(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

4 years ago



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There are 8394 posts in this topic. You are on page 47 of 168.
#2301 3 years ago

Is it true that jersey jack is finished with the hobbit pin now and there not coming more updates ?

#2302 3 years ago
Quoted from TouchingEvil:

Is it true that jersey jack is finished with the hobbit pin now and there not coming more updates ?

Version 1.9 should be feature-complete, containing all modes and such (according to Jack during Dialed In presentation). I do hope there will be a final wizard mode besides the three Arkenstone modes, but this has not yet been confirmed.

There will probably be fixes and balance changes where necessary. Maybe they will also provide updated images (the operating system and software package) when the operating system etc updates.

I do hope they will update TH with new features like they did with WoZ. For example, the Twitter integration was also made available for WoZ after the game was already made feature-complete.

Some things I hope to see in their software is support for slam-tilt, mods and better debug features. For example, a better debug mode for the Smaug jaw motor.

#2303 3 years ago
Quoted from TouchingEvil:

Is it true that jersey jack is finished with the hobbit pin now and there not coming more updates ?

Like jrcw stated, it appears that the game is feature complete (although it was said several times there would be some sort of final wizard mode which does not appear to be in the game as of now).

With Wizard of Oz, Jack announced the code was complete at version 2.0, but the game continued to get added features, tweaks, rules, etc, and that game now sits at code version 6.06 (if you look at the change log between 2.0 and 6.06 a lot was done). While there are no guarantees, we can only hope The Hobbit gets the same type of continuing love beyond the "final" code. Keith Johnson is the man, so I imagine he will continue to work on the code until he feels it is as great as it can be (and as long as JJP will let him).

#2304 3 years ago

I just played a pretty good game on 1.9 code 2.9 million.
The game felt more polished. Much better light effects but still lacking in meaningful call-outs in key areas.
Its not that the call outs were not there, they were. But they could be more helpful, especially during mutiballs where you cant really look at the screen much, big or small.

But again it felt way more polished, more refined. Its coming along very nicely.

I love this game!

The battle of the 5 armies is not finished at all, but its there, and in its infancy still a lot of fun, black mini screen and all.

As for something to add to the game code-wise, Please (if you are listening Keith or Jack) slam down the main ramp loop-back during beast frenzy.
This would make the frenzy much more frenzied, and increase the speed of the ball to actually back-stab more prolifically.
People will love it. When the ball has to return via the ramp over and over again, the mode loses any momentum and is hardly a frenzy. It should be more like a close quarters chaotic melee, instead of a target shoot.

The bonuses and bonus multipliers, in this 1.9 code, are amazing! Getting a 500,000 point bonus has a great feeling of accomplishment and I can see million point bonuses on a very good ball!

Again, I love this game and cant wait for new amazing things in future updates.

Thank you so much JJP and Team for allowing us to take this incredible journey through middle earth. The game feels very much like the movie trilogy.

#2305 3 years ago

Is there any fix for the air-ball that rests on Smaug's shoulder next to the ramp?
Ball search will never return it.

Should I drill in a bumper or install a plastic to cover this area?

It happens frequently enough that its got to be a location game game nightmare...

Maybe drill in a tiny post that when Smaug moves it will dislodge the ball?

#2306 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Is there any fix for the air-ball that rests on Smaug's shoulder next to the ramp?
Ball search will never return it.
Should I drill in a bumper or install a plastic to cover this area?
It happens frequently enough that its got to be a location game game nightmare...
Maybe drill in a tiny post that when Smaug moves it will dislodge the ball?

How does the ball get up there? It's never happened to me.

#2307 3 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

How does the ball get up there? It's never happened to me.

Pinball is much like baseball.
The greater the velocity of a ball coming toward you as you hit it with the bat, the farther it will travel on a solid hit.

During a multiball for example, some balls will travel slowly and others will be very fast. If you solidly hit a fast moving ball it can deflect of of just about anything and end up in surprising places.

I have had balls bounce off of the backboard or end up on the wire-forms, on many different games.
I have even had balls end up in the lower cabinet on a couple of my games. Basically an out of the park home-run

Check out one of the stuck ball threads to see amazing places a ball can end up.

#2308 3 years ago

I got my Hobbit LE today, so I am joining the club. The only grif I have is that the drop targets are very very loud in my machine, but it looks to be typical.

#2309 3 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I got my Hobbit LE today, so I am joining the club. The only grif I have is that the drop targets are very very loud in my machine, but it looks to be typical.

You'll only notice that for the first couple of months

#2310 3 years ago

Smaug needs to have more to say.

#2311 3 years ago

Any one else have problems getting the ball stuck behind the "D" target in front of the Balin hole?

#2312 3 years ago

If the W is down and you lob a ball towards the balin hole it *can* just sit there until a ball search. Fairly rare though.

I have noticed a couple of small graphical glitches.

During one of the smeogle modes (can't recall which perhaps "one ring"?) the left side of the main display has a shaded area where as the right side does not. I've seen this in a couple of other modes also.

#2313 3 years ago

What are your thoughts on adding an external sub? I remember I read somewhere that people have added them in.

#2314 3 years ago
Quoted from yonizzell:

Any one else have problems getting the ball stuck behind the "D" target in front of the Balin hole?

Adjust the drop target so that its perfectly flush with the playfield surface.
Adjust the playfield pitch to 7 degrees.

This should keep low inertia shots from hanging on the drop target.

#2315 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Adjust the drop target so that its perfectly flush with the playfield surface.
Adjust the playfield pitch to 7 degrees.
This should keep low inertia shots from hanging on the drop target.

That's probably a good idea - I have my pitch set at 6.5°.

#2316 3 years ago

A number of folks have reported scratching mirrorblades when raising or lowering their playfields. Technically mirrorblades are highly polished die cut thin sheets of stainless steel that affix to the inside walls of the lower cabinet. Sometimes folks chose artwork printed on self-adhesive vinyl. Either one is subject to scratching. I thought I would present my approach to counteract this situation. I purchased 1/2" self-adhesive strips of hook and loop tape. The commercial name is velcro. We only need the loop portion. I needed a bulk amount to do a number of games. The best price I found was from Hong Kong on eBay. I wrapped around a small portion (1-1/4") at the top and bottom and stapled it to add stability. Cheers.

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#2317 3 years ago

I was working on my Lord of the Rings and Hobbit LE. This makes an interesting photo. I love both games. I find both to be deep and engrossing. Every time I lift the Hobbit playfield I have to ensure I set myself up for the weight.

IMG_6793 (resized).jpg

#2318 3 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I got my Hobbit LE today, so I am joining the club. The only grif I have is that the drop targets are very very loud in my machine, but it looks to be typical.

I hear ya I just got mine on Thursday played it quite a bit yesterday and I thought something was wrong they were so loud.. :/
So I guess this is the norm.

#2319 3 years ago
Quoted from bellbrand:

I hear ya I just got mine on Thursday played it quite a bit yesterday and I thought something was wrong they were so loud.. :/
So I guess this is the norm.

Thought the same when we first fired ours up this week. Noticing it less now that we know it is what it is...

#2320 3 years ago
Quoted from Zaquar:

Thought the same when we first fired ours up this week. Noticing it less now that we know it is what it is...

They add to the excitement!

I'm wondering if anyone has tried putting sound deadening foam inside the cabinet to see how it would affect the noise?

#2321 3 years ago

So my Goblin pop-up just stopped working. Worked fine last game, about 30 mins later played another and it won't raise up.

Entered the pop-up tests and it will attempt to lift but seems either stuck or not getting enough power. After a few tries it reports back that the mech is broken.

Examined the mech underneath and didn't see any loose wires or anything that looked wrong.

The ball-stuck preventers are installed on these.

Any ideas where to start? I'm going back to examine closely to see if anything is out of allignment causing the mech to get stuck.

Thanks for any help!

#2322 3 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Any ideas where to start?

Be sure nothing is binding it - push up and down by hand.

Then the locknut at the bottom of the mech - loosen it and turn the rubber stopper above it up a few turns, tighten and retry.

LTG : )

#2323 3 years ago

So I just unboxed my SE and played a few games. Noted a few things....

Mine is made 1 month after my buddies and mine doesn't have the plastic ball stuck pieces installed on the pop-ups. ( his does ) The gaps look fairly tight, so I don't see it being an issue. Maybe they adjusted/moved the whole mech's forward to prevent stuck balls?

Also, my game is signed on the translite in gold sharpie by Jersey Jack, which is kinda odd, I think. Anyone else get one like this?

Update, Ive had 5 stuck balls in 12 games, guess it needs some adjustment.

#2324 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Be sure nothing is binding it - push up and down by hand.
Then the locknut at the bottom of the mech - loosen it and turn the rubber stopper above it up a few turns, tighten and retry.
LTG : )

Thanks for the quick reply LTG! I pulled the mech up from the top and it seemed to clear whatever it was hanging on. Goblins are back on the menu!

#2325 3 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

So my Goblin pop-up just stopped working. Worked fine last game, about 30 mins later played another and it won't raise up.
Entered the pop-up tests and it will attempt to lift but seems either stuck or not getting enough power. After a few tries it reports back that the mech is broken.
Examined the mech underneath and didn't see any loose wires or anything that looked wrong.
The ball-stuck preventers are installed on these.
Any ideas where to start? I'm going back to examine closely to see if anything is out of allignment causing the mech to get stuck.
Thanks for any help!

It's hard to see but check really closely that the mech hasn't pinched through the wires against the ball stuck preventers. It happened to me and others.

#2326 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

It's hard to see but check really closely that the mech hasn't pinched through the wires against the ball stuck preventers. It happened to me and others.

Yeah I had read about those problems and gave each mech a good looking over when I unboxed the machine. I moved one of the connectors that looked like it might get in the way. So much going underneath this game!

#2327 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Also, my game is signed on the translite in gold sharpie by Jersey Jack,

My game is also signed on the translight and the back box. Jack said he randomly signs while walking though the factory.

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

#2328 3 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

My game is also signed on the translight and the back box. Jack said he randomly signs while walking though the factory.

The back box, sure. The translight, not a huge fan. Think I'll be removing it. Personal opinion I guess.

#2329 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

The back box, sure. The translight, not a huge fan. Think I'll be removing it. Personal opinion I guess.

I wonder if its super rare for the sig to be on the trans?

Alcohol spray will remove it in a heartbeat if you find it an issue.

#2330 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Also, my game is signed on the translite in gold sharpie by Jersey Jack, which is kinda odd, I think. Anyone else get one like this?

Yes, mine has the signature as well. I think its nice 20k by Christmas!!

#2331 3 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

They add to the excitement!
I'm wondering if anyone has tried putting sound deadening foam inside the cabinet to see how it would affect the noise?

May not do much. My TSPP is stuffed with foam as I got tired of clickity-clack of all five flippers. Unfortunately the PF itself acts like a sound board and resonates the sound upward so the results were not nearly as dramatic as I had hoped.

It HAS provided some unintended comic relief though. I forget I did the foam job on it so every time I open the coin door I stare inside slack jawed for a moment thinking "wtf IS all this stuff?"

#2332 3 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

I'm wondering if anyone has tried putting sound deadening foam inside the cabinet to see how it would affect the noise?

Was your first car a junker? What did you do for that? Turn up the sound and all those little noises go away! Then you wont hear the ratcheting.
Just joking.

#2333 3 years ago
Quoted from Zaquar:

Thought the same when we first fired ours up this week. Noticing it less now that we know it is what it is...

Loving the game otherwise. It is so different they anything I own or have owned. Refreshing!!

#2334 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

The back box, sure. The translight, not a huge fan. Think I'll be removing it. Personal opinion I guess.

it is rare as Jack only randomly signs them. you may want to offer trading translights with some one who would appreciate the signature.
on second thought get that alcohol spray, make less signatures available .

#2335 3 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

on second thought get that alcohol spray, make less signatures available .

Lol. Good thinking!

I'm more concerned, interested, in why my pop ups don't have the inserts. Seems odd that my machine was made weeks after my buddies and his had them.

It hasn't been an issue, just wondering if I should/need to order them, or if they moved the mech's up to eliminate the problem?

#2336 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Lol. Good thinking!
I'm more concerned, interested, in why my pop ups don't have the inserts. Seems odd that my machine was made weeks after my buddies and his had them.
It hasn't been an issue, just wondering if I should/need to order them, or if they moved the mech's up to eliminate the problem?

Order the inserts, they are free.
Its a good fix.
Do you have the upgraded left wireform?
What color are your ramp flaps? It would be good to know that they are the current ones.

#2337 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Order the inserts, they are free.
Its a good fix.
Do you have the upgraded left wireform?
What color are your ramp flaps? It would be good to know that they are the current ones.

I will if I need them, I'm just confused why a game made a month after one with them installed, would not have them?

Yes, updated left wire form. Ramp flaps are dark blue/blackish. Is that the new style?

#2338 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

I will if I need them, I'm just confused why a game made a month after one with them installed, would not have them?
Yes, updated left wire form. Ramp flaps are dark blue/blackish. Is that the new style?

Edit: helps to read properly. Mine is 18 days before his, not after. Guess I'll order the kit.

#2339 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Guess I'll order the kit.

yes do ! the pop up fix looks good lit up! and the dark flaps are spring steel the shinny ones are stainless.

#2340 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I agree. Most likely every machine if the wires are held by the same method.
In looking at my mech's again while I was doing the flap fix I noticed that every single one of them had a degree of cuts through the wire insulation (red box in the pic below).

I had actually stopped it from occurring accidentally some time ago by using a metal washer to stop the mech from becoming jammed due to the other beast fix.
By adding the washer it actually makes a gap into which the wire has somewhere to safely sit.
Pic below has the mech in the fully up position (green box) showing how the washer creates the gap (red box).

My game has a build date of 10/7/16 so I think all the latest mods are installed. One of the beasts stopped registering today and sure enough the switch wires are cut clean through. Has anyone placed a ticket for this yet? I sure don't like the idea of having to remove a substantial piece of hardware to fix it but I don't see any other way. I only have maybe 15 games played so far.

#2341 3 years ago
Quoted from BShing:

I sure don't like the idea of having to remove a substantial piece of hardware to fix it but I don't see any other way.

Two connectors, five screws. Reroute the wires and then repair them.

LTG : )

#2342 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

The back box, sure. The translight, not a huge fan. Think I'll be removing it. Personal opinion I guess.

Yea it's ugly on the Translite.

#2343 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Two connectors, five screws. Reroute the wires and then repair them.
LTG : )

All set. Soldered, heat shrink added and washer as a shim on the corner.

#2344 3 years ago

On a Smaug LE where is the game number located on the machine?

#2345 3 years ago
Quoted from Zaquar:

On a Smaug LE where is the game number located on the machine?

Should be on the back of the machine. Or right inside the coin door on the left side of the cabinet above the shaker motor.

LTG : )

#2346 3 years ago

BShing can you provide a pic?

#2347 3 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

So my Goblin pop-up just stopped working. Worked fine last game, about 30 mins later played another and it won't raise up.
Entered the pop-up tests and it will attempt to lift but seems either stuck or not getting enough power. After a few tries it reports back that the mech is broken.
Examined the mech underneath and didn't see any loose wires or anything that looked wrong.
The ball-stuck preventers are installed on these.
Any ideas where to start? I'm going back to examine closely to see if anything is out of allignment causing the mech to get stuck.
Thanks for any help!

Sometimes certain beasts will bend forward a bit, due to the ball hitting them in the back (backstab) and working them forward a bit. Since the game is at a 6.5-7* pitch, the beasts will also have their weight shifted forward as well. When they get a bit bent out of shape, they get hung up a little. Simple two second fix.. raise them up by hand or using the menu, and just bend/push them back a bit toward the rear of the playfield. They'll work perfect after that.. don't even need to lift the playfield.

#2348 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Should be on the back of the machine. Or right inside the coin door on the left side of the cabinet above the shaker motor.
LTG : )

Thank - I see the s/n stickers there but not the LE #?

#2349 3 years ago

I am still waiting for my Smaug LE that I ordered well over a year ago. I will never order direct from JJ again as I could of got one from a distributor that has them in stock a while ago. And I hear they are making the black arrows now FBS! JJ should fulfill customers orders that have paid in full. When I emailed them I didn't even get a solid answer to when I will receive my game. "Just the game will be on the next list submitted to production" "I will let you know when your game is closer to shipping" Nice just keep using my money to develop lame games like dialed in that makes me cringe. Regardless to how well it plays the art looks terrible and would devalue my lineup on its sheer presence.

#2350 3 years ago
Quoted from Zaquar:

Thank - I see the s/n stickers there but not the LE #?

LE number is on the apron. Left corner.

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