Quoted from cerberusdog:

Anyone ever replaced one of the "lock" rollovers? What is involved? My "C" rollover button's stem broke and the button flipped up on playfield. JJP sold me a new button saying that's all I need. With the nipple on the end how am I supposed to get it through the sleeve? The old remnant won't pull out from the top. Before I go tinkering I'd love to know how it's supposed to be done. Thanks in advance.

Quoted from VeggiePin:

I've been looking around and can't find a stem or any type of instructions on how to fix it.

Quoted from Goronic:

If anyone is looking for action button sculpture from Lior I have an unused one in the market place.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/156578

Quoted from Days:

i was wandering, does anyone already swapped for a higher definition screen, and, it would be possible to swap the videos on the code also for higher definition ones?

Quoted from mrossman5:

Not sure about the screen, but I don't believe it's possible to change any audio/video assets with any JJP games.
See this thread about the monitor (Hobbit has a good one already)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-can-we-talk-about-replacement-lcds/page/3#post-7529662

Quoted from TOLLS:

Have a read of this thread. It has caused problems to quite a few.

Quoted from pcprogrammer:

I'm thinking of doing mirror blades on the Hobbit. Anyone with any experience with them on this machine? Just concerned about clearance and who to buy them from. I always use the plastic protectors when raising my playfield. Right now I just don't see any art blades that I love for the Hobbit.
I just put the sillyoldelf art blades on my LOTR and they are amazing but there isn't anything that impresses me that much for the Hobbit. I'm having issues with the sillyoldelf art blades bubbling up a bit, the adhesive isn't very strong on them.
I have regular mirror blades on my Stern Star Trek and they look really good on that machine. I do see gold mirrored blades for the Hobbit. Thanks for any input.

Quoted from SLRage:

Anyone else have the kill Smaug and then the game decides to not launch balls in the Vistory Lap multiball so you have to reset the game?? Happened to me around 3 times
[quoted image]

Quoted from pcprogrammer:

I'm thinking of doing mirror blades on the Hobbit. Anyone with any experience with them on this machine? Just concerned about clearance and who to buy them from. I always use the plastic protectors when raising my playfield. Right now I just don't see any art blades that I love for the Hobbit.
I just put the sillyoldelf art blades on my LOTR and they are amazing but there isn't anything that impresses me that much for the Hobbit. I'm having issues with the sillyoldelf art blades bubbling up a bit, the adhesive isn't very strong on them.
I have regular mirror blades on my Stern Star Trek and they look really good on that machine. I do see gold mirrored blades for the Hobbit. Thanks for any input.

Quoted from Ecw0930:

Anyone have any advice?

Quoted from Ecw0930:

Anyone have any advice?

Quoted from Ecw0930:

Anyone have any advice?

Quoted from Vernisious:

I wonder if your little black plastic ledge is broke?

Quoted from Vernisious:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from LTG:

Check the brackets holding the coil that pushes them up. The one on top of the coil is likely broken or the threaded posts holding it sheared off. Then check the up coil for broken wires, broken coil sleeve.
LTG : )

Quoted from LTG:

Check the brackets holding the coil that pushes them up. The one on top of the coil is likely broken or the threaded posts holding it sheared off. Then check the up coil for broken wires, broken coil sleeve.
LTG : )

Quoted from Ecw0930:

It does work sometimes. Like sometimes it worked for most of a game. Sometimes it won't work at all. Everything underneath looks identical at each target.
I'm thinking its some type of connection bc of it being intermittent.

Quoted from Ecw0930:

I've noticed the ramp guards (the metal at the entrance of the ramps) are bent up about 1/8 of an inch from the playfield. It's significant enough to notice.
I've noticed lately a lot of rattling into the ramps and airballs/bouncing balls on exit or rejects.
Is there a way to bend these back without taking the ramps off? They look to be riveted on....
Anyone have this issue?

Quoted from docdeath:

Where are the gold coins/circle discs from shown in your photo?

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Do you have the old silver ramp flaps?
They DEFINITELY curl up and stop the ball.
JJP sent out a replacement ramp flp kit with new BLACK ramp flaps.
They are MUCH stronger.
If you ask them they can send it out to you still I magine.

Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Well I got around to installing the new ramp flaps and Cliffy's. And you guys were right! It was a PITA! I like how I had to remove the 5 bank drop target assembly so I could remove the VUK assembly so I could get at the post nut under playfield to install the Balin Cliffy. I followed the advice given to me here and the job went extremely well! The 1/8" diameter semi-tubular rivets would not seal tight up against a block of hard wood so I used the butt end of my bench vice. I used the HANSON HT-174 HAND RIVET CLINCHER. There was a little flattening of the rounded top of the rivet, but it looks fine. I replaced all rubbers and waxed as well. Only thing left to do now is install beast door ball stops. amazon.com link »
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from screaminr:

Search ramp flaps , there's a bit of info , I'm sure people who have done it will offer advice .
Key posts are severely lacking in this thread .

Quoted from Ecw0930:

Wow. That sounds like a major pita!
Well damn. But it needs done.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I took me about 45 mins to remove/rebuild/clean and replace the main ramp.
You will need a rivet setting tool. Rivets seem to be a mystery for most people, but they are easy to use and set.

Quoted from DiabloRush:

As an alternative you can order a new ramp with the new flaps. About $220 IIRC. It's an option.

Quoted from Ecw0930:

I've used rivet tools, but bigger one for like boat doors and things. I think my rivet tool would be too big. I'm good with a 45 minute remove and replace. Much longer one some other machines so 45 minutes doesn't seem that bad really. Any tutorials floating around about taking it out?

eh. Would probably rather try to put the flaps on. Going to have to remove it regardless. Are they black metal?

Quoted from SLRage:

Set it a couple of years ago when I only had 2 games and played it daily. Now I can’t get over 4.5mill
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Quoted from ORF:

I had the early stainless flaps on my ramp and they were looking like a pair of "Iznogood shoes"
[quoted image]
Got the ramp powder coated when it was of anyway - couldn't find a green color to match the game colors, so went with black and reused the stickers in stead.
Made some flaps out of a heavy duty, blue stained spatula (it is costly to get parts from US to EU).
Also made some diffuser and brackets to mount the 2 LED boards on the underside of the ramp to get better visibility (lost the pictures of the process - sorry).
Did not like the stainless-lasercut-look so I'm very happy with result...
Not the best pictures but you get the idea.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from ORF:

I had the early stainless flaps on my ramp and they were looking like a pair of "Iznogood shoes"
[quoted image]
Got the ramp powder coated when it was of anyway - couldn't find a green color to match the game colors, so went with black and reused the stickers in stead.
Made some flaps out of a heavy duty, blue stained spatula (it is costly to get parts from US to EU).
Also made some diffuser and brackets to mount the 2 LED boards on the underside of the ramp to get better visibility (lost the pictures of the process - sorry).
Did not like the stainless-lasercut-look so I'm very happy with result...
Not the best pictures but you get the idea.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Very striking looking!
When shopping for ramp flap material around the world, its called "shim stock".
Machinists use it for shims as it is hard to compress it.
It also makes good springs, so its also called spring steel.
You can get silver, blue or black.
Silver is the softest and can bend, black is the hardest, blue is in the middle and is the general use ramp flap material for pinball.

Quoted from SLRage:

2,8mill in 3 days has to be a record though! Happy Flipping

Quoted from Ashram56:

- Is there a setting to extend the "hit window" for any of the beasts ? As noted above, you basically get one shot, if you miss it no second chance most of the time because of the very short duration window

Quoted from Ashram56:

A few gameplay related questions:
- What's the trick to consistently lit and access the Warg and Spider inlane ? These are kind of random, if I miss the first shot to hit the beast, I'm toasted until I luck out and hit these inlanes
- Likewise, is it possible to hit the Elf and Man drop target from a cradle position ? I tried various flipper angles, but could not find one that would work
- Is there a way for the "unlock" conditions to stack up ? For ex, once I have lit "Smaug Multiball" or "Collect all dwarves", is there a way for these to carry over to the next stage ? That would make things easier to access later arkenstone modes
- Is there a setting to extend the "hit window" for any of the beasts ? As noted above, you basically get one shot, if you miss it no second chance most of the time because of the very short duration window
Cheers

Quoted from SLRage:

Okay so my Hobbit won’t turn on this evening and just shows this screen. Any advice? TIA
[quoted image]