(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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#2101 3 years ago

Hey guys, not an owner yet but I'm really happy with my Woz and have become more interested in TH recently. I've had a chance to play it a few times at shows but with York coming up, I was hoping you guys can help me out. In order to get a good feel for any game, I have to have a basic understanding of the rules and employ some sort of strategy. Now, I've watched a ton of video on it and of course there is far more code than I'll ever get to see at a show. However, I was hoping some of you guys could give me a super basic strategy in order to see what TH has to offer in a very limited time frame at the upcoming York show. I guess I'm asking for the "guest" strategies, as in whatever you would tell a friend to do if he stepped up to the game. Any advice would be appreciated!

#2102 3 years ago

Shoot the ramps, beasts and drop downs

Watch the little screen for what you currently
need to do. Watch the big screen for your general status.

#2103 3 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Hey guys, not an owner yet but I'm really happy with my Woz and have become more interested in TH recently. I've had a chance to play it a few times at shows but with York coming up, I was hoping you guys can help me out. In order to get a good feel for any game, I have to have a basic understanding of the rules and employ some sort of strategy. Now, I've watched a ton of video on it and of course there is far more code than I'll ever get to see at a show. However, I was hoping some of you guys could give me a super basic strategy in order to see what TH has to offer in a very limited time frame at the upcoming York show. I guess I'm asking for the "guest" strategies, as in whatever you would tell a friend to do if he stepped up to the game. Any advice would be appreciated!

https://images.pinside.com/8/79/08/879082bb3784112202e479a06ed37c010ddd4c01.pdf

#2104 3 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Hey guys, not an owner yet but I'm really happy with my Woz and have become more interested in TH recently. I've had a chance to play it a few times at shows but with York coming up, I was hoping you guys can help me out. In order to get a good feel for any game, I have to have a basic understanding of the rules and employ some sort of strategy. Now, I've watched a ton of video on it and of course there is far more code than I'll ever get to see at a show. However, I was hoping some of you guys could give me a super basic strategy in order to see what TH has to offer in a very limited time frame at the upcoming York show. I guess I'm asking for the "guest" strategies, as in whatever you would tell a friend to do if he stepped up to the game. Any advice would be appreciated!

The goal at the moment is to get into arkenstone modes. There are 2. Will be 3 soon.

I posted this video a couple of days ago but here it is again. I think it's fun Aiming to complete these 5 objectives ad it gives a good mix of what to shoot for

#2105 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Watch the little screen for what you currently
need to do.

Okay, that is something I wasn't doing at the last couple shows. In fact, at a few shows I think I even played it before that was an actual LCD. Thanks!

Lol thanks, do you hand the rule sheet to everyone that comes over to casually play it? I guess what I was looking for is advice like what I give to casual players that come over to my place i.e. Mist ball on Dracula, prison multi-ball on TWD, Monger on IM, castle on MM etc.

Quoted from FalconPunch:

The goal at the moment is to get into arkenstone modes. There are 2. Will be 3 soon.
I posted this video a couple of days ago but here it is again. I think it's fun Aiming to complete these 5 objectives ad it gives a good mix of what to shoot for
» YouTube video

Great advice, thanks! It seems similar to the 4 goals in Woz in order to get to the first wizard mode. Fantastic video by the way! You are right, it looks like that will give a pretty good mix of what TH has to offer. Much appreciated!

#2106 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes.
LTG : )

thank you sir.

I've got continuity from the plug J107-9 & J107-10 to the coil lugs themselves, and I have the same ohms between coil lugs as the other coils in the machine @~140. Can I assume the coil is fine or did I need to remove the coil from the machine to determine?

I think all thats left is the Q337 & Q338 which is out of my comfort zone to replace.

I did send an email to techsupport, still haven't gotten into the portal. I'll give them a call once everyone is up and around here.

#2107 3 years ago
Quoted from muttonboy:

thank you sir.
I've got continuity from the plug J107-9 & J107-10 to the coil lugs themselves, and I have the same ohms between coil lugs as the other coils in the machine @~140. Can I assume the coil is fine or did I need to remove the coil from the machine to determine?
I think all thats left is the Q337 & Q338 which is out of my comfort zone to replace.
I did send an email to techsupport, still haven't gotten into the portal. I'll give them a call once everyone is up and around here.

I'm good, Vic's on it.

#2108 3 years ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

Couple of new issues have reared their head on my Hobbit LE:
1. As others have reported, the strength in the plunger seemed to be getting weaker with use and so I was thinking about buying a stronger plunger spring. But now I am clearly detecting a lot of friction in the plunger itself and it is starting to feel like it is sticking as it is pulled out. Any ideas how to best lubricate a shooter lane plunger? Or is their a plastic insert that may need replacing in a similar style to those used inside coils?
2. After only a few hundred games my left slingshot rubber snapped - literally. Completely clean tear. Looking over the other slingshot rubber I can see that this has a small tear. I have no problem with replacing rubbers after a decent amount of use and wear and tear, but these slingshot rubbers are failing way too soon. Anyone else had similar issues?

Had the same issue with my left sling rubber. Luckily I had a spare kicking around.
Check for any sharp points that may be cutting into the rubber...

#2109 3 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

The goal at the moment is to get into arkenstone modes. There are 2. Will be 3 soon.
I posted this video a couple of days ago but here it is again. I think it's fun Aiming to complete these 5 objectives ad it gives a good mix of what to shoot for
» YouTube video

Just for clarification--you repeat this same process to qualify all three of the multiballs?

#2110 3 years ago

Hey everyone,
I got my game yesterday, finally, after 3 years of waiting. I have played it a few times but tried not to read much about the rules and everything as I want to discover it on my own. Man it is a blast. Best score last night was in the 225,000 range and I had a blast. I love the dwarf frenzy mode. That was one of my favorite scenes from the first movie, and although it isnt the same song it has the right feel to it.

I am having one problem that I am having some trouble tracing down. That problem is there is a phantom switch press happening, but it seems only when the skill shot is going on. When I am trying to do any of the skill shots I only get a short time to hit it before the phantom switch press happens I belive. For example, in the dwarf skill shot it will go through each of the letters once then it thinks that I hit a letter or something else and the skill shot will end. Sometimes it thinks I succeeded and gave me 9000 points before I even launch the ball. I'm not sure what is going on or really even how to narrow it down as to what exactly is happening. It seems to only happen in the skill shot mode, not during game play. It is really strange. Any ideas what to look for or test on? A thought I have is that the switch(if there is one) detecting the drop target is hit, may need to be adjusted. I'm not sure how the drop target detects its hits as I've never really had a game with drop targets.

Thanks for your help.

#2111 3 years ago
Quoted from fluffybunny:

I am having one problem that I am having some trouble tracing down. That problem is there is a phantom switch press happening, but it seems only when the skill shot is going on.

I had this same issue, and for me it was a rollover switch triggering itself. Not sure if that would stop the Dwarf target skill shot or not, but start a new game and see if it happens without shooting the ball, then check the playfield for what has already been hit to find it. This is not guaranteed to find it but its easy and has a good chance of locating it.

#2112 3 years ago

To find a phantom switch. Pull the glass but the game in switch mode and start banging on the PF with you hand to see what is registering.

#2113 3 years ago
Quoted from Cappi:

I had this same issue, and for me it was a rollover switch triggering itself. Not sure if that would stop the Dwarf target skill shot or not, but start a new game and see if it happens without shooting the ball, then check the playfield for what has already been hit to find it. This is not guaranteed to find it but its easy and has a good chance of locating it.

that seems to be the best way, is there a menu I can look at to see what switches has been pressed in the current game? I'm very new to the JJP menus and as awesome as they are they are a little overwhelming.

#2114 3 years ago
Quoted from fluffybunny:

is there a menu I can look at to see what switches has been pressed in the current game?

No.

Only thing is Tests - Switches - Matrixed, and Tests - Switches - Dedicated. To flag bad ones, and when you closed one they change colors on the screen. The game doesn't track what all happened during a game.

LTG : )

#2115 3 years ago
Quoted from RavenBlackthorn:

Just for clarification--you repeat this same process to qualify all three of the multiballs?

Correct. And you don't get credit for finishing an objective twice if you haven't started an arkenstone mode. But it will of course save your progress of the 5 objectives so in the past I have started barrel escape about 1 minute after finishing into the fire because I was so close to completing the objectives a 2nd time.

If you are struggling with modes just try and choose 'one ring'
Its the hexagon with a picture of someone holding a ring zoomed in so you can only see a bit of his fingers. Top middle.

#2116 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

No.
Only thing is Tests - Switches - Matrixed, and Tests - Switches - Dedicated. To flag bad ones, and when you closed one they change colors on the screen. The game doesn't track what all happened during a game.
LTG : )

It "potentially" does but we as users can't access it. From what I have been able to infer is that there is an sql database that is written to about which of the switches hit and when etc.

This is where all the stats/audits come from. These are seen as a time series log event in the menu itself for some of the more interesting switches. The dump stats option creates a multi-line combined/parsed version of this.

I was investigating to see if I could pull raw log event's in which I could do some game analysis on.

#2117 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

The dump stats option

That is in there. I don't know if it will help you.

LTG : )

#2118 3 years ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

1. As others have reported, the strength in the plunger seemed to be getting weaker with use and so I was thinking about buying a stronger plunger spring. But now I am clearly detecting a lot of friction in the plunger itself and it is starting to feel like it is sticking as it is pulled out. Any ideas how to best lubricate a shooter lane plunger? Or is their a plastic insert that may need replacing in a similar style to those used inside coils?

Have you checked the angle of the plunger? On our game, the plunger aimed way too high, so it would not hit the ball squarely and also regularly bump into the top of the auto plunger. Caused weakness and severe inconsistency. Not sure what the correct way is to fix the angle, but we added a shim (a bit of a broken playfield plastic, actually) between the cabinet and the shooter housing, on the outside of the cabinet at the lower end of the housing. Works perfectly.

#2119 3 years ago

Is there any indication from Keith or JJP that Hobbit will have an overall wizard mode that combines the rake stone modes and other stuff? Sort of like Valinor? Didn't see anything on the ruleset schematic on the Hobbit ruleset thread.

Not that I would ever see it.

#2120 3 years ago
Quoted from dmesserly:

Is there any indication from Keith or JJP that Hobbit will have an overall wizard mode that combines the rake stone modes and other stuff? Sort of like Valinor? Didn't see anything on the ruleset schematic on the Hobbit ruleset thread.
Not that I would ever see it.

People asked Keith and his response was that he wouldn't put a date on it and updates would come out quickly (like they have been)

I'm guessing we are 2 big updates away. 1.40 for battle of the 5 armies. 1.50 for 1 for super wizard mode. And then after that it's just polish

#2121 3 years ago
Quoted from oyvindmo:

On our game, the plunger aimed way too high, so it would not hit the ball squarely and also regularly bump into the top of the auto plunger. Caused weakness and severe inconsistency.

Mine was doing this as well. All I did was add a small amount of rolled up masking tape where the play field 'hooks' seat into the lock down bar. This allowed about 1/8 inch or so of lift. This allowed me to have a smooth plunge that actually makes it easily hit the F drop target all the time.

#2122 3 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

Mine was doing this as well. All I did was add a small amount of rolled up masking tape where the play field 'hooks' seat into the lock down bar. This allowed about 1/8 inch or so of lift. This allowed me to have a smooth plunge that actually makes it easily hit the F drop target all the time.

Other that adding a spacer under the PF hooks, you can also raise the locking mechanism by loosening its attachment screws and moving it up slightly or reworking its holes to allow for more adjustment.

This would make for a more durable, stable adjustment. Especially for those games where the shooter rod had to be shimmed.

#2123 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Other that adding a spacer under the PF hooks, you can also raise the locking mechanism by loosening its attachment screws and moving it up slightly or reworking its holes to allow for more adjustment.
This would make for a more durable, stable adjustment. Especially for those games where the shooter rod had to be shimmed.

I look into to doing that long term...my fix was a simple, quick, no hardware adjustments fix. But your idea will be what I need to do long term to correct.

#2124 3 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I look into to doing that long term...my fix was a simple, quick, no hardware adjustments fix. But your idea will be what I need to do long term to correct.

If you move the lock mech you will also have to re-adjust the brass screws to re-position the lock-down bar. Its tedious but might work better than ever when done.

Im also thinking that the lock-down bar would benefit from some self adhesive felt in the corners that touch the side-rails, to keep from wearing them out or causing cracking/gouging of the powder coat

#2125 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im also thinking that the lock-down bar would benefit from some self adhesive felt in the corners that touch the side-rails, to keep from wearing them out or causing cracking/gouging of the powder coat

I agree, in fact I will probably put some there. I lean into the machine hard in that area actually.

#2126 3 years ago

I picked up a NIB Hobbit LE at the York Show from a seller on pinside. After getting it home in the rain (York show = guaranteed rainy weekend), and downstairs, it went together nicely. I added the green plastic protectors and green super bands. I am waiting for Cliffy protectors to arrive. The game has all of the fixes as far as I can see. I'll have to read through all these posts and look for questions on the lock bar. It does not open or close easily. It does not feel like a solid push to the right like on my other games. It simply locks the bar and has just enough clearance to close the door. Other than this, I plan to do some adjustments on the angle and height so that balls do not fly around and my pinball dolly can fit under the cabinet to move it around. I look forward to this game. Thanks, Michael

#2127 3 years ago

For the lock down bar all I do is hold the lever out and insert the bar. Let go of the lever (see first pic). If you can see the lever like this then its ready to lean on.

Lean down onto the bar (doesn't take much weight). It will then snap into full locked position itself.
If you now look the lever will be in the full lock position on the far right (2nd pic)

image (resized).jpeg
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#2128 3 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I agree, in fact I will probably put some there. I lean into the machine hard in that area actually.

I just checked mine and noticed i'd already started chipping a little rail off.

I've added a little scotch restickable tabs (just visible in the pic).

image (resized).jpeg

#2129 3 years ago

Just joined the club with an LE. No pics since we all know how it looks. Playing great so far out of the box and recent production so has the fixes installed.

I'm really enjoying digging into the modes and trying to figure out all the rules interact. The JJP team did a fantastic job on this pin and I know it took a lot of development time.

JJP's set the bar pretty high for Stern when they come out with their LCD pin.

Can't wait to see what's next from Lawlor!

Thanks Joe at Pinball Star for the pin.

#2130 3 years ago

I'm having a problem with the goblin beast mech not dropping fully when hit. He seems to slide a bit then slowly drop with vibration only until he is finally back down. Any ideas with the problem.

#2131 3 years ago

Left side of lock bar is really tight. In just a few times on and off it is affecting the decal. I did the photos without the glass in. When I get the lock bar on, the bar does not move freely to the right. When I push down really hard on the button decal I can move the lever to the right. This just does not seem right. Will it be much different with the glass?

There are two brass screws that look like they could be adjustments but I don't see what they could adjust. Thanks. Michael

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#2132 3 years ago
Quoted from John1210:

Any ideas with the problem.

Check front, back, left, right. It is binding on something. You can loosen the screws holding the whole mech to the playfield and line it up a little.

LTG : )

#2133 3 years ago

I'm curious what people are paying, best cash sale out the door from a distributor for a standard or premium Hobbit?
Pm me if you have some figures,
thanks, James

#2134 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

There are two brass screws that look like they could be adjustments but I don't see what they could adjust. Thanks. Michael

mike go for it! thats what fixed mine!

#2135 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

There are two brass screws that look like they could be adjustments but I don't see what they could adjust. Thanks. Michael

The lever that moves back and forth in the lockdown bar receiver, they lower or raise it so it locks into the lockdown bar easier. You can remove the glass, lift the playfield up and lean back, put the lockdown bar on and see if the lever needs to go up or down.

LTG : )

#2136 3 years ago

Thanks Lloyd. I'll do this later when I get home. It's amazing I've been doing this for years and never needed to work on a lock down lever.

Michael

#2137 3 years ago

The lock bar was a pain to adjust. Thanks for your help. It works more smoothly now.
Michael

#2138 3 years ago

As this is my first pin that doesn't actually have armour around the flipper buttons what are peoples opinions about what wear is going to occur around them? I'd seen other sterns that quickly wear away the decal paint near then.

Seeing the rails is pretty unique is really isn't an option to replace them.

#2139 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

As this is my first pin that doesn't actually have armour around the flipper buttons what are peoples opinions about what wear is going to occur around them? I'd seen other sterns that quickly wear away the decal paint near then.
Seeing the rails is pretty unique is really isn't an option to replace them.

radcals

#2140 3 years ago

:\ which I don't opt in for.

I wonder if they can just be installed over the top of the existing decals but not stuck on. ie. held on by the head hinge and flipper buttons.

I've found that where I have the pin right now exposes it to quite a bit of passing traffic from my kids. I've already had to add a plastic protector to the corner (you can see it on one of my pictures above - https://i1.pinside.com/c/e2/ce24ac97dbe113a726812b34af6a1bf81d4a320c/resized/740/ce24ac97dbe113a726812b34af6a1bf81d4a320c.jpeg.jpg ) to stop bumps so it got me thinking about button wear.

#2141 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I've already had to add a plastic protector to the corner (you can see it on one of my pictures above

Where did you get the corner protector or did you make it?

I have not had a chance to search but are the leg protectors that come with the game sufficient or do people still use pincabs?

#2142 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

Where did you get the corner protector or did you make it?
I have not had a chance to search but are the leg protectors that come with the game sufficient or do people still use pincabs?

The silver protectors are the best because the legs do not rub on the cabinet. Do not use pincabs

#2143 3 years ago

Any word when the next update will be released it's been a while since the last one.

#2144 3 years ago
Quoted from tron1969:

Any word when the next update will be released it's been a while since the last one.

It has been a while. I wonder if focus has shifted on to Pat's game with Expo and the reveal coming up.

#2145 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

Where did you get the corner protector or did you make it?

In my case I used some plastic I had from a box of headphones. I just cut the corner out.

ghetto temp cab protection

The pin itself is currently in a bad position in my smallish study while my new house is being built (with a dedicated pin room) so this is just a temporary fix. I've found that while its here I am very likely to brush past it and chip the corner off the cabinet. I've snagged myself on it a couple of times.

As for leg protectors I just used some cloth ones from Mr Pinball here locally. The metal corner standoffs on the cabinet are more than good enough to protect the cabinet. I used these to protect the legs themselves from metal on metal rubbing. The finish on them is just so unique that I won't want to try and replace them

Quoted from brucipher:

It has been a while. I wonder if focus has shifted on to Pat's game with Expo and the reveal coming up.

Its coming soon apparently. 1.35 was being tested for a while now so i'd expect we see it around expo.

#2146 3 years ago

1.35 might have just been an update for the stream....might only be internal and be bundled with 1.40

#2147 3 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

1.35 might have just been an update for the stream....might only be internal and be bundled with 1.40

I'm curious as I thought it was being tested. Hobbit is kick pass, the more I play it, the more I like it.

#2148 3 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

I'm curious as I thought it was being tested. Hobbit is kick pass, the more I play it, the more I like it.

Yeah it is weird that it is rated so low in the top 100. Weird to the point of wondering whether it is a legit rating. No way all of the negatives at the front end of the voting are still legit. And why is there only voting on one edition of the pin when most Sterns are split into voting on pro vs LE?

#2149 3 years ago
Quoted from pinlosopher:

Yeah it is weird that it is rated so low in the top 100. Weird to the point of wondering whether it is a legit rating. No way all of the negatives at the front end of the voting are still legit. And why is there only voting on one edition of the pin when most Sterns are split into voting on pro vs LE?

Because the great thing is all JJP pinball versions play the same. No de-contenting like Stern.

#2150 3 years ago
Quoted from pinlosopher:

Yeah it is weird that it is rated so low in the top 100. Weird to the point of wondering whether it is a legit rating. No way all of the negatives at the front end of the voting are still legit. And why is there only voting on one edition of the pin when most Sterns are split into voting on pro vs LE?

I'm not rating Hobbit until the code is closer to completion.

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