Want your Jersey Jack Pinball Slingshot to have more power? This mod will do exactly that!!! Here is a video showing it working on default slingshot power in the menu so you can go higher but I did adjust it to be set at default setting. Very easy install just desolder slingshot wires and put module in the circuit. Input is the wires from the game output to the coil. Kit comes with two black boxes to do two slingshot.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1372-led-pinball-/09478-jersey-jack-pinball-slingshot-mod

That's possible aswell. thanks!!

thanks for your message, im searching for the Art of Pinball version of the book. but I don't think I will be able to find one.

thanks for your reactions!

okay, first time I have had issues with JJP popups. Orc won't register a hit at all. Did a visual on the leaf switch and it looks fine. Also checked wires going to/from the mech. Any advice on how to tackle this one before I start taking stuff apart?

Screenshot 2023-10-04 at 1.39.11 PM (resized).png

HaHa. Good one.

On top of the playfield remove two clips and two springs holding trap door top on, have a big magnet nearby to catch them when they fly. Remove trap door.

Under the playfield, unhook three connectors. Remove five screws. Remove the whole unit. Repair wire worn/cut by the moving parts.

Reassemble in reverse order.

It's Miller time !

If you are really lucky, you won't have to tear the mech apart to fix this.

LTG : )

This sounds like a character builder. Any advice to make it so this doesn't happen again? Sounds like you have done this one before!

Make it last longer, no such this as never happen again.

Add a washer to limit mech squeezing wires.

LTG : )

washerhobbitfix (resized).jpg

Guy,

Could you post a photo of the ramp decal set before installation. I don't think they are the same as decals one applies to model airplanes.

These are peel and stick. The following link should provide you with each location numbered on the sheet set. There are two ramp decals that are included in a seperate sheet that go on the inner part of the middle ramps and a square target for the capture ball.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lBnZsv6VH4rfHEFne9dNwIaA0EXHo8te/view?usp=sharing

If one purchases Precision Pinball Products flipper bat, do you also recommend including the bushing? If you include the bushing, how difficult is it to install?

To gain the full benefit, you need the bushing. Installation requires removal of the flipper mech from below the playfield. This is because the old bushing has nuts on the backside. Once installed, you'll not have to touch the mech again. All future adjustments are made from the top, including very precise adjustments of angle.

I have them! They are easy to install. I would order the bushing aswell to make it work perfect. I also have a different axle… but I can’t find it on the website anymore.

If you go to the Precision Pinball Product website, it looks like you have to order the bats & bushing. If you just want the bats (3 for Hobbit), it appears there are no rods included.

You guys! After owning this game for 3 years... I FINALLY beat the "Defeat of Azog" mode! I have tried countless times and never could get all the way through. That has to be one of the hardest (and coolest) modes I have ever played / beaten...

If you haven't done it - You have to shoot one of the holes as the 2nd to last shot. And when you do... it holds the ball in there while the Azog / Thorn Death scenes play on the screen... Very cool... Kind of like when you kill the dragon - And the game goes dead and you get to watch Smaug die.

This game - So much to do... I have been to TABA; but never beaten "Barrell escape," or "Battle of the five armies"...
I think I also have never beaten "The Bait" or "Queer Lodgings"

When I think I am tired of this game - it has a way of bringing out the fun again.

Thank you, I've never seen this and plan on dedicating this weekend to it lol.
I've owned mine for ~7 years. I've only been to TABA twice (and made it past). To this day I still have not "beaten" BOTFA though made it "through it". There are also several modes I have not beaten (or at least was able to watch completed due to a stacked MB) which this machine is polluted with.

Well this was a fun "authentic" project. I have an authentic Weta Thorins map so I scanned it. I then captured Bilbos handwriting. I created a combination of both and created a ring surround. Printed on Vinyl, covered with gloss laminate and cut it out and stuck her down. Attached PDF is ready to print. (Probably going to print another as I didn't center the button very well).

20231015_200359 (resized).jpg20231015_214700 (resized).jpgHobbit_lockbar.pdf

Love it

Okay took it apart and found the problem. Wire came off one of the contacts on the leaf switch. So the question now is did it come off the near or far side of the diode? Any intel on this would be appreciated. I am assuming the closer one, but you know what assuming does! My luck is I will guess and put it all back together to find out it was the far contact

Btw, I dread putting this back together. Could they pack anymore stuff under this playfield????!!!

Building character I am!

Screenshot 2023-10-22 at 5.54.57 PM (resized).png

Look at the diode. See the silver band near one end ? The white wire goes on the other end, always the black end of the diode.

LTG : )

Thanks for your wisdom (again) Lloyd. You are a good man. The world needs more like you.

Dave

LTG is the BEST!!

The power supply on my game went caput. Has anyone else had that happen on this game? It has less than 1k plays. Why would this happen? I think I recall one or a few say this but wonder if this is widespread for this particular PS.

Crap happens.

I never worry about the why. Unless it happens again right away which isn't likely with a power supply. Just fix and move on.

LTG : )

Yeah I get that Lloyd and that’s why I already purchased a new ps (came today). Just wondering if more people had issues with their Hobbit ps. Could indicate something else than general failure.

Understood.

In my 8 1/2 years of jjp tech support. It happened. But was rare. Not what I'd call a common issue.

Same on Pinside. Happens, but not often.

So I'd say it isn't a problem with the game. Just premature power supply issue.

LTG : )

Hi, I have this problem (the line stays static on the bottom of the screen all the time) with my mini screen since the day I bought it, did someone had the same issue? How to repair it? Buying a new LCD?

Thanks

IMG_20231101_184149.jpg

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800310749088.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.721c562em7maWh&algo_pvid=b9d3bbb9-c9f5-4b46-9078-ca3536c93cff&algo_expid=b9d3bbb9-c9f5-4b46-9078-ca3536c93cff-21&btsid=0ab50f4915863867669754173ed8a4&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0%2Csearchweb201602_%2Csearchweb201603_&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

LTG : )

YOU AGAIN!

Thank you soo much! Just ordered!

Anyone else watch this auction? I believe bidding ended at $6900 - didn't meet the reserve (only shown after auction ended). What a load of crap. First of all, no where did it state a reserve was set. I'm sorry but if you know what you HAVE to have out of an item to let it go then either start the bidding at that amount or semi close to the amount. And good lord, look at how chewed up the inner cabinet walls are. How many times has the playfield been raised? lol

https://bidderbros.hibid.com/lot/174150561/hobbit-pinball--black-arrow-edition?ref=catalog

Sorry you didn't get it, that would have been a good deal.

I just bought The Hobbit LE with code 2.96 and want to upgrade to code 3.12. Is it ok to install «Full Install 3.12», or do I need the updates between 2.96 and 3.12? Thanks

You can always do a full install to the latest version. Make sure you backup your settings, just in case.

You bought a 240 when Lloyd suggested 120. Does size matter?

No

SSD bigger is fine. No need to waste money on huge. I wouldn't go smaller. You want to get everything on it.

LTG : )

Thank you!

The good news is JJP has finally started putting brand name hard drives in their machines, my GF has a Kingston SSD.

Hobbit owners: If you have never changed your CR2032 battery, it is probably time... they are only supposed to last 3 years in this application. You don't want to wait for it to die. It will be a bit of a headache to get it going again, and probably will happen at just the wrong time when you need the machine up and playing.

Remember to power on the machine before doing the swap. Also, the instructions in the manual make it sound like you can just pull the old one out after putting some tape on it. That's not going to work. Put the tape on, but you will need to pull the little tab that is towards the front of the machine forward towards the front of the machine to unlatch the coin and let it pop up. Be gentle. It does not take much.

Also, pro tip: Do it lefthanded. If you try to do it right handed, the CPU fan will bite your knuckles. With the power on, that fan is a hummin'.

Have a great day!

Any CR2032 will work? Or are some better than others?

Changing that battery has been on my to do list forever. I'm pretty sure mine is original, Factory Date: 04/22/2016. So it's just over 7 years old. Tick, tick, tick... For what it's worth, I've never had a CMOS battery die in a PC. One of these days I'll change the damn thing.

Just changed mine as @sheprd’s post prompted me. It was original batt tested 2.79.
Put a new ever ready in there.
Changing tip. One finger on hold down clip one hand on magnet stick! Boom instant removal.
Born on date 6/30/2016
image (resized).jpg

They are all the same and they are all sealed so you don't have to ever worry about them leaking.

I've had plenty of them die in PCs, you loose all the BIOS settings.

Anyone have and possibly fix an issue with balls bouncing into the right outlane from the right inlane? It's especially annoying when it happens from the right habitrail dropping into the inlane then bouncing out and into the outlane. Considering bending the rail in the inlane.

This is well known.

The balls are spinning, defy gravity and roll away.

The end loops of the wireforms need to be bent upwards (away from the playfield) about 1/4" more than what is already there, or a little more to defeat the spinning.

Its super easy to do, just stuff a bigger nut driver (1/2" or better) into the loops (both of them) one at a time, and fold the loops back upon themselves until they are bent higher off the playfield.

Do this for the left and the right wireform.

I have this issue as well. Thank you for this advice!

Yes, do this!
The battery lasted 10 years in my WoZ, but when it died it was a real PITA to swap out. I actually couldn't figure it out, but thankfully Mike Fox was nice enough to stop by and do it for me.
Thanks Mike! Now that is some great JJP service.

I so happened to just change mine yesterday out of the blue I said time for a cell change,the magnet idea is a very good one.clip should be mentioned in instructions.
Goes without say mark date of change on box cover.

I believe clip was mentioned

Thanks for the information, that did happen to me from time to time

However, English not being my narive language, I must say I'm a little bit struggling to vizualize what you mean. That, or my understanding is wrong, because I can't figure out how to fold, you need some leverage for the nut driver, don't you ? Care to share a picture ?

Cheers

Where is the disk battery located? I hope it's in the back box. I hate lifting the playfield.

just replace mine in my woz, less than 300 plays. had to splice wires and cut off some old connectors to get it to work, so don't throw away your old one. several different cpu's were used. none that you can purchase come with all the right connectors on early models. not sure if they finally got it standardized by the time they built hobbit. mark all connectors, because you might have to do some rigging to get the standard power supply to work.