do what? In my case, the ball was not stuck. The ball was just at the wrong place, at the wrong time.
Know what I mean?
Quoted from TouchingEvil:One question, in this video right at the start is a melody that is so so good, is it in the game ?
» YouTube video
The tune in question is "Misty Mountain Cold". It would have been nice to include it in the game, but the licensing morass involved with it prevented its inclusion.
Although the tune is commonly (mis)credited to Howard Shore, it was written by David Long (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Long_(New_Zealand_musician)) in conjunction with Plan 9 (https://www.plan9.co.nz/).
Quoted from Bendit:Do what? In my case, the ball was not stuck. The ball was just at the wrong place, at the wrong time.
Know what I mean?
Yes I do. Happens occasionally now for me. Before it would get stuck often on the "E" and followed what LTG said to adjust that row of targets. It happens on the dwarf targets rarely for me, but usually that is during a mode that pops the targets up and down.
Hey LTG! My Smaug mouth has very little up and down motion. He talks, but the moths only moves a tiny bit. I have had it in and out several times to adjust as the factory suggests, but nothing works. Any ideas? Thanks!
Quoted from sbmania:Any ideas?
Not much there. Binding or motor issue.
Did you open a ticket on it ?
LTG : )
Quoted from sbmania:Hey LTG! My Smaug mouth has very little up and down motion. He talks, but the moths only moves a tiny bit. I have had it in and out several times to adjust as the factory suggests, but nothing works. Any ideas? Thanks!
Did you try the adjustments in the service menu ? You can put values for up and down there.
Quoted from ronaldvg:Did you try the adjustments in the service menu ? You can put values for up and down there.
That is a good way to test - and observe behavior. It may be the motor is shot.
Quoted from thewool:Stupid question coming up... Can the GI bulbs be swapped out or are they on boards. Manual suggests they are on boards and I'm away from home so can't check my game.
They are on boards. One board per led to be precise.
Quoted from ronaldvg:They are on boards. One board per led to be precise.
Thanks for that, no chance of changing them out then, nevermind.
Quoted from thewool:no chance of changing them out then
I'm curious. What changes would you make?
Quoted from Bendit:I'm curious. What changes would you make?
I'm not a fan of cold whites for GI so wanted to try warm whites, thought it might also suit the playfield colours better. No bother though.
Quoted from thewool:I'm not a fan of cold whites for GI so wanted to try warm whites, thought it might also suit the playfield colours better. No bother though.
You could just put some orange foil over the leds on the board. They are very flat. I did that myself in the backbox and it makes the colours of the backglass much better.
Quoted from thewool:I'm not a fan of cold whites for GI so wanted to try warm whites, thought it might also suit the playfield colours better. No bother though.
put white bulb condoms on.
Hey guys, my Orc just stopped registering hits? Without taking the beast out how much can I diagnose? What I can see so far is no loose solder connections or sheared wires. The leaf switch itself looks perfect, and should be working. The coil that raises the beast is operating properly and the switch at the inlane works to pop the beast up.
Quoted from Indusguys:how much can I diagnose?
Tests - Switches - Matrixed, push it up, hit the character face - does it work then ?
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Tests - Switches - Matrixed, push it up, hit the character face - does it work then ?
LTG : )
Nope, it does not register/work.
Quoted from Indusguys:Nope, it does not register/work.
Check wires from leaf blade character switch to connector below the assembly. Probably a broken wire.
LTG : )
Quoted from Indusguys:I can't see anything obvious, will this job require the removal of the orc pop up?
Removal not the end of the world. 5 screws and 2 or 3 connectors. And remove the top flap, 2 clips two springs.
First I'd unplug the connector for the character switch, put a meter on the connector, and push the face. Then you'd know the problem lies from the connector up to the face leaf blade.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:First I'd unplug the connector for the character switch, put a meter on the connector, and push the face.
With the game OFF, right?
Yep game is off, I am about to get to work! Not too sure how to put a meter on the connector, but I will see if any wires need attention.
Quoted from Indusguys:Yep game is off, I am about to get to work! Not too sure how to put a meter on the connector, but I will see if any wires need attention.
Once you get the assembly off you may find a wire my be cut or frayed. The biggest pain is removing the top (trap door metal) of the mech (so be careful not to lose a spring - there are two - one on each side). Removing from the PF after that is a breeze.
Hello, it seems that a new code will come out for the DI (code 1.50). By cons, still nothing for the hobbit !!!!!
Every DI production model shipped thus far has done so with 1.13 installed. This is DI’s first production code update. Hobbit has had many since production began in early 2016, including 2.0 which is the most recent one. There will be another by all accounts as well so I’m not especially worried.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Every DI production model shipped thus far has done so with 1.13 installed. This is DI’s first production code update. Hobbit has had many since production began in early 2016, including 2.0 which is the most recent one. There will be another by all accounts as well so I’m not especially worried.
Me, that worries me.
Jjp will release his fourth model (potc) but his second model is not finished (hobbit).
I hope they will not do like stern!
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/80 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.