Does anyone else notice small airballs coming off of the beast mechs and the standup targets behind the drops? I wonder if a steeper angle such as 7-7.5 degrees would reduce airballs off of those areas? I do have Perfect Play bands on my game so I'm not sure if that is increasing airballs as well. The Hobbit itself shipped with flipper bands that are not as wide compared to traditional flipper bands.

My Worg mech was stuck open after a game last night. Moved it a little and it went back down, but now there's resistance from about halfway up to fully up, and it drops down slowly compared to the other 3 mechs. Raised the playfield and nothing obvious is in a bind. Suggestions?

You may have to file chamfer and adjust the plastic ball trap guide fix

After messing with it, it appears the plastic bushing on the rod below the worg was binding. A little wiggling and it's back to working normally.

I don't really notice it, might be worth a shot.

lean on the middle top of the lock down. This will put pressure and make it lock.

As it was my first NIB i didn't realise how tight the seals were on new machines.

Finally beat Smaug first time last night. Wow. What a show!
I hope the other modes are just as good to finish.

BTW... where is the new code!

I hope Keith keeps on developing the Hobbit code - he is doing great so far and he can take it even further. Alot of what is in the hobbit now with the modes and arkenstone modes make great use of video, sound, and lights. Really cool...

Anyone have issues with the headphone jack, my machine doesn't recognise when they are plugged in, been like that from new. Someone told me it may be a code issue?

Did you flip the switch on the little board on the coin door?

Yes I tried that, still nothing. Opened a support ticket with JJP and they suggested that too, but got no further help from them.

Some times you have to push the headphone jack in very firmly until it clicks, it should bottom out
Mine was super tight at first and I had to adjust the volume inside the door as well as the green buttons.

I meant the switch inside the coin door on the upper left that is hidden, sorry.

Yes,the toggle switch that's labelled "Mute,Disable,Enable".

I've tried removing the Pinnovator board from the coin door to make sure the jack is seated properly. Also tried the ethernet cable connections at both ends and between the main metal box and the sound board.

The volume buttons on the board seem to function in that they turn the leds on and off as they should, and you can hear a small pop through the headphones when you press them.

The only thing I can think of is to bypass the headphone jack in the door.

Plug headphones directly into the headphone jack on the back of the computer, Its probably blue where as the speaker mains are probably green if they havent been bypassed.

Also check if all of the RCA cables are fitted correctly on the computer.

Some cables also run thru the silver computer cabinet onto the sound board on the PC. Check those also by unplugging and then reinserting. Make sure all of the cables are firmly seated in all areas while you are there, Both on the outside of the case and on the inside on the boards.

If you can get sound in headphones directly off of the computer headphone jack but not at the door panel then its a wire problem or a problem with the fitting on the door.

The pinnovator door board plugs into the computer also. You can trace the wire back to the PC.

If you raise the volume up all the way on the front panel inside and outside do you hear static or any sound at all from the headphones?

Do your headphones work on other devices?

Does your headphone have a volume control?

Im just covering all the bases here.

I've tried several different headphones so it's not them.
Already tried all the plugs around the sound board and at the back of the computer.
Just tried plugging headphones into the blue socket at the back and there's nothing.
Yes when plugged into the pinnovator board you can hear static when at max volume and the popping sound from the volume buttons also increases in volume when you press them.
Not sure if it's related but mine was one that had the background inteference problem that was solved by fitting a ground loop insulator as recommended by someone on here.

Ok, I've tried reconnecting all the jacks again and finally it works! Thanks for your help.

Yay! you got it working!
The ground loop isolators are stock on the WOZ, at least on my my eclewoz version.

I've had my LE almost 2 weeks now.
I can't remember ever seeing the ramp diverter come down.
I tried to test the coil...but I'm missing something. When I get into the menu, I get to the coil section. It says to push the start button to test the coils, but none will fire. I can see the location on the map.
What am I doing wrong?

Pull out the upper white coin door switch to test coils with the door open.

Thanks
The diverter coil fires.
It's a very quick down then up. I guess I expected it to go down and stay down for a while.
Does that sound normal?
I bet I've just never noticed it before.

In test the coils just fire shortly, its a test.

The ramp diverter is used in the moon runes mode. I comes down very quick and at the right time to force it down the other ramp. If yours goes down and up quickly then it will work properly. It isn't used much yet, but I bet Keith will add more later.

Its also used in the barrel escape I think.

I still get sound static and volume changes during call outs even with ground loop isolator. Is this normal?

I think the erratic volume changes are a code problem that's still waiting to be fixed.

Ground loop fix only gets rid of the constant buzzing/humming.

Gotcha, thanks.

Obvious new Hobbit LE owner here. Another question/concern. I'm trying to get the right playfield angle (6.5-7 degrees). I am using android apps (I know I'm supposed to get the pro tool, but haven't). I found that after a month I am having a really hard time hitting the spinners, thus can't make it to Erebor. Level is fine (I already had a good real level). So I thought maybe it had settled since I have carpet. I rechecked and was now at 5.9. So jacked up the back. To get even close to 6.5, I find that I'm almost to the end of where the legs will go. Could this all be from settling? Or is this what you guys have yours at? I may have to bite the bullet and get a good clinometer.

Carpet can do weird things to leveling so I suspect that is the problem. It should get better as they sink in. The head of the machine weights more so that is why you need to crank it up like that. I have had to add cardboard too to the top legs.

The orbits are a tough shot but it can be made and you can get better at it with practice. I don't think the angle affects the orbit though.

Best angle is about 7° and you may need to turn up power on your flippers a bit to make the shots. Try small power adjustments to get it right, as you don't want them too strong and doing damage. Adjustments are made in settings menu coils.

You should be able to make both ramps from both flippers when the game is adjusted properly. A cradled ball should just barely make a backhanded shot up a ramp. If it's too strong than the shots can be a bit too easy and the ball can fly and jump off the ramps more.

Each machine and floor is going to be a bit different but I have mine at 7 degrees incline and 26 flipper settings.

Wood blocks and a Craftsman digital level/incline device fixed it. I'm at 6.8/6.9 and plays much better. Also, put it at 5 balls per game to help out. I've gotten barrel chase once. I hate it when it is lit and can't hit the hole! Love this game!

I had my game at 6.9 for a long time, it was good for my initial testing, now its at 7.1 and I think about perfect.

Just for inspirational purposes.
This is my "one-of-a-kind" design of a lit topper for one of my friends Hobbit LE.

Cheers
/Mima

What's the issue? Won't lock? Try pressing down on bar to left of ring button and that is the fix for most. Tried to adjust it for hours once and could not get a better fix but pressure works every time for me.

Oh, and I made these too... DSC_0008_5.JPGDSC_0005_4.JPG

Has anyone had any trouble with their "Book Screen". Mine has been very dark, and the entirely black, during most games lately. It intermittently comes back from time to time. There is a blue "printer" cable I've reseated at both ends, and a yellow/black pair that seems to go back to the power supply, I've also reseated with no luck. Any thoughts? Thanks guys.

Go to Jersey Jack Pinball .com and open a ticket.

LTG : )

Nice work!!

Thanks!

Opened ticket last night, new screen assembly on the way today. Great customer service by Jjp. Thank you!

thoses flippers look amazing!

Relatively new Smaug owner. Anyone have any suggestions on where to find instructions on how to play Hobbit? For instance, many have mentioned beating Smaug, but I have no idea how to go about it. I enjoy the game, but am just shooting randomly at targets. Other than Smaug multiball, I have no idea what I am doing. I suspect the game will become much more addictive one I learn what I am doing!

This is a good reference:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-hobbit-rulesheet/page/3#post-3421626

Anybody try the true color plastic protectors from pinballbulbs? I currently have washers in my games, but wanted to upgrade.

I read about 3-4 months ago that they did not leave enough room for the ball to drop from the ramp returns and the guy that bought them had to modify them to make them work. I hope that they fixed that ... I like the look of those too. Has anybody ordered a set recently?

I'm trying to decide if I even need them or if washers will truly save the plastic. Also, are the return lane plastics ever really in danger of getting broken?

These were the best from @indypinhead, near perfection:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-plastic-protectors-from-indypinhead

see if he has any left