(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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#1351 3 years ago
Quoted from goldant:

Same here with the lockbar not lining up with the rails

Same here.

#1352 3 years ago
Quoted from lukewells:

It certainly sounds like I need to go over the whole under-playfield and tighten everything up. Not sure why there is a such a big problem with lose screws on these, as it is affecting local people as well, not just people that have had them shipped long distances.
My wireform is defective, as it does have 2 prongs that stick out too far (on the main two straights that the ball runs down) so I don't think any amount of adjusting mine will make it 100%, so needs a replacement.
I am interested to know if others are having the cracked plastics under the beast mechs, it can't just be me surely.
Also I have not heard of others getting melted coils as of yet?

Hi Luke,

just thought I'd post another UK perspective (since I think yours is the only UK feedback I've seen?)

I'm 150 games in and ....

The loose screw/nut problem isn't a distance thing as I've just randomly checked a dozen or more under the playfield and they're all fine.
A few up top were a bit loose allowing the plastics to move though.

Have just started having a problem with the Orc beast not popping up (though it tries) - thought it might be a similar problem to what you had, but just had a look at it and it seems to be the beast rod (rather than the coil plunger) binding on the frame. thinking that maybe the mech has moved position where it fastens to the coil plunger. Hopefully I can adjust this without removing the whole mech - those wires down the middle make it look like removing either the Orc or Goblin will be a right pain.

Also checked the plastics under the mechs (not an easy task in situ!) and they're all fine and the service rails aren't too bad either - left one OK and the right is half on.

Got the flap curl on the ramps though (but it sounds like that's universal!)

Also had to remove all 4 beast flaps and file/smooth the edges (particularly at the back) as these were starting to mark the PF - might have to put some extra mylar round the back of the holes (could do with being done from the factory really).

Apart from that - loving the game (PS were did you get 1.30p from ;o) )

Cheers
Geoff

#1353 3 years ago

Don't the four "beasts" have mylar completely around them from the factory like the trolls in MM?

#1354 3 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

Don't the four "beasts" have mylar completely around them from the factory like the trolls in MM?

Yes. ( MM didn't come that way )

LTG : )

#1355 3 years ago
Quoted from Lippy427:

Have just started having a problem with the Orc beast not popping up (though it tries) -

At the bottom of the mechanism is a locknut, loosen it, and turn the rubber stopper on the other side up a bit and retighten the locknut.

LTG : )

#1356 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes. ( MM didn't come that way )
LTG : )

hmm, mine doesn't - mylar along the front and 3/4 of the way up the side - getting narrower as it goes back.

#1357 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

At the bottom of the mechanism is a locknut, loosen it, and turn the rubber stopper on the other side up a bit and retighten the locknut.
LTG : )

cheers - will take a look

#1358 3 years ago

Just saw Jacks announcmemt regarding fixes on youtube. I think it's great that they really care about the machine and the customers.

#1359 3 years ago
Quoted from tatapolus:

Just saw Jacks announcmemt regarding fixes on youtube. I think it's great that they really care about the machine and the customers.
ยป YouTube video

It's all good news until he tells you that if you have the bad wireforms, you need to pay for a new one......

I'm fairly sure it's not my fault that my game was shipped with a bad wireform now is it?

#1360 3 years ago
Quoted from lukewells:

It's all good news until he tells you that if you have the bad wireforms, you need to pay for a new one......

they should be free to the owners of games that came with out the corrected wire form and $89 dollars for any one who wants a spare one. my game has the new wire form i don't have the beast plastics though!

#1361 3 years ago

I have mixed feelings on the wire form and having to pay for it. Obviously the fact that they came out with a new one means that the old design left a bit to be desired, so it should be sent free of charge. On the other hand, the main problem with the original wire form is the fact that the ball would pop off and often get stuck between the end of the wire form exit and the cabinet. However, the stuck ball issue is fixed with the rubber post that they are giving everyone for free (I already added one myself and it has eliminated the stuck balls).

The ball will still come off my wireform at times and land in various locations, including on top of the sling plastic, but not too often.

#1362 3 years ago

Is the wire form the same as the previous one just with that little rail there on the left?

edit: as in, did they change anything else to affect the ball bouncing? If so, then what would be the issue with the post? The bouce of the rubber versus the metal rail?

#1363 3 years ago

Does anyone know if these fix kits will be sent to registered owners automatically or if they have to be requested by a support ticket?

I have the older wire form, but I have not yet had any issues with it. I have had the ball get stuck under the troll flap more than once.

#1364 3 years ago
Quoted from lukewells:

It's all good news until he tells you that if you have the bad wireforms, you need to pay for a new one......
I'm fairly sure it's not my fault that my game was shipped with a bad wireform now is it?

I completely agree with you. The replacement should be provided to you free of charge.

Nevertheless, you can fix your wireform pretty inexpensively. First, install the post that Rob referred to. Second, cut off (or grind off) those nubs on your wireform with a Dremel rotary tool to eliminate the ski jump effect. Third, bend the loop up a little with a pair of pliers. That should solve the problem.

#1365 3 years ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

I completely agree with you. The replacement should be provided to you free of charge.
Nevertheless, you can fix your wireform pretty inexpensively. First, install the post that Rob referred to. Second, cut off (or grind off) those nubs on your wireform with a Dremel rotary tool to eliminate the ski jump effect. Third, bend the loop up a little with a pair of pliers. That should solve the problem.

so we should be taking a dremel an pliers to our $8,000 dollar games?

#1366 3 years ago

I'm not in on a hobbit, but one thing I give Jack credit for is having the balls to admit that there are issues with their pin, and actually address it. It may not be a perfect fix for everyone, but you don't see a lot of manufactures stepping up and admitting it.

#1367 3 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

so we should be taking a dremel an pliers to our $8,000 dollar games?

If balls are skipping over the kickback switch and you want to play the game, it seems like you have two options. Either pay JJP for the replacement wireform, or fix it yourself.

PS - The Dremel tip was specifically targeted at Luke's wireform, because of the extended nubs on his wireform with the ski-jump effect visible in his YouTube video. I don't think everyone else's wireform looks exactly like that (at least I hope not).

#1368 3 years ago
Quoted from RJL:

Does anyone know if these fix kits will be sent to registered owners automatically or if they have to be requested by a support ticket?

On the support desk there will be a pull down menu when ready.

LTG : )

#1369 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

On the support desk there will be a pull down menu when ready.
LTG : )

Thanks!

#1370 3 years ago

LTG,

quick drains on the left will sometimes not activate the kickback even when lit. Any thoughts? Is this being addressed in new code?

Thanks,

#1371 3 years ago

I don't own hobbit. But I get the reasoning for charging for the wireform and have no problem with it. It could be worse, could have to pay for a color rom for the display

#1372 3 years ago
Quoted from RJL:

Does anyone know if these fix kits will be sent to registered owners automatically or if they have to be requested by a support ticket?

And it is on the support desk now.

LTG : )

#1373 3 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

quick drains on the left will sometimes not activate the kickback even when lit. Any thoughts?

First one I heard of. You might ask on the WOZ/Hobbit forum. Sort out if the switch isn't seeing enough of the ball or if it's software related.

Thank you for your help,
LTG : )

#1374 3 years ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

If balls are skipping over the kickback switch and you want to play the game, it seems like you have two options. Either pay JJP for the replacement wireform, or fix it yourself.
PS - The Dremel tip was specifically targeted at Luke's wireform, because of the extended nubs on his wireform with the ski-jump effect visible in his YouTube video. I don't think everyone else's wireform looks exactly like that (at least I hope not).

Widening the prongs that stick out at the bottom of the loop 1/8" (basically widen the loop at the bottom) and bending the loop up about 3/16" to 1/4" will have a positive effect without grinding. this allows the ball to duck under the loop.

I havent had a game in my collection yet that didnt need tweaking of the wireforms.
(Remember On the TZ we all gave up fixes and added a magnet to the diverter).

Most games need a little quality time to get them close to perfect and somewhat reliable.

I expect JJP games to be no differet

The HUGE difference is the way that games are supported during warranty, and after.
The team at JJP is incredible!

#1375 3 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

LTG,
quick drains on the left will sometimes not activate the kickback even when lit. Any thoughts? Is this being addressed in new code?
Thanks,

Maybe fiddle with the delay setting or check the switch and actuator.

#1376 3 years ago

I don't have a problem with the fixes offered. I don't need a whole new wire form when the post fixes it already. I think the post is plenty reasonable along with the other fixes. I'm waiting to see the fix for the ramp flats though. Anyway, good job on jjps part addressing the issues and even posting a public notice on YouTube. Well done jjp.

#1377 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

I don't own hobbit. But I get the reasoning for charging for the wireform and have no problem with it. It could be worse, could have to pay for a color rom for the display

Or getting the left wireform coded out in the next update

#1379 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Widening the prongs that stick out at the bottom of the loop 1/8" (basically widen the loop at the bottom) and bending the loop up about 3/16" to 1/4" will have a positive effect without grinding. this allows the ball to duck under the loop.
I havent had a game in my collection yet that didnt need tweaking of the wireforms.
(Remember On the TZ we all gave up fixes and added a magnet to the diverter).
Most games need a little quality time to get them close to perfect and somewhat reliable.
I expect JJP games to be no differet
The HUGE difference is the way that games are supported during warranty, and after.
The team at JJP is incredible!

Please note, I was referring to Luke's specific wireform. The photos below, taken from Luke's video, show exactly what I was referencing.

The two nubs on the left and right of the wireform rails are just slight extensions from the vertical wires spot-welded to the loop, and on Luke's machine, they are actually tipped upwards, causing the ball to ski-jump up and over the loop. That particular problem, which is pretty common -- spot-welded wireform parts don't typically have very tight tolerances -- can easily be fixed in less than 15 minutes with a Dremel rotary tool. Just cut or grind down to the blue lines on the magnified mark-up in the lower photo.

Installation of the post on the left will prevent balls skipping off the wireform rails and passing the loop on the left hand side. Bending the loop up slightly with pliers will increase the likelihood that balls will pass through the loop instead of skip over the top.

Just a little added TLC for a hand-built machine. Nothing radical. This is a classic example of tweaking the gameplay on a pinball machine.

TH_Wireform_(resized).jpg

TH_Wireform_Mark-up_(resized).jpg

#1380 3 years ago

I added my own post to my original wireform, bent it up a bit, and filed down the small horizontal bar in front of the hoop so the ball doesn't 'jump' off it. Easy fixes. My wireform works perfect each time, and I'd never think of changing it out. I suggest just getting the post they are offering and doing what I did. Pretty hard to screw it up to be honest.

#1381 3 years ago

Major respect for Jack making a video himself. I get the cost for the wireform.

I challenge Gary Stern to post a video on YouTube addressing the defective playfield ghosting issue. He definitely responded the same day regarding his death hoax, but sure is quiet about Stern's quality problems. Your move, Gary.

#1382 3 years ago

Thanks JJP, glad you made the update kit! I really do appreciate it.

#1383 3 years ago

hi geoff,

Quoted from Lippy427:

Have just started having a problem with the Orc beast not popping up (though it tries) - thought it might be a similar problem to what you had, but just had a look at it and it seems to be the beast rod (rather than the coil plunger) binding on the frame. thinking that maybe the mech has moved position where it fastens to the coil plunger.

the reason for binding could be, that the pop-up drive coil plunger (6) and the pop-up guide shaft do not run parallel.
the reason is highly likely the slingshot plunger return spring (14).
the winding is stuck partially between bell armature stop (11) and the pop-up drive coil plunger (6) causing the plunger to sit crooked.

loosen the 10-32 nylon stop nut a bit, push up the spring and hold it there, retighten the nut - that should do the trick.

hobbit-pop-up-assemblies_(resized).jpg

#1384 3 years ago

Hi gang.

If I buy an THLE right now can I expect to encounter most of the issues/needed tweaks?

Or would machines with later build dates on them have less of these issues ?

If so what build date would I be wanting to look for?

Thanks

#1385 3 years ago

My Hobbit which I received a couple weeks ago already had the new wireform on it but not the pop-up fix. (Only 1 stuck ball in pop-ups so far though). Other thing Jack should have mentioned is that the screws on the underside are not quite 'all the way' tight. I tightened every one of them before my first game. Actually was missing 2 screws overall.

Other than that, I've had zero issues and have been extremely happy with my purchase.

I hope that helps.

#1386 3 years ago

Not news for code 1.3?

#1387 3 years ago

I believe they had a small delay because they found a few bugs last week and Keith was at Replay from Thursday.

Last I heard was that it will be out this week.

#1388 3 years ago

So where do we buy the new wire form if we want it?

#1389 3 years ago
Quoted from viaxx:

hi geoff,

the reason for binding could be, that the pop-up drive coil plunger (6) and the pop-up guide shaft do not run parallel.
the reason is highly likely the slingshot plunger return spring (14).
the winding is stuck partially between bell armature stop (11) and the pop-up drive coil plunger (6) causing the plunger to sit crooked.
loosen the 10-32 nylon stop nut a bit, push up the spring and hold it there, retighten the nut - that should do the trick.

Cheers - that's what I was hoping was the problem and was attempting to describe above...

Had a look at it last night and have now got it working 100%
There's quite a lot of adjustment in that plate ((5) in the diagram) and it took several attempts since it has to be done with the PF up which changes all the geometry.

Cheers
Geoff

#1390 3 years ago

I was hoping for a ramp flap fix in this kit too, but this will do. Big shout out to JJP for doing this.

#1391 3 years ago

yep - on Jack's video it looks like that hobbit already has the blue spring steel flaps fitted

#1392 3 years ago

JJP is really distancing themselves from Stern right now. I love pinball period, but while Stern seems to be cutting corners and doing everything they can to make their pins cheaper and faster, Jack is making tanks that are gorgeous, fun to play, and their support is fantastic.

#1393 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeekayjay:

Hi gang.
If I buy an THLE right now can I expect to encounter most of the issues/needed tweaks?
Or would machines with later build dates on them have less of these issues ?
If so what build date would I be wanting to look for?
Thanks

I believe that any game built after July 15, 2016 should have the fixes.

11
#1394 3 years ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

JJP is really distancing themselves from Stern right now. I love pinball period, but while Stern seems to be cutting corners and doing everything they can to make their pins cheaper and faster, Jack is making tanks that are gorgeous, fun to play, and their support is fantastic.

Agreed. Stern is coming off as the cookie cutter pinball manufacturer, with Made in China build quality- and JJP is representing what a real American handcrafted product should be. Jack, please don't change what you are doing. It's working.

#1395 3 years ago
Quoted from yonizzell:

I believe that any game built after July 15, 2016 should have the fixes.

Yes.. great timing as i am getting my game tomorrow!!!

#1396 3 years ago
Quoted from bemmett:

So where do we buy the new wire form if we want it?

Call JJP. Ask for parts.

LTG : )

#1397 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

I don't own hobbit. But I get the reasoning for charging for the wireform and have no problem with it. It could be worse, could have to pay for a color rom for the display

Can you share the reason then? It seems unfair, that just because I was assigned a lower serial number Smaug, I get the defective ramp, and people who were assigned a higher serial number Smaug get the re-designed ramp.

IF the original ramps are just fine, then they would not have re-designed them mid run

It's a bit of a kick in the teeth with all the other problems I have been having over such a short period of time.

I think it's important to note, while someone in the US might think "hey it's only 89 bucks", as I am in the UK, the extortionate shipping costs, plus customs fee, plus import duty would end up with the wireform costing $160-180

#1398 3 years ago
Quoted from lukewells:

Can you share the reason then? It seems unfair, that just because I was assigned a lower serial number Smaug, I get the defective ramp, and people who were assigned a higher serial number Smaug get the re-designed ramp.
IF the original ramps are just fine, then they would not have re-designed them mid run
It's a bit of a kick in the teeth with all the other problems I have been having over such a short period of time.

Pinball machines are hand-made. As improvements are discovered they will be immediately added to the assembly line.
Early adopters/purchasers know that there will be updates later on in the run.

First to pay=first to play (first to wait for code updates, improvements etc. But it is fun to be a part of the development phase, I think).

I have every confidence that JJP will solve each and every issue you have had. I also imagine they will give you a newer style wireform by asking if you agree to send your old one back to them (a little bit of fair give and take).

I rarely see these days any company that is as willing as JJP to find compromise and success on the side of the purchaser.
I also find it incredible that the JJP staff including Jack himself is continually available for contact via phone or email as needed, no matter if its a single home purchaser, or a big distributor.

The wireform per se is not defective. But there is a possible ball hang issue that is being resolved via a free update kit.
With a little tweaking my wireform works 100% and I dont even have a post on it for the ball hang issue, nor have I ground any of the metal off of it.

One thing that has come up I think, during manufacture, is the playfield pitch. It is almost universally agreed that the factory setting of 6.5 degrees is too shallow for "exciting" game-play. Games that are factory tested at 6.5 degrees will need user adjustments on site to play properly at say 7 degrees or higher until the factory makes changes on the line if ever.

Pinball has always been subject to interpretation. A lot of route operators tweak and adjust their games in an effort to keep their paying customers happy, they almost always speed up the games a bit.

The new era of "home" users had led to a different approach with customised game-play and custom modifications.

There is no such thing as perfection in a pinball machine, as always it's what seems perfect for you, and a little bit of randomness leads to more fun!

Now pinball can be a personalized interactive art form? I guess it always was for a lot of people.

#1399 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The wireform per se is not defective. But there is a possible ball hang issue that is being resolved via a free update kit.

Totally agree. However Luke isn't getting ball hang issues (I reckon he'd be happy if he was). He's getting air balls off the end of his ramp - which in his case does look to be defective.

As others have said - hopefully Luke and JJP will get this sorted to both their satisfactions.

Cheers
Geoff

(PS Orc decided to go back into hiding during a particularly good/long Into the Fire mode - not been seen since. Looks like I'll be getting the spanners out again)

#1400 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The wireform per se is not defective.

But they are poorly designed such that some have burrs on the end that cause the ball to hop. Some have cross members that hit ball before it reaches the drop. Both of these contribute to ball hopping. Sometimes ball hops against side rail, but that hiding spot is being fixed. Other times the ball sails across the slingshot plastic and drains. Both should be eliminated with the new wireform design. Not having the new form equals continued problem with the second issue of ball hopping plastic and draining. I see it happening a lot.

I am of the camp the wire form should have been included in the kit for free. Evidently I will be buying the new wireform.

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