I agree with everything above from rage. I own both and will never sell either. I play my Woz the least out of all my 5 games but when I do, I just sit in awe of how dang magical that game is.
As far as hobbit, it’s maybe my most played game. It is a very long journey playing game. The multi balls can actually be very controlled and strategically used once you understand the hidden entrance lock for mode multi balls, so I wouldn’t say it’s really multiball heavy unless you choose. Killing Smaug and melting the witch are definitely two of the best moments in pinball. The 31 modes are all unique and very well done. The 3 mini wizard modes are incredibly done and reachable. TH plays different from anything else, and that’s one of the reasons I love it. Last, it’s probably the most beautiful machine ever made. I have an LE because I prefer all the characters represented on the artwork. All versions are the exact same game, just cosmetics and then Smaug and black arrow have a different attract image pop up once in awhile.

I keep hearing how different the gameplay is on TH and am looking forward to that. Good to hear that it is just cosmetic between the releases. Which releases came first though? Trying to get a feel for chronological ordering? Or at least machine #'s to avoid to keep with more current makes?

btw, my lineup if I go through with this will be TH, GnR LE, TZ, and original MM.

I think it went , standard , limited edition , Smaug gold , Black Arrow , I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong .

This is correct. I will add that most early machines probably got the fixes sent to them and shouldn’t be an issue.

My Bag End mod is damaged (the mounting 'bar' is broken at each tip)

Before I attempt a repair, could someone please post a picture of what it should look like when complete?

Here's a picture of it

16726585277687346583351664569900 (resized).jpg

20230102_121825 (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

Hey Ashram - sorry to see that happen I've seen a couple occasions where an airball has destroyed the base on some earlier versions of that mod.

I've uploaded a base replacement that can be 3D printed - see Thingiverse link below.

I unfortunately sold my Hobbit awhile ago - we REALLY miss it! I do believe rockrand has my old machine She's a beauty!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5760384

base1 (resized).jpg

Anyone think that there could be some 3D printed protector for the two VUK holes? The right one is starting to take a little wear on mine and it’s not in the area that a Cliffy covers. Any thoughts?

Hi guys,

how should the flippers be align on the hobbit? It s a bit hard to hit the orbit on mine, curious to hear how yours are set

Thanks

Hello,
I’m going to be joining the club soon, just would like to know what common issues/problems to look for when buying this particular game used, and what the difference between the models are?

I would take a look at the Smaug for proper functions check all pop up mechs,all games are the same except for art and powder also I believe on the Smaug the splash screen is unique and the arrow may have something similar!
Love this game.

Agreed, the black arrow also have black flippers bat in place of the normal yellow as well as the specific splash screen. All the games are the same otherwise.
Be carrefull with very early numbers as they did change the flaps on the popup beast (and also provided updated flaps for the one already out there)

Black Arrow had darker backglass art.

LTG : )

Also the early ramps had stainless flaps that would not sit flat and latter changed to spring steel.

Hey guys, still looking for some alignment guidelines for the flipper bats, anyone got some details?
Thanks

Mine are just the standard, lined up with the inlanes. It shots well, can hit either ramp from either flipper.

Do you mean aligned with the inlanes it's parallel to it or if you put a piece of plastic against the inlanes the tip of the flipper bat also touch the plastic?

I recall someone saying you could try some nail polish varnish .

If you have a straight edge along the inlane it should also touch the entire length of the flipper, the ball should have a straight path along the inlane all the way to the tip of the flipper. I've always thought this was the normal setup for most of the machines out there but maybe I'm wrong.

Is it possible to raise/lower the kick rollover?

Try adjusting the leaf blade switch below the playfield it triggers.

LTG : )

Hi, my Hobbit Le back box has no power to it. The lcd or the lighting for the backbox doesn’t work. I’ve checked the connectors. The playfield lights up as it should but the backbox does nothing. Please if anyone has some insight. I’ve checked the fuses I can visibly see. One looks different from the rest:
4D539CAA-F27B-4FF6-816F-C165EBEFEE0E (resized).jpeg

there is a service plug in the bottom of the cabinet plug something into it and se if you have power into the cab first. your plug on the back could be loose, wire worked it way off the on/off switch, start with simple first. you kinda need a multi meter to test fuses properly

You cant visually inspect fuses. You have to use a meter.

Often they blow off the wire under the metal cap, you cant see that.

Hey guys, i got a lot of rejects from the two left and right holes. Do you also have this issue?
The ball hot the back but come back inplace of folling into the holes

Any ideas?

Thanks

What pitch are you playing at?

Not sure, but i got mine at a pretty steap angle, back legs all up and front almost bottom

The over-all correct pitch should be around 7.2 degrees (glass off).

I set mine at 7, is there supposed to be rubber on the metal guard on those 2 holes?

Here are pics of those two VUKs on my game; the left one doesn't have any rubber on the metal guard/bracket at the back but the right one does (it is round and blue). I only joined the club in December so I don't know why they are different (or if this set-up is stock or from a previous owner etc). I haven't noticed if one is more difficult to make vs the other - I do know that only fairly accurate shots will be successful. I will play some more and see if I should also put a rubber pad/bumper on the left VUK.

left hole - hobbit (resized).jpg

right hole - hobbit (resized).jpg

Mine’s the same way and I am the original owner.

I find these shots much easier to backhand then straight on.

Thanks, that help, i did not know if it was normal one was not there but now i know my game is as it should be

I'm about to tackle replacing the motor for Smaug's mouth as well as the round circuit board while I'm at it. How tough is this task...?

Pretty easy.

Anyone ever had their small screen go black? Half way through a game it just went black. Finished the game and cycled the game off and back on and it worked fine.

Loose/worn cable?

.

So, now that Pinside is separating Premium and LE rating entries... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/operation-premium-le
are they going to separate Hobbit Standard and LE entries?

Just got a Hobbit back in the collection and the wifi won't connect to my network, it sees my network just fine just won't connect. Do you have to change registration with JJP to new owner before it will connect? It does have the Beta code so don't know if that makes a difference.

Did you give it your user name and password?

No.

Could be settings on your router.

LTG : )

My password yes, what username?

Do you know what specific settings to look for?

Sorry no. It may have been posted in this thread. You can search just this thread. Or someone may post help.

LTG : )

Tried a different dongle that I know works with my router and still no dice, something specific with the game is causing it. I guess I'll email JJP support.

Is your WIFI frequency combing both 2.4 and 5GHz? I know some WIFI devices only connect with the 2.4GHz and if they are combined the machine may only be trying the 5GHz and you’d never know it. If they aren’t combined, do you see both the 2.4 and 5 separately? I’m fortunate enough to be able to run ethernet to it instead of WIFI.

My router has both and have tried to connect to both multiple times, they are separate.

What brand/model WiFi dongle is in your game?

Going to assume you're doing this but thought I'd post the JJP instructions for GNR, I would think it's the same for Hobbit. Not at home right now to verify.

JJP Wifi (resized).JPG