(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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#2551 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd definitely try that.
LTG : )

Ok, thanks. I thought there was a full 1.9 install, but it's ok. I'll do the full install then update to 1.9

#2552 3 years ago

Lloyd, the update doesn't work. The machine just starts up normally with the USB stick installed. I try to do it manually but it doesn't like it either. Is it because it's 1.01 or is it something else?

#2553 3 years ago
Quoted from spandol:

Lloyd, the update doesn't work.

Did you follow the instructions on the website ?

If it doesn't work. It doesn't like the USB stick. You didn't get a clean download. Or didn't put it on the USB stick right.

You got the full install in right ? Then put the 1.90 on a USB stick with nothing else on it. Turn the game on. Then plug the USB stick in. Go to Utilities - USB Update, and follow the instructions on the screen.

The screen should say update in progress, after a bit go black. Don't worry. Let it run until the game reboots. then remove the USB stick and you are good to go.

LTG : )

#2554 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Did you follow the instructions on the website ?
If it doesn't work. It doesn't like the USB stick. You didn't get a clean download. Or didn't put it on the USB stick right.
You got the full install in right ? Then put the 1.90 on a USB stick with nothing else on it. Turn the game on. Then plug the USB stick in. Go to Utilities - USB Update, and follow the instructions on the screen.
The screen should say update in progress, after a bit go black. Don't worry. Let it run until the game reboots. then remove the USB stick and you are good to go.
LTG : )

I got the full install and followed the directions, but it says to turn on the machine with the stick installed and it will start the update, which it doesn't do. There was no link for 1.9 full update only 1.01. I'll try a different stick tomorrow, but putting a full install of 1.01 on a USB stick worked with no issues, but it wouldnt install on the machine like the instructions say it would.

#2555 3 years ago

Make sure you guys keep wires away from coil kick backs. One of my drop targets on the 3 bank to the right stopped working. After investigating a few wires got punched and cut. Had to fix them and zip tie them back.

image (resized).jpg

#2556 3 years ago
Quoted from spandol:

I got the full install and followed the directions, but it says to turn on the machine with the stick installed and it will start the update, which it doesn't do.

For the full install. Did you open Unetbootin and use that to put the full install on the memory stick ?

Quoted from spandol:There was no link for 1.9 full update only 1.01.

Quoted from spandol:

There was no link for 1.9 full update only 1.01.

http://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/ it's there - go to Downloads - Hobbit - middle of the right side 1.90 ( this is a delta to be put in after the full install is done. )

LTG : )

#2557 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

For the full install. Did you open Unetbootin and use that to put the full install on the memory stick ?.

http://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/ it's there - go to Downloads - Hobbit - middle of the right side 1.90 ( this is a delta to be put in after the full install is done. )
LTG : )

Yes, I did it like the instructions

I know 1.9 delta is there, but I need to get the full install of 1.01 first. I'll try a different USB stick. Might be he issue.

#2558 3 years ago
Quoted from dannunz:

Make sure you guys keep wires away from coil kick backs. One of my drop targets on the 3 bank to the right stopped working. After investigating a few wires got punched and cut. Had to fix them and zip tie them back.

I must say that I wasn't too thrilled when I first saw the tiny wires and connectors used in the Hobbit Pinball.

#2559 3 years ago
Quoted from spandol:

Yes, I did it like the instructions
I know 1.9 delta is there, but I need to get the full install of 1.01 first. I'll try a different USB stick. Might be he issue.

make sure the hobbit_update folder/files are in the root directory of the USB dire or it doesn't work.

and LTG - some needs to rewrite the update instructions from the JJP website. It references WOZ, has a few things in it that aren't exactly what you see when you do it, and could be a clearer. That said, I did get it done eventually.

#2560 3 years ago
Quoted from bonanza:

make sure the hobbit_update folder/files are in the root directory of the USB dire or it doesn't work.
and LTG - some needs to rewrite the update instructions from the JJP website. It references WOZ, has a few things in it that aren't exactly what you see when you do it, and could be a clearer. That said, I did get it done eventually.

For the full install, Unetbootin sets up the files in the root directory of the USB drive. It didn't create the hobbit_update folder like the Delta 1.9 did. For this reason, I can't do an install manually. I will try a different USB stick today. That may be the issue as the install doesn't start up when I turn on the machine. Thanks for the response Bonanza. I agree, the update instructions need to be updated.

#2561 3 years ago

Got it to work. It's all about having the right USB drive. Now I just have to see if this fixed my video/audio sync issues.

#2562 3 years ago

Screw that! For only $30K more (or the price of two BM66 SLE pinball machines!) you can get a KILLER WHALE submarine you can actually pilot! I am asking for this for Christmas

http://www.hammacher.com/Product/Default.aspx?sku=11990&refsku=12185&xsp=3&promo=xsells

#2563 3 years ago

HELP NEEDED! I finally received my LE Hobbit (production date of 10/21). When I turn it on, no PF lights come on. The LCD screen, the PF book, the 4 spotlights, and the Start Button work. Also, the Smaug head turns. The machine also does not recognize that no balls are present (I had not added the 5 balls; I just wanted to see the PF lit; I was going to install the Cliffy's protectors first). On inspection, there are 3 Molex units not connected towards the back & bottom of the cabinet (see photo): one female with 2 blue wires, one male with 1 black & 1 yellow wires, and one male with 2 white, 1 green, 2 black wires (it's multi wire harness is relatively long compared to the other two).

I'm sure theses should be connected somewhere. Any advice is well appreciated.

TH 001 (resized).JPG

#2564 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

HELP NEEDED! I finally received my LE Hobbit (production date of 10/21). When I turn it on, no PF lights come on. The LCD screen, the PF book, the 4 spotlights, and the Start Button work. Also, the Smaug head turns. The machine also does not recognize that no balls are present (I had not added the 5 balls; I just wanted to see the PF lit; I was going to install the Cliffy's protectors first). On inspection, there are 3 Molex units not connected towards the back & bottom of the cabinet (see photo): one female with 2 blue wires, one male with 1 black & 1 yellow wires, and one male with 2 white, 1 green, 2 black wires (it's multi wire harness is relatively long compared to the other two).
I'm sure theses should be connected somewhere. Any advice is well appreciated.

Check around for the matching wire colors on any empty connectors in the harness.
The black and white looks like it may go to the big light board on the playfied.
Lloyd will have much better input on this.

#2565 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I'm sure theses should be connected somewhere. Any advice is well appreciated.

The yellow wire and black wire one isn't used. The other two are. Dig around the rear on the metal box with the boards, under it, and sides, to find the other ends to plug them into.

LTG : )

#2566 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The yellow wire and black wire one isn't used. The other two are. Dig around the rear on the metal box with the boards, under it, and sides, to find the other ends to plug them into.
LTG : )

There are no wires going under the metal box. There are no wires coming out from under the box. I checked all sides and could not see or feel any. I really don't want to lift the metal box! If the sought after connectors are under the box, where are the respective supplying wires coming from? They surely wouldn't be arising through the metal bottom of the box?

#2567 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

no PF lights come on.

Under the playfield between the character pop ups, find the board in this picture. Plug the USB cable back in - you'll have playfield lights.

LTG : )

HobbitLedsOut (resized).jpeg

#2568 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Under the playfield between the character pop ups, find the board in this picture. Plug the USB cable back in - you'll have playfield lights.
LTG : )

It worked!!! Thank you, thank you! This is why I'm happy to donate money to Pinside!

Can I ignore the unconnected Molex units as previously described? You said the yellow/black wire one isn't used. What about the other 2?

#2570 3 years ago

Quick question, has anybody had light board issues on there Hobbit? there the same boards as WOZ right just individualy wired instead of chained together like a WOZ? want to buy a used Hobbit but scared of no warranty and board issues popping up.

#2571 3 years ago

Not the same boards as WOZ it's a ground-up redesign. Other differences include the fact that Hobbit GI are white only where WOZ had RGB throughout and that Hobbit has several special LEDs to simulate traditional 89/906 flashers. The wires are rather tiny to say the least and there have been issues here and there with the boards that control the various groups of lights (mounted under the playfield) but as far as issues overall it has been night and day with WOZ. Hobbit lighting is exponentially more reliable.

#2572 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Not the same boards as WOZ it's a ground-up redesign. Other differences include the fact that Hobbit GI are white only where WOZ had RGB throughout and that Hobbit has several special LEDs to simulate traditional 89/906 flashers. The wires are rather tiny to say the least and there have been issues here and there with the boards that control the various groups of lights (mounted under the playfield) but as far as issues overall it has been night and day with WOZ. Hobbit lighting is exponentially more reliable.

thanks man i appreciate the info!

#2573 3 years ago

woohoo, just got an email from Jen!
might most likely not work out for a christmas present to myself, but who cares to wait a couple more weeks after 3+ years?
right now i'm just stoked to be on the finish line of receiving Smaug Gold #85

#2574 3 years ago
Quoted from Biv:

woohoo, just got an email from Jen!
might most likely not work out for a christmas present to myself, but who cares to wait a couple more weeks after 3+ years?
right now i'm just stoked to be on the finish line of receiving Smaug Gold #85

Wow, a christmas miracle is in order here!

#2575 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I agree. Most likely every machine if the wires are held by the same method.
In looking at my mech's again while I was doing the flap fix I noticed that every single one of them had a degree of cuts through the wire insulation (red box in the pic below).

I had actually stopped it from occurring accidentally some time ago by using a metal washer to stop the mech from becoming jammed due to the other beast fix.
By adding the washer it actually makes a gap into which the wire has somewhere to safely sit.
Pic below has the mech in the fully up position (green box) showing how the washer creates the gap (red box).

What size washer did you use. Thanks

#2576 3 years ago

My later production Hobbit (10/21) came with the "beast fix" installed: clear plastic inserts, 3/16'" thick. I assume I have to add the "washer fix" to prevent amputation of the green & white wires. Is my assumption correct? What size washer is best, diameter & thickness?

It looks like it is quite difficult to install each of the 4 washers!

#2577 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

What size washer did you use. Thanks

I did post somewhere else what size but as have them sitting right here.

3/16 x3/4 x18g

#2578 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

My later production Hobbit (10/21) came with the "beast fix" installed: clear plastic inserts, 3/16'" thick. I assume I have to add the "washer fix" to prevent amputation of the green & white wires. Is my assumption correct? What size washer is best, diameter & thickness?
It looks like it is quite difficult to install each of the 4 washers!

I can't speak for you specifically as the beast fix plastic may have changed now but see if the wires can get scissored between the plastic and the metal guide.

You only need a single washer. 4 total for the entire machine. Install it on the screw on which it has the curved metal slide.

Super easy and takes only a few seconds without having to remove anything else.

#2579 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I can't speak for you specifically as the beast fix plastic may have changed now but see if the wires can get scissored between the plastic and the metal guide.
You only need a single washer. 4 total for the entire machine. Install it on the screw on which it has the curved metal slide.
Super easy and takes only a few seconds without having to remove anything else.

Link to the thread or post with pictures? I must have missed this before?

#2580 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I can't speak for you specifically as the beast fix plastic may have changed now but see if the wires can get scissored between the plastic and the metal guide.
You only need a single washer. 4 total for the entire machine. Install it on the screw on which it has the curved metal slide.
Super easy and takes only a few seconds without having to remove anything else.

Thanks for your patience and response. I found your previous posts (page 46 in this Hobbit thread). I checked and the wires don't get crimped between the plastic insert & metal guide. Thanks again.

#2581 3 years ago
Quoted from bemmett:

Link to the thread or post with pictures? I must have missed this before?

It is somewhere in the 52 pages of this thread.

Here is a picture of what Koops did and shared with us.

LTG : )

washerhobbitfix (resized).jpg

#2582 3 years ago

I just picked up a Hobbit from another pinsider and one of the beast pop ups wont pop up. It trys to come up but only moves 1/4 inch up when the coil kicks in. It feels like the coil might be binding inside. Everything is tight and i can push it up and down with my hand but can feel a tight spot in the up and down movement. Has anybody delt with this issue at all and if so what was the reason.

#2583 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

if so what was the reason.

I'd check if the mech is binding in the playfield hole it goes up and down in. 5 screws hold the whole assembly. It can be loosened and moved a little.

LTG : )

#2584 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd check if the mech is binding in the playfield hole it goes up and down in. 5 screws hold the whole assembly. It can be loosened and moved a little.
LTG : )

i figured it out. i turned the nut on the bottom of the drive coil plunger alittle and now it works again. must of moved alittle during transport today cause i know it worked at the guys house i bought it from. thanks Loyd for quick response!

#2585 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

I just picked up a Hobbit from another pinsider and one of the beast pop ups wont pop up. It trys to come up but only moves 1/4 inch up when the coil kicks in. It feels like the coil might be binding inside. Everything is tight and i can push it up and down with my hand but can feel a tight spot in the up and down movement. Has anybody delt with this issue at all and if so what was the reason.

It has also been noted that the black back-plate that holds the character head can bend and cause binding if its not a coil sleeve or plunger issue.

These backplates can be bent back into shape without removal from the game in most cases by raising them and slightly bending them forwards or backwards towards the rear of the game.

#2586 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It has also been noted that the black back-plate that holds the character head can bend and cause binding if its not a coil sleeve or plunger issue.
These backplates can be bent back into shape without removal from the game in most cases by raising them and slightly bending them forwards or backwards towards the rear of the game.

Already had to do this with my Warg mech.

#2587 3 years ago

Anybody know of any decal kits for the standup targets? The set i put on WOZ really made game look finished and Hobbit has the same unfinished look with the standups all over the place.

#2588 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Anybody know of any decal kits for the standup targets? The set i put on WOZ really made game look finished and Hobbit has the same unfinished look with the standups all over the place.

I'm sure you're talking about the yellow targets, the three sets of three? It really is an "unfinished look". I used the three brown target decals for the Tron Pro Recognizer target bank. I had two extra sets (3/set). I went to pinballlife to purchase the third. However, your have to purchase the Tron Decal Set (approx. $14 to $15), even through you are going to use just the three brown target decals. That's one solution, but quite expensive (approx. $45) to get a total of 9 target decals! I will add, though, they really look great.

#2589 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I'm sure you're talking about the yellow targets, the three sets of three? It really is an "unfinished look". I used the three brown target decals for the Tron Pro Recognizer target bank. I had two extra sets (3/set). I went to pinballlife to purchase the third. However, your have to purchase the Tron Decal Set (approx. $14 to $15), even through you are going to use just the three brown target decals. That's one solution, but quite expensive (approx. $45) to get a total of 9 target decals! I will add, though, they really look great.

Note before & after photos. The TRON Pro/TRON LE High Wear Decal Set from Pinball Life is $9.95. You only use the 3 Recognizer target decals/set, so you have to order 3 sets. Shipping is approx. $8 to $9. The decals are of high quality & easy to install & easy to remove & reinstall if you make a mistake with alignment. There're black with a light brown/tan peripheral line.

I also added 81/2" mylar arch cover strips to protect the apron along the ball drain alley. I purchased them from Marco Specialties.

target decal 001 (resized).JPG

target decal 002 (resized).JPG

#2590 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Note before & after photos. The TRON Pro/TRON LE High Wear Decal Set from Pinball Life is $9.95. You only use the 3 Recognizer target decals/set, so you have to order 3 sets. Shipping is approx. $8 to $9. The decals are of high quality & easy to install & easy to remove & reinstall if you make a mistake with alignment. There're black with a light brown/tan peripheral line.
I also added 81/2" mylar arch cover strips to protect the apron along the ball drain alley. I purchased them from Marco Specialties.

Those really do look great, kind of a leather look. It matches perfectly.

#2591 3 years ago

Email the owner of pinball decals and he would make a set if you explain the game and the correct images needed

#2592 3 years ago

Quick question about the Coil Settings:

The kickers are adjustable but I don't understand the relationship between the setting and its effect. What are you adjusting when you increase or decrease the milliseconds for each kicker?? How long it holds the kick?? The delay before it kicks?? Which setting makes them stronger or more lively?

Thanks!

#2593 3 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Which setting makes them stronger or more lively?

More time - stronger. Less time - weaker.

LTG : )

#2594 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Note before & after photos. The TRON Pro/TRON LE High Wear Decal Set from Pinball Life is $9.95. You only use the 3 Recognizer target decals/set, so you have to order 3 sets. Shipping is approx. $8 to $9. The decals are of high quality & easy to install & easy to remove & reinstall if you make a mistake with alignment. There're black with a light brown/tan peripheral line.
I also added 81/2" mylar arch cover strips to protect the apron along the ball drain alley. I purchased them from Marco Specialties.

Where did you get these from? Do they scratch? I need to find something to cover the gouges in my black.. stuff =/

decal (resized).png

#2595 3 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Where did you get these from?

Those are from tilt graphics...pin graffix also makes some. I'm trying to figure out which I should get too

#2596 3 years ago

Added some more little mods by taking out my lit clear center of the flipper buttons and ring button replacing it with gold centers...pretty slick in my opinion

After and before pictures:

IMG_3946 (resized).JPG
IMG_3947 (resized).JPG
IMG_3941 (resized).JPG

#2597 3 years ago

Love the lit gold buttons, might have to steal that

#2598 3 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Added some more little mods by taking out my lit clear center of the flipper buttons and ring button replacing it with gold centers...pretty slick in my opinion
After and before pictures:

Love it where are the buttons from?

#2599 3 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Where did you get these from? Do they scratch? I need to find something to cover the gouges in my black.. stuff =/

I can't remember if their from tilt graphics, pin graffix or on eBay. They are of high quality & resistant to scratch, but they will if PF lifted carelessly. At the time of purchase, there were only two choices. The set I got, as pictured in previous post, and a set that were light tan and fit the theme of the apron decal.

When I received the graphics, they did not fit the contour of the backside of the cabinet. There was also no hole for the back box hinge nut/cap. Luckily, I had a set of Hobbit mirror blades. I used them as a template to cut the back ends of the graphics and make a hole for the hinge nut/cap. The hole is 5/8" diameter.

Presently, I like my graphics better than the regular mirror blades. I'll live with them awhile, but I did order a set of mirrored black blades. They might be really dramatic!

To protect the black cabinet sides, mirror blades if installed, or the decal graphics when raising the PF, I insert & tape sheets of paper between the cabinet sides and the PF, then raise the PF. It's a pain in the butt, but it's worth the protection!

#2600 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

To protect the black cabinet sides, mirror blades if installed, or the decal graphics when raising the PF, I insert & tape sheets of paper between the cabinet sides and the PF, then raise the PF. It's a pain in the butt, but it's worth the protection!

Your words speak of wisdom I've yet to even have a taste of. I won't rag on the JJP folks for having me lift the PF so much, it's a learning experience I guess...?

Mind if I ask where the mirror black blades came from? In my head they look sick as F@#&! The ones you had in the picture sure 'nuff were from tilt folks. I like them better than the gauged stock black stuff I have now but the faces on those decals don't do it for me.

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