(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

6 years ago


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  • 11,327 posts
  • 680 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by pinballinreno
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16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 11,327 posts in this topic. You are on page 224 of 227.
#11151 4 months ago
Quoted from Goronic:

Unless I am missing something the flap door on the playfield side must be removed to remove the assembly below, correct?

yeah sorry I should have mentioned that. Needlenose pliars and you can grab the clip, hold the spring closed and the beast up with your other hand. Repeat on other side. They're a beast the first time.......but it gets easier sort of.

#11152 4 months ago
Quoted from Plungerboy:

yeah sorry I should have mentioned that. Needlenose pliars and you can grab the clip, hold the spring closed and the beast up with your other hand. Repeat on other side. They're a beast the first time.......but it gets easier sort of.

Don’t forget to stuff a rag in the open area of the beast just in case you drop the spring or clip. You can also lay a rag on each side of the beast you’re working on and use a small screwdriver(or something else)to wedge underneath the beast mechanism and hold it up hands free…now you can work with two hands.

#11153 3 months ago

I'm sure the answer is somewhere on this thread. The back bracket on my Goblin pop-up is hitting the bottom side of the playfield and will not pop up. What is the best way to fix this? Thank you.

#11154 3 months ago
Quoted from eroomnek:

I'm sure the answer is somewhere on this thread. The back bracket on my Goblin pop-up is hitting the bottom side of the playfield and will not pop up. What is the best way to fix this? Thank you.

Bend the mech out of the way.

#11155 3 months ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

Don’t forget to stuff a rag in the open area of the beast just in case you drop the spring or clip. You can also lay a rag on each side of the beast you’re working on and use a small screwdriver(or something else)to wedge underneath the beast mechanism and hold it up hands free…now you can work with two hands.

** An absolute must!!
Also, remove that left habitrail if your working near it. It's a PITA to work around!

#11156 3 months ago

My Smaug mouth moves sometimes and sometimes not. Also, when it moves, sometimes it moves correctly and sometimes not? What should I suspect is the problem before I tear it apart for the first time??
Thanks

#11157 3 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

My Smaug mouth moves sometimes and sometimes not. Also, when it moves, sometimes it moves correctly and sometimes not? What should I suspect is the problem before I tear it apart for the first time??
Thanks

Could be a flakey servo, could be a loose connector or broken wire.

#11158 3 months ago

I have an unresolved issue on my Hobbit - intermittently during multiballs, the flippers will die and drain me out.
I suspect trough boards but I haven't been able to confirm it, device test always seems to work.

Intermittent problems suck, I may just buy new trough boards to see it fixes things.

I want to get it fixed as I want to sell it, I have need for cash and space.

#11159 3 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

My Smaug mouth moves sometimes and sometimes not. Also, when it moves, sometimes it moves correctly and sometimes not? What should I suspect is the problem before I tear it apart for the first time??
Thanks

My guess would be wonky/sticky mechanism. Search this forum for ‘rubber band’ for how I addressed that on mine.

#11160 3 months ago

Has any pinsider received their LSofG Beast Heads? On Jan. 18th, their website stated the Heads had cleared customs & they are in the process of fulfilling orders. I'm sure they are swamped! They are quite expensive ($359 + shipping) but their quality & workmanship are worth it. Their site of origin is the Middle East (Israel), not Europe (Germany) as many pinsiders think. When items are sent, I hope a tracking # is provided!

#11161 3 months ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Has any pinsider received their LSofG Beast Heads? On Jan. 18th, their website stated the Heads had cleared customs & they are in the process of fulfilling orders. I'm sure they are swamped! They are quite expensive ($359 + shipping) but their quality & workmanship are worth it. Their site of origin is the Middle East (Israel), not Europe (Germany) as many pinsiders think. When items are sent, I hope a tracking # is provided!

I haven’t, and LSOG ignored my last email a few weeks ago.

#11162 3 months ago

I have sent multiple emails (2 weeks +) with no response with respect to order fulfillment/shipping. Is it time to be concerned? I'm I too impatient? Is Covid-19 delaying the process? I know they are probably swamped with order fulfillment, but we need some communication.

#11163 3 months ago
Quoted from docdeath:

I have sent multiple emails (2 weeks +) with no response with respect to order fulfillment/shipping. Is it time to be concerned? I'm I too impatient? Is Covid-19 delaying the process? I know they are probably swamped with order fulfillment, but we need some communication.

LSOGs has the beasts in Florida and some people have received emails with tracking numbers. I didn't get my email yet. Should be soon.

#11164 3 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

LSOGs has the beasts in Florida and some people have received emails with tracking numbers. I didn't get my email yet. Should be soon.

Agree. Be patient, they will be delivered soon. Stay cool bro!

#11165 3 months ago

Still waiting for mine as well. No tracking number yet.

#11166 3 months ago
Quoted from docdeath:

Has any pinsider received their LSofG Beast Heads? On Jan. 18th, their website stated the Heads had cleared customs & they are in the process of fulfilling orders. I'm sure they are swamped! They are quite expensive ($359 + shipping) but their quality & workmanship are worth it. Their site of origin is the Middle East (Israel), not Europe (Germany) as many pinsiders think. When items are sent, I hope a tracking # is provided!

I received mine Friday and installed them yesterday.

Such an improvement over the original beasts!

#11167 3 months ago

Also still waiting for my LSOG order tracking.

#11168 3 months ago

Hey guys, I’ve got a question for you about the Lock switches and buttons. The LOC buttons are all good. The K button I was having a hard time adjusting to make it register every time the ball rolls over it even slowly. Then I noticed that on the top side of the playfield the actual clear button does. Raise as high as the other 3. I took apart and looked if there was any adjustment or anything like that and I can’t seem to change the height. Do other Hobbits have the same issue? What was the fix? I’m thinking about buying a new switch and clear plastic button for on top as well. Sorry I only have a picture of the bottom side and not topside of the playfield.

65B405F9-40BA-4D78-8C77-BEF81A46BDEC (resized).jpeg
#11169 3 months ago
Quoted from Bay78:

Hey guys, I’ve got a question for you about the Lock switches and buttons. The LOC buttons are all good. The K button I was having a hard time adjusting to make it register every time the ball rolls over it even slowly. Then I noticed that on the top side of the playfield the actual clear button does. Raise as high as the other 3. I took apart and looked if there was any adjustment or anything like that and I can’t seem to change the height. Do other Hobbits have the same issue? What was the fix? I’m thinking about buying a new switch and clear plastic button for on top as well. Sorry I only have a picture of the bottom side and not topside of the playfield.
[quoted image]

The way to raise or lower the LOCK buttons would be to adjust the switch from below(manually bend higher or lower). I have my buttons as low as possible to the playfield so they don’t cause airballs while trying to shoot the ramps. I also have my switches adjusted as close as possible(sensitive)without having ghost registers.

#11170 3 months ago

Just got my shipping / tracking from LSOG, progress!

#11171 3 months ago

There appears to be two methods to replace the Beast Heads from LSogG: LTG: remove spring clips & playfield tin flap, raise playfield & remove 3 to 4 screws of beast mechanism, detach wire leads & remove entire beast mechanism from below the playfield. Or: remove spring clips & playfield tin flap, do something else (?) and remove just the inner beast head mechanism from above the playfield. I need help with what appears the second easier method! Forgive me if I have miss-interrupted previous posts (it might be Covid-9 long brain fog).

*HINT: When you replace the Beast Heads using the two small machine screws, USE LOCTITE!

#11172 3 months ago
Quoted from docdeath:

There appears to be two methods to replace the Beast Heads from LSogG: LTG: remove spring clips & playfield tin flap, raise playfield & remove 3 to 4 screws of beast mechanism, detach wire leads & remove entire beast mechanism from below the playfield. Or: remove spring clips & playfield tin flap, do something else (?) and remove just the inner beast head mechanism from above the playfield. I need help with what appears the second easier method! Forgive me if I have miss-interrupted previous posts (it might be Covid-9 long brain fog).
*HINT: When you replace the Beast Heads using the two small machine screws, USE LOCTITE!

I replaced mine from above. Raised the beast mech manually by pushing up from below the playfield, placed a popsicle stick (on top of the playfield and under the raised beast mech) to hold it in place, removed the playfield flap assembly temporarily, and then removed the two screws attaching the beast.

Reverse the process and the new beast is done.

Rinse and repeat for the other three. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

#11173 3 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

I replaced mine from above. Raised the beast mech manually by pushing up from below the playfield, placed a popsicle stick (on top of the playfield and under the raised beast mech) to hold it in place, removed the playfield flap assembly temporarily, and then removed the two screws attaching the beast.
Reverse the process and the new beast is done.
Rinse and repeat for the other three. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

This is the easiest method by far...

#11174 3 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

I replaced mine from above. Raised the beast mech manually by pushing up from below the playfield, placed a popsicle stick (on top of the playfield and under the raised beast mech) to hold it in place, removed the playfield flap assembly temporarily, and then removed the two screws attaching the beast.
Reverse the process and the new beast is done.
Rinse and repeat for the other three. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

This is the easiest method by far...

Thanks!!!

Reason for LOCTITE: Four years ago, I found a small machine screw in the bottom of my cabinet. LTG said, more likely than not, it's from a beast head. It was a top screw of the right upper head. With extreme difficulty, I was able to re-screw the top site using LOCTITE. Last week, I found a similar screw in the bottom of the cabinet. It turn out that it was the lower screw of the same head! Use LOCTITE!

#11175 3 months ago

LSOG tracking! Woot woot!

#11176 3 months ago

Yeah, I tried adjusting the switch under and it doesn’t change the level of the button on top. Not that I noticed anyway. Thanks though.

Quoted from Wildbill327:

The way to raise or lower the LOCK buttons would be to adjust the switch from below(manually bend higher or lower). I have my buttons as low as possible to the playfield so they don’t cause airballs while trying to shoot the ramps. I also have my switches adjusted as close as possible(sensitive)without having ghost registers.

#11177 3 months ago

Hello,

Apologies for the delays. We have many backorders we are processing and getting them out as quickly as we can. The Indiana Jones Ultimate Set, Hobbit Beast Heads, GNR Drum Sets and restocks all arrived at the same time, so you can imagine how many packages we are shuffling around.

Please send me a PM here or email to [email protected] if you have specific concerns.

audio,

Marshall Dickson
Little Shop of Games

#11178 3 months ago

Got the notification that mine are in the mail. Looking forward to these!

#11179 3 months ago

Hi everyone, I finally bought my first pin, the Hobbit. Everything on the pin works except for Smaug’s mouth not opening. His head actuates. I’ve gone through the settings to try and adjust it and the mouth does not move at all. Any suggestions of where to start to troubleshoot this? Thanks so much. It looks like all of the connections are secure.

#11180 3 months ago
Quoted from ColoradoJordan:

Hi everyone, I finally bought my first pin, the Hobbit. Everything on the pin works except for Smaug’s mouth not opening. His head actuates. I’ve gone through the settings to try and adjust it and the mouth does not move at all. Any suggestions of where to start to troubleshoot this? Thanks so much. It looks like all of the connections are secure.

Congratulations! Hobbit is my first and only pin as well

Mouth is a common issue. The mechanism binds up and the servo motor eventually destroys itself. Try searching this forum for the term “servo” and there’s lots of helpful info on how to replace and calibrate it.

#11181 3 months ago

I searched through the forum here pretty well, and while there is plenty of mention of rollovers and registering/adjusting - I didn't find a clear answer as to how to approach it -

The 'C' rollover on my game doesn't really register with the ball crossing over it, if I go into switch test and press it down it registers pretty easily. I have a leaf switch adjustment tool. I have lifted the playfield and investigated the game and compared 'C' to the other rollovers, it seems the same as the ones that work.

Does anyone have a suggestion for adjusting the rollover (leaf switch, button, whatever) so that the 'C' will register more frequently than 1 out of every 10 good contacts with it?

#11182 3 months ago
Quoted from vikeking27:

I searched through the forum here pretty well, and while there is plenty of mention of rollovers and registering/adjusting - I didn't find a clear answer as to how to approach it -
The 'C' rollover on my game doesn't really register with the ball crossing over it, if I go into switch test and press it down it registers pretty easily. I have a leaf switch adjustment tool. I have lifted the playfield and investigated the game and compared 'C' to the other rollovers, it seems the same as the ones that work.
Does anyone have a suggestion for adjusting the rollover (leaf switch, button, whatever) so that the 'C' will register more frequently than 1 out of every 10 good contacts with it?

clean where it contact with ISO and a q-tip might help. Replace if manual adjustments aren't working, presuming solder is good (might want to reflow that).

#11183 3 months ago
Quoted from Plungerboy:

clean where it contact with ISO and a q-tip might help. Replace if manual adjustments aren't working, presuming solder is good (might want to reflow that).

Cleaning seems to have made a noticeable difference, I also used some compressed air from the top just in case there was some kind of particulate binding up the playfield side. Thanks for the tip!

#11184 3 months ago

Has anyone tried spicing one of these in for the backglass lights?
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/brightness-adjusters

Screenshot_20220206-090628_Chrome (resized).jpg
#11185 3 months ago
Quoted from bossk4hire:

Has anyone tried spicing one of these in for the backglass lights?
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/brightness-adjusters
[quoted image]

Kind of. I replaced my back glass LEDs with 4 strips around the perimeter and dimmers.

#11186 3 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

I replaced mine from above. Raised the beast mech manually by pushing up from below the playfield, placed a popsicle stick (on top of the playfield and under the raised beast mech) to hold it in place, removed the playfield flap assembly temporarily, and then removed the two screws attaching the beast.
Reverse the process and the new beast is done.
Rinse and repeat for the other three. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Replacing the Beast Heads was not "easy peasy" for me. One really needs patience, 4 shots of Jack Daniel's & a magnetic wand/probe to retrieve accidently dropped spring clips, springs & screws into the beast mechanism.

My approach: Raise playfield to rest on top of front cabinet (it does not have to be tilted back to the back box). From under the playfield, stuff a wash rag or paper towels into the beast mechanism to raise & stabilize it above the playfield. Remove spring clips, springs & playfield flap. Remove the two screws and 2-holed base plate from back of beast head & lift head out. The next step is important to reduce fumbling with individual screws & baseplate: Take the replacement head from LSofG and attach both screws with base plate before inserting it into the mechanism. Screw in the screws about 2mm. Make sure they are oriented straight up & down. Now insert head with limited attached screws & base plate into beast mechanism & finished the anchoring with a small sized wrench. It wasn't until the fourth head (wolf head with recessed back) that I thought of this easier, less time consuming approach. Now, of course, attach playfield flap, springs & clips. Remove wash rag/paper towels from inside beast mechanism & make sure it moves up and down smoothly.

It was interesting to note that after 500+ games (my Hobbit is 4+ yrs. old) the JJP's beast heads showed no damage.

#11187 3 months ago

One of my slug plastics broke and I figure out why - the metal axe hits the plastic on the way back up. It also seems loose side to side. So if you are looking from directly above the sling it “wiggles” a lot in the 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock position and the recoils too far back (9 o’clock) and hits the plastic. How does one adjust this properly? Thanks!

#11188 3 months ago
Quoted from Trumpanche:

Kind of. I replaced my back glass LEDs with 4 strips around the perimeter and dimmers.

What did you replace it with exactly? Did you have to splice something or just found an adapter that is plug and play? I’d like to light the back box up better.

#11189 3 months ago
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

One of my slug plastics broke and I figure out why - the metal axe hits the plastic on the way back up. It also seems loose side to side. So if you are looking from directly above the sling it “wiggles” a lot in the 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock position and the recoils too far back (9 o’clock) and hits the plastic. How does one adjust this properly? Thanks!

I used a small file to make the slot in the plastic slightly deeper so the axe no longer made contact.

#11190 3 months ago
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

What did you replace it with exactly? Did you have to splice something or just found an adapter that is plug and play? I’d like to light the back box up better.

I bought some connectors, cheap 12V strip lights, and dimmers and wired it all up to the 12V accessory plug near the computer in the lower cabinet. I was doing a lot of lighting mods at the time, so it wasn't a big deal... but gathering all the components is a bit of a chore. I think I ended up deciding I only needed two dimmers because the side strips could use the same medium setting, the top strip didn't need any dimming, and the bottom strip needed maximum dimming.

It did turn out nicely.

Picture1 (resized).png
#11191 3 months ago

Pumped to be joining the club tomorrow!

#11192 3 months ago
Quoted from bossk4hire:

Pumped to be joining the club tomorrow!

13499F6E-48D2-4C25-BAEF-F347BAD19972.jpeg
#11193 3 months ago
Quoted from bossk4hire:

Pumped to be joining the club tomorrow!

Welcome! It’s such a great game. Now I’m biased as I own it but it really is. I haven’t played it for a little while as I got a GNR but played last night and had one of my best games and killed Smaug - man is that not one of the most satisfying shots in pinball! And into the fire is one of the coolest wizard modes. You’re gonna love it!

#11194 3 months ago
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

Welcome! It’s such a great game. Now I’m biased as I own it but it really is. I haven’t played it for a little while as I got a GNR but played last night and had one of my best games and killed Smaug - man is that not one of the most satisfying shots in pinball! And into the fire is one of the coolest wizard modes. You’re gonna love it!

True. It is an amazing shot to hit - with really nice effects after you kill him. It is an fantastic pin because you really feel like you are in the movie. JJP had access to pretty much all the audio, sound effects and images from the movie. It really is un-paralleled in assets (well except for maybe GnR - Slash gave them pretty much everything too).

#11195 3 months ago
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

Welcome! It’s such a great game. Now I’m biased as I own it but it really is. I haven’t played it for a little while as I got a GNR but played last night and had one of my best games and killed Smaug - man is that not one of the most satisfying shots in pinball! And into the fire is one of the coolest wizard modes. You’re gonna love it!

It took me 18 months to finally make the shot on Smaug. I'm sure the neighbors heard

#11196 3 months ago
Quoted from Trumpanche:

It took me 18 months to finally make the shot on Smaug. I'm sure the neighbors heard

I still haven't done it!

#11197 3 months ago

So… who knows what servo can be used for Smaug’s mouth? Looks like the one from Hobby King has been discontinued.

#11200 3 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I still haven't done it!

I did it in my first month and didn’t know what happened……haven’t hit it since

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