Added this new apron to my Black Arrow and really like it. Having the display where you can see it during modes is really a nice addition, especially for someone that is new to the game. VERY easy to install and well crafted. Nice addition if you have the funds. Brightness out of the box is too high. Knock it down to around 8 or so and it will look great.

I also added the sub woofer. Dollar for dollar the best mod you can do on this title, especially since you can piggyback the sub to another machine. In my case it will be GnR.

Screenshot 2023-08-06 at 1.04.27 PM (resized).png

Screenshot 2023-08-06 at 1.04.45 PM (resized).png

It’s not that bad. Follow this video.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9IaF8Ha9WZ2JcoB8A6pqEQ

LTG : )

I changed the video to my page. There is some pinball stuff. Mostly for CGC.

LTG : )

Hi there! Question about beta firmware.

I have a lovely Hobbit machine, and it is running Beta 6.

This has Scorbit still working, so I am hesitant to upgrade.

What's the final version that still has Scorbit? I think it's Beta 7.

I have been looking for a download of the Beta 7 firmware but haven't found it at all. Does anybody have it?

Thanks!
Josh

IIRC beta 9 has the ability to disable Scorbit.

Are you sure Scorebit actually works? On POTC it stopped working completely when Scorebit and JJP parted ways.

Has anyone noticed their pop up covers not being flush and causing airballs?

I think mine is a bit high in front of the right ramp. A lot of bouncy balls go up into that ramp and I just put the new ramp metals on so that's not it. Those are perfect.

The next thing in line is that pop up cover and it looks to be maybe sitting up just a tad. Just enough to send it airborne a bit up into the ramp.

Thoughts? And if that's it, how does one fix that so the cover is flush?

Is it bent ? Not flat ? Then bend it back.

Is the carriage riding too high and the flap can't sit flush with the playfield ? Then lower it. Nut and rubber stopper on bottom of the mech.

Note - they may have raised the carriage to go up and down better. Lowering it, then it might bind again. Then you need to adjust the whole mech so it works better. Raising it kind of cheated things a little.

LTG : )

Where is the most current rule sheet for TH? I went to this thread and it looks like the links to the PDF that has been created are about six years old.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-hobbit-rulesheet/page/3#post-3418867

I am trying to understand if they wizard mode was actually finished? And more info about it.

The rule sheet on that link say Wizard Mode TBD.

Thanks in advance for any advice on this one...

Dave

The one I have downloaded is Version v3.10.3 (July 29, 2020)
I'm too lazy to look but I wonder if the manual was also updated in the beta code?

When a mini wizard mode is completed it says "Victory" on the screen and you get a video.
The game doesnt stop like when you beat Smaug, it just continues. But if you have time, you can see it on the screen, or cradle a ball maybe.

I have completed all of the mini wizard modes, killed Smaug etc.

But I dont play it like that any more, nor do I care about the score.

I play to complete the 31 modes against the status screen, not just play them or time them out, complete them.

Every game is different and more of an adventure.

So far I have killed Smaug several times (not in one game), completed the first mini wizard mode, played the second several times but have not completed it & lite the 3rd one twice but never made the shot to start it.

The last version of the rulesheet I have is...

The Hobbit Rulesheet
Version v3.10.3 (July 29, 2020)

I tossed it in my dropbox for ya.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/g21x89ojgbrq27ougnq6t/Hobbit-Rulesheet.pdf?rlkey=7j4putmzuc42chicatcviu9uy&dl=0

Thanks so much!

Yeah man, enjoy!

been a problem with mine since i bought it brand new when they first got made, turned up the power a little helped some

You could try replacing the coil sleeve. I'm assuming it uses a coil with a sleeve.

I had the same behavior.

The ball was actually bouncing off the inside roof of the wireform and falling back down.

This is due to tight first bend in it. A straight shot to the top, rattles and falls back down.

It needs more of a gentle bend to work right. Its a design flaw, but it works somewhat.

I changed the bend 1/8" and had a good but nominal result.

I had a better result from adding a 1/16" washer under the front of the mech to shoot the ball at a slight angle, along the outer edge and "roll" over the top, into the horizontal area of the wireform.

Carefully adjusting the power upwards and downwards can get the VUK to be more consistant.

You milage make vary on this, to the point of adding washers to the rear of the mech to help bounce the ball onto the horizontal span.

I have tried it both ways with acceptable results.

Another behavior is that the ball will make it all the way to the second bend in the wireform, bounce off the front wall and roll all the way back down to the mech.

Opening up the second bend slightly can help with this.

I stuffed the ends of the wireform with properly fitting PVC pipe lengths to GENTLY make SMALL bends.

Being too aggressive can fail the welded joints.

Installed the decal set, very nice but I'm unsure where these goes?? I'm assuming the 3 red decals are altered ones and the square blue one is for the captive ball target but the others????

20230813_152744 (resized).jpg

Red is likely alternative option
Blue is Thorin
Runes placement guide: https://o.pinside.com/e/f5/8f/ef58fec56fd7b79c106366ccdc03f79301daa464.pdf

The other blue round on your sheet was originally for the captive ball. We all failed to let flashinstinct know this during development. So if you have a round captive or square captive your covered now. My captive is square so I put the extra round on that hidden target that was also not discussed in development. (Right outline by apron). The red ones on sheet are alternates for the dwarf targets. I personally went with the red ones and keeping the yellows as back up. Those last 2 ramp tattoos(decals) are for the inside of the left and right ramp. Even opto cutout to help.

I know where the square ones goes but not the circular one. Everything in that link you sent me is already installed.

Awesome.

Thanks.

Yeah does that target in the out lane do anything?

I have updated the guide. I had relied on JP images that show the round target between the centre ramps (as per instructions pic. The ruins sheet and the square target are now illustrated in blue lines.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lBnZsv6VH4rfHEFne9dNwIaA0EXHo8te/view?usp=sharing
hobbit-guide.pdf

If the ball hits the target in the out lane during a multiball, you will get a ball save on default settings.

I was surprised there was no sticker for the other spinner. Have you considered adding one?

Screenshot_20230813_171013_OneDrive (resized).jpg

My favorite ball save in pinball with awesome visual.
I'd swear I've gotten with just 1 ball going. Maybe I earned it?

I thought about that to. But mine has a cable on it. Could move cable a little maybe.

I have the barrel spotlights on mine, a cable is there but it's not zipped to it.

Btw, the beast installation video was golden. I was able to get all of them swapped out in about 40 minutes. Would be 30 if I did it again now that I know what I am doing

Lloyd was right about springs popping around. I took a magnet stick and put it on the spring before pulling the clip out. Worked great.

My opinion of TH after a couple weeks:

Exec Summary: Love it

Some random observations:

1) It is probably one of the best looking machines made. I would put it up there with IJ and WoZ (I know this is subjective)
2) Man the rule set is deep. I am just skimming the surface and have a lot to learn
3) Two mods for me that had the best impact were a sub woofer and the new custom apron w/the LCD
4) The sound on this machine is arguably the best sound I have owned....and I have owned a lot of pins
5) The machine is beyond heavy
6) I am not that great at hitting drop targets and it shows
7) There is no such thing as a "quick game"
8) Most people that visit go right to that game. Other choices they have are WoZ, GnR, MM, and TZ.
9) The PinSide Hobbit group is VERY helpful

It is clear to me that this game is underrated. For whatever reason there are some people out there that call TH a "snoozer" or "boring". I simply don't agree. I think there are some pretty hard shots (especially the side targets).

Overall very happy with the machine and hope to have it for a long time to come.

I don't fault people for saying it's either things honestly because it used to be or still can be. If it they played the early code it did suck. Secondly if that is not set to a steep enough pitch it's super floaty and equates to longer ball times. For that matter even being at the recommended 6.5 is still a tad floaty. Being a widebody and everything out to the sides and back I'm sure helps with that illusion as well. /shrug

I had some non pinhead people over and they had a choice between FH, TAF and LOTR and they found they preferred TH. I think the simple "facts" of the lighting being better, the big screen, the clear audio and feeling like they could play because of the longer time it takes for the ball to return to flippers. I suspect the ball to flipper time rings true for your collections as well.
"I like this one because I suck less on it"

I pretty much agree with all of your points but yeah man, that sub makes a world of a difference!

I got the mirrored gold blades only to find out my cab is too tight for them. So now I'm pondering if it's possible shave off 1mm of the inside cab. It sounds like a terrible idea, but I'm not one to easily give up! Thoughts?

Draw around them, make a pattern and use a router.

Its not too bad.

Maybe sand the side of the pf? I mean it all seems like a bad idea but....

I agree - it sounds like a terrible idea.

But I also think the treasure art blades look great and therefore no need for mirror blades.

Good luck!

How thick are they? And what are they made of?

I got black mirror blades for GNR and I thought they would be too tight . With the Playfield up , I pushed it across to one side as much as I could and then squeezed in both mirror blades and the protectors , to check the gap . Really try before you start attacking your cabinet .
If you have no choice , I would go with an orbital sander .

Would it be possible to sand the back side of the blades to reduce the thickness without affecting anything?

They are made of metal. Pics of them have been posted by another forum member some pages back. They really finish off the gold look on the Smaug Edition.

Unfortunately, there is no wiggle room between the playfield and the cab. It’s tight as hell.

The blade is about 1mm thick. I think that would be even harder.

—-

I’ll ask some local trades people if they would be up to the challenge. It would entail removing the back box from the hinges and lifting out the playfield. Then lining the inside to protect it from the saw dust. Drawing the outline of the mirror blade and then sanding off about 1mm of wood from the inside of the cab. All that seems feasible, other than being precise enough with the sanding on the depth.

I’m really bumped out that I can’t just install the mirror blades. The Smaug Edition is a such a beautiful machine with the exception of the plain black sides on the cab.

Decals installed.

20230813_154104 (resized).jpg

20230813_154112 (resized).jpg

20230813_154120 (resized).jpg

20230813_154141 (resized).jpg

20230813_154157 (resized).jpg

20230813_154218 (resized).jpg

Installed PinMonk's fan kit. Have to say, that kit is well thought out and has everything you need to do a great installation. Instructions need to be updated though for TH. They are telling you to tap into the power via the backbox vs. the computer box in the main cabinet.

Hopefully this helps with the flipper fade which I have noticed after about 20 minutes of play.

Screenshot 2023-08-20 at 6.36.21 PM (resized).png

Holy Mary mother of God - $300+?! I think the product is a great idea but for what it is and what it does - a build it yourself version is in my future:
(4) $1 - longer flipper assembly screws
(4) $5 - for bolts and nuts to mount to bracket
(1) $3 - to make 4 brackets with - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-36-in-Aluminum-Flat-Bar-with-1-16-in-Thick-800217/204604762
(1) $17 - 5v USB adjustable speed fans - https://www.amazon.com/iPower-Controller-Receiver-Playstation-Computer/dp/B0C591NBXG/ref=sr_1_12_sspa
(1) $4 - USB extension cable - https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-3-Feet-Female-Extension-108605/dp/B009GUMXDC/ref=sr_1_8

A person "could" use a 92mm version but the smaller the fan the less air movement and the louder the noise the faster it goes. 120mm is probably best.

Tools required:
Drill, drill bit, jig saw, pair of pliers to bend/shape brackets.

20 minutes or less of labor and an available USB header right under them to plug into sounds a lot more feasible to me. I've been known to be cheap

But I got a Pin Monk key chain. Seriously though I still found value. I saw your post on make your own, but appreciated the value of Pin Monk's offering too. Couple things to clear up. The cost was $210 since I really didn't care about the top flipper power. I also like the look of them a lot (Chrome brackets). I am at a point in my life where I want things kind of thought through a bit for myself. I am handy, but having the kit the way it came was really nice. In the grand scheme of things, it is a 10K'ish machine, don't mind putting in some extra $ to finish it off

I installed the Pin Monk fans on my Stranger Things and found no benefit from doing so.

I put the epic pinball coolers on my WOZ amd TH.

I have noticed that they "DO" help.

Less fade about the mid point of a long game.

Cool. Glad they work well for you.