(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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There are 7703 posts in this topic. You are on page 45 of 155.
#2201 3 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

I'm waiting for this...
Because of this...

Where did you see 1.9P? At Expo?

#2202 3 years ago
Quoted from brucipher:

Where did you see 1.9P? At Expo?

No, on Llyods page.

#2203 3 years ago

Final Hobbit code released tonight?! Jack just said it at Expo

#2204 3 years ago

Pinball got stuck in a pop up. I thought the ball search would free it. It didn't. I thought when I took the ball out, it would drop. It didn't.

I took out the pop up. The "orc" (or whatever it is) does not move freely up and down. I thought maybe the ball got the mechanism out of alignment. After playing around for a while, the issue seems to be that the coil will not move smoothly on the shaft. The first picture (since they are in reverse) shows the coil just sitting at the top. It should have freely fallen down. The shaft looks good and straight. No burr at the end. The shaft looks okay. Any suggestions?

The plastic sleeve will not come out of the coil. I hope the coil did not fry and melt it in....

(Note the background live streaming of the Expo event with Pat Lawlor.... I thought I'd play a quick game and then watch the Expo....)

Thanks
Michael

IMG_6653 (resized).jpg
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#2205 3 years ago

Well, here's one thing that is surprising. There's a new Hobbit SE called the "Black Arrow" SE. Yeah it has different cabinet artwork and armor (kinda like WOZ 75th) but the big change may be with hardware. Pat Lawlor showed a Hobbit cabinet that is using the new JJP platform. The new platform houses all hardware in the backbox, the display swings out and there's upgraded speakers. I'm thinking the new Hobbit "Black Arrow" SE will have all of the new hardware in it...

#2206 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

Pinball got stuck in a pop up. I thought the ball search would free it. It didn't. I thought when I took the ball out, it would drop. It didn't.
I took out the pop up. The "orc" (or whatever it is) does not move freely up and down. I thought maybe the ball got the mechanism out of alignment. After playing around for a while, the issue seems to be that the coil will not move smoothly on the shaft. The first picture (since they are in reverse) shows the coil just sitting at the top. It should have freely fallen down. The shaft looks good and straight. No burr at the end. The shaft looks okay. Any suggestions?
The plastic sleeve will not come out of the coil. I hope the coil did not fry and melt it in....
(Note the background live streaming of the Expo event with Pat Lawlor.... I thought I'd play a quick game and then watch the Expo....)
Thanks
Michael

Looks like a fried coil. The wrapper looks like it overheated.

#2207 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Well, here's one thing that is surprising. There's a new Hobbit SE called the "Black Arrow" SE. Yeah it has different cabinet artwork and armor (kinda like WOZ 75th) but the big change may be with hardware. Pat Lawlor showed a Hobbit cabinet that is using the new JJP platform. The new platform houses all hardware in the backbox, the display swings out and there's upgraded speakers. I'm thinking the new Hobbit "Black Arrow" SE will have all of the new hardware in it...

Spec pages says nothing about it having the new platform. From what is in the base of the existing hobbits I wouldn't have though it would all fit in the head. I'd hazard a guess and say it doesn't seeing that the dialed in sheet says it specifically.

#2208 3 years ago

Never mind

#2209 3 years ago

My ramp kit is on order. yay!

I've noticed that the downloads page and support has disappeared off the jjp web site.

#2210 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Spec pages says nothing about it having the new platform. From what is in the base of the existing hobbits I wouldn't have though it would all fit in the head. I'd hazard a guess and say it doesn't seeing that the dialed in sheet says it specifically.

Ah ok, yup. I see that now too.

Quoted from koops:

My ramp kit is on order. yay!
I've noticed that the downloads page and support has disappeared off the jjp web site.

Seems like the regular site went down last night and that it is now doing a redirect. Hopefully its back up soon along with the latest Hobbit code update.

#2211 3 years ago

thanks pinballinreno. I can't quote your comments about my pop up through my iPhone.

I was afraid of that. I sent the pictures and explanation to frank. I hope the transistor is not also fried. Well, i owned the game since October 1. If this happens every 12 days or so I'll be going through a lot of coils

I hope the software can protect this situation unless it is just a fluke.

Michael

#2212 3 years ago

JJP website is still showing 1.31 as the latest update on their site. Hopefully the new code gets posted soon.

#2213 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

thanks pinballinreno. I can't quote your comments about my pop up through my iPhone.
I was afraid of that. I sent the pictures and explanation to frank. I hope the transistor is not also fried. Well, i owned the game since October 1. If this happens every 12 days or so I'll be going through a lot of coils
I hope the software can protect this situation unless it is just a fluke.
Michael

I just spoke to Frank at JJP and they will handle this. As usual, Frank is great and great service from JJP. After just 13 days, I will have Hobbit withdrawal until the new parts come.

I ordered some extra coils in case this happens again.

Michael

#2214 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

JJP website is still showing 1.31 as the latest update on their site. Hopefully the new code gets posted soon.

Was suppose to hit last night, I've been waiting for it.

#2215 3 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

Was suppose to hit last night, I've been waiting for it.

Just another missed commitment date!

#2216 3 years ago

According to Jack the latest Hobbit code should be released tonight. If this is the final code (well, bug fixes + additions later on as Jack said last night) I guess that means Battle of the Five Armies and the games main wizard mode will be in this release.

#2217 3 years ago

I don't see it. Hmm

#2218 3 years ago

Any chance anyone could record the "Multiball" and "Jackpot" callouts from Hobbit and send them to me? Absolutely love the callouts!

#2219 3 years ago

Just joined the Hobbit club!! Just had my used one delivered the other day and set up last night. Loving it.

Is the new code up yet?

#2220 3 years ago

I photographed the steps to add the Cliffy protectors and mylar on the two holes and the trough if you need for reference:

http://purcellvillepinball.com/HobbitLE2016.html#Cliffy

Michael

#2221 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I photographed the steps to add the Cliffy protectors and mylar on the two holes and the trough if you need for reference:
http://purcellvillepinball.com/HobbitLE2016.html#Cliffy
Michael

Nice! Perhaps cliffy can add a link to your page. That balin hole was pain to do. Even worse when you have a playfield protector.

I felt the switch protectors were superfluous as the balls drop much higher and not directly onto the edge of the switch (unlike other pins).

#2222 3 years ago

Sounds like their site was hacked (pure speculation). Site was down and barely moving on Fri evening and now again Sunday evening. Orders must be rolling in.

Probably just cleaning up afterwards with a skeleton crew. I expect they will be able to post files on Mon. Maybe we'll find out the reason then too.

#2223 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I photographed the steps to add the Cliffy protectors and mylar on the two holes and the trough if you need for reference:
http://purcellvillepinball.com/HobbitLE2016.html#Cliffy
Michael

Great job! Thank you very much for putting that together. I still need to order the Cliffy set and will do so soon.

#2224 3 years ago
Quoted from lukewells:

1) Coils melting
There is clearly a bug with the pop-ups. If the switch triggers multiple times (because the "troll" target switches a little shoddy and vibrate back and forth quickly, even after multiple attempts to adjust them) then it keeps pulsing the power to the coils (so it seems) Eventually the coil melts, it's hard to tell there is even anything wrong, until it’s too late and you have a pop-up error it won't go down anymore.
My Warg melted after 24 games, and my Orc melted after 125 games. There should be a safety timeout in the software at the very least to stop it melting coils.

Hi! Even though this post was posted two months ago (post #1332 p. 27) with V1.21 of the software, item #1 was what happened on my game. I also watched your video and recognized that the pattern may be that before my Warg popup fried, it started going up and immediately down. I made a note to fix it but thought it was just an annoyance rather than an item that should be addressed immediately. Maybe the switch constantly engaging since it needs to be adjusted is what is causing the popup coil to fry and should be a way to protect for this condition in code to stop this from happening. My Warg coil melted after 12 days which is probably right at the 24 game time or close.

I copied some of this post and forwarded it to Frank. I will call him tomorrow to reiterate this and hopefully he'll do a good job of getting this information to the right people.

Thanks
Michael

#2225 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

Hi! Even though this post was posted two months ago (post #1332 p. 27) with V1.21 of the software, item #1 was what happened on my game. I also watched your video and recognized that the pattern may be that before my Warg popup fried, it started going up and immediately down. I made a note to fix it but thought it was just an annoyance rather than an item that should be addressed immediately. Maybe the switch constantly engaging since it needs to be adjusted is what is causing the popup coil to fry and should be a way to protect for this condition in code to stop this from happening. My Warg coil melted after 12 days which is probably right at the 24 game time or close.
I copied some of this post and forwarded it to Frank. I will call him tomorrow to reiterate this and hopefully he'll do a good job of getting this information to the right people.
Thanks
Michael

Interestingly, I had the pop-up target coil in my WoZ melt down in the first week when it tried to pop back up during a multiball, and wedged another ball in-between the top of the target and the plastic above it. I have to wonder if there is something in common code-wise that could/should be addressed for both systems here to prevent this kind of thing.

#2226 3 years ago

Hey all,
My hobbit has two dwarf drops that
Won't reset up! I briefly looked at wiring, etc to make sure it wasn't something easy. I'm not quite sure where to start. It will pop them down. But can't go back up

#2227 3 years ago

Hobbit Easy Ramp Fix

For those who have stainless Steel Ramp flaps curling up.

Simply
remove the 4 screws holding the ramp down near the flaps
lift the ramp up about 1/2"
use a small piece of round dowell and using you thumb curve the flap back down over the round dowell.

Then insert under the ramp flaps a small piece of doublesided tape with the sticky bit up, non sticky down, pushed back far enough under the flap, screw back down and it only took 5-10 mins to do.

let me know how you go

#2228 3 years ago

^^^^^^^ I thought double-sided tape meant that it has sticky adhesive on both sides. What exactly are you trying to say?

#2229 3 years ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

Hobbit Easy Ramp Fix
For those who have stainless Steel Ramp flaps curling up.
Simply
remove the 4 screws holding the ramp down near the flaps
lift the ramp up about 1/2"
use a small piece of round dowell and using you thumb curve the flap back down over the round dowell.
Then insert under the ramp flaps a small piece of doublesided tape with the sticky bit up, non sticky down, pushed back far enough under the flap, screw back down and it only took 5-10 mins to do.
let me know how you go

I have bent my flaps so many times they are cracking.
I ordered the ramp fix (new different flps) from frank at JJP, the new flaps are a much more aggressive material and seem to fix the problem.

#2230 3 years ago

New code is up!

#2231 3 years ago

My goblin return lane wireform sometimes stays up, and when it does the ball gets stuck there. Spoke to very nice guy who does service for dealer, and he said to "bend it down a little." I can barely figure out how to "get in there" let alone bend it, and don't want to make it worse. Anybody else had this issue?

#2232 3 years ago

Played a few games on 1.9 and wow does this game just keep getting better and better. The bonus system really helps with giving players a rewarding feeling for completing modes. I may have noticed a few more callouts too. I didn't get close to playing Battle of the Five Armies but I did reach Into the Fire again (such a cool mode).

I hope we get more callouts added to the game, I heard from others that David Thiel said 120 Smaug callouts are supposed to be in the game. With Smaug being the main toy in the game he only really talks during Smaug multiball and at the end of the game. It would be great to hear Smaug in some of the book modes (there's a few that relate directly to him). Also, a Riddle or Burgler multiball would be great with lines from Bilbo and Smaug when they first meet (some of the best scenes in the trilogy).

#2233 3 years ago

Yes, the additional bonus scoring is nice. Finally feel like it's worth doing better during the modes. There are definitely some new sound effects and music too. Maybe a new call out or two (I've only played 1 game), but I too hope that more is coming in that regard.

#2234 3 years ago

Here is an interesting fix that may help others:

The top right EOS switch is not registering in dedicated switch test.

The Black Black wire shared between the 3 flipper EOS switches has connectivity between them.

The Black Red wire on the top right flipper EOS which goes to J601-5 and through the pass through connector J17-4 has connectivity to both connectors.

The EOS switch physically closes correctly and provides connectivity.

I reseated both connectors.

This sounds like an I/O Board issue. To be sure, I shorted J601-1 (black black ground wire) to J601-5 (Top Right Flipper EOS) and it did not register in dedicated switch test. I shorted J601-1 to J601-7 (Left flipper EOS) and it did register, just to ensure the paper clip was working.

I'll add more info when JJP sends a new I/O Driver board. I spoke with Frank today (10/11/2016) and they will send a new I/O Board.

10/18/2016 Update:

I replaced the I/O Driver board. It took 45 minutes and a pain in the neck since you have to raise and lower the play field to get to the front and back.

It did not solve the EOS switch problem on the top flipper. So I shorted the pins and this time it did work. Hmmmm. I realized what I did. I pushed the paper clip into the metal area of the connector and pushed the connector to the left or away from the board. I guess I was gentler when I did it before.

The EOS switch registered then it didn’t. I checked each pin and it was in correctly. I then stood on the left side of the cabinet and bent the connector towards me and tested the flipper and the switch worked. Then I left go and it didn’t. So I gently bent it more to the left side of the cabinet (or towards me as I was standing) and it is now at a slight angle and appears to work.

Therefore, it was probably not the I/O board although I got practice replacing it.

Thanks
Michael

#2235 3 years ago

Frank also sent me a new Warg pop up assembly (although he could have sent the coil and I could have replaced it). I put it back in and it works fine for the moment.

You all may want to consider buying extra FL-11753 Flipper Coil Lugless. Their part number is 23-002004-01. They are $29.99 each and come with the connector so it is just plug and play if your coil for a pop up fries. You also need to order (or they may assume and provide) 30-000014-42-1 which is a 2-5/8" Coil Tubing, Flanged. Yes, a bit pricier than a plain FL-11753 coil but it is configured correctly for convenience.

Thanks
Michael

#2236 3 years ago

Another great update! Battle of the Five Armies is awesome and challenging. Game is very multiball heavy and ball times are long after earning extra balls. I had to stop after ball 1 (including 5 extra balls) of 5.7 million because it took an hour.

Wishlist: Arkenstone modes save progress, pause game feature

Modes are very important now as is end of ball bonus. Great work by Keith and the team!

#2237 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballer0415:

Another great update! Battle of the Five Armies is awesome and challenging. Game is very multiball heavy and ball times are long after earning extra balls. I had to stop after ball 1 (including 5 extra balls) of 5.7 million because it took an hour.

Ugh, I love this pin, but I may have to sell it. Whenever I play I have to make sure that I have at least an hour free, which is rare. There's been too many times that I've had to turn it off mid game because of long game times.

#2238 3 years ago
Quoted from fordtudoor:

^^^^^^^ I thought double-sided tape meant that it has sticky adhesive on both sides. What exactly are you trying to say?

When you buy it on a roll it has plastic on one side

#2239 3 years ago

Does anyone have step by step instructions on how to get the newest delta update transferred from a MAC to a thumb drive then to the pinball machine? The directions on the JJP website don't match anything I'm seeing on my MAC and seem to only apply to windows. For instance, I don't see any way to "extract" the zip file once it is loaded onto the USB. Been trying since yesterday to download the update and am getting nowhere.

#2240 3 years ago

Download StuffIt Expander. It will unzip the file.

#2241 3 years ago
Quoted from tb2767:

Does anyone have step by step instructions on how to get the newest delta update transferred from a MAC to a thumb drive then to the pinball machine? The directions on the JJP website don't match anything I'm seeing on my MAC and seem to only apply to windows. For instance, I don't see any way to "extract" the zip file once it is loaded onto the USB. Been trying since yesterday to download the update and am getting nowhere.

I just updated to 1.9 using my mac. The file was extracted at the end of the download. A directory named

hobbit_update

was in my Downloads directory.

I took every thing off my USB card (color dmd updates) and copied this directory there. It took a few minutes since it is about 1.49 GB.

I ejected the USB and pulled it out.

I put it into the USB on the pinball and went to the appropriate menu and it did everything by itself.

Email with your phone if you need any help with a Mac.

Thanks
Michael

#2242 3 years ago

I just updated to 1.9. I just changed my number of balls back from 5 to 3.

I played the first game and got a ball stuck above the upper flipper resting on the light. Is there a fix for this?

I finally realized I could probably turn off the high score per day. While moving down the menu, I also realized I can change the high score initials from 3 to 11.

For "Multiple Initials/Player" the comment has a typo in initials ("initlials"). Do you think this calls for a new update?

Michael

IMG_6750 (resized).jpg
IMG_6749 (resized).jpg

#2243 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I just updated to 1.9 using my mac. The file was extracted at the end of the download. A directory named
hobbit_update
was in my Downloads directory.
I took every thing off my USB card (color dmd updates) and copied this directory there. It took a few minutes since it is about 1.49 GB.
I ejected the USB and pulled it out.
I put it into the USB on the pinball and went to the appropriate menu and it did everything by itself.
Email with your phone if you need any help with a Mac.
Thanks
Michael

Thanks so much

#2244 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I just updated to 1.9. I just changed my number of balls back from 5 to 3.
I played the first game and got a ball stuck above the upper flipper resting on the light. Is there a fix for this?
I finally realized I could probably turn off the high score per day. While moving down the menu, I also realized I can change the high score initials from 3 to 11.
For "Multiple Initials/Player" the comment has a typo in initials ("initlials"). Do you think this calls for a new update?
Michael

Wax the playfield with a super thin coating of P21S (silver can) and wipe down the wireforms with the towel you used to wipe off the wax.
The game is so fast you will find balls in amazing places that you would never think they could go.

Fortunately this condition only lasts a few games...

#2245 3 years ago
Quoted from BillySastard:

Ugh, I love this pin, but I may have to sell it. Whenever I play I have to make sure that I have at least an hour free, which is rare. There's been too many times that I've had to turn it off mid game because of long game times.

Goto the settings and crank everything up?

#2246 3 years ago

I made some partial "povcals" the other night. Made to protect the machine until its in a safer location (~ 6 months).

I used a large piece of lexan film (0.25mm).

Didn't cover the entire side, if I find that I need to I have some left over lexan that I can use. Wouldn't take more than 30 mins to make the side ones. The front/side one took probably 3 hours.

test fit

final cutout

3 (resized).jpg

4 (resized).jpg

installed left side view

installed front view

installed right side view

#2247 3 years ago

For anyone that did the flap kit themselves, which rivets did you use?

The solid or regular ones?

I'm considering the solid ones but i've only ever used the standard ones before. Are they hard to do? I've googled solid rivets and seen how they do them so it looks like it is potentially within my ability. They also seem to give the best finish so i'd prefer to use these.

Shipping the ramp back to jjp would take a minimum of a 2 week turn around assuming they do them within a day so I don't really want to do that.

I might get a few from the local hardware place and see how hard they are to do. If I can't do it then I do have a local sheet metal place that I might be able to get them to do it for me.

#2248 3 years ago

Its super easy:

Just get a 1/8" semi-tubular rivet die and lightly hammer them in

#2249 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its super easy:
» YouTube video
Just get a 1/8" semi-tubular rivet die and lightly hammer them in

Awesome thanks!!!!

#2250 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its super easy:
» YouTube video
Just get a 1/8" semi-tubular rivet die and lightly hammer them in

Just chiming in here with a link to purchase (I'm not affiliated with any sellers).
Thanks for the advice, reno!
http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

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