Quoted from fnosm:

I have 5 games running scorbit. It is fun and easy. You can easily create a display for your gameroom tv that tracks what is going on and high scores via scorbit as well. If you have JJP games it is a no brainer.

Quoted from Vernisious:

How do you hook up a TV?

Quoted from SlapDrain:

Hobbit and Woz Extended Play Coil Cooler kits back in stock!
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1391-ravspec[quoted image]

Quoted from bossk4hire:

Got my tracking number! Pumped to get em installed!

Quoted from SlapDrain:

Thanks for the purchase! Should be there soon, you are going to love them.

Quoted from RhettDR:

A couple of years ago - I had some trouble with my Goblin pop-up not working (though it really really tries to work). I ordered a new coil and replaced. It really hasn't had any issues for some time. At the time, I emailed JJP and asked them... They responded with the following: "Have you tried the coil settings and seen where it is set? Possibly a bad connection at soldered posts or at the I-O board. Also check the assembly and the switches and use the switch test and see if it could be an issue. Alignment is another factor in the smoothness of its' operation. Moving the unit by hand is not a good way to test either. It could be a lengthy process to get it right. All in all try these items and get back with me."
So, I have looked at this, plugged / unplugged / etc... I just don't know what I am doing wrong. Mechanically (by hand) it's smooth as butter... I changed the sleeve, nothing seems to be binding etc... What else could make it NOT pop up?
So frustrating... Right now I am tempted to just buy another coil.

Quoted from RhettDR:

I'd agree - it shouldn't be the coil...

Quoted from RhettDR:

It kinda tries - It floats a bit. You can see it come up - like a mm. It moves.
And when the ball finder triggered - it popped right up (once).
Hell - it seems like the leav switch is TOO FAR - you really have to smack it to get the hit to register.
I'd agree - it shouldn't be the coil...

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its truly worth it!

Quoted from Energyspike:

Agreed, there was no flipper fade on a long game yesterday. For those who are on the edge about it I say it is a really good mod. I went the DYI route but the package from Slapdrain looks like good quality and has all you need for a quick install. I simply enjoy the challenge of making my own when possible....
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from SlapDrain:

Hobbit and Woz Extended Play Coil Cooler kits back in stock!
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1391-ravspec[quoted image]

Quoted from docdeath:

I have yet to experience "flipper fatigue" in my LE Hobbit, unlike with Stranger Things & Pirates of the Caribbean.
Trumpanche & other Pinsiders: Have you had "flipper fatigue" with your Hobbits?
The advertised Extended Play Coil Cooler Kits appear as an excellent mod @ a very reasonable price. Should one purchase it as an safeguard? I assume the power supply is 12v.

Quoted from docdeath:

I have yet to experience "flipper fatigue" in my LE Hobbit, unlike with Stranger Things & Pirates of the Caribbean.
Trumpanche & other Pinsiders: Have you had "flipper fatigue" with your Hobbits?
The advertised Extended Play Coil Cooler Kits appear as an excellent mod @ a very reasonable price. Should one purchase it as an safeguard? I assume the power supply is 12v.

Quoted from docdeath:

I have yet to experience "flipper fatigue" in my LE Hobbit, unlike with Stranger Things & Pirates of the Caribbean.
Trumpanche & other Pinsiders: Have you had "flipper fatigue" with your Hobbits?
The advertised Extended Play Coil Cooler Kits appear as an excellent mod @ a very reasonable price. Should one purchase it as an safeguard? I assume the power supply is 12v.

Quoted from SlapDrain:

Hobbit and Woz Extended Play Coil Cooler kits back in stock!
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1391-ravspec[quoted image]

Quoted from docdeath:

Is the power source 12v?

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Definitely get them. Its a high quality product and easy to install.
Hobbit is a heavy multiball usage game.
Adding mode balls guarantees lots of 5 or 6 ball multiballs.
Flipper fade is noticeable after about 25 mins of play, whereas earlier in the game the flippers had tons of power, a new mulitball will have less and less power to the point that balls are harder to make the ramps. This is especially noticeable during Smaug multiball and ITF modes where you have to make the ramps a lot to clear the mode. After than you get Barrel Escape where you need to make the ramps again, and so on.
Adding the coolers gives consistent power enough to make the ramps properly even after 45 mins of play.
The power on these fans comes nearly directly off the transformer, there is little to no effect on the game.
Its not just patched into a GI socket like a lot of the silly mods.

Quoted from SlapDrain:

yes they are 12v.

Quoted from Nihonmasa:

What's your real international shipping rate?
Currently showing 9999$

Quoted from abjr:

Apologies if this has been asked and answered but didn't find anything in this topic. When I pull out the Playfeild the support arms are to wide to sit on the latch bar support. The right side 'falls' off and rests on the shooter rod. The first set of rubber feet on the arms are inline and fit but the last two do not. I checked the make sure the arms where not bowed or loose but everything is solid. When looking at where the back right arm is attached compared to the left it is closer to the edge of the Playfeild causing the arms to be wider more towards the back. There is a led that is in the way of moving the right back arm in (to the left) so assume this is the reason. Wanted to see if others have this issue and if so what they do to support the Playfeild when fully extended. If I try to just use the front wood of the cabinet the Playfeild just slides back and then resting on the shooter rod.

Quoted from RhettDR:

Hey y'all - FWIW - I swapped the coil, hoping the problem would move with the coil. But it didn't. All the switches would register during test. But here was the interesting thing. When I would pull any beast upward in switch test.... (with my hands) the "BEAST UP" switch would light and stay lit during test. But when I grabbed the beast I was having problems with, and pulled it up... It was like - glitchy (would sometimes light, sometimes not). So, I simply bent the leaf spring to make it register every time. Once I did this - the beast worked perfectly and has been ever since ... So - All good!

Quoted from SlapDrain:

yes they are 12v.

Quoted from docdeath:

If I can't figure out your hook-up power source per the furnished instructions, can't I use a GI 12v source?

Quoted from SlapDrain:

The cooler kit gets power from a 4 pin molex connector in the back of the cabinet. A printed color install guide is included with the kit and it really couldn’t be any simpler. If you are having trouble getting it hooked up send me a PM and I’ll be glad to help. You can power the kit anyway you want it’s your game but I can’t offer any support if something goes wrong in that scenario.

Quoted from docdeath:

Sorry for my ignorance. I installed fans today according to the provided instructions with ease!! Your mod/fans are professionally made & easy to install. I do have one question: There are three matrix leads to the fans of which only two are used. Why the third?

Quoted from docdeath:

Sorry for my ignorance. I installed fans today according to the provided instructions with ease!! Your mod/fans are professionally made & easy to install. I do have one question: There are three matrix leads to the fans of which only two are used. Why the third?

Quoted from docdeath:

For give my ignorance again. The third lead is probably for a third fan for the right upper flipper if one so chooses.
Your mod is fantastic & I recommend it to all hobbit owners!!!

Quoted from SlapDrain:

I make all the jjp wiring kits the same

Quoted from Vernisious:

I accidentally bought two Hobbit fan kits. Would I be able to use one in Wonka or Dialed In?

Quoted from ammiller:

Wondered if anyone has seen the green plastic at the rear of the machine start to warp/sag, as seen in my picture below. I'm tempted to try heating it up with a hair dryer or something and seeing if I can reshape/re-attach somehow, but worried I might mess up the paint or something.
The part is very stiff and generally still well-attached to the backboard, but can be somewhat forced up into the proper shape.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from ammiller:

Wondered if anyone has seen the green plastic at the rear of the machine start to warp/sag, as seen in my picture below. I'm tempted to try heating it up with a hair dryer or something and seeing if I can reshape/re-attach somehow, but worried I might mess up the paint or something.
The part is very stiff and generally still well-attached to the backboard, but can be somewhat forced up into the proper shape.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from ammiller:

Wondered if anyone has seen the green plastic at the rear of the machine start to warp/sag, as seen in my picture below. I'm tempted to try heating it up with a hair dryer or something and seeing if I can reshape/re-attach somehow, but worried I might mess up the paint or something.
The part is very stiff and generally still well-attached to the backboard, but can be somewhat forced up into the proper shape.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I was looking for a compact easy to install cooling solution.
This was it!
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1391-ravspec/06825-extended-play-coil-coolers-jjp-the-hobbit
Super easy to install and very high quality.
Flipper fade has reduced to non-existent.
It only took me 15 mins to install it, its very easy.

Quoted from freddy:

For you guys looking to cool coils... check out these fans!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from prentice:

New Hobbit owner here! Such a great game, I'm loving it.
A few questions:
1. When starting a new game, sometimes there appears to be *no* skill shot active. Is this a bug? I know there is a bonus if you don't manually select your own skill shot, so presumably it should always have something selected.
2. I'm getting a decent number of wireform-spin-outlane-drain issues. I tried adding a little rubber bumper and also tightening the sling rubbers a bit. I tried to understand the wireform re-shaping instructions I saw elsewhere on here, but couldn't quite understand the text. Any easy solutions here?
3. Smaug lock sometimes doesn't magnagrab the ball; NBD, I presume this is a known minor issue with no fix.
4. Back of the holes (esp on the right) seems like it is getting beaten up. Any ideas to protect the rear of those?
5. For anyone with Pinstadiums, curious what you set your UV/flasher lights to trigger off of; I'd like it to be very rare since the purple color is so incongruent.
Thanks!

Quoted from KingBW:

1. It's probably a lane next to the bottom slings
3. By design. People were complaining about flow and stop and go. If I remember right, they changed it to only attempt a grab on the first ball lock. If the ball is going too fast, it might not stop it.
4. Cliffys

Quoted from KingBW:

1. It's probably a lane next to the bottom slings
3. By design. People were complaining about flow and stop and go. If I remember right, they changed it to only attempt a grab on the first ball lock. If the ball is going too fast, it might not stop it.
4. Cliffys

Quoted from prentice:

Is it better to try to bend the main beast forward? Or the leaf sensor backward? Both? So far I've just tried to stick a flathead screwdriver in there to create more separation. Is that the right approach?

Quoted from LTG:

I'd pull the mech up and grab the metal carriage with a vice grip so it doesn't fall down into the game.
Then look at if from the side. If the beast head is too close to the front of the game, it will hit the hole going up and drop. The rear leaf blade - put a piece of paper between the blades squeeze them shut pull the paper out. This will clean them. Then the real blade should be close enough so any hit closes the switch, but vibration going up doesn't set it off. I'd grab it with a switch adjuster and try and adjust it as close to the fiber board spacers where it's fastened to the mech.
A little tweaking and you'll be fine.
Let jjp know to get LTG : ) back.
LTG : )