I have a Black Arrow and no pinstadiums needed. Game is pretty bright as is. I've even considered removing the lower spot lights.

I like how the spotlights light up the Trap doors but like WOZ the 12 volt LEDs kept going out .

The game has really nice effects with the GI in certain modes (riddles in the dark dims the lights). I feel putting pinstadiums in there is a mistake. Almost a downgrade.

Just my opinion though.

I have pinstadiums on several of my pins, but not Hobbit. I agree with this statement. Some modes have some lighting effects and the playfield is lit fine the way that it is.

I never own a game with pinstadiums in them, always heard they were a ripoff.

An alternative suggestion / option would be to once again use a nylon zip tie, but instead of attaching to the VUK use the two nuts picture to clamp down the wire tie (laying flat on the plastic pastics) - using a lighter to melt the tie on each end so the head can be twisted and faces outward.

I made my own "pinstadiums". IMHO it's mandatory for TAF. That game is way too dark in native form. Secondly I did LOTR. That turned out absolutely killer.
My LED strip lights are programmable, I enabled green/white combo and dimmed it down. The way that lighting interacts with the playfield art is gorgeous.
IIRC:
~$65 for power block (shipped)
$15 for remote controlled led strip lights
$4 for aluminum L channel from Home depot
$4 rattle can paint
(Already had a glue gun)
But the whole project for under $100. Pinstadium is just too damn expensive.

Exactly. Hobbits native lighting is just damn near perfect as is.

Could you send me a link of what these are?

I made my own "pinstadiums". IMHO it's mandatory for TAF. That game is way too dark in native form. Secondly I did LOTR. That turned out absolutely killer.
My LED strip lights are programmable, I enabled green/white combo and dimmed it down. The way that lighting interacts with the playfield art is gorgeous.
IIRC:
~$65 for power block (shipped)
$15 for remote controlled led strip lights
$4 for aluminum L channel from Home depot
$4 rattle can paint
(Already had a glue gun)
But the whole project for under $100. Pinstadium is just too damn expensive.

Exactly. Hobbits native lighting is just damn near perfect as is.

I made a really cool shot the other day while playing Hobbit and I could not believe that it knew I did it!

Here's what happen...

The ball went up the left ramp, jumped over the side of ramp somehow and into the hole behind that locks the ball for Endor when the magnetic stops it. The game knew that the ball did not travel around the orbit and I was awarded a "Sneak in" on the display. Have any of you ever seen this? I was shocked when I saw it!

Yep, air-balls can "sneak" in.

Yes, sneak ins can happen on weak orbit shots.

Ok. Yeah that makes more sense, the weak obit shot because I was thinking there is no way in hell a air ball is going to happen like that again.

Great Rules!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-hobbit-target-decal-set

I just order a set myself, they really add a nice complement to the game by the looks of it.

I ordered replacement VUK armatures from pinball life.

They look completely different. They taper at the top and are the wrong lengths.... Anyone else experience this?

20230802_210341 (resized).jpg

20230802_210437 (resized).jpg

Maybe it is an upgraded part? Maybe they shipped you the wrong part by mistake? I would reach out to JJP or Pinball Life for more answers.

The one on the left looks like for an auto launch or something. Not a VUK.

The black one looks like a VUK plunger.

LTG : )

I installed mine and posted a lot of pics. Could not be happier. I would rank this decal set as a necessity.

I would say for the ramp side ones they are great, for the targets they are a must

Thanks for the list. I might run with some of these. Last night I added the sub woofer and really like it. Smaug sounds crazy cool w/a sub. Also purchased the apron and will install that today. More to come for sure. To me mod'n a machine makes the hobby fun, even though they don't add the true value, still fun to do.

One other question. Any good options for a Hobbit Topper? Any projects going on that I might be interested in?

Part 11-005009-01 (originally known as 11-5009-01) is the correct plunger for the subway diverter assembly (51-0048-00).
The VUK trough assemblies (51-0012-00 & 51-0012-01) both use VUK plunger 11-005001-00 (originally known as 11-5001-00).

Plunger 11-005009-00 (originally known as 11-5009-00) is used in the disappearing post assembly 51-0030-00.

Was there an official JJP topper?

With only 1950 units made they scratched the topper.

1950 is the total Hobbits in all models made?

Correct, No official JJP topper for Hobbit.
Lior was going to make one. Then to many games came out and he moved his focus onto other projects.

WOW! I had no clue it was that little amount. Shit 1950 is nothing! I better hold onto this one, the rules are amazing!

Isn't it?
1500 LE
1000 Smaug
750 Black Arrow
STANDARD Edition- Unknown amount Chrome base model.

Yeah. IMO that sounds right, 1950 seems way too low...

Threw out a few texts to fellow owners.
Updated my post above.
1500 LE
So, it probably close to 4000 units with the standard edition.

My le was 1272 out of 1500 .
Doug ate my certificate

IMG_20230806_033629 (resized).jpgIMG_20230806_033608 (resized).jpg

Dogs name is Doug?

Yes it is , and he lives up to his name

300 standard
750 Smaug
700 Le
150 BA
So 1900 total

They barely sold 5,000 GRLE I think NIB Are still available.

They set out to make 1500 LE but when Smaug was announced half the Le orders switched over to Smaug edition.

Did you not see my number on the certificate of 1500 LEs
Even if half switched over doesn't mean they didn't sell all the LE's
Just because some GNRs are still available doesn't mean they haven't built them all .

Sorry- That can't be right.
I am taking this from edition numbers on all plaques.
Now, did they make that many???
The LE sold out so they did a Smaug edition.
Then it sold out and they did a Black Arrow. The Black Arrows did sit available for a few years. But, by 2018 they were sold out.

Got the info from Jack!

JJP was offering For Hobbit that you could name the number you wanted if it was not already taken . This was an effort to drum up sales.

I don't think total units of any model matters in the big picture. I've said this before, but I don't ever see TH ever becoming a grail game. IIRC the differences are solely cosmetic in nature so no matter what version you bought the game play was identical. So the idea of an "LE" was kind of silly TBH.
Granted the total run numbers are relatively low, but it's also a game people love or hate. The early code gave it a ton of bad reviews. It's different looking (barren playfield) in appearance. Considering it's based on a book/movie, if you're not a Tolkien fan then it's not a "neutral" theme per say. It's truly a unique experience and the ruleset is deep. Said with zero bias, TH is probably one of the most underrated, overlooked, best bang for the buck pins out there.

Oh they built all the 5,000 GRLE and 300 standard GR.

I am fire, I am death.

20230805_204020 (resized).jpg

Anyone that buys a set in the next 5 days will be entered into a draw to win their purchase.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1054-flashinstinct/08753-the-hobbit-target-amp-ramp-decal-sets

All you need to do is purchase a set in the link above and then bump the thread below

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-hobbit-target-decal-set

IMG_3357 (resized).jpeg

Sooooo, I bought these babies.

Any pointers on the easiest way to replace them? This seems involved.

https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/the-art-of-pinball/jersey-jack-pinball-the-hobbit/replacement-sculpted-pop-up-heads-set-of-4-by-the-art-of-pinball-for-jersey-jack-pinball-machine/

Any advice appreciated...

Dave

There isn't an easiest way.

Take trap door off top of playfield, 2 clips 2 springs, have spares for when you lose them. I put a magnet nearby to catch them if/when they take off.

Under playfield disconnect connectors, 5 screws, lower the whole assembly.

Now the fun begins. Take the assembly apart until you can get at the back of the character face. Remove two screws, swap character face. Then reassemble. Then spend the next hour or two getting the whole shebang to go up and down smoothly. Lots of loosening, adjusting, tightening. I found that holding the whole frame,screws lightly loose, squeeze frame together from all four sides, then tighten the screws sometimes works best.

Stick it back in the game in reverse order you took it out in.

Only three more to go.

LTG : )

I've had these for a year, procrastinating, in fear of what you just described.

And I didn't even mention get all the wiring cables out of the way when you stick the assembly back in so they don't interfere with the up/down motion.

The only time I even think of F'ing with them is to replace a broken character face or fix a broken wire to the leaf blade switch behind the character face.

And every time I can't help but think that if they'd put the boards in the backbox instead of the huge metal box on the floor of the cabinet. They could have used the Medieval Madness troll mechs. More reliable, way easier to work on.

LTG : )

Okay, now I am depressed......I think this is going to be one of those projects I do on a -10 degree winter day when I am stuck inside. Or maybe until something breaks and I have to take it apart anyway.

Either way, thanks Lloyd for your wisdom.