(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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#1501 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Mine comes tomorrow!!! How would I recognize the upgraded ramp flaps? It's my biggest worry.

It looks like from the above picture, that the new ramps are black instead of silver.
Black or dark blue would indicate spring steel instead of regular stainless.

#1502 3 years ago

To prevent the ramp flaps from curling up could you wax the area of the playfield just in front of the ramp and apply mylar with half of the strip being on the ramp flap to hold it down?

#1503 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It looks like from the above picture, that the new ramps are black instead of silver.
Black or dark blue would indicate spring steel instead of regular stainless.

Mine are dark blue. I got it yesterday straight from JJP. My date of manufacture is 7/28/16.

#1504 3 years ago

Ok. Will open it in a couple hours!!! Can't wait! Any best practices on an unboxing and setup?

#1506 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Ok. Will open it in a couple hours!!! Can't wait! Any best practices on an unboxing and setup?

Congrats Mike

Really interested on how you compare the WOZ and THLE. Sitting on the fence between the two. Played both in Tacoma but TH was early code and no one really seemed to know how to play it then. Looking forward to your observations.

Enjoy!

#1507 3 years ago

Has anyone had problems with one of the backbox speakers sets (i.e. right or left) not working?

#1508 3 years ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

Has anyone had problems with one of the backbox speakers sets (i.e. right or left) not working?

Yes. My left speaker cuts in and out during gameplay. I went through and tightened all the connections and I thought it was fine until it did it again today.

#1509 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It looks like from the above picture, that the new ramps are black instead of silver.
Black or dark blue would indicate spring steel instead of regular stainless.

Got my game last week and they are the dark blue ones.. pics to follow this weekend. Game is FANTASTIC.

#1510 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

To prevent the ramp flaps from curling up could you wax the area of the playfield just in front of the ramp and apply mylar with half of the strip being on the ramp flap to hold it down?

I have mine taped down with mylar right now. Its an ok fix but the mylar gets cut up pretty easily.
New flaps are on the way from JJP as an upgrade. I hope they are included in the update kit along with the character mech fixes, ball post and springs.

#1511 3 years ago

My flaps have a blue sheen to them. Spring steel?

#1512 3 years ago
Quoted from BillySastard:

Yes. My left speaker cuts in and out during gameplay. I went through and tightened all the connections and I thought it was fine until it did it again today.

I'm just trying to resolve the same problem on my WOZ. I changed the cables and tested it with different, external speakers but the issue remains. So it seems like the issue is the soundboard. Any suggestions? Or is it the software? But then everybody should have it...

#1513 3 years ago

Do you all have the game with play field protector? Any issues without one? Thanks.

#1514 3 years ago

Thanks for all the good info in this thread folks.

I don't want to spam the crud out of the forums but finding new and ephemeral posts is sometimes hard on pinside so I wanted to add my $.02 to this thread as a Hobbit pin owner about a project I did - made my game Internet accessible so people could post messages and pictures to the backglass and live-streamed directly from the pin hardware. Involved only software changes other than plugging in 2 cords. Link goes to short demo video, write-up, some other stuff.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-i-internet-ified-my-hobbit-pin#post-3290931

-1
#1515 3 years ago

I got my game without a protector. I played about 25 games on it and I noticed a few ball divots (due to ball impacts) on the playfield. This is a normal condition in pinball. Since this game was NIB, I wanted to protect the PF from that kind of wear. I suggest getting the factory installed protector since this game plays very fast and the numerous multiballs and air balls.

#1516 3 years ago
Quoted from 1quartershort:

Congrats Mike
Really interested on how you compare the WOZ and THLE. Sitting on the fence between the two. Played both in Tacoma but TH was early code and no one really seemed to know how to play it then. Looking forward to your observations.
Enjoy!

Both games are amazing. I own both and if I had to choose now, I like woz. It's mainly due to difficulty level and finished code. Hobbit to me is easier to progress. Its really hard to choose between the two. I would suggest playing each a little more before deciding if possible. You can't go wrong either way, and both blow other pins away IMO. Pm me if you want more info on each game as an owner.

#1517 3 years ago
Quoted from BillySastard:

Yes. My left speaker cuts in and out during gameplay. I went through and tightened all the connections and I thought it was fine until it did it again today.

Quoted from tatapolus:

I'm just trying to resolve the same problem on my WOZ. I changed the cables and tested it with different, external speakers but the issue remains. So it seems like the issue is the soundboard. Any suggestions? Or is it the software? But then everybody should have it...

Did some testing this morning and can only conclude that the Right channel output from my soundboard is dead. I swapped the Right and Left cables at the soundboard and this time it was the Left speakers that were dead. Swap the cable back to their correct positions and the Right speakers stop working.

I'll submit a support ticket to JJP and will let you know how I get on.

#1518 3 years ago

I just talked to Sal at JJP and ordered my update kit for the ball traps and post etc.
Its easy, just chose it from the drop down on the support portal and make a ticket.
Be prepared though to call them up and pay for the shipping of $8.00.

I also asked about the upgraded ramp flaps. They will be available next week or so.
Jack might do a video on this also.

From what I understand, of the moment, the kit probably will include 2 sets of rivets, one set for a arbor press, and one set for a regular inexpensive pop-rivet gun from home depot or harbor freight. This might solve the issue of people having to buy an expensive press.

This should be a drop in replacement that would need no drilling of the ramp or playfield, but you would have to either grind off or scrape off the old rivets.

When you order you might ask for a couple extra rivets in case one gets crushed or mangled during its installation (it happens...).

#1519 3 years ago

Good to know thanks for the info.

#1520 3 years ago

I was hoping ramp fix would have just overlapped existing flaps using the screws to hold it down. Don't know that alot of guys are comfortable removing ramp, and grinding off rivets. Maybe it will work better than expected. Yeah, hopefully jack does a how to video for flaps as well.

#1521 3 years ago

Removing the ramp isnt too bad. They are working on an instruction sheet to make it easier to get this job done.
Removing the rivets on the metal ramp assembly will take either a drill motor and bit, to drill out the underside rivet end, or a dremel to grind it off from the underside. Fortunately this is a metal ramp and any mistakes will never be seen.

#1522 3 years ago

Comments on 1.3 code:

This update has changed the way I play.

I no longer "chop wood" endlessly to get mutiballs and high scores.

My game is now about collecting runes to get into the "into the fire and Barrel escape" modes.
The sooner I can: complete a mode, finish Smaug MB (usually get all the dwarves during MB), kill the beasts, and get to erebor, the better.
I get great satisfaction upon completing the modes and learning new things about the game each time I play.

Into the fire and barrel escape are such a rush! I want to get to them as soon as possible!

One thing I noticed is that its way harder to get to Erebor via the spinners with the book MB addition as the ball returns via the ramp instead of going thru the spinner to advance.

I also like the ability to turn pages in the book via the flippers while the ball is on the wireform. If you get lucky you can scroll thru to a single task mode to get your rune.

With all of this I can get to a million points in 15 mins vs 40 mins on a good game.

Until now I never postponed the lock feature, but now depending on whats going on, I do it a lot.

I havent killed Smaug or finished Into the fire, I just dont know how to do it...!
Maybe there's a video on it...

#1523 3 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

I wanted to protect the PF from that kind of wear.

Thin plastic protector on clear and wood will not prevent dimples from a steel ball. I cant see any reason why anyone would want to dull that beautiful playfield in home use with a full condom.

#1524 3 years ago

Twice now, I have been close to getting to barrel escape but for some reason I can not get the spider to light so that I can finish the beasts for the last arkenstone. What am I missing?

Did get to beat Smaug. Have no idea how I did it except a lot of Smaug multi balls

#1525 3 years ago
Quoted from sulli10:

Twice now, I have been close to getting to barrel escape but for some reason I can not get the spider to light so that I can finish the beasts for the last arkenstone. What am I missing?
Did get to beat Smaug. Have no idea how I did it except a lot of Smaug multi balls

Check the spider in the pop up test then check the switch with a ball to make sure it registers.
Make any necessary adjustments if needed.

#1526 3 years ago

How many games do owners play in a row before moving to another pin or switching it off?

With the new multiball in modes do people feel fatigued after a long game?

#1527 3 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

How many games do owners play in a row before moving to another pin or switching it off?
With the new multiball in modes do people feel fatigued after a long game?

For the past couple months I personally am playing 3 or 4 games a night and havent played anything else really.
I did however play GB in Las Vegas last week a lot! But oddly I missed playing my TH still.

#1528 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Comments on 1.3 code:
This update has changed the way I play.
I no longer "chop wood" endlessly to get mutiballs and high scores.
My game is now about collecting runes to get into the "into the fire and Barrel escape" modes.
The sooner I can: complete a mode, finish Smaug MB (usually get all the dwarves during MB), kill the beasts, and get to erebor, the better.
I get great satisfaction upon completing the modes and learning new things about the game each time I play.
Into the fire and barrel escape are such a rush! I want to get to them as soon as possible!
One thing I noticed is that its way harder to get to Erebor via the spinners with the book MB addition as the ball returns via the ramp instead of going thru the spinner to advance.
I also like the ability to turn pages in the book via the flippers while the ball is on the wireform. If you get lucky you can scroll thru to a single task mode to get your rune.
With all of this I can get to a million points in 15 mins vs 40 mins on a good game.
Until now I never postponed the lock feature, but now depending on whats going on, I do it a lot.
I havent killed Smaug or finished Into the fire, I just dont know how to do it...!
Maybe there's a video on it...

This is a great post to read. I don't own hobbit, but from the dozen games I played, and from reading threads, it just seems the modes/game seem like one gigantic redwood tree to chop down. Glad to hear that's really not necessarily the case. Sounds like it's not too bad getting barrel escape and ITF; does the game score adequately for achieving those modes? And can you progress through modes while in those special modes?

#1529 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

This is a great post to read. I don't own hobbit, but from the dozen games I played, and from reading threads, it just seems the modes/game seem like one gigantic redwood tree to chop down. Glad to hear that's really not necessarily the case. Sounds like it's not too bad getting barrel escape and ITF; does the game score adequately for achieving those modes? And can you progress through modes while in those special modes?

Arkenstone modes are isolated. Cannot do anything but those modes while in it.
Cannot start them when in a mode or multiball either.

AFIAK you don't get any points for starting an arkenstone mode. And you don't need to do well in beast/feast frenzy or smaug multiball to qualify. So you can get into an arkenstone mode with a really low score as long as you are doing the 5 things required.

#1531 3 years ago

Just a quick post to report that my Smaug edition arrived last week and I was really, really happy with how those Radicals look on it. Very shiny, thick, and due to the appearance it fits right in alongside my WOZ with the clearcoated direct-printed cabinet. No regrets whatsoever.

Now I just need to learn how to play it...

(here are some examples of the finish of the Radicals that I tried to do using my cellphone... better than nothing)

IMG_20160805_213916.r_(resized).jpg

IMG_20160805_214230.r_(resized).jpg

#1532 3 years ago
Quoted from mrbillishere:

Just a quick post to report that my Smaug edition arrived last week and I was really, really happy with how those Radicals look on it. Very shiny, thick, and due to the appearance it fits right in alongside my WOZ with the clearcoated direct-printed cabinet. No regrets whatsoever.
Now I just need to learn how to play it...
(here are some examples of the finish of the Radicals that I tried to do using my cellphone... better than nothing)

So glad I got Rad-Cals also! Enjoy the game!!

#1533 3 years ago

About two months after I got my Hobbit, I realized the radcals have a plastic wrap on them. It had started to peel on the corner so I finished pulling it off. If you start to do this though, just keep in mind that to completely get it all out you'll have to get the legs/coinbox/plunger/start button off temporarily and then reseat. At least I had to do get the plastic all the way out.

Radcals look amazing, totally worth it .

#1534 3 years ago

True..make sure you remove the film before attaching the legs.

#1535 3 years ago
Quoted from goldant:

About two months after I got my Hobbit, I realized the radcals have a plastic wrap on them. It had started to peel on the corner so I finished pulling it off. If you start to do this though, just keep in mind that to completely get it all out you'll have to get the legs/coinbox/plunger/start button off temporarily and then reseat. At least I had to do get the plastic all the way out.
Radcals look amazing, totally worth it .

OMG, you just explained why the plastic was already peeled off the front face (coindoor, etc) of my cabinet. I was trying to figure out why the sides/head all had the protective film but the front of the cabinet didn't.

#1536 3 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

True..make sure you remove the film before attaching the legs.

Thanks - I'll remember that when I get mine. Something simple that will save time and the "Doh!" frustration later.

#1537 3 years ago

I got Radcals as an extra (loose) For possible future install.

image_(resized).jpeg

#1538 3 years ago

You will be "Jonesin" to put those on man!

10
#1539 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Comments on 1.3 code:
This update has changed the way I play.
I no longer "chop wood" endlessly to get mutiballs and high scores.
My game is now about collecting runes to get into the "into the fire and Barrel escape" modes.
The sooner I can: complete a mode, finish Smaug MB (usually get all the dwarves during MB), kill the beasts, and get to erebor, the better.
I get great satisfaction upon completing the modes and learning new things about the game each time I play.
Into the fire and barrel escape are such a rush! I want to get to them as soon as possible!
One thing I noticed is that its way harder to get to Erebor via the spinners with the book MB addition as the ball returns via the ramp instead of going thru the spinner to advance.
I also like the ability to turn pages in the book via the flippers while the ball is on the wireform. If you get lucky you can scroll thru to a single task mode to get your rune.
With all of this I can get to a million points in 15 mins vs 40 mins on a good game.
Until now I never postponed the lock feature, but now depending on whats going on, I do it a lot.
I havent killed Smaug or finished Into the fire, I just dont know how to do it...!
Maybe there's a video on it...

I think I explained most of the rules in either this thread or the Hobbit Rulesheet thread. But here are the basics for Into the Fire and Smaug mb.

Into the Fire: Stage 1 = collect enough members to light the super jackpot which is collected at the left ramp. The stand up targets (9 of them), 2 spinners, 2 ramps, left hole, and captive ball all represent a member. Collecting super jackpot adds a ball into play and begins Stage 2. Stage 2 = hit 3 drop targets to raise the Warg. Hit the Warg. Repeat this cycle 5 times. Super jackpot is collected at the captive ball and adds a ball into play and begins Stage 3. Stage 3: hit 10 beasts as they randomly pop up. Every beast but the bottom left will potentially pop up. After hitting 10 beasts, both the Goblin and Orc will both stand up and you have to collect the jackpot by shooting through the two beasts and hitting the captive ball. This collets the super jackpot and advances to Stage 4. Stage 4: shoot a ramp to raise three beasts (warg, goblin, orc). Hit the beasts 15 times total. Ideally, this would mean 5 ramp shots and hitting each beast when they pop up. However, each ramp shot raises all 3 beasts again even if all haven't been collected since the last ramp shot. After collecting all 15 beasts, you then shoot the super jackpot at the right ramp, which adds a ball into play and advances the player to Stage 5. Stage 5: victory laps! The goal is to collect all 15 members at increasing point values. Once again, the 15 members are the 9 stand ups, 2 ramps, 2 spinners, left hole, and captive ball. You will know you are in victory laps when you hear the awesome music and Bilbo and Gandalf flying on the some animals over a valley.

Smaug mb: collect enough of the ramps, holes, and spinners. Then whenever you see the MAN targets lit red, you are close to defeating smaug. Hit any MAN target, which then lights the ARF targets. Hit any of those targets to relight the MAN targets. Hit MAN targets again and then hit one of the two remaining ARF targets. Repeat step one more time. Then finally, the right ramp will be the only jackpot lit indicating that the ball will be diverted to the windlance. The player then must press the ring button and the first switch that needs to be hit is the lit stand up target that is red (one of the ARF targets) indicating Smaug's missing scale. You will know when you hit the right one

If you don't hit the right target, then the player must hit a MAN target and reload the right ramp and try to hit the missing scale. Good luck! Easy to do without beast frenzy going, very hard to do with it going. FYI.

#1540 3 years ago

wow. great info. thanks!

Looks like I've only made it to stage 2 of Into the Fire and was glad a friend was over to tell me what to be hitting. Didn't realize I had a LONG way to go.

#1541 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballer0415:

then the player must hit a MAN target and reload the right ramp and try to hit the missing scale..

Didn't realise the reference! So good

#1542 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballer0415:

Smaug mb: collect enough of the ramps, holes, and spinners. Then whenever you see the MAN targets lit red, you are close to defeating smaug. Hit any MAN target, which then lights the ARF targets. Hit any of those targets to relight the MAN targets. Hit MAN targets again and then hit one of the two remaining ARF targets. Repeat step one more time. Then finally, the right ramp will be the only jackpot lit indicating that the ball will be diverted to the windlance. The player then must press the ring button and the first switch that needs to be hit is the lit stand up target that is red (one of the ARF targets) indicating Smaug's missing scale. You will know when you hit the right one
If you don't hit the right target, then the player must hit a MAN target and reload the right ramp and try to hit the missing scale. Good luck! Easy to do without beast frenzy going, very hard to do with it going. FYI.

I beat Smaug last night for the first time. What a trip! I was shocked when the flippers died and the ball drained, but then I realized it was so I could watch the amazing video. This game is awesome!

#1543 3 years ago

Thanks pinballer0415, that's the best written summary to beat Smaug I've read. However, I don't remember hitting the ring button when I first (and only) time beat Smaug.

#1544 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballer0415:

I think I explained most of the rules in either this thread or the Hobbit Rulesheet thread. But here are the basics for Into the Fire and Smaug mb.
Into the Fire: Stage 1 = collect enough members to light the super jackpot which is collected at the left ramp. The stand up targets (9 of them), 2 spinners, 2 ramps, left hole, and captive ball all represent a member. Collecting super jackpot adds a ball into play and begins Stage 2. Stage 2 = hit 3 drop targets to raise the Warg. Hit the Warg. Repeat this cycle 5 times. Super jackpot is collected at the captive ball and adds a ball into play and begins Stage 3. Stage 3: hit 10 beasts as they randomly pop up. Every beast but the bottom left will potentially pop up. After hitting 10 beasts, both the Goblin and Orc will both stand up and you have to collect the jackpot by shooting through the two beasts and hitting the captive ball. This collets the super jackpot and advances to Stage 4. Stage 4: shoot a ramp to raise three beasts (warg, goblin, orc). Hit the beasts 15 times total. Ideally, this would mean 5 ramp shots and hitting each beast when they pop up. However, each ramp shot raises all 3 beasts again even if all haven't been collected since the last ramp shot. After collecting all 15 beasts, you then shoot the super jackpot at the right ramp, which adds a ball into play and advances the player to Stage 5. Stage 5: victory laps! The goal is to collect all 15 members at increasing point values. Once again, the 15 members are the 9 stand ups, 2 ramps, 2 spinners, left hole, and captive ball. You will know you are in victory laps when you hear the awesome music and Bilbo and Gandalf flying on the some animals over a valley.
Smaug mb: collect enough of the ramps, holes, and spinners. Then whenever you see the MAN targets lit red, you are close to defeating smaug. Hit any MAN target, which then lights the ARF targets. Hit any of those targets to relight the MAN targets. Hit MAN targets again and then hit one of the two remaining ARF targets. Repeat step one more time. Then finally, the right ramp will be the only jackpot lit indicating that the ball will be diverted to the windlance. The player then must press the ring button and the first switch that needs to be hit is the lit stand up target that is red (one of the ARF targets) indicating Smaug's missing scale. You will know when you hit the right one
If you don't hit the right target, then the player must hit a MAN target and reload the right ramp and try to hit the missing scale. Good luck! Easy to do without beast frenzy going, very hard to do with it going. FYI.

Holy crap! My game should be here next month can't wait.

#1545 3 years ago

Thanks pinballer ... going to have to print that out until it gets into the unofficial rulesheet that is in that thread. Then ... ... I'll definitely need a "coach" to guide me through all that wall playing. This is a two "player" game ... one person plays while the other one coaches. Can't wait for my TH to arrive in a month or so.

#1546 3 years ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

Did some testing this morning and can only conclude that the Right channel output from my soundboard is dead. I swapped the Right and Left cables at the soundboard and this time it was the Left speakers that were dead. Swap the cable back to their correct positions and the Right speakers stop working.
I'll submit a support ticket to JJP and will let you know how I get on.

Good news!!! After working through some more tests at the request of Vic at JJP, we have isolated the cause of the problem with my right speaker not working. Turns out the 3.5mm audio cable between the motherboard (green socket) and the soundboard (pink socket) is faulty. JJP are sending me a new one along with the Hobbit Update kit. Compliments to Vic and the support team.

However, this issue, along with a few other problems I have come across, really highlight that their QA needs to be stepped up.

#1547 3 years ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

this issue, along with a few other problems I have come across, really highlight that their QA needs to be stepped up.

I dont think this is a QA problem but a vendor issue.

Essentially molded cables are always purchased from a vendor of sorts.
It would be nice if companies made all the cables "in-house", but they dont and really its not necessary.
I have been selling cables for 30 years and I can tell you that even the best cable makers in the world have tragic failures.

All that is needed is for someone to note how many cables are bad from a certain vendor and switch vendors if needed.
Cables are dirt cheap.

No one would ever skimp on quality as super premium cables are the near same price as junk ones.

I am quite certain that each and every failure is logged and batches are checked for quality as problems come up.

This is why its super important for all failures to be reported to JJP ASAP, no matter how small, so that they can control the quality and make changes as necessary.

JJP is still a new company and often vendors lie about their ability to deliver a quality product in order to gain their business.
JJP as with us all will live and learn over time and make the hard decisions.

Super premium or cheap junk cables, if they are bad just replace and move on to the next challenge....

#1548 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballer0415:

I think I explained most of the rules in either this thread or the Hobbit Rulesheet thread. But here are the basics for Into the Fire and Smaug mb.
Into the Fire: Stage 1 = collect enough members to light the super jackpot which is collected at the left ramp. The stand up targets (9 of them), 2 spinners, 2 ramps, left hole, and captive ball all represent a member. Collecting super jackpot adds a ball into play and begins Stage 2. Stage 2 = hit 3 drop targets to raise the Warg. Hit the Warg. Repeat this cycle 5 times. Super jackpot is collected at the captive ball and adds a ball into play and begins Stage 3. Stage 3: hit 10 beasts as they randomly pop up. Every beast but the bottom left will potentially pop up. After hitting 10 beasts, both the Goblin and Orc will both stand up and you have to collect the jackpot by shooting through the two beasts and hitting the captive ball. This collets the super jackpot and advances to Stage 4. Stage 4: shoot a ramp to raise three beasts (warg, goblin, orc). Hit the beasts 15 times total. Ideally, this would mean 5 ramp shots and hitting each beast when they pop up. However, each ramp shot raises all 3 beasts again even if all haven't been collected since the last ramp shot. After collecting all 15 beasts, you then shoot the super jackpot at the right ramp, which adds a ball into play and advances the player to Stage 5. Stage 5: victory laps! The goal is to collect all 15 members at increasing point values. Once again, the 15 members are the 9 stand ups, 2 ramps, 2 spinners, left hole, and captive ball. You will know you are in victory laps when you hear the awesome music and Bilbo and Gandalf flying on the some animals over a valley.
Smaug mb: collect enough of the ramps, holes, and spinners. Then whenever you see the MAN targets lit red, you are close to defeating smaug. Hit any MAN target, which then lights the ARF targets. Hit any of those targets to relight the MAN targets. Hit MAN targets again and then hit one of the two remaining ARF targets. Repeat step one more time. Then finally, the right ramp will be the only jackpot lit indicating that the ball will be diverted to the windlance. The player then must press the ring button and the first switch that needs to be hit is the lit stand up target that is red (one of the ARF targets) indicating Smaug's missing scale. You will know when you hit the right one
If you don't hit the right target, then the player must hit a MAN target and reload the right ramp and try to hit the missing scale. Good luck! Easy to do without beast frenzy going, very hard to do with it going. FYI.

Well done ! Thank you so much.

#1549 3 years ago
Quoted from lukewells:

So things are not going the best with my Hobbit so far.
I'd like to make it clear, that I still do think it is a fantastic game (in theory) but there are a lot of annoyances making the ownership experience not so good right now. I documented a bunch of them in video below, is there a good way to share this info with JJP so they can look at addressing some of the issues?
1) Coils melting
There is clearly a bug with the pop-ups. If the switch triggers multiple times (because the "troll" target switches a little shoddy and vibrate back and forth quickly, even after multiple attempts to adjust them) then it keeps pulsing the power to the coils (so it seems) Eventually the coil melts, it's hard to tell there is even anything wrong, until it’s too late and you have a pop-up error it won't go down anymore.
My Warg melted after 24 games, and my Orc melted after 125 games. There should be a safety timeout in the software at the very least to stop it melting coils.
2) Balls falling off the far left wireform all the time.
This one seems like such a bad design, no idea why it doesn’t have sides like the other wireforms, which would make it so much more reliable. Trying to adjust this wireform perfectly is so frustrating. On mine, the ramp is bad and has a lip which causes the ball to ski-ramp off the wireform, over the ball save post, and down the drain
3) Ball hangups
On pretty much every machine I own, there are little clear plastics attached with angle brackets (either from the factory – or as operator service kits) that deflect balls away from areas in which they can get stuck. On Hobbit, there are a few places where the ball can hang (and have happened to me a few times) so it looks like we need some deflectors to fix them (I have some photos of ball hangs) I think they are made worse by the popups and drop targets sometimes launching the balls in the air.
4) Inability to “rescue” a ball mid game.
On most pins, you can “pause” by opening the coin door, removing the glass and then returning a stuck ball to the shooter lane (especially important in competitions) but on the Hobbit, when you close the coin door (in order to be able to put the glass back on) it immediately fires the ball out, so you can never save them.
5) Playfield lamps “freeze” or crash
During a long game, the playfield lamps will eventually freeze up (some on, some off) and will not return to working until the game is power cycled. I have been told to try swapping the USB cable ports, so I will try this when my game is working again.
6) Parts breaking or falling off
I am collecting a small number of screws of unknown origin in the bottom of my cab, again I am only on 125 plays, so this should not be happening already. Additionally I am finding bits of broken clear plastic appearing in the bottom of the cab (see video) - the source of these is the pop-up mechs, there is a clear plastic U shaped light guide under all the popups, these are clearly not strong enough and are smashing to bits. My first one dropped broken pieces into the bottom of the cab in less than 24 games. This part needs replacing/upgrading on all 4 targets
7) Lights crash if you perform a GI test
After a GI test, playfield lamps will not work at all until the game is power cycled. This is of course a minor issue for software.
8 ) Can’t set the time.
No matter how many times I re-set the time to the correct time in the menu’s next time I check , the time has changed +/- 2 hours. The minutes are always right but the hours change themselves and are never right.
9) Can’t properly disable broken features
If something breaks (see melted coils above) you can disable some of the mechanisms in settings, but there is no broken feature compensation, therefor, the game cannot be played properly and advanced to Into the Fire etc. This is more noticeable on my machine due to the length of time it has spent with popups not working, so therefor not fully playable
10) Rails under playfield do not line up
The rails (with black rubber stoppers) were clearly designed to line up with and “stop” on the lock down bar mech, but the rails miss the mech and are instead leaning on the cab. The problem with this is that it is going to over time damage the front of the cabinet
11) The popups can swallow a ball if they drop down when a ball is at the front (I understand this is going to be fixed)
Obviously these issues are of different levels of importance, but I would like to see some of the more frustrating problems resolved sooner rather than later. I’ve not had much dealing with JJP so far, so I will give them the benefit of the doubt, and assume they will fix things for now (unlike a certain other pinball manufacturer that is completely incapable of dealing with feedback)
Video links :-
» YouTube video
» YouTube video

Hi There,

You are stating that the ball is leaving the left wire because it is using the loop as a jump.
Your video shows the ball off the rails BEFORE it gets to that loop.
I would check to see if the ball is hitting that ramp mechanism (on right side) (just before it makes that final plunge to the loop). I had this issue with mine, so I moved that rail a bit (or the other one) and all is well, no issues.

#1550 3 years ago
Quoted from Sammy31:

Hi There,
You are stating that the ball is leaving the left wire because it is using the loop as a jump.
Your video shows the ball off the rails BEFORE it gets to that loop.
I would check to see if the ball is hitting that ramp mechanism (on right side) (just before it makes that final plunge to the loop). I had this issue with mine, so I moved that rail a bit (or the other one) and all is well, no issues.

On some of the games the ball is getting a little boost into the air from hitting the last cross member in the wireform.

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