I bought these from Tilt Graphics: https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/hobbit-treasure-trove-gameblades. They look great in the game especial if you get the 3d printed coin flipper mods. However the game is so tight in the cabinet, it will ruin the blades so you HAVE TO buy https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html and use them EVERYTIME you lift the playfield. No exceptions. Look at the image of my game with them installed.

Hobbit (resized).jpg

Since you have black arrow go with
Black mirrored!

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/spareparts/mirror-blades-for-jersey-jack-pinball-the-hobbit-spiegelblech.html
These are sweet. Mirrored with Hobbit cut. Let me know if you want to see a Pic.

Those look nice. Would you post a few pics?

I recently sold my Black Arrow and installed side blades for the buyer - I gotta say it came out really nice and made me regret the sale a bit

https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/the-hobbit-pinblades

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Purchased & exchanged steel pinballs with GOLD, including the Newton Ball! The GOLD Pinballs (total of 6: 5 playfield balls & the captive ball) were purchased from CoinTaker: "...made from Carbon Steel...will not magnetize... no gold wearing off on playfield or rubbers ..." The cost if $14.95/ball plus shipping & tax.

The Gold Newton ball purchase was a little more involved. It took me about 2 months of searching. There were two sites in Europe (Germany?). The cost & delay of shipping were prohibitive ($80+ & who knows how long?).

With Google search, I found Mr. Pinball in Australia (shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/newton-ball-assy-gold). The cost was $33 +$21 international shipping. Delivery took 2 weeks. My delivery was relatively fast. It depends on restricted air flights out of Australia. If you order on a weekend, you won't get confirmation of purchase until Monday.

Note #1: The GOLD CoinTaker pinballs & the Au. Newton ball are the same standard size (1&1/16").

Note #2: A GOLD captive ball with an adjacent steel Newton ball really is not that distracting (Photo #2).

GOLD Captive & Newton Balls 001 (resized).JPG

GOLD PINBALL 001 (resized).JPG

Gold Pinballs & Gold Newton Ball 001 (resized).JPG

As stated above, the gold CoinTaker pinballs & the gold AU Newton ball are of the exact same size & hue. The gold AU Newton ball is also the exact same size, including the machine screw shaft, as the steel Newton ball installed in the original LE Hobbit. When I installed the gold AU Newton ball, I noticed that the original Newton was loose. With installation, on the playfield side, there are two small washers through which the shaft goes. They need to be kept & used with installation so that the Newton ball exactly "kisses" the captive ball. On the underside of the playfield, there is a small washer & a locknut to anchor the Newton shaft. Between the washer & locknut, I added an additional lock washer for security.

Same ones I got. Easily the best choice, and most theme fitting. Scratched mine though unfortunately before I bought the must needed protectors

Add 1 ceramic ball to the mix.

Get a black one for tbe black arrow

Its amazing

Word of caution with use of the mirror blade vinyl protector sleeves: When inserting/removing sleeves, do so carefully & slowly. When you raise the playfield, make sure the sleeves do not raise too. If they do, the adjacent mirror blades will develop fine abrasions from the moving protectors.

All the pictures of the different side blades in the photos posted look great. Thanks for all the suggestions and tips on the tightness and lifting of the playfield. Ugh...the choice is not any easier now they all look so good!!

Not that I know of, but here's all the crap I put in my game

Trumpanche Mods (Pinside) “Gate at Bag End”
SuperSkillShot.com “One Ring” shooter rod, crystal clear
SuperSkillShot.com “Arkenstone Start Button”, low profile w/ Trumpanche Mods start button lamp controller
SuperSkillShot.com “Smaug’s Horde Arkenstone” w/ Trumpanche Mods lamp & playfield accessory lamp controller
Trumpanche Mods trough lamp, warm white w/ Trumpanche Mods playfield accessory lamp controller
Trumpanche Mods translite illumination, daylight white w/ 4x Trumpanche Mods lamp controllers
PixelsArcadeGames.com “Throne of Erebor” mod w/ Trumpanche Mods playfield accessory lamp controller
PinWorlds.com “Bag End” mod w/ Trumpanche Mods playfield accessory lamp controller
JerseyJackPinball.com flippers x3, black
BackAlleyCreations.com “Gold Flipper Toppers” x2 (lower flippers)
TitanPinball.com silicone rubbers, clear
TitanPinball.com flipper rubbers, low bounce, black x2 (lower flippers)
TitanPinball.com flipper rubber, low bounce, red x1 (upper flipper)
CometPinball.com 12V spotlights, 8SMD, sunlight
MezelMods.com Gold Ring buttons (for flippers) —> no longer available
PinballLife.com Brite Buttons (used with Gold Ring flipper buttons), white / pulsing
LittleShopOfGames.com Art of Pinball mods: Action Button Sculpt, Barrel Legs, and Book Cover/Stand
ebay.com link: str Leg protectors
GameRoomGuys.com nylon leg bolt washers
Amazon.com Noctua NF-A8 PWM, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (80mm, Brown)

We have a few, the translite and the gold trough/backboard along with the lit Gandalf are the most popular.

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/categories/the-hobbit-pinball-mods

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I have these too. They are nice and also the yellow plastic protectors under the slings and out lane plastics and yellow under cab lighting. Also, the Treasure Trove art blades by Tilt graphics!

The lermods backboard lighting is a must, Get the multi color one and dial it in.

I highly recommend the Lermods translite. I prefer the WARM white, vs. the COOL white!!! It's easy to install. After installation, you are left with the original LED white strip (12v.) in the upper 2/3 thirds of the backbox. I had a free 2 split (12v.) Molex connector after installation of Trumpahche's pile of gold pulsating Arkenstone. I used that connector to activate the original LED strip. The result is very dramatic, though subtle.

Note: Minor irritating problem: At the lower corners of the translite, there is transmitted light between the translite black framing. I know there is an easy fix. Do you just tape the corners with black electrician tape? I know this has been a problem with other pinball machines. What is a better permanent fix than electrician tape?

Hadn’t noticed this and if you look at the pic I posted, I don’t see any light bleed. maybe adhere the leds strip facing inward along the wall rather than outward along the monitor.

Lermods: There is absolutely NOTHING WRONG with your mod!!! I would not change your installation instructions. The problem is with the quality control of the black translite framing.

Sorry to waste a pinside post but I had a shot of Jack Daniel's. The light bleeding @ each lower corner of my translite is secondary to the lower lift frame too short (1/2") resulting in a 1/4" window at each lower corner. With manipulation, I made them symmetric in appearance & they are not too distracting. Somewhere on Pinside, there was a post using an adhesive backed foam strip to block the bleeding.

Note: I've had other quality control issues with JJP's Hobbit. Thank God for the Hobbit Owners Thread for immediate fixes. If you haven't, DONATE TO PPINSIDE!!!

I’m stuck on this problem and would appreciate any insight. My orc target stopped registering. I disassembled the unit and it appears to function correctly.if I short the circuit with a diode, it appears to register correctly in switch matrix test, but will not register with the unit attached.

I swapped the spider unit in for troubleshooting and now I have the exact same problem with that target no longer registering but functioning correctly with a diode short inside of the spider assembly.

I’m stumped ‍♂️‍♂️

Bad molex connector on the switch?

Doesn’t appear so

I have a few of these barrel cup holders left. PM me if interested.

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If you haven't yet purchased the Book Cover & Stand from the LSofG ($175), or you are waiting for a back order, photos are of a quick fix to make the metal stand of the original book mod more esthetic while you wait. My quick fix can't compare to the LSofG Mod, but it "ain't too bad." If you haven't purchased the LSoG mod, I highly recommend it (I did but it was on back order, waiting 3+ months, so I came up with this quick fix for the interim).

You do not have to remove the book/stand unit from the playfield. The stand in the photo is a backup I had purchased from JJP.

Get a thin sheet of cedar, found in most cigar boxes (esp., Oliva V). Cut it to size (approx. 1.6 cm X 6.5 cm). If it's thin, you can use a paper cutter. Stain it with acrylic Burnt Sienna (I used Golden Fluid Acrylics brand). Affix stained cedar strip to metal stand with two 1 cm glue dots.

As you can see, the edge of the book cover & the cedar strip are a perfect match in color.

Hobbit Book Stand 001 (resized).JPG

Hobbit Book Stand 002 (resized).JPG

There is a setting for that I’m pretty sure in device tests. Try that first.

What's needed to rebuild his mouth:

1. Smaug Controller Board - Model 15-0035-00 - $66.99 shipped from JJP
2. Hobby King Servo - Model HK15328A ANALOG SERVO BB/MG 10.3KG / 0.21SEC / 58G - $9.99 plus shipping (I bought two servos for $16.78 shipped).

That Hobby King servo model has always been out of stock everytime I've checked it.

Is this not it?

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-hk15328a-standard-hi-torque-mg-bb-digital-servo-14-5kg-0-22sec-62g.html

The speed appears to be ~10x faster

Speed: 0.22sec/60deg @ 6V
vs
Speed: 0.025s / 60deg @ 4.8v, 0.21s / 60 deg @ 6v

Yea, I'm not sure it's the same. It says high torque. Anyone other Hobbit owners know what to buy?

Back in November, metahugh and I were exchanging emails about Smaug's mouth.

Here's what metahugh emailed me (partial):

------------------------------------
Happy Thanksgiving! It is fixed! After being down for more than 3 years Smaug is fully working again. I purchased two parts to get my Smaug 100%:

1. Smaug Controller Board - Model 15-0035-00 - $66.99 shipped from JJP
2. Hobby King Servo - Model HK15328A ANALOG SERVO BB/MG 10.3KG / 0.21SEC / 58G - $9.99 plus shipping (I bought two servos for $16.78 shipped).

I could have fixed the original PCB with some re-work but I ended up installing the new PCB instead, mainly because I didn't want to place a tiny order for the transistor that burned up. The solder pad the power transistor's ground tab was soldered to was completely lifted due to the heat produced. I assume the core issue was either a bad servo or the jaw movement limits weren't set properly. I got my Hobbit back when they were first being sold so there was no guidance provided about the mouth settings.
------------------------------------

According to him, the HK15328A works. I have yet to fix mine, but I got the parts.

He was super-helpful as well!

I had to say farewell to my Hobbit (Black Arrow Edition) last Friday. It was sad but I just didn't have enough cash to keep all my tables, and have a Godzilla incoming that I need to pay for. It's a great table. I'm really going to miss Smaug. This pin added a ton of variety to my Stern collection (of 1), and I'd really recommend having a JJP with a Stern collection. Also, I sold it for $9500 after listing it for 10,000, for anyone trying to get a sense of price for the Hobbit.

Farewell and I regret leaving the Hobbit Owners club!

Where did you get this 0.025s speed from?
This is the correct servo...
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-hk15328a-standard-hi-torque-mg-bb-digital-servo-14-5kg-0-22sec-62g.html?queryID=5fd77200de27db7d028ba4b23c5ef953&objectID=86341&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics

On that page, the specs show:
Torque: 14.5kg @ 6V
Speed: 0.22sec/60deg @ 6V

And the other shows:
Torque: 9.3kg/cm @ 4.8v, 10.3kg/cm @ 6v
Speed: 0.025s / 60deg @ 4.8v, 0.21s / 60 deg @ 6v

So if these are similar enough, perhaps there is a typo?

Yes, it's a typo.

Rules question: I was close to starting battle of five armies. I only needed to start beast MB. I needed one orc hurry up. I was shooting the right ramp so that the ball would roll over the inlane to light the orc. Only problem is it never lit the orc. I couldn't get the orc to pop up. It would light white when I rolled over and then turn off. Goblin was lit green and ready and one of the right side beasts was lit green and ready. I'm curious if anyone knows how you'd go about getting a certain beast to pop up if you only need that to progress? Thanks

Did I kill Smaug? I think so but honestly don’t know - its an insane (multi) multiball. Was hoping the status report would tell me, but it didn’t. Here’s what happened: I was there. Gandalf announced Kill Smaug and sure enough the left upper display showed the same. The ‘scale target’ was illuminated. I made the shot from a lower flipper and there was a lot of white strobes and dramatic sound effects, but Beast multiball was still going so I couldn’t look up. It’s not like the machine ever shut down to help me celebrate. I finished the multiball and everything was back to normal. Upon the next Smaug multiball, the jackpots were at their lower level again. So I must’ve done it, right? But it sure didn’t feel like the celebratory event that I keep hearing about. Would love to hear your thoughts. Did I do it? Is it better if the simultaneous multiballs are turned off? I wanted to celebrate and instead I was like, ‘what the heck just happened’?

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Nope!
Try again !!!
You will know when you kill Smaug .

You'll know cause the game stops and flippers go dead and the celebration begins.....I think..... been awhile since I did it but that's what I remember.

Very good. Thanks guys! Can’t believe I was RIGHT THERE and didn’t do it! Guess I really didn’t make the shot like I thought. But I scored Grand Champ and also finally got into Barrel Race, so I was excited about that. Thanks for reading and letting me know – I’ll keep at it!!

Finally a flipper cooling solution that actually works!

I just put these little coolers in, they arent listed in his store yet, so tell him you want the lower flippers hobbit one:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1391-ravspec/06744-extended-play-coil-coolers-jjp-wizard-of-oz

You only need the 2 lower flippers cooled, the upper right one doesnt need it.

They were super easy to install, however getting to the power tap connector is a big reach behind the rear of the playfield.

Its best and easiest to run the wire first with the playfield against the backbox and then lower it to the service position to install the fans.

Otherwise its quite a reach to install the fan screws. Much easier to just install the fan under the game as there are only 2 screws.

I ended up reaching the connector with one arm behind the playfield and the other in front of it (with the playfield leaning on the backbox) to effectively be able to seperate the molex connector to install the provided tap with 2 hands. Yes you cant see it, but its easy to do it blind.

The provided wires and connectors are very high quality and snap together tightly.

I routed my wire along the main harness (big black hose) easily and used about 12 zip ties to get all the wires cleanly out of the way.

My only very minor gripe was I needed to use a #2 Philips screwdriver to install the fan brackets. The holes in them wouldn't accommodate my nutdriver.

So, I loosened the baseplate screws and removed them with my magnetic nut driver, then switched to a magnetic screwdriver to install the fans (not really a problem, its probably just me...).

The fans really work well and they are super quiet!

No flipper fade, the flippers remain very powerful during the longest multiballs and the longest games.

In my opinion, you really need these on your game, they actually work.

Just have a beer between balls. Best cooling solution.

Yeah, I generally do that, but still the flipper coils heat up fast and lose power during a good ball.

This isnt a sales pitch, Im not making them. But its been a problem since day one on this game. The solution offered works very well.

these little fans are quiet and simple to install. Real simple, a 10 or 15 min install, thats it.

totally changes everything in the game.

I was surprised as to how much things changed by having more power endlessly.

I got scorbit running on my game last night.

Its kinda fun!

Im not sure that its anything that I personally would use to any great extent.

But, its fun to play with and I didnt have any trouble getting it to work on my Wi Fi as I have a node in my gameroom for my Sonos.

Has anyone else fiddled around with the scorbit option?

I used this adapter and just plugged it into the end of the USB cable next to the coinbox.
Booted the game and it was seen instantly with no software drivers needed:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Mini-Wireless-Supports-10-9-10-14/dp/B07PB1X4CN/ref=rvi_sccl_3/133-7307165-3067959

Hooked it up to my WiFi and it connected pretty easily.

I added the scorbit app to my android phone made an account, followed the instructions on my phone and th game connected.

One thing, you should put your initials in your profile as the scorbit adds them in for you.
Otherwise it just uses your user name.

I have 5 games running scorbit. It is fun and easy. You can easily create a display for your gameroom tv that tracks what is going on and high scores via scorbit as well. If you have JJP games it is a no brainer.

Thank you for the kind words and Im happy to be able to offer these to the community. It sounds like some of you have been dealing with this issue for far to long. Just getting my new shop tooled up and I will have stock posted on my shop by the end of the week.

-RavSpec: Play Longer-

This has been a problem from the start.

Ive had my game since week 3 of initial production.

Cooling fans are like night and day!

Thank you so much for these!