(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 44 hours ago by LTG
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There are 12,956 posts in this topic. You are on page 209 of 260.
#10401 2 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

They are a bit expensive, but custom pieces like this aren't cheap either. I wish it was a bit lower, but they are too good to pass up. I will order, they look much better and are certainly more durable. I already had one of the originals break on me. So that alone had me ready to get 'solid' replacements. The fact that they look much better is icing on the cake.

I feel the same way, the JJP parts aren’t cheap either this is a better value that looks great and should outlast me-

#10402 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

I feel the same way, the JJP parts aren’t cheap either this is a better value that looks great and should outlast me-

I paid $65 for a Warg replacement, so these are only ~$25 more per head

#10403 2 years ago

I bought a whole new set of heads from J.J. on 5/5/20 for 35.99 each plus 12.00 shipping. Total 155.96 USD ... I still have the receipt.
These replacement sculpted beast heads are awesome, but definitely expensive!
Regardless, if I hadn't already bought a new original set, I'd probably buy these because they are better built and so great looking!

#10404 2 years ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

I paid $65 for a Warg replacement, so these are only ~$25 more per head

Where did you buy from?

#10405 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Is it just me or is this game way harder to control the ball on the flippers? Something about the inlane guides are very bouncy, so something I could typically coming from a loop (or similar) tends to bounce so hard it pops back to the opposite sling and gets all out of control. People say this game is too easy, I’d like to see them play mine! Is it just me or do you all notice this?

Because of the bouncy inlanes I have installed the Anti Hopping Mod.
It was developed by the German Pinsider Jim Beam.
With this Mod the ball control is much better, especially during MB

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-hobbit-mod-stop-for-jumping-ball-at-the-outlanes#post-4099584

#10406 2 years ago
Quoted from DrDoom:

Because of the bouncy inlanes I have installed the Anti Hopping Mod.
It was developed by the German Pinsider Jim Beam.
With this Mod the ball control is much better, especially during MB
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-hobbit-mod-stop-for-jumping-ball-at-the-outlanes#post-4099584

Can you post before and after videos?

Im not clear on what this does at all.

#10407 2 years ago
Quoted from DrDoom:

Because of the bouncy inlanes I have installed the Anti Hopping Mod.
It was developed by the German Pinsider Jim Beam.
With this Mod the ball control is much better, especially during MB
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-hobbit-mod-stop-for-jumping-ball-at-the-outlanes#post-4099584

Ok that’s crazy! That is exactly the solution I was envisioning when playing last night. I’ll get video tonight to explain what I mean, but basically those wire inlane guides (as opposed to a solid metal inlane guide) are Way More springy and make the ball hop like crazy. Like a ball coming from the right orbit and hitting the left flipper will hop over to the other flipper, but this is hitting the metal wire inlane guide above the flipper and bouncing wildly to the right sling (and often straight to a drain). Normally if it hits a solid lane guide it will be pretty dead or maybe hop to the other flipper. But it’s like having wildly bouncy rubber on the inlane above the flipper. In my game at least.

#10408 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Ok that’s crazy! That is exactly the solution I was envisioning when playing last night. I’ll get video tonight to explain what I mean, but basically those wire inlane guides (as opposed to a solid metal inlane guide) are Way More springy and make the ball hop like crazy. Like a ball coming from the right orbit and hitting the left flipper will hop over to the other flipper, but this is hitting the metal wire inlane guide above the flipper and bouncing wildly to the right sling (and often straight to a drain). Normally if it hits a solid lane guide it will be pretty dead or maybe hop to the other flipper. But it’s like having wildly bouncy rubber on the inlane above the flipper. In my game at least.

Are the wire guides too low?

They should be exactly the height of the center of a ball or just slightly higher.

I think it was 17/32" center to center, or around 9/16" for a 1 1/16" ball.

#10409 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Are the wire guides too low?
They should be exactly the height of the center of a ball or just slightly higher.
I think it was 17/32" center to center, or around 9/16" or 19/32"" for a 1 1/16" ball.

I always have mine slightly high to keep the ball from jumping over them.

#10410 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Ok that’s crazy! That is exactly the solution I was envisioning when playing last night. I’ll get video tonight to explain what I mean, but basically those wire inlane guides (as opposed to a solid metal inlane guide) are Way More springy and make the ball hop like crazy. Like a ball coming from the right orbit and hitting the left flipper will hop over to the other flipper, but this is hitting the metal wire inlane guide above the flipper and bouncing wildly to the right sling (and often straight to a drain). Normally if it hits a solid lane guide it will be pretty dead or maybe hop to the other flipper. But it’s like having wildly bouncy rubber on the inlane above the flipper. In my game at least.

And JJP changed the wire inlane guides to metal guides in later games DI etc.
May be Jim-Beam have some of these left over... I don't know

#10411 2 years ago
Quoted from DrDoom:

And JJP changed the wire inlane guides to metal guides in later games DI etc.
May be Jim-Beam have some of these left over... I don't know

No only to bouncy

#10412 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Are the wire guides too low?
They should be exactly the height of the center of a ball or just slightly higher.
I think it was 17/32" center to center, or around 9/16" for a 1 1/16" ball.

No the wire guides are only to bouncy

#10413 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Where did you buy from?

From JJP... $64.85 shipped for a Warg head on Jan 3rd 2021. I don't have the invoice so can't say how much of that was shipping...

#10414 2 years ago

Hello, new guy here! So I just scored a Smaug... its currently my favorite pin yet.. There seems to be a spot in the center return between the flippers and I was wondering if thats what it is/was and can I put one there?? like my WOZ I think it would make me happier! lol anyone know about this? thanks F14tomcat

#10415 2 years ago
Quoted from F14tomcat:

anyone know about this?

A post.

LTG : )

DSC00527 (resized).JPGDSC00527 (resized).JPG
#10416 2 years ago
Quoted from F14tomcat:

Hello, new guy here! So I just scored a Smaug... its currently my favorite pin yet.. There seems to be a spot in the center return between the flippers and I was wondering if thats what it is/was and can I put one there?? like my WOZ I think it would make me happier! lol anyone know about this? thanks F14tomcat

It came with a center post between the flippers. Some of the expert players like the challenge of taking it out. I don't haha.

2b958e20f26243ce2ab49cdb09af16881077027b (resized).jpeg2b958e20f26243ce2ab49cdb09af16881077027b (resized).jpeg
#10417 2 years ago

Not just expert players. It can be deceptive for below average players too. I like it better without.

#10418 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Not just expert players. It can be deceptive for below average players too. I like it better without.

Center posts rarely help my game play, almost like it isn't there. But, I'll take the bounce back when it happens for a save any day.

#10419 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Center posts rarely help my game play, almost like it isn't there. But, I'll take the bounce back when it happens for a save any day.

Yep. I always either forget they are there and hold the flipper up or forget to nudge, or remember they are there and trust them on a marginal slider.

I'll take the bounce back though.

#10420 2 years ago

Ok. Here’s what I’m taking about. I hope this iCloud link works here:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0XxmigRsIGWmfw42IYhPinNMw#Eagle

#10421 2 years ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

It came with a center post between the flippers. Some of the expert players like the challenge of taking it out. I don't haha.

Just don't complain about long ball times with that post in there!! (Not specifically directed at quotee.)

#10422 2 years ago

Ahhhh - so what stood out to me in what you said is the ball goes all the way from the right orbit return, past both flippers and onto your lane guide. I think it’s actually designed to hit the NEAR-side flipper, so your orbit exits may be way off - can you adjust those?

Quoted from paynemic:

Ok. Here’s what I’m taking about. I hope this iCloud link works here:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0XxmigRsIGWmfw42IYhPinNMw#Eagle

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#10423 2 years ago

Humm, lasserific topper unboxed. No instructions....also no remote.
Anyone install and guide me where to plug in?
I have a good hunch, just dont want to kill game.
I already have a splitter on for a back board and trough light. Can i just split again?

#10424 2 years ago
Quoted from F14tomcat:

... There seems to be a spot in the center return between the flippers and I was wondering if thats what it is/was and can I put one there?? like my WOZ I think it would make me happier! lol anyone know about this? thanks F14tomcat

A center (between the flippers) post is a standard feature on recent Joe Balcer designed games (WoZ, Hobbit, Houdini, Oktoberfest, and Hot Wheels).

I wouldn't want one on every game, but I enjoy the added gameplay element that it provides on the few I own with one!

#10425 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Humm, lasserific topper unboxed. No instructions....also no remote.
Anyone install and guide me where to plug in?
I have a good hunch, just dont want to kill game.
I already have a splitter on for a back board and trough light. Can i just split again?

Have a pic of the connector? If it’s our backboard and trough and it’s plugged into the topper plug, you can split it again.

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#10426 2 years ago

Is there any way to make the beasts pop up coils stronger? It seems sometime the absolute minimum power is being sent to them. I'll occasionally have a beast pop up, go back down then up again before it holds. Is there not somewhere I can add strength to those coils? I've contemplated just straight up changing them to green coils.

#10427 2 years ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

Is there any way to make the beasts pop up coils stronger? It seems sometime the absolute minimum power is being sent to them. I'll occasionally have a beast pop up, go back down then up again before it holds. Is there not somewhere I can add strength to those coils? I've contemplated just straight up changing them to green coils.

If beasts go up and down, its usually because the leaf switches are set to close.

Wobbling of the heavy heads causes false hits and they go right down.

#10428 2 years ago

Yes, switch not coils.

#10429 2 years ago

Agreed, your coils are fine. You have switches that need adjusted.

#10430 2 years ago

Okay, I think you three guys are lovely, but I'm not saying it is recognizing it being hit. I'm saying it is struggling to go up and stay up. The coil isnt strong enough to hold a few of the beasts. It goes up, comes down and goes back up before it holds steady. I also have other random weak instances that occur, this was just one that I thought would be easiest to describe. I know how to recognize a phantom switch hit.

I saw a video online where a guy replaces the spring from the because it forces the mech down and is a big cause of what keeps the mechs from being more responsive.... and putting on a weaker coil on the rod where the beast itself is. This supposedly helps with such an issue.

Here is the video for future reference if anyone else has my issue years from now.

#10431 2 years ago

So following that video, I removed the springs and it works effing awesome, now.

#10432 2 years ago

Thanks for sharing, I may change my springs too

#10433 2 years ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

So following that video, I removed the springs and it works effing awesome, now.

Did you replace them as the video suggests or just remove completely? I have a similar issue on my warg currently.

#10434 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

Did you replace them as the video suggests or just remove completely? I have a similar issue on my warg currently.

So I placed the order for the springs. They came today (pinball life rocks). I took the springs out and it works absolutely awesome before installing the new springs, per the video. I plan to install them, but it plays WAY better without any this far.

#10435 2 years ago

Thanks for all the responses on my post - post. Im putting one in! lol love the bounce back on the WOZ so - decision made!

#10436 2 years ago
Quoted from F14tomcat:

Thanks for all the responses on my post - post. Im putting one in! lol love the bounce back on the WOZ so - decision made!

The post may save one out of 20 balls. It doesn't seem to help me too much.... but 5% is better than 0, I guess.

#10437 2 years ago

Couple questions guys,

Just noticed my left pop looks like it might have a wire loose. The pop seems to work fine, but is this pink wire supposed to be soldered to that post?

And my flippers and Tilt Bob show the red "bad switch" icon, but they all seem to work perfectly. Is that normal?

Thanks

20210614_211254 (resized).jpg20210614_211254 (resized).jpg20210614_213039 (resized).jpg20210614_213039 (resized).jpg
#10438 2 years ago
Quoted from Metalzoic:

Couple questions guys,
Just noticed my left pop looks like it might have a wire loose. The pop seems to work fine, but is this pink wire supposed to be soldered to that post?
And my flippers and Tilt Bob show the red "bad switch" icon, but they all seem to work perfectly. Is that normal?
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

re-attach the wire.

#10439 2 years ago
Quoted from Metalzoic:

Couple questions guys,
Just noticed my left pop looks like it might have a wire loose. The pop seems to work fine, but is this pink wire supposed to be soldered to that post?
And my flippers and Tilt Bob show the red "bad switch" icon, but they all seem to work perfectly. Is that normal?
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

Are you asking if it's okay to not solder that back on? Because the answer in every universe and every dimension will be a resounding "no." It will take 2 minutes. Just solder it back on.

#10440 2 years ago
Quoted from Metalzoic:

And my flippers and Tilt Bob show the red "bad switch" icon, but they all seem to work perfectly. Is that normal?

The boxes that say "RED" are just telling you the wire color (like the other boxes that say "ORN" "YEL" "GRN" etc.) Push the flipper buttons while in that switch test screen, and it should show you they are active while you are holding them in. Same with the tilt bob - knock it against the ring while looking at that screen, and you should see it activate.

When a switch hasn't been hit in a while, the game will give you an error message saying the switch is bad or to check the switch. My tilt bob gave an error because I hadn't shaken the game hard enough lately to get a tilt warning
I just tapped the tilt bob against the ring a couple of times, and the error went away.
Other switches might give the same error if they are actually not working. Then all you do is find the switch (there's a map in the manual) and see if there's a broken wire or diode. If it looks OK, but doesn't respond in the switch test, the switch itself may be bad, and is not hard to replace.
I've noticed that if you activate a microswitch and it doesn't make a definite, tiny "click", it is bad or going bad. They should have a nice crisp little "click" when you activate the switch. I keep a bag of them around for replacements. Lots of games use the same ones.

Always take your time and ask lots of questions on Pinside, and you will be able to safely and successfully keep your Hobbit running the way it should.

#10441 2 years ago
Quoted from Metalzoic:

... Just noticed my left pop looks like it might have a wire loose. The pop seems to work fine, but is this pink wire supposed to be soldered to that post? ...

Yes. Without this connected to the pop bumper coil, the electrical circuit providing power to it will be broken (open), the coil will have no power, and the pop bumper can't be working correctly.

#10442 2 years ago

Thanks guys for the help, appreciate it. Ken from JJP emailed me back immediately too.

Quoted from Doctor6:

Are you asking if it's okay to not solder that back on? Because the answer in every universe and every dimension will be a resounding "no." It will take 2 minutes. Just solder it back on.

No. I was making sure it was even supposed to be attached there before
I soldered it. I wasn't sure because it seems to work perfectly and shows no errors in test mode.

#10443 2 years ago

Sad day yesterday. My Smaug mouth stopped working last night. Also not working in test menu. Anyone have a good tutorial on how to replace that servo motor? How difficult is it?

#10444 2 years ago
Quoted from Metalzoic:

I wasn't sure because it seems to work perfectly and shows no errors in test mode.

That kind of error won't show up in test mode. The game doesn't know what the coil is or isn't doing.

After you solder it back on. It will work perfectly. It can't work without that wire attached. After the repair the metal ring will pull down and knock your ball with great enthusiasm.

LTG : )

#10445 2 years ago
Quoted from GTO:

Sad day yesterday. My Smaug mouth stopped working last night. Also not working in test menu. Anyone have a good tutorial on how to replace that servo motor? How difficult is it?

Doesnt the manual have something on this?

I haven't checked...

#10446 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Doesnt the manual have something on this?
I haven't checked...

I'll take a look at the manual tonight.

In everyone's experience, any other possible causes I should check before assuming it is the motor?

#10447 2 years ago
Quoted from GTO:

In everyone's experience, any other possible causes I should check before assuming it is the motor?

Linkage.

LTG : )

#10448 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Linkage.
LTG : )

Yeah you might try nudging his mouth closed while you’re testing it to see if the linkage is too sticky. You can use my rubber band fix if that’s the only issue.

Search this forum for the keyword ‘servo’ and you’ll find some installation instructions that are better than the ones in the manual.

#10449 2 years ago

Are the parts needed to fix the smaug mouth/movement readily available from hobby shops or more of a specialty part. Thinking I may want to stock up if it's a jjp only thing for the future before its unobtainium.

#10450 2 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

Are the parts needed to fix the smaug mouth/movement readily available from hobby shops or more of a specialty part. Thinking I may want to stock up if it's a jjp only thing for the future before its unobtainium.

Its just a standard servo readily available.

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