(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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There are 7860 posts in this topic. You are on page 42 of 158.
#2051 3 years ago

Got # 222 LE and loving it. JJP packed it very well. The entire unboxing experience was great

#2052 3 years ago

I had one where the plunger had no rollpin holding the plastic part to the plunger

Maybe the top of the plunger armature that hits the ball is the problem, check that

#2053 3 years ago

am kinda lost here. i orderd the hobbit el in febr. 2014. 2,5 year from now and still even hear nothing. no email nothing. i hope it comes before christmas

#2054 3 years ago

le* afcours

#2055 3 years ago

Smaug #5 ordered 1/24/2014 just received a couple days ago...only issues out of the box we're lo(c)k switch gap and lock down bar needed adjusting. Lots to learn about game play and little chance to look st the monitor to see what to shoot for. Had a frantic set of multiballs ending up over a million points.

IMG_1434 (resized).JPG

#2056 3 years ago

I just got mine on Saturday. I thought the little book lcd was supposed to tell you what is going on, but it seems to display stuff that's irrelevant to what's going on in game play. Can anyone tell me what the little lcd is for?

#2057 3 years ago

Oh, and I ordered mine direct from JJP in October 2014.

#2058 3 years ago
Quoted from yonizzell:

I just got mine on Saturday. I thought the little book lcd was supposed to tell you what is going on, but it seems to display stuff that's irrelevant to what's going on in game play. Can anyone tell me what the little lcd is for?

Mode instructions. If a mode isn't active its just a book and each page is the mode that will start when you shoot mode ramp

#2059 3 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

Mode instructions. If a mode isn't active its just a book and each page is the mode that will start when you shoot mode ramp

Ok, thanks!

#2060 3 years ago

Has anyone had to remove one of the beast mechs on their game before? One of the beast molds on the mech itself came lose and I need to tighten down the screws again holding it on. From what I can tell the entire mech will need to come off...

#2061 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Has anyone had to remove one of the beast mechs on their game before? One of the beast molds on the mech itself came lose and I need to tighten down the screws again holding it on. From what I can tell the entire mech will need to come off...

Take the top flap off first by lifting the springs and removing the clips. Flap lifts right off. Playfield up, remove 5 or so screws and the mech slides right out. Very easy.
Oh, disconnect wires. They are all fitted with connectors.

#2062 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Cancel your pre-order and buy from automated. You'll have the pin in three days.

Now why would somebody cancel their pre-order and lose $1000 in order to receive a machine in "three" days when they might receive their pre-order in 2-3 weeks? I'm beginning to think that distributors are getting preferential treatment over private individuals with older pre-order dates. By the way, my order is with JJP direct.

#2063 3 years ago
Quoted from udo:

am kinda lost here. i orderd the hobbit el in febr. 2014. 2,5 year from now and still even hear nothing. no email nothing. i hope it comes before christmas

That stinks. Preordering is The Unexpected Journey.

#2064 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Solder joint looks good. You can remove the quarters, it appears plunger isn't getting enough power.
A big job but please put the full install 1.01 back in ( instructions in the rear of the manual ) which you can download here if you need it :
http://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/game-specific-downloads/the-hobbit-downloads/ and see if things improve, and then try a new download of 1.31
Maybe your update had an issue ?
LTG : )

Well gave it a try this morning with high hopes. Currently back to version 1.01 but no luck. Same thing. I made a video of it this morning. The clicking in the background is just the drop target skill shot.

Hope this helps some. I tried to follow the wiring and the little bit i can see looks good before it gets lost in the big wire clump.

#2065 3 years ago
Quoted from FlipMyBalls:

Well gave it a try this morning with high hopes. Currently back to version 1.01 but no luck. Same thing. I made a video of it this morning. The clicking in the background is just the drop target skill shot. » YouTube video
Hope this helps some. I tried to follow the wiring and the little bit i can see looks good before it gets lost in the big wire clump.

Try manually operating the plunger with the power off, see if you can get it to feed a ball by hand.
Remove the mechanism to inspect it if necessary.
Check that the ball isnt hitting the wire gate that keeps the balls from falling out when the playfield is raised.
An improperly mounted or broken wire gate will block the ball feeder.

The ball feeder solenoid definitely looks a little weak. Its moving slow and anemic.
Its possible that the soldered connections to the coil are poor. Its called a cold joint (looks good but its not). If you wiggle the wires on the coil they should not move within the solder blob. I would re-heat those connections just as a test.

I think that because the game fired correctly at first, and then failed, it looks like a wire gate problem or a loose connection/cracked wire or cold solder joint.

You can also gently comb thru the wires from the coil into the main harness with your fingertips to see if anything else is loose.
Sometimes the problem is elsewhere and you see the effect at that coil. The connection on the driver board might also be loose, or possibly a connector pin not making good contact on the computer side of the harness.

I have seen the same behavior when only a single strand of the wire is touching the contact due to a poor solder joint (not enough current flow makes low power).
After checking for bad connections and verifying good solder joints by re-heating them, if the problem persists I would check voltage at the coil and work from there, and replace the coil if necessary.

#2066 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Take the top flap off first by lifting the springs and removing the clips. Flap lifts right off. Playfield up, remove 5 or so screws and the mech slides right out. Very easy.
Oh, disconnect wires. They are all fitted with connectors.

Thank you! I'll try that.

#2067 3 years ago
Quoted from FlipMyBalls:

I tried to follow the wiring and the little bit i can see looks good before it gets lost in the big wire clump.

Check the rear of the manual for wiring pinouts on the back of the big metal box. Check there, inside, and to the I/O board. Look for loose connector, wire loose in a connector.

If nothing turns up, call Frank or Victor tomorrow at JJP ext 222 for more ideas.

LTG : )

#2068 3 years ago
Quoted from yonizzell:

Oh, and I ordered mine direct from JJP in October 2014.

Interesting... glad you got your game, but I wonder why you got yours before others who ordered before you.

#2069 3 years ago
Quoted from FlipMyBalls:

Well gave it a try this morning with high hopes. Currently back to version 1.01 but no luck. Same thing. I made a video of it this morning. The clicking in the background is just the drop target skill shot. » YouTube video
Hope this helps some. I tried to follow the wiring and the little bit i can see looks good before it gets lost in the big wire clump.

i had the same problem, for me it was hitting the apron and bouncing back down. I shimmed the apron forward with a couple washers and that cured it for me. The tolerance on the notch cut in the apron is too tight........could be your trough VUK power setting too, what is that set to? Mine is 16

#2070 3 years ago
Quoted from brucipher:

Interesting... glad you got your game, but I wonder why you got yours before others who ordered before you.

I'm not really sure.

#2071 3 years ago

Ok bought a soldering iron and reheated the connections. Now its kicking up!! Must have been the cold solder??? Reinstalled the 1.31 version and im back in buisness!! Finally giving the new code a run and its been great. Did into the fire this evening and wow the changes from the original version are fantastic! Thanks you guys for the help and i learned so much even taking the few things apart. One step closer to fixing these issues on my own in the future hopefully.

I did find another issue though. After a number of games the light show kind of stops?? It has everything lit a single color but nothing is flashing or changing color or anything. If i turn the game off and turn it back on it works fine again for between 3 to 8 games before doing it again. Known issue? Heat issue or possibly code bug? Here what the lights look like the last time and the dont change or flash.

20160925_210328 (resized).jpg

#2072 3 years ago

I ordered my The Hobbit Smaug 0n 8/16/2016 and received it 8/19/2016, only took 4 days!

#2073 3 years ago

This lil F*^%$# wont leave my game and claimed it as his precious .....

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#2074 3 years ago

Is there a ramp flap fix kit yet?

#2075 3 years ago
Quoted from FlipMyBalls:

Ok bought a soldering iron and reheated the connections. Now its kicking up!! Must have been the cold solder??? Reinstalled the 1.31 version and im back in buisness!! Finally giving the new code a run and its been great. Did into the fire this evening and wow the changes from the original version are fantastic! Thanks you guys for the help and i learned so much even taking the few things apart. One step closer to fixing these issues on my own in the future hopefully.
I did find another issue though. After a number of games the light show kind of stops?? It has everything lit a single color but nothing is flashing or changing color or anything. If i turn the game off and turn it back on it works fine again for between 3 to 8 games before doing it again. Known issue? Heat issue or possibly code bug? Here what the lights look like the last time and the dont change or flash.

I had the light issue you are having. The light board in the middle of the playfield in between the 4 pop up monsters, there is a micro usb connector that came loose. Unplug fully, reinsert again, power up and it shouldn't happen again. Mine had too much tension on it and pulling at it some.

#2076 3 years ago

Got my Hobbit LE #10. Added a red led strip in the back.

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#2077 3 years ago

Couple of new issues have reared their head on my Hobbit LE:

1. As others have reported, the strength in the plunger seemed to be getting weaker with use and so I was thinking about buying a stronger plunger spring. But now I am clearly detecting a lot of friction in the plunger itself and it is starting to feel like it is sticking as it is pulled out. Any ideas how to best lubricate a shooter lane plunger? Or is their a plastic insert that may need replacing in a similar style to those used inside coils?

2. After only a few hundred games my left slingshot rubber snapped - literally. Completely clean tear. Looking over the other slingshot rubber I can see that this has a small tear. I have no problem with replacing rubbers after a decent amount of use and wear and tear, but these slingshot rubbers are failing way too soon. Anyone else had similar issues?

#2078 3 years ago
Quoted from John1210:

Is there a ramp flap fix kit yet?

Yes - contact JJP tech support and they'll help you out.

#2079 3 years ago
Quoted from Monarca1091:

This lil F*^%$# wont leave my game and claimed it as his precious .....

fantastic!! cant wait to see the different toppers and mod that come out for this game! do you have him tied down somehow from behind the machine??? as long as nudging doesn't cause him to come crashing down on the invisiglass hahaha

#2080 3 years ago
Quoted from pefdude:

I had the light issue you are having. The light board in the middle of the playfield in between the 4 pop up monsters, there is a micro usb connector that came loose. Unplug fully, reinsert again, power up and it shouldn't happen again. Mine had too much tension on it and pulling at it some.

Thanks for the response I will give this a try tonight!!

#2081 3 years ago
Quoted from FlipMyBalls:

fantastic!! cant wait to see the different toppers and mod that come out for this game! do you have him tied down somehow from behind the machine??? as long as nudging doesn't cause him to come crashing down on the invisiglass hahaha

he is very light but still he will be tied to the wall, my wife thinks its extremly creepy....

#2082 3 years ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

Couple of new issues have reared their head on my Hobbit LE:
1. As others have reported, the strength in the plunger seemed to be getting weaker with use and so I was thinking about buying a stronger plunger spring. But now I am clearly detecting a lot of friction in the plunger itself and it is starting to feel like it is sticking as it is pulled out. Any ideas how to best lubricate a shooter lane plunger? Or is their a plastic insert that may need replacing in a similar style to those used inside coils?
2. After only a few hundred games my left slingshot rubber snapped - literally. Completely clean tear. Looking over the other slingshot rubber I can see that this has a small tear. I have no problem with replacing rubbers after a decent amount of use and wear and tear, but these slingshot rubbers are failing way too soon. Anyone else had similar issues?

Use a little dry lube on the plunger (silicone spray).

JJP uses STC rubber, in theory its very good over-all.

Terry over at pinballlife.com makes his own rubber that you can order if you dont like the STC rubber.

None of the rubber is perfect, nor has it ever been.

The Rubber these days is not as good as the rubber from way back it seems. Just replace it and hope the next rings last longer.

People like Rick at PPS can tell you all about the ins and outs of making rubber, from molding to various recipes, to specific durometer values of the different colors etc...He has had quite a time of it.

The rubber can vary in quality from batch to batch depending on who made it and whether they followed the recipe correctly.

Also you can try the newer silicone or urethane products.

#2083 3 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Got my Hobbit LE #10. Added a red led strip in the back.

I really like the red glow in the back.
Thats a mod that I can buy into.

#2084 3 years ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

2. After only a few hundred games my left slingshot rubber snapped - literally. Completely clean tear. Looking over the other slingshot rubber I can see that this has a small tear. I have no problem with replacing rubbers after a decent amount of use and wear and tear, but these slingshot rubbers are failing way too soon. Anyone else had similar issues?

After only one week of game use, I noticed my slingshot rubbers each had two cuts developing in them where the edges of each kicker arm plastic (not sure what the correct terminology is) contacts the rubber. JJP was sending me replacements, but in the meantime I ordered some titan competition ones to try thinking they would last longer anyhow. They seem to be decent replacements so far, but I do notice one big difference in usage - they amplify ball spin effects due to how grabby they seem to be. I never had an issue with ball spin out of the ramp returns before, but now (particularly on the right side) every once in a while when returning, the spinning ball just grabs the titan band and springs right out and down the right outlane.

This only happened once in the whole week prior with the regular bands, now several times a day with the titans. Interestingly when I look back in the thread on the report of this issue and the cause (end or return being bent slightly down angle towards PF) I notice on mine it is bent slightly sideways, tilted to the left instead of forwards as in the original post/solution on the subject. I plan to see if straightening it helps this any, as otherwise this is the only negative effect I am noticing initially from using titans to replace the slingshot rubbers.
Also of note - while both Hobbit slingshots were showing these cuts in the rubber after only one week, my WoZ does not exhibit any cuts at all after much longer usage. Perhaps it is only the white rubber that tends to cut?

#2085 3 years ago

I found my order mail and that was september 2013. so 3 years ago. middle earth seems to have some trouble to ship to holland (amsterdam) i guess.

#2086 3 years ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

Yes - contact JJP tech support and they'll help you out.

I contacted and they said they weren't out yet, but would be announced when they were.

#2087 3 years ago
Quoted from elf70:

After only one week of game use, I noticed my slingshot rubbers each had two cuts developing in them where the edges of each kicker arm plastic (not sure what the correct terminology is) contacts the rubber. JJP was sending me replacements, but in the meantime I ordered some titan competition ones to try thinking they would last longer anyhow. They seem to be decent replacements so far, but I do notice one big difference in usage - they amplify ball spin effects due to how grabby they seem to be. I never had an issue with ball spin out of the ramp returns before, but now (particularly on the right side) every once in a while when returning, the spinning ball just grabs the titan band and springs right out and down the right outlane.
This only happened once in the whole week prior with the regular bands, now several times a day with the titans. Interestingly when I look back in the thread on the report of this issue and the cause (end or return being bent slightly down angle towards PF) I notice on mine it is bent slightly sideways, tilted to the left instead of forwards as in the original post/solution on the subject. I plan to see if straightening it helps this any, as otherwise this is the only negative effect I am noticing initially from using titans to replace the slingshot rubbers.
Also of note - while both Hobbit slingshots were showing these cuts in the rubber after only one week, my WoZ does not exhibit any cuts at all after much longer usage. Perhaps it is only the white rubber that tends to cut?

Silicone and urethane can be grabby when fresh.
Apply a little talcum powder to the new rings until they break in and get a little dirtier.

White rubber is bouncier than the black but is not as robust.
WOZ has black rubber TH has white.

I think that the TH with the open PF definitely benefits from the white rubber.
That said, we will just replace the rubber more frequently as it frays or wears out.
Im using STC rubber for now as I have a ton of it.
But, I am curious if pinball life rubber is better or about the same, as far as bounce vs durability.

Im not sold on silicone, it plays diferently that I am used too.

However I do like the titan silicone flipper bands compared to the pinball life urethane flipper bands.
They seem more robust than latex and have a similar bounce and feel. But really its just a matter of feel and you might like just the opposite.

#2088 3 years ago
Quoted from fordtudoor:

Now why would somebody cancel their pre-order and lose $1000 in order to receive a machine in "three" days when they might receive their pre-order in 2-3 weeks? I'm beginning to think that distributors are getting preferential treatment over private individuals with older pre-order dates. By the way, my order is with JJP direct.

Yeah, I forgot the discount people got on the preorder. It is probably worth sticking it out. But not having any clue to arrival time is frustrating. I know automated does get preferential supplies. I think it's a longstanding deal with jjp.

#2089 3 years ago
Quoted from Rick432:

I'm wondering if anyone who has the playfield protector installed has had any problems with damage along the back edge of where the trap door meets the playfield.
It seems possible because the edge of the protector is not perfectly flush with the back edge. At least not as flush as applied mylar would be. It also seems possible because the protector is essentially kept in place by gravity, so it might have enough play to not offer good protection against heavy trap door activity, which is unusual and so the protector might not behave as expected.
I think adding mylar under the thick, but RELATIVELY unsecured and imprecise playfield protector, might accomplish adding protection to those high impact areas. I also think that it might not be the most difficult surgery in the world. But no one likes to stick mylar onto their playfield unless they're pretty sure it is necessary. Still, better than damage, of course.

Very valid concern actually.

On mine that has a factory protector I think I have some protector wear on the back of the beasts.

I'm doing more cliffy installs tonight so I'll take some pics.

edit: added pic. Seems to only be slight scuffing on the plastic.

"It seems possible because the edge of the protector is not perfectly flush with the back edge. At least not as flush as applied mylar would be"

My protector is seems to be a very good fit around the beasts.

FullSizeRender (1) (resized).jpg

#2090 3 years ago

Wonder if anything can be done about failed kick backs. The switch is super close to the coil. So a fast ball has no chance of being there when the coil shoots.
If it happens during multiball... It's no big deal... There are plenty of add-a-balls. But when it happens when there is only 1 ball in play it's quite Annoying.

Maybe if there is only one ball in play. If the ball drains when kick back is active then

1. if there are no switch hits before the ball through opto is hit
2. within a certain time like 2 seconds

Then
it should kick out another ball

#2091 3 years ago

Anyone recognize this spring?

Found it last night sitting on top of my lock down which was on the floor below the coin door.

I'm guessing it would have to have been something from the lower end of the playfield but there is no other springs of this style that I can find.

FullSizeRender (resized).jpg

#2092 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Anyone recognize this spring?
Found it last night sitting on top of my lock down which was on the floor below the coin door.
I'm guessing it would have to have been something from the lower end of the playfield but there is no other springs of this style that I can find.

You check all your beast mechs?

#2093 3 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

You check all your beast mechs?

Looks like one of the two springs that hold the "roof" on the beast mechs. Could have been drooped during assembly and hanging in the wires until it finally worked it's way out and dropped. I found several screws and cut wire ties that must have been dropped and hiding in the wires that fell during the first week of playing and adjusting.

#2094 3 years ago
Quoted from fordtudoor:

I'm beginning to think that distributors are getting preferential treatment over private individuals with older pre-order dates.

Unfortunately, sadly this is likely true. Happened to me when I bought my WOZ, ordered right at beginning. Main reason why I'm buying a used Hobbit over NIB.

I'm a JJP fan, but it infuriated me when I confirmed disti's who were placing new orders for games were getting them before many of us who preordered years in advance. That's why preorder system doesn't work. I get JJP needs to keep disti channel happy, but then don't take preorders direct from customers.

Still happy WOZ owner and JJP fan though.

#2095 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Anyone recognize this spring?
Found it last night sitting on top of my lock down which was on the floor below the coin door.
I'm guessing it would have to have been something from the lower end of the playfield but there is no other springs of this style that I can find.

It's a beast mech flap spring
If all 8 are there, it might be a spare. I found one near to the right of the Balin hole when I opened my machine, just randomly there

#2096 3 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

You check all your beast mechs?

Yes. Beast mechs have a tighter spiraled spring and it's also a different color (brown/bronze). Almost the same size though so a pretty good guess.

#2097 3 years ago

Received mine yesterday, today my upper flipper quit working.

Looks like if it was a driver or fuse more than just that flipper wouldn't work. Dragon diverter right next to it is working fine.

If it was the cabinet switch, it'd still work in test. Anything left I should be looking at before I resolder the coil, and replace if it doesn't work still?

#2098 3 years ago
Quoted from muttonboy:

today my upper flipper quit working.

Please go into Tests - Dedicated, and slowly push the right flipper button in. First lower should register on the screen, then the upper.

Most likely you just need to adjust the one farthest from the flipper button.

LTG : )

#2099 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Please go into Tests - Dedicated, and slowly push the right flipper button in. First lower should register on the screen, then the upper.
Most likely you just need to adjust the one farthest from the flipper button.
LTG : )

hey thanks for the quick response lloyd! I haven't been able to get the jjp ticket thing to send me the email to verify my account figured it was after hours likely and I would call tomorrow if needed.

the cabinet switch is working great, coil won't fire in coil test either. the coils wires go from the coil straight to J107 on the i/o board it looks like, correct?

#2100 3 years ago
Quoted from muttonboy:

the coils wires go from the coil straight to J107 on the i/o board it looks like, correct?

Yes.

LTG : )

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