Thank you sir, but the spinner is registering now? I didn't do anything. If it starts acting up again I will try your suggested actions.

Anyone else get lots of computer noise through their speakers as it is booting up and a constant static hum? Any way to eliminate this?

Also curious.

Open the game up and look for a magnetic isolator; it looks like a black cube clamped around the speaker wire. If you can't find one, get one The game should have come with one but they can fall off.

If that doesn't help order a ground loop eliminator (RCA cable style) from amazon and plug it into the back of the computer where the speaker plug in, then plug the speakers into that

Will this work?

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Yep that's one of the pieces I was talking about; it's worth a try but there's no guarantee it will do it perfect. The sound you are hearing is because some wire in the speaker chain is no insulated well enough (same
Wire on all games) and your wire must be too close to the computer

See if you have that other magnetic clamp cube I mentioned in the cabinet

Has anyone had problems with Smaug? Mine lights up and the mouth moves, but it stopped turning completely

Sometimes you have to remove him and check the servo motor, they can burn out.

I figured...bad fuse..F714 to be specific....

Just wanted to pop in and tell you guys that this pin is fantastic! I finally got to play it when traveling for work by Grand Rapids MI, there was a place called Pyramid Scheme there that had it. The only bummer was that the ruleset was modified to not allow any extra balls to be collected, so 3 balls only every game. On my 4th and last game I put this score up, completed Into the Fire, just wish I could've had the extra balls I would've earned to see how much farther I could've gotten.
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You can really stack extra balls on this pin. Unless someone messed with ours, I believe the settings are all factory. Unfortunately for me, my brother and father have set the bar high and I can't touch a high score on ours with less than 1.4.... I own Oz though

Yeah I collected two or three on the game but it didn't give me any. I felt pretty good about scoring that with three balls only though haha!

For sure!

I'm hoping that another code update will be dropped around or at Expo. The "There and Back Again" folder in the 2.0 update folder structure did not exist in the previous code updates, including beta's, so I hope that is tied to the games rumored super wizard mode.

Ground loop isolator came in. Completely eliminated the annoying noise from the computer and the whine through the speakers. Thanks for the info!

hi everyone, just picked up my hobbit. the only issue am having is i have to press the start button really hard for the game to start. does anyone else have that problem, what can it be??. thanks in advance

Make sure the playfield hasn't landed on the start button switch and pulled it back out of the button housing a bit - lean in and look left and see if the switch needs to be snapped back into place.

yay! Glad to hear it!

Yup, just push on it a little bit from inside the cab

A few questions on game play:

How do you complete the dwarves to achieve that arekenstone? Felt like I was hitting the targets constantly but took forever to light the arkentone for it.

how many times do you have to spell lock? Same issue, seemed like I was spelling it many times, but took a long time to mark the stone.

Takes a long time just to get to itf bcause those two took forever.

Dwarfes are not only on the targets. Those account for 10 of the 13 dwarfes. The two orbits and the captive ball are also dwarfes.

For the locks I think you need to start Smaug Multiball once for the Arkenstone to be awarded, but not 100% on that. I can check tonight.

Thanks. And how do you spell RACE?

Hitting the sets of drop targets light either man, elf or dwarf modes. It is not the characters R A C E but the race (like in the kind of people) you have to obtain. Bit confusing.

I got the anwer from Panzerfreak earlier in this thread.

I would change the instruction on that to 'hit all letters' to qualify each race modes. -or something to that effect.

Sorry if this has been asked before, I looked but couldn't find anything. I was wondering if anyone can explain the numbering of LE Jersey Jack pins. I have a WOZ LE and a Hobbit LE. I understand they're not numbered in the order they're made and when placing an order you can choose which number you want. What I want to know is there some way I can tell by my number or serial when it was produced. I'm also wondering if there is a way to prove it. For example my Hobbit LE is number 544. Is there a way to find out and prove what number it was on the production line?

Why do you care? Look at the date on the back of the machine for "born on".

Also, I bet you can call JJP and give them the serial number and they will look it up and get the LE number and build date.

Thank you Ill give that a shot.

Hey guys, my captive ball will sometimes not work. 50 percent of the time when I hit it - it will do as it should. Other times I can nail it straight on and it just bricks off of it and doesn't budge the captive ball at all. I took it out and it looks straight to me. So I but it back and still same behavior. I notice when I hit it more from the side - especially from the top flipper it always works - but straight on - 50/50. Anyone else having this happen - if so, how did you resolve?

Make sure your ball guides are spread and angled properly so that the free ball rests cleanly all the way down against the fixed ball and has the maximum potential for being croqueted properly (or whatever the term may be) up the lane. I had one where the channel was too tight once.

Is the rolling ball resting firmly on the newton ball?
If there is even the smallest gap between the two it will never budge.
Check for debris or imperfections in the playfield under the rolling ball. Wax the area to see if the rolling ball comes to rest better on the newton ball.
Also check that the newton ball is not set too low or bent forward. The 2 balls have to be aligned perfectly by height, add a thin washer to raise the newton ball if its low or rotate it until it matches.
If the rolling ball is low you can add a mylar under it to raise it or if there is a dent under it the mylar will fill it.

I had a similar problem on my ToM. The newton ball was very slightly bent and also slightly low from over tightening.

Great advise guys - I was going to clean and wax the PF and change out the flipper rubbers. So I will do the above to the captive ball area to get that working 100%.

Thanks!

Totally out there but is it possible either the newton or the ball have become magnetized to each other?

Sometimes (be very careful) you can tighten the newton ball to lower it.
If you think the ball is too high from the factory, have them send you a replacement. It might be just a poorly made ball.

I'd also check to see that the plastic that sits above it isn't interfering with the movement of the free-rolling ball.

Update: There is mylar on inside the newton ball path - so it does sit on mylar already. I slightly pushed out the guide rails and the ramp sides that is close and it seems to be working much better now. So I will play with it like this a few days and see if it is smooth as butter now.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions!

Got a Weta party magnet ... this looks like a good place for it.

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I also got a Hobbit movie crew gift. Internet shows it is legitimate, so I am happy with the find.

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Anyone recognize this clear broken piece. I found it in the bottom of my cabinet when I was replacing a spring. It is not from the beast ball blockers. Any thoughts?

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Frank of JJP sent us one of these free of charge when we called to ask about the humming in speakers. All better now!

Is that from one of the beast switch guards?

No - they all seem to be intact and not broken. I checked those first. All the plastics on the playfield look OK. I think it must be something under the playfield but not sure what.

I may post this on the JJP google group to see if it gets more JJP eyes on it.

I mean, not the ball trap fix, but the clear plastic that keeps the beast leaf switches from turning sideways?

When I called customer support I had to leave a message. They called back a few days later and when I said what I was hearing, and that a ground loop isolator would prob help, they said "yep". And that was it.

I'll check and report back - thanks!

Learn what the colors mean. If you're on the newest code, Purple shots are dwarves - when you collect them, they turn white. So if you see Purple - those are your remaining dwarf shots.

You are right - it is from the two pieces that sandwich the leaf switches on both sides to keep the nice and vertical. I will need to remove the popup mech and replace it. I'll post pictures when I take it off for all to see. It it the goblin BTW. I'll post pictures later.

Edit. Best I can tell before I take it off is that there is just one clear piece that sits on the left side facing them.

If you order one you might as well order a couple.
This is one piece that should have been made out of black delrin imho...

They never break on MM, same part.

Don't crank the lock nut on too tight.

LTG : )

Do you think they were tightened too much at the factory?
All of mine were cracked but not broken, but my game was made in week 2 of initial assembly.