Oh yeah! From SC to MO and back!
20220210_164859 (resized).jpgHas anyone removed the ramp? I started to polish it, and the cut letters are making it very challenging. I would like to remove it, polish it with mothers metal polish, and put it back. Anyone have any pointers, insights, or directions on how to remove it. If not I guess I will start unscrewing things until it comes off LOL
Quoted from Goronic:Has anyone removed the ramp? I started to polish it, and the cut letters are making it very challenging. I would like to remove it, polish it with mothers metal polish, and put it back. Anyone have any pointers, insights, or directions on how to remove it. If not I guess I will start unscrewing things until it comes off LOL
Taking the ramp out is a major PITA. I had to do it when I replaced the first gen ramp flaps. It's something I never want to do again.
Quoted from Goronic:Has anyone removed the ramp? I started to polish it, and the cut letters are making it very challenging. I would like to remove it, polish it with mothers metal polish, and put it back. Anyone have any pointers, insights, or directions on how to remove it. If not I guess I will start unscrewing things until it comes off LOL
I replaced my ramp when the welds broke. You pretty much have to unscrew everything to get to it, so your approach sounds as good as any
Quoted from Goronic:Has anyone removed the ramp? I started to polish it, and the cut letters are making it very challenging. I would like to remove it, polish it with mothers metal polish, and put it back. Anyone have any pointers, insights, or directions on how to remove it. If not I guess I will start unscrewing things until it comes off LOL
Its not too bad, just take your time.
Sounds like a bit of a nightmare. I think I will tackle it some other time. Thanks for all the info.
Quoted from bossk4hire:Ok yall... I'm really enjoying the game! What a blast.... but what and how does this red target come in to play in the game? Right outlane. Thanks!
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I had the same question - here is what I found from another pinside user:
The Beorn target becomes active during multiballs. You will know this because the right inlane lamps strobe in a sequence towards the target when it is active. Hitting this target adds a ball. It's similar to the outlane add a balls that were added to WOZ in the late update.
Quoted from Dreadreaper:I had the same question - here is what I found from another pinside user:
The Beorn target becomes active during multiballs. You will know this because the right inlane lamps strobe in a sequence towards the target when it is active. Hitting this target adds a ball. It's similar to the outlane add a balls that were added to WOZ in the late update.
Awesome! Thanks for the info! I'll try and watch for it.
Quoted from Dreadreaper:I had the same question - here is what I found from another pinside user:
The Beorn target becomes active during multiballs. You will know this because the right inlane lamps strobe in a sequence towards the target when it is active. Hitting this target adds a ball. It's similar to the outlane add a balls that were added to WOZ in the late update.
This is correct. If you lose a ball down the right side during mb, a well time up nudge will get the ball back.
For those of you struggling with killing Smaug, you can sort of cheat in a way. Get a ball trapped on the left flipper then shoot the right ramp to load the arrow. Post transfer the ball from the left to the right flipper. Ignore the arrow ball being shot at the upper flipper. Hit the blinking target from the lower right flipper.
Quoted from Beyndtstng:For those of you struggling with killing Smaug, you can sort of cheat in a way. Get a ball trapped on the left flipper then shoot the right ramp to load the arrow. Post transfer the ball from the left to the right flipper. Ignore the arrow ball being shot at the upper flipper. Hit the blinking target from the lower right flipper.
I have killed him about 4 or 5 times and that is the way I typically do it. However, the real rush is hitting it from the top right flipper. Now THAT is an even more satisfying shot.
In fact, I would like a setting you can turn on that when you fire the ball out of the kickback you can't fire the flippers on the bottom of the playfield for a second to force the shot to come from the top right flipper. I don't think anyone else would be a fan of that though. :/
Quoted from Goronic:I have killed him about 4 or 5 times and that is the way I typically do it. However, the real rush is hitting it from the top right flipper. Now THAT is an even more satisfying shot.
In fact, I would like a setting you can turn on that when you fire the ball out of the kickback you can't fire the flippers on the bottom of the playfield for a second to force the shot to come from the top right flipper. I don't think anyone else would be a fan of that though. :/
That would almost certainly kill the mb on most games (assuming you have one trapped). That would give you one shot…. Lots of pressure!
Quoted from Dreadreaper:I had the same question - here is what I found from another pinside user:
The Beorn target becomes active during multiballs. You will know this because the right inlane lamps strobe in a sequence towards the target when it is active. Hitting this target adds a ball. It's similar to the outlane add a balls that were added to WOZ in the late update.
Yeh first month owning this I thought was ball save on single ball. Would shake the S out of the machine and get so pissed despite the target registering fine in tests I thought was broken. So yeh it’s def a MB thing
Quoted from moat-pin:Yeh first month owning this I thought was ball save on single ball. Would shake the S out of the machine and get so pissed despite the target registering fine in tests I thought was broken. So yeh it’s def a MB thing
My understanding is that target only provides an add a ball during a MB.
I replaced all the beasts with Liors and they look great! But, I finally had one of the wires for this beast break. So I will have to solder a new wire on. Not that big a deal - but I am wondering if I can get a more durable wire to replace it with - a stronger tougher one.
Anyone have any suggestions on a better (higher quality) wire that I should use? Or should I just replace it with a wire of like quality?
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Quoted from Goronic:My understanding is that target only provides an add a ball during a MB.
Your understanding is correct
Quoted from Goronic:I replaced all the beasts with Liors and they look great! But, I finally had one of the wires for this beast break. So I will have to solder a new wire on. Not that big a deal - but I am wondering if I can get a more durable wire to replace it with - a stronger tougher one.
Anyone have any suggestions on a better (higher quality) wire that I should use? Or should I just replace it with a wire of like quality?
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Lengthen and re-route the wire so it's not an issue, the factory wiring is kind of not well placed IMO.
Quoted from PinballHaven:Lengthen and re-route the wire so it's not an issue, the factory wiring is kind of not well placed IMO.
I just went the easy route and repaired it with a solder seal wire connector. When I get some free time I think I will rewire them with new longer and better wiring.
Lior beasts are in and ready for battle! If I’m being honest, I prefer the larger proportion of the originals, but these replacements are very nice.
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Quoted from darkryder:Lior beasts are in and ready for battle! If I’m being honest, I prefer the larger proportion of the originals, but these replacements are very nice.
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They are awesome. I am very pleased with mine. I think the size is perfect. The originals were a tad too big in my opinion.
Ha, yes. I just played a few warm up games after installing the new beast heads and then went on a tear the third game and defeated Smaug, reached level 3 Into the Fire, level 3 Barrel Escape and put up a score of 2.8M plus Feast Frenzy Champ and a few other champs. Hadn’t played Hobbit in at least a year, this game is so immersive and amazing. It’s never going anywhere! My arms and wrists hurt, Hobbit is such a workout.
Quoted from darkryder:Lior beasts are in and ready for battle! If I’m being honest, I prefer the larger proportion of the originals, but these replacements are very nice.
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They look badass! It's a shame they're usually hidden below the playfield
Quoted from Travahontas:They look badass! It's a shame they're usually hidden below the playfield
First I seen these, must have in my opinion.
For those Hobbit fans who use Scorbit, we're pleased to announce that Scorbit v1.2 is here, with some major changes to challenges and playing flow.
Check out the details in the Scorbit thread here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/scorbit-official-thread/page/11#post-6788938
Quoted from darkryder:Lior beasts are in and ready for battle! If I’m being honest, I prefer the larger proportion of the originals, but these replacements are very nice.
Very nice indeed! I'm digging my Hobbit's new beasts!
Compared to Lior's mods, the original beasts look like gumball machine prizes.
Quoted from Goronic:but I am wondering if I can get a more durable wire to replace it with - a stronger tougher one.
Anyone have any suggestions on a better (higher quality) wire that I should use?
lamp cord , that yellow transparent wire they use on lamps, i used that on my star wars ( atari arcade) and my T2 (midway arcade) as the controls take a beating and kept breaking, no problem since.
In case anyone was looking for a full set of NOS RAD CALs for Hobbit Black Arrow:
Quoted from darkryder:Lior beasts are in and ready for battle! If I’m being honest, I prefer the larger proportion of the originals, but these replacements are very nice.
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400$ for the 4 beast targets (not knocking the price but....) so you can beat the crap out of them with a steel ball!! LOL
Quoted from meSz:400$ for the 4 beast targets (not knocking the price but....) so you can beat the crap out of them with a steel ball!! LOL
They are REALLY nice, true art and look AMAZING!
Still, I bought 2 spare sets of the originals at the last JJP clearance sale for $25/set instead...
I just couldnt bear to beat them all up in my game. They are too nice.
I love the lior beasts and glad I have them in my game. The price is worth the craftsmanship and quality. The hobbit is already gorgeous and this just adds to an amazing looking game. No regrets
So I'm going to replace my main hobbit ramp in the middle(or just replace the flaps as they are badly warped). Figured either way it has to come off. Any advice or guides on how to remove that beast??
Quoted from bemmett:So I'm going to replace my main hobbit ramp in the middle(or just replace the flaps as they are badly warped). Figured either way it has to come off. Any advice or guides on how to remove that beast??
It’s a bit of a project, but not too difficult. For me, the main issue was removing the optos as they are held in with plastic clips that can break. Go slow and remove them carefully and you’ll be fine. The rest is just some screws to get the ramp assembly out.
Quoted from bemmett:So I'm going to replace my main hobbit ramp in the middle(or just replace the flaps as they are badly warped). Figured either way it has to come off. Any advice or guides on how to remove that beast??
If you have an early build with the silver flaps you should be able to get the newer flaps from JJP without cost, just FYI. The newer flaps are darker and less prone to bending / airballs is my understanding.
Quoted from PinballHaven:If you have an early build with the silver flaps you should be able to get the newer flaps from JJP without cost, just FYI. The newer flaps are darker and less prone to bending / airballs is my understanding.
Ya I got the flaps on the way(cause yes it has the old ones) but I don't trust myself riveting. In either case I got a new ramp assembly just in case cause it already has the flaps attached. Either way I have to take it out so I'll be prepared! So I can try my hand at the rivets and if I fail have a good backup.
Quoted from Lermods:It’s a bit of a project, but not too difficult. For me, the main issue was removing the optos as they are held in with plastic clips that can break. Go slow and remove them carefully and you’ll be fine. The rest is just some screws to get the ramp assembly out.
Yuck, that sounds crappy. Are these plastic clips for sale anywhere, I always anticipate things not going as planned so rather have the parts handy just in case.
Quoted from bemmett:Ya I got the flaps on the way(cause yes it has the old ones) but I don't trust myself riveting. In either case I got a new ramp assembly just in case cause it already has the flaps attached. Either way I have to take it out so I'll be prepared! So I can try my hand at the rivets and if I fail have a good backup.
Yuck, that sounds crappy. Are these plastic clips for sale anywhere, I always anticipate things not going as planned so rather have the parts handy just in case.
Not sure if the sell just the holder, might need the opto assembly. It’s been several years since I did it.
Quoted from bemmett:Ya I got the flaps on the way(cause yes it has the old ones) but I don't trust myself riveting. In either case I got a new ramp assembly just in case cause it already has the flaps attached. Either way I have to take it out so I'll be prepared! So I can try my hand at the rivets and if I fail have a good backup.
Yuck, that sounds crappy. Are these plastic clips for sale anywhere, I always anticipate things not going as planned so rather have the parts handy just in case.
well the thing about riveting is if you mess it up you just drill it out and try again.......you will figure it out!
Quoted from Goronic:I replaced all the beasts with Liors and they look great! But, I finally had one of the wires for this beast break. So I will have to solder a new wire on. Not that big a deal - but I am wondering if I can get a more durable wire to replace it with - a stronger tougher one.
Anyone have any suggestions on a better (higher quality) wire that I should use? Or should I just replace it with a wire of like quality?
[quoted image]
Quoted from PinballHaven:Lengthen and re-route the wire so it's not an issue, the factory wiring is kind of not well placed IMO.
When the Hobbit LE was first released (5 yrs ago), one of the major problems was the lead wires of the beast mechanisms were getting amputated. I checked mine & sure enough, the wire insulation was getting indented. It would be only a matter of time & they would be amputated. In the early posts of the Hobbit Owners Thread, LTG (or another pinsider) remedied the situation with insertion of a 3/4" or 1/2" metal washer to protect/move the wire leads out of the way. I suggest review of the early Hobbit Owners Thread posts or contact LTG (if he still reeling to respond)
Quoted from docdeath:or contact LTG (if he still reeling to respond)
Sorry. No. Not on jjp issues.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Sorry. No. Not on jjp issues.
LTG : )
LTG: Sorry you have left input of your expertise on LE Hobbit issues on the Hobbit Owners Thread. Your IMMEDIATE response to the many issues/problems of the initial release of the LE Hobbit were invaluable: Immediate, informative diagnoses with definitive photos. I & other pinsiders thank you. Your immediate input was better than using the $125 owners manual.
Note: I used the word "reeling" in my recent post. The correct word is "willing." Do to LONG COVID & Jack Daniel's, it was my subconscious wish to "reel" you back into our Hobbit Owners Thread.
I own two Hobbit’s. I will not be buying or supporting JJP going forward as I don’t like the direction the company has taken! And the treatment of its loyal employee's.
LTG you are awesome!
freddy
Quoted from bossk4hire:Oh yeah! From SC to MO and back!
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Sometimes that's what it takes haha . We're all nuts aren't we! Doing an easy 7 hour round trip mid month to grab mine.
Quoted from Lermods:It’s a bit of a project, but not too difficult. For me, the main issue was removing the optos as they are held in with plastic clips that can break. Go slow and remove them carefully and you’ll be fine. The rest is just some screws to get the ramp assembly out.
No need to remove the optos from ramp Just unplug them from under playfield and pull them out attached to ramp.
Any thoughts on Side Blades for Hobbit? I have the Black Arrow edition and am taking the playfield out. This is the time to install some side blades. I am thinking about mirrored blades? I saw some cool ones that look like a map heading to Erabor too. I would appreciate feedback from anyone that has installed blades and what you think of them. Thanks!
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