Quoted from Bendit:Hobbit down!
That rubber was torn from the factory install. It's the one behind the barrels.
bummer... Noticed that JJP's store doesn't have white rubbers?
mine also broke same rubber! no biggie just replaced it.
Quoted from Bendit:Hobbit down!
That rubber was torn from the factory install. It's the one behind the barrels.
bummer... Noticed that JJP's store doesn't have white rubbers?
mine also broke same rubber! no biggie just replaced it.
Quoted from Bendit:Hobbit down!
That rubber was torn from the factory install. It's the one behind the barrels.
bummer... Noticed that JJP's store doesn't have white rubbers?
I ordered my replacements from https://www.titanpinball.com/ - but I got clear (not white). And replaced them all, and got a few extra rings and flipper rubbers (which I do green on the bottom and red on top right flipper)
Quoted from Goronic:but I got clear (not white).
interesting idea! Thanks!
Quoted from Goronic:I also installed the cliffy protector kit for the hobbit
Good work. Wondering if I should do that too.
Quoted from freddy:no biggie just replaced it.
It's no biggie if you have a replacement on-hand. Without this rubber, the ball always gets stuck behind the pops.
Boondocker might hook me up tonight with one of his spares!
By they way - there reason I went with transparent (clear) rubbers was 2 fold:
1. It doesn't appear to show grey/black residue on it as bad as white does. Looks cleaner longer.
2. It makes the lights look better when it shines on them (to me)
I also switched the black post rubbers to clear as well because the black rubber (as it ages and wears) will come off and on to the play field. The clear will do that but harder to see (so cleaner look). I still go in a wax and clear the PF every month or so to keep it nice and shiny and free of debris.
Quoted from Bendit:Good work. Wondering if I should do that too.
I think they add good protection - and I think they look cool to boot. (more metal on the PF looks nice to me - within reason of course.)
Quoted from Goronic:1. It doesn't appear to show grey/black residue on it as bad as white does. Looks cleaner longer.
2. It makes the lights look better when it shines on them (to me)
Sold!
Did you buy a "kit" or a bunch of them separately?
Quoted from Bendit:It's no biggie if you have a replacement on-hand. Without this rubber, the ball always gets stuck behind the pops.
Boondocker might hook me up tonight with one of his spares!
That will learn ya! Be prepared mama was right.
Quoted from Bendit:Hobbit down!
That rubber was torn from the factory install. It's the one behind the barrels.
bummer... Noticed that JJP's store doesn't have white rubbers?
That one breaks on mine all of the time. I try to rotate it when it starts to tear. I still cannot figure out what is causing it to tear though.
Quoted from crwjumper:I still cannot figure out what is causing it to tear though.
Maybe the side of the leaves from the switch?
Quoted from Bendit:Sold!
Did you buy a "kit" or a bunch of them separately?
I got this for the cliffy.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/hobbit.htm
For the rubbers I went into the manual and ordered the sizes they have listed. Got a few extra like 3/8 inch IDs and stuff. Ordered them separately.
http://docs.jerseyjackpinball.com/the-hobbit/Hobbit_Manual_3_0_Dec_2016.pdf (C-104 and C-105)
Quoted from elf70:For some reason, Victor @ JJP suggested I use the loctite on screws that were holding in the drop target banks to the bottom of the playfield that were coming loose. I was going to do the same on my beast head screws that keep coming loose but he also in the same message specifically said not to use the loctite on the beast head screws, only the drop target banks.. and I am not sure why.. any ideas?
If you are settting screws into the playfield plywood itself use titebond III. If the hole is stripped put a piece of toothpick or bamboo skewer in the hole with glue and set the screw.
Metal on metal screws should be installed with loctite blue.
The character heads keep coming loose without the addition of some type of removable adhesive.
Loctite "blue" or permatex "blue" will hold the screws tightly and still allow you to remove them as needed.
Im using loctite blue all over the place on my games.
As soon as I see a screw come loose from use or vibration I just add a couple drops of blue loctite to them and re-install. The problem usually goes away.
Be aware that there are many colors of loctite and permatex adhesives.
Each color corresponds to the level of adhesion. Blue and purple are designed for removable applications.
Never use red adhesive on a pinball game. You will never get the screw out without applying heat.
Quoted from FlippyD:Finally got the barrel lamp mods all installed. They look awesome!
They do look nice - I may get those as well. Can you take a quick pick holding the original spotlight next the barrel for scale? I am worried that if it is too large it would block too much of the playfield.
Quoted from mima:I cooked up these decals for the dwarf stand up targets. What's your opinion?
Cheers
/mima
Here is an reference image to see what the decals actually look like in context to what they look like photographed applied to my friends H-LE by my friend...
Cheers
/mima
Quoted from Goronic:They do look nice - I may get those as well. Can you take a quick pick holding the original spotlight next the barrel for scale? I am worried that if it is too large it would block too much of the playfield.
Sorry already reused the spots in another game! But they don't block much more than the original spots did. Maybe a tiny percent more but not enough to feel like they are obscuring things.
Quoted from konghusker:I finally killed smaug last night!!! What an amazing sequence. I just love this game.
Congrats,I'm still looking forward to my first time
Quoted from Wildbill327:Congrats,I'm still looking forward to my first time
Thanks. Took me a year, but worth it. I watched a how to video to understand, but stopped it short so it didn't ruin the show for me. What a great game. Now hoping for one final wizard mode to be added, and I'll feel like the game is done.
Quoted from konghusker:I finally killed smaug last night!
I'm still working on that.
Quoted from FlippyD:Finally got the barrel lamp mods all installed. They look awesome!
I would love to see a pic that shows the overall effect
Quoted from pinball_keefer:Default settings actually spot 1 for you at ball start, but that was changed later so you may or may not have that set.
All 6 have to be lit at once. Other than that, after you get it, ou do have to earn all of them again, meaning you have to use them up first.
Well, I did have one spotted at start. Changed the "Mode Difficulty" to 5 instead of 4 and that made it do none are spotted at game start. What do the higher difficulties do for that option?
If you are a perfectionist like me Keith...there are a few inconsistencies in the capitalization in the game settings menu. They're easy to spot.
Also, I started the mode "The Bait" and then immediately started "Battle of 5 Armies"...and The Bait kept going during 5 Armies! Is that right? It died out after the mode timer ended, but didn't seem like it should be active. Same with reaching Erebor and starting an Arkenstone mode. The super spinner stays active.
Excuse my ignorance if this has been spoken of already. I have a Hobbit LE on location and I am experiencing these mechanical issues (see pics). The drop target coil stop studs and drop target "latch edges" are breaking away. I can epoxy the edges back no problem and they hold, but the studs are pretty much sheared off and unfortunately, welded to the frame.
I have already called JJP and they have sent over new DT mechs, but I know this will happen again as the machine in question gets A LOT of play.
Has anyone had a machine/weld shop re-weld studs to the frame ?
Thanks to any reply.
Question: How do I "earn" the Golumn ring save?
What does the target on the lower right outline do?
Thanks guys, I've had a few theories, but still don't quite get what's happening.
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:Question: How do I "earn" the Golumn ring save?
What does the target on the lower right outline do?
Thanks guys, I've had a few theories, but still don't quite get what's happening.
I believe Gollum Ring Save is lit by getting your Mystery target to level 4 and then hitting it.
The Beorn target in the lower right outlane is an "add-a-ball" if hit during a Multiball and the inlanes lights are strobing in a sequence towards it. The target has nothing to do with Smeagal/Gollum.
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:Question: How do I "earn" the Golumn ring save?
What does the target on the lower right outline do?
Thanks guys, I've had a few theories, but still don't quite get what's happening.
Ring save is a mystery award. The lower right outlane target adds a ball during multiball modes.
Quoted from FlippyD:Ring save is a mystery award.
It's my favorite Mystery. It's awesome. Love the movie sequence on the LCD too.
Quoted from Bendit:It's my favorite Mystery. It's awesome. Love the movie sequence on the LCD too.
Agreed. Also like the challenge of avoiding the mystery target to build the mystery award.
Quoted from Jvspin:avoiding the mystery target
Agreed. Except I hit all over the place when Smaug multiball starts. I'm like a large mammal in a pinball shop...
Quoted from mima:Here is an reference image to see what the decals actually look like in context to what they look like photographed applied to my friends H-LE by my friend...
Cheers
/mima
I like these! Can I purchase a set?
Quoted from wolv3:How do you build the mystery and how do you know what level you're on?
If I remember correctly, look at the color of the triangle shaped inserts on the ball guide just before the flippers.
They start out flashing blue. When you go down an inlane the color will go solid on that side. When you go down the other side, the mystery shot will light with that color, ie. blue for the first level, and the triangle inserts will advance to the color of the next level award and start flashing again.
Each time you go down a left and right inlane without hitting the mystery shot, the color will advance until you get to solid green on both sides which lights the mystery shot for the gollum ball save award. I believe it's the fourth level.
Hitting the mystery target gives the current award and resets the triangle inserts back to flashing blue.
Quoted from netman63129:I like these! Can I purchase a set?
Send me a PM and we'll work something out.
Cheers
/Micael
Quoted from MarcelG:Excuse my ignorance if this has been spoken of already. I have a Hobbit LE on location and I am experiencing these mechanical issues (see pics). The drop target coil stop studs and drop target "latch edges" are breaking away. I can epoxy the edges back no problem and they hold, but the studs are pretty much sheared off and unfortunately, welded to the frame.
I have already called JJP and they have sent over new DT mechs, but I know this will happen again as the machine in question gets A LOT of play.
Has anyone had a machine/weld shop re-weld studs to the frame ?
Thanks to any reply.
I have had to replace two banks - just due to this. I hope JJP will correct and make those more resilient and allow existing mechs to be refurbished for a reasonable price
With the code 2.00, the game is amazing.
For me it takes 2 more things:
-a grand finale (after completing the 31 modes, the 3 mini wizard mode, shoot down the dragon)
- get harder access to the mini wizard mode: example (in addition to multibead beast, ereaborn ,,): for the 1st mini wizard mode obligation to complete 2 modes; For the 2nd: obligation to finish 4 modes; For the 3rd: obligation to finish 6 modes
Quoted from sebseb12:With the code 2.00, the game is amazing.
For me it takes 2 more things:
-a grand finale (after completing the 31 modes, the 3 mini wizard mode, shoot down the dragon)
- get harder access to the mini wizard mode: example (in addition to multibead beast, ereaborn ,,): for the 1st mini wizard mode obligation to complete 2 modes; For the 2nd: obligation to finish 4 modes; For the 3rd: obligation to finish 6 modes
I think the 'arrows' that light up when you complete should go to 2 for the next one, and 3 for the BOFA. It would look cool on the backglass monitor and simple to understand. Perhaps to get the final mode you would also need to kill Smaug.
When I upgraded my machine to version 1.90 I didn't have a clue what I was doing. Now it is time to attempt to install version 2.0. I notice on JJP website there is a download for "Hobbit Change Log version 2.0". Am I suppose to install this too or just "Hobbit Change Install Ver.2.0 (USA mirror)"? Thanks for any advice.
Quoted from fordtudoor:I notice on JJP website there is a download for "Hobbit Change Log version 2.0". Am I suppose to install this too
No. That just tells you what was changed in the update.
Just download and install this one - The Hobbit Delta Install Ver 2.00 (USA Mirror)
LTG : )
I don't think jjp will let us down with code,up dated woz after 4 years so I am sure we will get more code
Quoted from Bendit:Anybody have mirror blades for The Hobbit?
I have blades in all my games, except The Hobbit...
Get them from cointaker. Have them in mine. They are the same ones used in bw games.
Like these?
http://cointaker.com/products/copy-of-stern-dmd-mirror-blades
(why are they called DMD mirror blades? What does the DMD have anything to do with cabinet mirrors????)
Quoted from mima:no mirrors but
These are nice!!!! Where are they from? Is it a sticker/decal?
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/73 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.