(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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#2451 3 years ago

Every time I start a game, a few modes automatically trigger before plunging the ball. It's always different modes to. Anybody else have this issue? I'm assuming tight switches triggered by drop targets resetting.

#2452 3 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Every time I start a game, a few modes automatically trigger before plunging the ball. It's always different modes to. Anybody else have this issue? I'm assuming tight switches triggered by drop targets resetting.

I've seen this on multiplayer games only so far. Player one loses the ball and when player 2 is up it automatically shoots the ball.

#2453 3 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Every time I start a game, a few modes automatically trigger before plunging the ball. It's always different modes to. Anybody else have this issue? I'm assuming tight switches triggered by drop targets resetting.

Do you mean the skill shots? It is part of the game.

The available skill shots are : Dwarf drop targets, elf drop targets, one of the 4 inlanes, lock roll overs.

The skill shot can be selected by pressing the ring button. Note that by selecting a specific skill shot the reward isn't as much as it you go with the one selected automatically.

The true game modes can only be triggered by the optical switches on the ramps. These need to have their qualifiers lit prior so it is doubtful they are being triggered prior to the first ball being fired.

If its neither of these can you provide a little more info about what is actually happening?

#2454 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I like the upper sling to be able to bounce up through the lanes a bit to play the bounce/lane change game for bonuses.
I have it just right for me as it doesnt stay up there too long, just long enough to get a bonus multiplier once in awhile.
WOZ comes with black rubber through-out but has white for the upper sling.
I might just re-do it all and go with all white on my WOZ as others have done. It looks nice but gets dirty fast.
Changing it to a black rubber on the upper sling is a little less bouncy but lasts a lot longer.
I do like the bouncy feel of white rubber, its amazing on my TH and ToM.

Why not use transparent rubber rings throughout the PF. I replaced all black/white rubber rings on my Avengers LE Hulk and Tron Pro over a year ago and have no problems. Purchase from Terry at Pinballlife.

Which is best: black/white/transparent rubber rings?

#2455 3 years ago

Those are plastic flipper bats, probably white, with gold paint. With time, the paint may chip off! It happen to me! A purest would order metallic bats (stainless steel) and have them powder coated.

#2456 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Why not use transparent rubber rings throughout the PF. I replaced all black/white rubber rings on my Avengers LE Hulk and Tron Pro over a year ago and have no problems. Purchase from Terry at Pinballlife.
Which is best: black/white/transparent rubber rings?

I switched out all the white rubbers to transparent. Looks and shoots great!

#2457 3 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I switched out all the white rubbers to transparent. Looks and shoots great!

Got any pics of transparent ones used on the main slings? I'm wondering how much of the light they pick up.

#2458 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Got any pics of transparent ones used on the main slings? I'm wondering how much of the light they pick up.

I'll take some pics tonight and post them. I have the right side done completely, and the cliffy. I have to do the left side rubbers in the top left and that cliffy to finish. (ran out of time last weekend)

#2459 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Those are plastic flipper bats, probably white, with gold paint. With time, the paint may chip off! It happen to me! A purest would order metallic bats (stainless steel) and have them powder coated.

NOT!

#2460 3 years ago

Where did you purchase the GOLD flipper bats. I have purchased 2 Gold sets, one from pinballlife and one from Pinball Center in Germany. Both sets were white plastic bats painted gold. The gold paint has started to flake off in both sets!

Thanks

#2461 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Do you mean the skill shots? It is part of the game.
The available skill shots are : Dwarf drop targets, elf drop targets, one of the 4 inlanes, lock roll overs.
The skill shot can be selected by pressing the ring button. Note that by selecting a specific skill shot the reward isn't as much as it you go with the one selected automatically.
The true game modes can only be triggered by the optical switches on the ramps. These need to have their qualifiers lit prior so it is doubtful they are being triggered prior to the first ball being fired.
If its neither of these can you provide a little more info about what is actually happening?

Not the skill shots. I start game, ball poppa to trough and sits, and as I change skills shots, sometimes the screen registers modes have been opened. Their different modes to, not always the same ones. I was assuming switches rattling due to drop targets moving while changing skill shots. Just can't seem to find the specific problem

#2462 3 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Not the skill shots. I start game, ball poppa to trough and sits, and as I change skills shots, sometimes the screen registers modes have been opened. Their different modes to, not always the same ones. I was assuming switches rattling due to drop targets moving while changing skill shots. Just can't seem to find the specific problem

You might be right but the only switches that activate them are opto's. Check that all the ramp opto's are seated correctly. There should be pairs at each ramp entrance and also just after they curve left and right. There is also one on the entrance towards the pop bumpers.

#2463 3 years ago

5 more days and i'm officially in the club!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

#2464 3 years ago

Does anybody know why Hobbit doesn't even appear on this list at all? http://www.ipdb.org/lists.cgi?anonymously=true&list=top300

#2465 3 years ago
Quoted from ls1chris:

5 more days and i'm officially in the club!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Your going to love it!

#2466 3 years ago

Now, if someone would make a few mods.....

#2468 3 years ago

4 more days!!!!!!!!!!!!!

#2469 3 years ago

Joined the club on Sunday. I have been making trades and selling games all summer that ended in me getting a RR WOZ and a Hobbit SE with the radcals. I love both of the JJP games.

IMG_0941 (resized).JPG

#2470 3 years ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Where did you purchase the GOLD flipper bats. I have purchased 2 Gold sets, one from pinballlife and one from Pinball Center in Germany. Both sets were white plastic bats painted gold. The gold paint has started to flake off in both sets!
Thanks

Have you tried the gold mirror bats from Joey at Pinball Decals? It is possible to take a white plastsic flipper bat, paint it with conductive paint and then brass plate it. That should last a long time without flaking. Steve at Pinball Refinery could do that. He did it with the plastic coin door bezels on "The Hobbit SE".

#2471 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Now, if someone would make a few mods.....

... like a game interactive topper ...

#2472 3 years ago

Aloha! ^___^

I was worried I was getting in over my head owning a pinball machine but this place seems to have many knowledgeable friendly folks... I think I'll be okay. I got my LE TH this past Tuesday direct from JJP after a little over a year of waiting. I've read through most of the thread and the stories I've read about people waiting longer than me totally bummed me out. It wasn't until I reached out to Jack directly that I got a favorable reply via email. A day after reaching out to him my machine was being shipped.

I checked the shipping box, the packing envelope and the smaller box with the loose parts inside the shipping box... there is no machine # sticker like other folks have on their aprons. My machine number is #910 but the "deed of title" paper I got has a game # 596 of 1,500. I'm thinking it might be that I chose my number and that's why the numbers don't jive but since there's no # other than the s/n on the machine itself, I can't confirm...

It's 11pm so I don't think turning my machine on for the first time is a good idea in regards to being courteous to the neighbors but do I take it one step further and just wait until this new software update comes out? Reading through the thread says that one's coming out real soon. What do you folks think? Wait? Perhaps do some known beneficial tweaks until then?

p.s. mfg date 11/01/16

#2473 3 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Aloha! ^___^
I was worried I was getting in over my head owning a pinball machine but this place seems to have many knowledgeable friendly folks... I think I'll be okay. I got my LE TH this past Tuesday direct from JJP after a little over a year of waiting. I've read through most of the thread and the stories I've read about people waiting longer than me totally bummed me out. It wasn't until I reached out to Jack directly that I got a favorable reply via email. A day after reaching out to him my machine was being shipped.
I checked the shipping box, the packing envelope and the smaller box with the loose parts inside the shipping box... there is no machine # sticker like other folks have on their aprons. My machine number is #910 but the "deed of title" paper I got has a game # 596 of 1,500. I'm thinking it might be that I chose my number and that's why the numbers don't jive but since there's no # other than the s/n on the machine itself, I can't confirm...
It's 11pm so I don't think turning my machine on for the first time is a good idea in regards to being courteous to the neighbors but do I take it one step further and just wait until this new software update comes out? Reading through the thread says that one's coming out real soon. What do you folks think? Wait? Perhaps do some known beneficial tweaks until then?
p.s. mfg date 11/01/16

play it the neighbors won't mind. enjoy! id contact JJP about your numbering and I am sure they will square it up for you. GL with your game its one of the best!

#2474 3 years ago
Quoted from BowlingJim:

Joined the club on Sunday. I have been making trades and selling games all summer that ended in me getting a RR WOZ and a Hobbit SE with the radcals. I love both of the JJP games.

I got those flipper toppers too, they look so great IRL

#2475 3 years ago

Oh yeah... I forgot to ask last night (all that delicious turkey...)

Did you folks have a 2nd set of keys hanging just inside the coin door? They look like the set that opens the coin door but it's cut differently. I did a search through the manual pdf to see if there was a 2nd set needed elsewhere to no avail...

#2476 3 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Oh yeah... I forgot to ask last night (all that delicious turkey...)
Did you folks have a 2nd set of keys hanging just inside the coin door? They look like the set that opens the coin door but it's cut differently. I did a search through the manual pdf to see if there was a 2nd set needed elsewhere to no avail...

Yep

#2477 3 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Oh yeah... I forgot to ask last night (all that delicious turkey...)
Did you folks have a 2nd set of keys hanging just inside the coin door? They look like the set that opens the coin door but it's cut differently. I did a search through the manual pdf to see if there was a 2nd set needed elsewhere to no avail...

Those keys are for the backbox

#2478 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

... like a game interactive topper ...

Yup, or anything for that matter....

#2479 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Yup, or anything for that matter....

Laseriffic makes non-interactive toppers (the only Hobbit one so far that I know of)
beatmaster makes barrel spot lights, shooter rod housing lights (I bought yellow)
mustangpaul makes leg light up kits (I will eventually buy yellow)
a few people make plastic protectors
Amazon sells some small Hobbit keys, swords, & other things that a few people have added - I'll add those soon
Not much other than that ... I wish there was more too.

#2480 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Laseriffic makes non-interactive toppers (the only Hobbit one so far that I know of)
beatmaster makes barrel spot lights, shooter rod housing lights (I bought yellow)
mustangpaul makes leg light up kits (I will eventually buy yellow)
a few people make plastic protectors
Amazon sells some small Hobbit keys, swords, & other things that a few people have added - I'll add those soon
Not much other than that ... I wish there was more too.

The topper is really nice but for the cash?? No thanks.
The barrel's are nice too but I have yet to see one photo on a Hobbit yet.
Leg light up kits,are universal and while not my style, I get the idea.
Ive got the plastic protectors coming, full replacement rubber and flipper toppers already.

#2481 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

The barrel's are nice too but I have yet to see one photo on a Hobbit yet.

My TH is in my garage still "in the box" ... waiting for my Escalera (on week 3 now). I have the barrels in hand too. Once I get my pin in my basement and put the barrels on, I'll post a pic in his barrel thread ... if no one else puts a photo of them on a TH yet.

#2482 3 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Aloha! ^___^
My machine number is #910

I'm #914

#2483 3 years ago

So does anyone have a machine with a number less than 10?

#2484 3 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

So does anyone have a machine with a number less than 10?

LE or SE?

#2485 3 years ago

One of the popups in my game isnt registering hits- is there an easy fix/adjustment for this?

thanks

#2486 3 years ago
Quoted from denmark71:

is there an easy fix/adjustment for this?

Leaf blade switch - one leaf behind character face, one further back from it. WITH POWER OFF. Adjust/bend the rear one a little farther away from the front one.

LTG : )

#2487 3 years ago

I just discovered the wires going up to the switch are cut. Do I need to remove the entire mech to get to the switch? how does the PF flap go through the field attached to the warg?

thanks
peter

#2488 3 years ago

It's like TOM you have to take the clip and spring off to remove the flap from above, then the beast mech drops down from below.

#2489 3 years ago

So I've opened everything up. I cut the 4 orange zipties on the beast mechs and inspected the green/white wires that everyone seems to be having problems with. After moving each mech back and forth I too can see that over time my wires will also be cut through. I think I've moved them enough to fi the problem but only time will tell.

After powering on for the first time (oh so pretty *___*) and trying the game a few times:
What is going on with the speakers? There's a grainy sound... like you'd hear on an old speaker that's got a cheap audio cable plugged into it. Imagine a lawn mower off in the far distance.The game audio sounds good but the grainy sounds is very noticeable. Even with volume is at 0 the noise remains unchanged.
Also my right wire frame track, the upper portion (when the ball shoots up from beneath the playfield) seems bent at the end because it stops my ball from rolling through the rest of the track. I figure I can bend it easily enough but I'm disappointed that I would have to. The ball stuck brings me to my next gripe. The sounds this machine makes when a ball is stuck, MY GOD! haha. I wasn't prepared for it, I thought the damn thing was broken with all the grinding and popping noises it makes. I'm sure I'll get used to it but god forbid someone else try it for the first time hahaha. End rant.

#2490 3 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

So I've opened everything up. I cut the 4 orange zipties on the beast mechs and inspected the green/white wires that everyone seems to be having problems with. After moving each mech back and forth I too can see that over time my wires will also be cut through. I think I've moved them enough to fi the problem but only time will tell.
After powering on for the first time (oh so pretty *___*) and trying the game a few times:
What is going on with the speakers? There's a grainy sound... like you'd hear on an old speaker that's got a cheap audio cable plugged into it. The game audio sounds good but the grainy sounds is very noticeable.
Also my right wire frame track, the upper portion (when the ball shoots up from beneath the playfield) seems bent at the end because it stops my ball from rolling through the rest of the track. I figure I can bend it easily enough but I'm disappointed that I would have to. The ball stuck brings me to my next gripe. The sounds this machine makes when a ball is stuck, MY GOD! haha. I wasn't prepared for it, I thought the damn thing was broken with all the grinding and popping noises it makes. I'm sure I'll get used to it but god forbid someone else try it for the first time hahaha. End rant.

The thing is loud for sure. I too thought the drops were broken for the sound they were making!!

#2491 3 years ago

so with my popup switch wires broken- is it repairable or do I need to get a replacement switch from JJP first? Wires are really short.

Thanks

#2492 3 years ago
Quoted from denmark71:

switch wires broken- is it repairable

Yes. New switch won't help. Drop the mech, repair and route them better so they don't do it again.

LTG : )

#2493 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes. New switch won't help. Drop the mech, repair and route them better so they don't do it again.
LTG : )

Do you know if all of the beast mechs are wired this way, or did they figure out the problem and fix it in later builds?

#2494 3 years ago
Quoted from yonizzell:

Do you know if all of the beast mechs are wired this way, or did they figure out the problem and fix it in later builds?

No idea.

A Pinsider ( and I'm sorry I forgot who, to give credit to ) came up with the fix in the picture.

LTG : )

washerhobbitfix (resized).jpg

#2495 3 years ago

Has anyone had to remove a radcal decal to reposition or replace? Any advice on how to remove?

Thanks Martin

#2496 3 years ago
Quoted from denmark71:

so with my popup switch wires broken- is it repairable or do I need to get a replacement switch from JJP first? Wires are really short.
Thanks

Try to re-attach the wires, there may be some slack if you look in the harness and remove a couple zip ties.
Either solder them and apply heatshrink tubing to protect the joint (preferred method) or use automotive crimp connectors if you dont want to solder.

Automotive connectors are rated for vibration and are ok but wont last as long as the solder/heatshrink type of repair.
Most pinball guys will scream at a crimp connector being used, but really if you do it right it's ok, untill you maybe want to do a more perfect repair later.

Im also concerned that the stop at the bottom of the mech is too low.
The mech shouldnt hang on the flap, but instead should be stopped via the adjustable screw and nut at the bottom of the mech.
The mech should hit the stop with a tiny bit of pressure on the upper flap to keep it down.
If the stops at the bottom of the mech are set too low, the mech will hang from the springs, bounce, drop too low and cut the wires.

Re-route the wires if necessary.
These games are hand built and each will have its own tweaks and adjustments.

#2497 3 years ago

Small update. I've popped the playfield back to check my mech wires. The adjustments seems to be staying in place, thumbs up. My right wire track has only trapped my ball once out of maybe... 10 times. The noise I'm still trying to pinpoint. I've gone so far as to unplug the speaker and sub cables but the sound is still there. Irritating.

Maybe someone else has this going on?

#2498 3 years ago

So this just happened. Was in Smaug multi ball and after a while all but one of the balls had disappeared. I couldn't find them though. Hit the final ball on the left loop and it disappears too!

After about five ball searches and some nudging they set themselves free!

IMG_0513 (resized).JPG

#2499 3 years ago
Quoted from Ransom99:

Small update. I've popped the playfield back to check my mech wires. The adjustments seems to be staying in place, thumbs up. My right wire track has only trapped my ball once out of maybe... 10 times. The noise I'm still trying to pinpoint. I've gone so far as to unplug the speaker and sub cables but the sound is still there. Irritating.
ยป YouTube video
Maybe someone else has this going on?

mine has this same issue since day one. Frank and vince said possibly a bad audio cable but i haven't had time to track it down.

#2500 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

No idea.
A Pinsider ( and I'm sorry I forgot who, to give credit to ) came up with the fix in the picture.
LTG : )

That was me.

Originally I didn't put the washers into stop it hitting the wire. In my machine my beasts were becoming wedged in the up position because of the beast fix plastics I put in. The washer stops both the wedging AND potential cutting of the wire.

Someone later mentioned that they noticed some nicks in their cables and when I went to go recheck I found I had marks in my wires also so I took that picture to show how it was now impossible on mine.

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