Yes have done those steps multiple times. Got an email back from JJP to reach out to the beta code team.

Figured but had to ask. Please up date us if you get this up and running.

TP-link wireless nano usb adapter/802.11ac WLAN.

I’m considering getting a Hobbit and have a few questions for owners of the machine. I apologize if any of these have been asked before.

1. Is there anything to look for when buying the game that could eventually go bad (WOZ light boards)?

2. Does it bother anyone that the callouts are done by an impersonator?

3. What exactly is the upper flipper for? From my eyes it doesn’t look like there is a specific shot useful from the upper flipper.

4. Are there any differences between models other than art and powdercoat color (besides black captive ball)?

Thanks!

Thank you for taking the time to write this! Very useful information. Is there any way to tell a difference between models with the early ramps and the later ones?

Wires to the pop up character can wear through from the mechanism going up and down. Put a washer on one of the screws to help this. See picture.

To remove the character assembly isn't hard. A little time consuming. Two clips and two springs to remove flap on top of the playfield. Underneath the playfield five screws and three connectors. Drop it down and fix.

Now if you take the assembly apart, plan on spending some time to get it going up and back down smoothly.

LTG : )

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Very early ramps had silver ramp flaps made out of stainless. These started curling up and making it hard for the ball to go up the ramp.

Later ones have black ramp flaps made out of spring steel. These have been rock solid.

Most if not all of the early ramp flaps have been replaced. JJP sent out a kit with new black flaps to solve the curling problem.

If you see a game with the silver flaps or buy one, JJP will send you a flap kit if you ask for it.

The ramp itself is unchanged and exactly the same on all models. Only the flaps needed replacing.

I’m not recommending the stainless over spring but I have had an LE from new with the stainless. After a few hundred games the curling is very smooth. Yes it’s lifted but I dont think if affects ball travel. It’s a convenient excuse though.
It’s not too much of a problem to change, which is why I accepted the machine. For me the stainless is just so pretty it’s definitely staying.
Just my opinion of course.

It will keep curling until it cracks when you bend it back.

I felt the same way until I had to change them out.

Can I ask which game do you enjoy more LOTR or hobbit?

Hello,
Someone told me when we update the software on Hobbit the number of plays and the game time of play reset to Zero, it's it true?
Can someone confirm it?
Thanks

If you use the backup feature, all your settings are saved.

You can do a total wipe of the drive or even replace it, and then just reload your backup.

Everything is back to normal.

I make a fresh backup each time we get a new high score to preserve it.

Anyone using precision pinball’s CNC filler bats on their Hobbits?

Thanks, I was trying to figure out if they would help game play and what color would look best? And of course if to go with the solid or halo?

I tried them and like them fine. I didn't find a big improvement on my game but I was too curious. I think I perceive the flipper bat returning to rest a bit quicker than original. I have them on Godzilla and this and I'm not getting a set for any of my other machines. Bigger improvement on Hobbit is to be found with flipper fans IMO because they solve a real problem.

Note that the new flipper shafts are so smooth they are slippery and I couldn't get the clamp tight enough without breaking the bolt (which sucked). When I got the replacement crank, I roughed the shaft up with sandpaper to get the grip needed. I'd just go with the keyed shaft/crank he has available now.

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Smaug edition came with gold Smaug compared to red Smaug in original. Also the Smaug edition has its own custom game over screen.

1. For me the ledge on the target ramp has broken. Fairly easy fix. The pop up monsters break. Easy fix but redicoulus overpriced.
2. The callouts are simply the best there are in pinball. The best.
3. It's used for the upper target ramp during modes and killing smaug.
If you want more use for it, get the baggends mod. Then you can also avoid the pesky sdtm pop returns.
4. Not really.

This is the game that has lasted the longest in my home.

Not perfect all pins require some repairs eventually, but one of the most reliable pins I've owned.

Hi guys, what does "light thorin" do exactly?
I see this by pressing the lock bar button when yellow bit doesnt seem to trigger annything?

Thanls

It lights the Thorin insert at the captive ball to collect him.

just to collect the dwarf that s it?

I think so. Associated (small) points as well when collected.

I also think of you already have Thorin then it collects you a random dwarf that you haven’t collected.

That's exactly how it is.
Another dwarf will be collected when you hit Thorin/the captive ball.

Tjx for the replies.
Dont know if i am the only one with this issue:
My beorn target never ever trigger to give me a ball back.
I went in testing and it s working properly, do you guys also have a piece of foam behimd?

Thanks

Same here , never worked , I don't think it's programed in .

That works for me during multiballs. That might be the only time it will work... unsure.

Yes pretty sure it’s just a multi ball save.

Only during multiball.

Here is a picture of my Beorn Target – with foam backing. I agree with other replies, it is active during multi-ball. As per page 29 of the rulesheet (v3.10.3):

“Note that during every multiball the Beorn Target becomes active as indicated by the right inlane lamps strobing towards the target. Hitting the target then awards an add-a-ball (saving the ball you just lost).”

Beorn Target Pic (resized).jpg

Update for Scorbit users on JJP machines:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/scorbit-official-thread/page/15#post-7459272

@JJP

The sudden announcement of Scorbit support removal is a blow to all your customers.

Personally, I've had my share of issues with my Hobbit, which traced back to product maturity (first manufacturing batch with super thin wires) but also to general service availability across the world (no replacement board available across all European resellers, come on! I had to pay 100 dollars of shipping and tax for my BAG board replacement).

This had me seriously reconsider buying any JJP machines in the future (not even taking into account playfield issues and how they were addressed).

The removal of Scorbit, and the way this was done, is really sending a super bad message to customers, and is the last drop to me.

As of now, I won't buy a single JJP product. I'll probably resell both my current JJP machines in the near future.

Has anyone had a ball trap left of the mode outlane drop wire form? Had the ball hop off the woreform a couple times to the left and you have to pull the glass to get it out. Wondering if anyone has a fix.

If the ball is flying off the right wireform, your flipper power is too high.

Early on JJP released an updated right wireform to heep the balls from jumping onto the top of the pop bumper,

Drop the power one number at a time until the ball is under control.

As far as the ball falling off the left wireform or getting stuck against the wall, there is a factory fix for that.

Its basically a post that goes over the lower left mounting screw.

I had to bend the left wireform a bit to angle it towards the wall to keep the ball on track.

I also had to bend the end loop up quite a bit to keep the ball from flying over it.

In fact, I had to bend all of the end loops up 1/4" or more to keep the balls from spinning into the outlanes.

Personally, Im glad to see it go. The splash screen in attract mode annoys me.

I also dont like the QR code to share my score, lol.

I might be in the minority, but I never used it even though I took the time and trouble (and minor expense) to add wifi to my TH and WOZ, and getting it to work (as sketchy as it was).

I guess that we are just not competitive players here.

The removal of Scorbit makes me like JJP even more!

I'm unfamiliar with CNC filler (or is it flipper) bats. Do you still use the coil with installation? Do you still get flipper fade?

They are just metal flipper bats and metal flipper bushings.

They have less flex and more precision is used in the manufacture. They dont "rock" in the bushings as much.

Theoretically you would experience a more solid, controllable hit off of the bat.

Some people can feel the difference, others not so much.

Fade will be the same.

Adding coil cooling fans has more effect than installing metal bats.

Everything else is the same.

Hey everyone...we just release our first mod of an event we are calling The 7 Days of Texas leading up to the Texas Pinball Festival. I am posting here because it is a mod for your favorite game...The Hobbit. See it here :

https://backalleycreations.com/collections/the-hobbit-pinball-mods/products/the-hobbit-replacement-apron-with-lcd-mod

Awesome. I'm in!

Looks amazing Matt!
I’m looking forward to checking it out in person next week.

I know that it's just the lighting, but I like this darker more golden tone. Matt said that he could make it darker like that for me. If you want it a little darker, let him know when you order.

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I did the photos for Matt and really tried to capture the tones of the stain...in real life the color is actually closer to the picture that you like The flash seems to lighten the tones up a bit so I tried to let the shadowing convey the tones more accurately in photots...

Thanks so much for the thoughts! In person this apron is such a beautiful addition to this title...it just adds that old world feel..

Wow fantastic apron.
Will it also work with the Elite Topper because the the Topper is connencted with the book monitor?

I feel like it will work with it at the same time. If someone can send me some information on how the elite topper ties into the game I can work on verifying this? I'm sure we can likely split the feed again if needed or do a three way splitter vs the two way that the kit comes with.

I want to remove my PF protector, it looks terrible! Do I have to shim or adjust the lock rollover switches?

I ordered one and requested the darker stain but it may not need it because of the lighting in the picture,I am sure Matt will do it right!