No it does not. I can't hear the coil energizing. Time to check the wiring.

That is very helpful.
Thanks!

Just joined the club!

image11 (resized).jpeg

Youre welcome!

All set up and look prrrrrty! Look forward to getting some time on her soon (gotta fix the drop target springs first - they’re on the way).

I’m surprised by how much this machine towers over Alien LV. I was also surprised about how much of a tank this thing is!

C56022AC-0257-414F-BAD2-0E06E472886E (resized).jpeg

Nice to see this pin getting the love it deserves. It’s my favorite JJP with GNR a close second

I call mine, "My Precious".

Got mine (new to me Smaug gold edition) out on the floor late last night. Need to level it up and get the incline right; I think it is too shallow right now. Can't wait to dive into it!

And it's the wiring. A wire unsoldered from the coil lug.
Same on the gold smaug flasher actually

Time to solder

So actually, the board I use can go up to 36V DC, so I could use 12V. Now just need to figure out the best place to hook it up under the playfield. I believe there is a 12V power connector at the bottom of the cabinet somewhere, but is there a closer location, like a GI socket for example ? Or is everything RGB leds and no permanent GI bulbs ?

There is no rgb in the hobbit. Topper connector is the best place to grab 12v. You can also get it at the coindoor connector for the dba.

I wouldn't do that. Hobbit is 110 VAC. No 12 volts on that 9 pin connector.

For God and country tell jjp to get LTG : ) Back.

wonka and Gnr both have 12v on that connector. hobbit different?

YES. WOZ and Hobbit are 110 volt AC. Starting with Dialed In and going forward, they changed to 12 volts DC for their games.

Now call jjp and tell them to get LTG : )

I did in the questionnaire, and hopefully everyone else did too. Sure would be some good will that you deserve and JJP needs.

Err... Even in Europe?

I'd refer to the manual on that one. I don't know if they step the voltage down to the coin door or not. 220 VAC could be exciting up there.

LTG : )

I haven’t really modded my Hobbit much, but with my daughter’s paint job, how could I not add BagEnd.

62B14AE5-6112-4A6A-9BC4-6D8DDA1C0136 (resized).jpeg

Get rid of the spotlights to grab 12v. Looks much better without them.

Interesting take...I may take the bulbs out and see how that looks. I know you can turn up/down the GI but are not able to only turn off the spotlights.

It would be a nice software setting if you can set the spotlights to from 0 (off) - 8 (brightest).

Keith, can you do that for us on the next hobbit build?

I switched my spotlight bulbs to sunlight color, but I'd never take them out or turn them off - that's crazy talk!

Maybe you fellas could answers question for me.

Does the LE come with a certificate from Jersey Jack stating what number you have like the Smaug Edition does?

Thanks.

Yes

Yeah. Mine are sunlight (aka warm whites) bulbs as well. I think that fits the look better than the cool whites.

Sunlight is more blue than warm white but less blue than cool white in Comet vernacular

Asking for a friend, what are those unused connectors inside the cabinet ? Some look like ATX HDD connectors, which i can understand if there are some spare, but there's a three pin connector with green and white, black wire, and a two pin with blue.

I seem to recall blue is the 12V power plug for the topper ?

295923757_652259042408506_8341759279432321966_n (resized).jpg

297370888_813119796525695_6063655903541639789_n (resized).jpg

297565009_481939237107561_2559427683617220925_n (resized).jpg

Yep , don't leave it lying around so your dog can eat it

IMG_20220810_214059 (resized).jpg

If you need a copy I can copy mine and you can blend them on your scanner.

Thanks mate , sadly my Hobbit has left and the new owner didn't ask about it , so I didn't mention it
He knew he was a naughty boy , but how could I get angry at that face .

IMG_20220810_221913 (resized).jpg

Sorry about that. I contacted Jersey Jack to see if I can get a copy made for mine.

Quick question about changing free play to credits. It seems the pin keeps adding credits when I go from free play to credits and back and forth. Is there a way for it to be zero credits when going from free play to credits?

It’s a pain to hit start and play, start and play, etc etc until I run 10 credits out.

Hit Enter - Go To Full Menu - Scroll down to Resets - Hit Enter - Hit Enter - Hit Enter - Hit Start Button to confirm. Escape out to attract mode.

No idea why it adds credits when you switch, I've never seen that.

LTG : )

This is a unrelated question to the above recent posts, but I am requesting help: If one looses the duplicate keys to the backbox lock (damn grandkid), what are my options? Call a locksmith & replace the lock, or drill out the lock & replace it? If you drill out the lock, what size bit do you use & how hard is it? Where does one get a replacement lock? On Amazon?

*** I also got a survey from JJP asking where I got info about my LE Hobbit's problems, remedies & repairs. I replied: "THE HOBBIT OWNERS THREAD on Pinside, esp., LTG!" What's admirable about LTG, he's still assisting on our thread & his replies are immediate, usually within 24 hrs. Thank you LTG!!!

I had the issue on a coin door , a 10 mil bit straight through the middle should be more than enough , they are easily available , just google.it .
I looked up , pinball coin door ball lock .

IMG_20220814_034708 (resized).jpg

Is there some proper way to clear a stuck ball without losing the ball you’re on? Tonight I had a multiball going when one ball got stuck win with a monster as it dropped back into the table. It didn’t lay flat and another ball hit it and went airborne and landed up with Smaug!
I lost everything in trying to clear the mess.
Lol

Quick before the game launches another ball. Open coin door and leave open, pull the glass back, remove ball and stick in the shooter lane. Put glass and lockdown bar back.

As soon as you close the door it will shoot the ball into play.

LTG : )

Thanks LTG
JJP, Get LTG back!

And here I was placing the ball onto a cradled Flipper and putting the glass and lock down bar back one-handed

I usually move the glass down far enough to clear the trap, and then drop the ball in one of the VUK holes. It pops back out as soon as you close the coin door -> continue play.

Any way/adjustment to reduce ball reject on the right hole (shot from the left bottom flipper)?

It happens to me quite often, more than half of the time

Thanks

Backhand from right flipper. Safest way to make that shot.

Agree. The right VUK from the left flipper is actually tougher to make than you may think.

Hmmm, tried that, but the shot is blocked by the slingshot. Need to check it again just to be sure

Let the ball roll out about 1/8" or 1/4" or so from the cradled position, then shoot it.

This works on both sides.

A couple weeks in of ownership. I find this machine, of all I’ve owned (which is only about 15 - 20 or so), improves my ability more than any other game. If I want to get anywhere, I MUST be able to control, aim and shoot. Exception being: keep multiball alive long enough to make accidental progress (which is a feature I sometimes like). I love the variety of the modes. I’ve made it to Into the Fire a few times. But no further. Still figuring it out. Haven’t read (usually don’t like to until much time has passed) any rules. I am very happy I picked this up FINALLY!

I think the game is such a great experience and has the best atmosphere in Pinball .
Make sure you have a subwoofer connected .

Is there a line out in the machine for subwoofer or external Amp?

Yep

IMG_20220820_151556 (resized).jpg

Thanks for the pointer, I'll take a look.

On another note, my LED Bag board (is that how's it's called?) sometimes hangs, all lights frozen. Someone mentioned a current pull from the dragon mouth servo that could cause this problem, but I paid close attention and when this happens is not necessarily when the mouth is activated. It's rather random, could not figure out a pattern. It was fine for quite a few dozen games, then all of sudden I get it every 10 games or so.

So questions:
- is there a way to reset the board without power cycling? Maybe a reset header to which I could wire a switch?
- what can cause the Bag board to hangs like this? I have an oscilloscope, I could measure and trigger but need to get advice on which signal to monitor.

Thanks