Anybody have an extra laser engraved plate and gold ring button for the fire button mod? Pm me
Quoted from usafstars:If you do, go to page E-14 of the Hobbit manual, great instructions on changing out battery while power is ON.
If you do it with power OFF you'll wipe out the BIOS settings. Be careful not to drop the battery coming out or going in, possible to short stuff out on the motherboard.
And watch the fan blades.
Quoted from twinturb089:http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/The-Hobbit-Parts/ The screen is 35.00 and the driver board is 35.00. buy them both. i just replaced mine in my dialed in and fixed the problem.
Ok thanks! I didn't realize it had a driver board too, makes me wonder if thats causing the issue cause I can hear/see the screen try to come on and then go out. But I guess it won't hurt to have this screen on hand if the board alone fixes it. THX
Quoted from konghusker:Looking for one of these if anybody has one for sale. Thanks
[quoted image]
I’m second in line.
Quoted from ArcadeBar:Ok thanks! I didn't realize it had a driver board too, makes me wonder if thats causing the issue cause I can hear/see the screen try to come on and then go out. But I guess it won't hurt to have this screen on hand if the board alone fixes it. THX
if you buy the screen it will be the driver and vise versa, its probably the ribbon cable, but the ribbon comes with the driver board. the ribbon is a pain in the ass to get seated . I have large hands and the ribbon is tiny and delicate. but i did it after a few tries and a lot of cursing. i bought a set of each as spares for my pirates, dialed in and hobbit while they are cheap insurance!
Quoted from konghusker:Looking for one of these if anybody has one for sale. Thanks
[quoted image]
On the wrong side of the pond... But available:
https://pu-parts.com/the-hobbit-pinball-lockdown-bar-ring-button-plate-engraved
FR Michael...
Quoted from ORF:On the wrong side of the pond... But available:
https://pu-parts.com/the-hobbit-pinball-lockdown-bar-ring-button-plate-engraved
FR Michael...
Seen it earlier but doesn’t look like it ships to the US unfortunately. Thanks though
Quoted from twinturb089:if you buy the screen it will be the driver and vise versa, its probably the ribbon cable, but the ribbon comes with the driver board. the ribbon is a pain in the ass to get seated . I have large hands and the ribbon is tiny and delicate. but i did it after a few tries and a lot of cursing. i bought a set of each as spares for my pirates, dialed in and hobbit while they are cheap insurance!
10-4 that’s frkn pinball! Yea I’ve got a pirates also and didn’t realize it was the same lcd until Lloyd dropped in for help, so might as well have it. I ordered both, the screen was 35 and board 43 and thanks for the ribbon cable info I’ll first try to see if that does the trick. I’m going to teach my 3yr old gal to do this stuff for me cause small hands are where it’s at with pinball!(;
Just curious. Was there any playfield differences between the standard, smaug, black arrow, etc... Artwork or otherwise?
Quoted from pcprogrammer:Just curious. Was there any playfield differences between the standard, smaug, black arrow, etc... Artwork or otherwise?
I’m not aware of any.
Quoted from pcprogrammer:Just curious. Was there any playfield differences between the standard, smaug, black arrow, etc... Artwork or otherwise?
none
Quoted from pcprogrammer:Just curious. Was there any playfield differences between the standard, smaug, black arrow, etc... Artwork or otherwise?
Smaug edition has gold Smaug head as opposed to more red.
Smaug edition has video clip of Smaug covered in gold flying and shaking off gold.( SE only)
Black arrow has black flippers
All I can think of at the moment.
Besides cab art differences
Quoted from freddy:Smaug edition has gold Smaug head as opposed to more red.
Smaug edition has video clip of Smaug covered in gold flying and shaking off gold.( SE only)
Black arrow has black flippers
All I can think of at the moment.
Besides cab art differences
Black Arrow Also has a special splash screen, showing the firing of the windlance. Mine also has a more gold headed Smaug as well, you can see the attached image.
IMG_2165 (resized).jpgQuoted from freddy:Smaug edition has gold Smaug head as opposed to more red.
Smaug edition has video clip of Smaug covered in gold flying and shaking off gold.( SE only)
Black arrow has black flippers
All I can think of at the moment.
Besides cab art differences
True, but I was addressing the playfield itself (board) and art - and I think they are all identical. And you can use the same Hobbit PF for all versions of the game.
ALL hobbit playfields are the exact same other than cosmetic color changes on Smaug and BA editions.
Quoted from freddy: Black arrow has black flippers
All I can think of at the moment.
Besides cab art differences
And black captive balls ?
Hi guys, I am having an issue since a few weeks on my Hobbit LE.
After a while all inserts get stuvk in whatever color they were, and they don't move anymore.
Rebooting the machines seems to solve the issue, but it always comes back.
What should I check?
Quoted from Nihonmasa:What should I check?
I'd reseat connectors to B.A.G. board and Hub board and where they come from on the I/O board and back of the big metal box with the boards. Not the connectors from them to the lights.
LTG : )
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Hi guys, I am having an issue since a few weeks on my Hobbit LE.
After a while all inserts get stuvk in whatever color they were, and they don't move anymore.
Rebooting the machines seems to solve the issue, but it always comes back.
What should I check?
Oh my.... I've had the same issue. It appeared randomly at first, then in the end it appeared within 5min after power on.
One thing JJP told me to check is voltage level (you can check at another connector, the one at the bottom right led board when the playfield is up is easy to get access to). If voltages are good, and GI and lighting are completely stuck, then it's your bag board.
I had to order a replacement. It fixed the most frequent issue, BUT I still get it occasionally, so honestly I'm concerned there's something else causing the failure.
What's your Hobbit build date? JJP changed PCB version halfway through. Production before June 2016 have the super thin wires and connectors, after June they have the regular 2.54 connectors. The latter version has much more capacitors and isolation on all signals, but you can't retrofit the new version into the first production batch, because JJP does not build the wiring harness anymore.
I have a first batch machine btw
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Hi guys, I am having an issue since a few weeks on my Hobbit LE.
After a while all inserts get stuvk in whatever color they were, and they don't move anymore.
Rebooting the machines seems to solve the issue, but it always comes back.
What should I check?
This is going to sound dumb, but try disconnecting the yellow ethernet cable from the bottom side of Smaug and see if that fixes it. I had your same problem and that troubleshooting step helped me fix the problem in my machine.
Quoted from Travahontas:This is going to sound dumb, but try disconnecting the yellow ethernet cable from the bottom side of Smaug and see if that fixes it. I had your same problem and that troubleshooting step helped me fix the problem in my machine.
There was a comment earlier in the thread that the servo motor used for Smaug mouth was causing overcurrent and causing the issue. In my case I disconnected the servo (so I keep the flasher and the rotation), but that did not solve the issue, and eventually the board failed completely.
Given that my brand new board also fails (although at a lower failure rate), JJP is suggesting to monitor power and see if there's a drop, which requires an oscilloscope... Not exactly straightforward, fortunately I have one but I need to find a way to monitor it easily during operation, so need a test point.
Quoted from Ashram56:There was a comment earlier in the thread that the servo motor used for Smaug mouth was causing overcurrent and causing the issue. In my case I disconnected the servo (so I keep the flasher and the rotation), but that did not solve the issue, and eventually the board failed completely.
Given that my brand new board also fails (although at a lower failure rate), JJP is suggesting to monitor power and see if there's a drop, which requires an oscilloscope... Not exactly straightforward, fortunately I have one but I need to find a way to monitor it easily during operation, so need a test point.
Sorry @ashram56, I was replying to @nihonmasa. It sounds like you have a much nastier gremlin than I had :-/
Hey y'all, I'm selling a lock bar sculpt I bought but that I'm not using. It's currently sold out at Little Shop of Games, so I'm hoping this is helpful to someone who's wanting one and/or just wants a discounted price over new.
Added 17 months ago:SOLD
Quoted from ColoradoJordan:Does anybody known where I can order replacement cabinet keys; my lock is the E08?
Did you lose them? Or are they lost in the game somewhere...
Maybe here:
Quoted from pinballinreno:Did you lose them? Or are they lost in the game somewhere...
Maybe here:
https://easykeys.com/Pundra_E01-E20_E08_Key_Lock.aspx
My 3 year old acquired them and now they are lost to the abyss.
I was able to open a very easily. I just used a pair of fingernail clippers. For those that ever have this future issue here is a video on how to do it. It takes 20 seconds.
Quoted from ColoradoJordan:I was able to open a very easily. I just used a pair of fingernail clippers. For those that ever have this future issue here is a video on how to do it. It takes 20 seconds.
LOL, now I know why operators always use lockdown bars. That was too easy!
Quoted from ColoradoJordan:I was able to open a very easily. I just used a pair of fingernail clippers. For those that ever have this future issue here is a video on how to do it. It takes 20 seconds.
Isn't that interesting. Gulp.
Quoted from GoldenBear:I’m gonna practice that. Seems like a great skill for a pinball collector
I think the term is "Jimmying" the lock.
"Jimmy" the lock with a nail file etc.
Derived from jemmy "a burglars tool" in the U.K., or a small crowbar or "pick".
So I’m looking at the laseriffic topper and the lior Smaug one. Anybody have either and what are your thoughts? Is the lior one available anywhere still? Little shop doesn’t respond to emails for some reason.
The other option I’m considering but really unsure of is that lpm 3d hologram topper. Anybody have it and thoughts?
Quoted from konghusker:So I’m looking at the laseriffic topper and the lior Smaug one. Anybody have either and what are your thoughts? Is the lior one available anywhere still? Little shop doesn’t respond to emails for some reason.
The other option I’m considering but really unsure of is that lpm 3d hologram topper. Anybody have it and thoughts?
To me, the hologram topper is really not that good, at least if you are referring to what looks like a big fan at rest. First, it's loud. It's a set of spinning blades after all. The 3D effect is not 3D, it's actually a 2D image floating in space. Sure it has a wow factor, but it's not aesthetically integrated. I bought mine on Aliexpress for 60 bucks or so, never bothered to install it after testing it. Granted, mine was the two blade version (4 blades are much more expensive, but should be quieter because they don't run as fast).
Quoted from konghusker:So I’m looking at the laseriffic topper and the lior Smaug one. Anybody have either and what are your thoughts? Is the lior one available anywhere still? Little shop doesn’t respond to emails for some reason.
The other option I’m considering but really unsure of is that lpm 3d hologram topper. Anybody have it and thoughts?
I've had my eye on that laseriffic one for awhile now. I don't think there are really anymore good options. I wouldn't do that 3D Hologram one, seems like a gimmic.
That’s kinda how I feel about the 3d one. Figured I’d at least ask opinions on it, but it always seemed out of place and odd compared to other toppers. The laseriffic one looks factory made to me, and the lior one looks really cool breathing smoke
Quoted from konghusker:That’s kinda how I feel about the 3d one. Figured I’d at least ask opinions on it, but it always seemed out of place and odd compared to other toppers. The laseriffic one looks factory made to me, and the lior one looks really cool breathing smoke
I was just looking at the red dragon topper from lior. I think I'd rather get that one over the laseriffic one but I think we missed out on it.
Quoted from pcprogrammer:I was just looking at the red dragon topper from lior. I think I'd rather get that one over the laseriffic one but I think we missed out on it.
That’s my guess, but little shop hasn’t responded to a couple emails I’ve sent. I’m assuming we’re too late, and it was probably more than I wanted to spend anyways. I really like the laseriffic one though. It’s officially licensed and looks like what jjp would’ve included factory
My Smaug mouth just stopped working.
Is it always the board and servo? Just the servo? Just the board?
Is there a post or thread with details about how to replace the servo? I tried searching, but only found the references to the servo that can be ordered from hobby lobby.
Thanks!
Quinn
Yeah I wish I would have grabbed one of those as well
Quoted from konghusker:That’s my guess, but little shop hasn’t responded to a couple emails I’ve sent. I’m assuming we’re too late, and it was probably more than I wanted to spend anyways. I really like the laseriffic one though. It’s officially licensed and looks like what jjp would’ve included factory
Oh man that sucks. Sorry to see that for you. My back glass has a small scratch In artwork I recently noticed. Better get some triple thick spray asap
Was it kept in a non climate controlled environment?
Quoted from Atlgills:Anyone experienced this problem with the backglass art?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That is not normal unless the game was too hot or cold, of there were temperature fluctuations.
Maybe improper storage caused the artwork to lift.
I would replace the glass at this point, it wont get better.
Quoted from doc5md:My Smaug mouth just stopped working.
Is it always the board and servo? Just the servo? Just the board?
Is there a post or thread with details about how to replace the servo? I tried searching, but only found the references to the servo that can be ordered from hobby lobby.
Thanks!
Quinn
It’s generally best to replace both the servo and the board. I just replaced the servo and Smaugs mouth worked for about a month. Then the board went bad. I would order both from pinball life as they have the cheapest prices. Follow the manual and it’s reasonably straightforward.
FYI, Pinball Life appears to have restocked a whole bunch of Hobbit specific parts. They now have complete cabinet decal sets for all versions, playfields, apron decals, monster bash-targets (see what I did, there!), and several others. The targets in particular have been rare, and they’re attractively priced ($10/ea).
Quoted from DiabloRush:FYI, Pinball Life appears to have restocked a whole bunch of Hobbit specific parts. They now have complete cabinet decal sets for all versions, playfields, apron decals, monster bash-targets (see what I did, there!), and several others. The targets in particular have been rare, and they’re attractively priced ($10/ea).
Has there been a common problem with the bash monsters? Any in particular?
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