Quoted from screaminr:

Thanks Bill , I just received my arkenstone start button .
It looks great , I can't wait to install it and see it light up .
[quoted image]

Quoted from Travahontas:It's a gorgeous addition to the game Did you already have Bill's "one ring" shooter rod?

Quoted from PinballHaven:

the three failing together seems strange.

Quoted from LTG:

Not if a common wire to them broke off at another switch.
LTG : )

Quoted from PinballHaven:

Getting the drop target bank errors pictured after applying some stickers to the target faces; none of the other banks failed and everything looks ‘normal’ as far as I can tell. Any suggestions? Thanks!
EDIT: I see the three green wires connecting into one wire, probably need to trace that back and see what might have blown if my stickering got something stuck closed and overloaded a circuit? Fuses? What might I be missing, the three failing together seems strange.
[quoted image]

Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Anyone had Smaug’s head move fine but mouth not moving?
I got The Hobbit two months ago and had no idea until now that the mouth was supposed to move!? The seller also didn’t tell me there was a loud crackle in the left speaker and a gash on the inside wall that wasn’t in the pics. I put mirror blades on and covered the gash and pulled the sound bar and found a wire that I resoldered and it’s magic now, just hoping this mouth issue is another ‘easy’ fix? At least now I know why I got a great deal on it!(; Thanks for any help

Quoted from Travahontas:

I would say nothing about Smaug's mouth is simple. Most people I get the impression have had luck replacing the servo, but that's probably on borrowed time, so I'd recommend making sure the mechanism isn't too sticky as well (I used a rubber band assist that's still trucking along)
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-hk15288a-analog-servo-bb-mg-9kg-0-20sec-51g.html
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/135#post-4891757
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/162#post-5440621
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/191#post-6030172
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/193#post-6076471

Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Anyone had Smaug’s head move fine but mouth not moving?
I got The Hobbit two months ago and had no idea until now that the mouth was supposed to move!? The seller also didn’t tell me there was a loud crackle in the left speaker and a gash on the inside wall that wasn’t in the pics. I put mirror blades on and covered the gash and pulled the sound bar and found a wire that I resoldered and it’s magic now, just hoping this mouth issue is another ‘easy’ fix? At least now I know why I got a great deal on it!(; Thanks for any help

Quoted from Travahontas:

Hey just a heads up y'all - I added an item to the Pinside shop if anyone wants me to make them a copy of the Smaug's Horde Arkenstone lamp/controller I added to my machine. It can dim the lamp or do pulsing patterns (which is how I like mine set). I really like how it enhance's Bill's creation, so I assume some of y'all will appreciate it as well...
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1305-trumpanche-mods/05011-lamp-with-controller-for-smaug-s-horde-arkenstone

I can also wire up just the lamp controller for you to enhance your Bag End mod or your Throne of Erebor mod, or really any playfield lighting mod (I added one to my trough lamp).
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1305-trumpanche-mods/04965-lamp-controller-for-hobbit-playfield-mods[quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

This is exactly what my hoard stone needed.
Just ordered, it is automatic? No settings required?

Quoted from PanzerFreak:

5 years later and The Hobbit is probably my favorite pin I own. The game is just loaded and has in my opinion the deepest objective based ruleset ever created for a pinball machine. The code work done by Keith Johnson, Joe Katz, and especially Ted Estes with the final few updates (he did a ton of work with those last few updates that took the game to the next level) makes this games code masterpiece level. I don't think we will ever see another pin have the amount and quality of objective based modes as The Hobbit. Also, the audio work by David Thiel is incredible as well.

Quoted from zaphX:

I agree! I wasn't sure about this game - it didn't grab me playing it in friends collections - but when I got it home and wrapped my head around it I really started appreciating it. It's a great game.

Quoted from PanzerFreak:

5 years later and The Hobbit is probably my favorite pin I own. The game is just loaded and has in my opinion the deepest objective based ruleset ever created for a pinball machine. The code work done by Keith Johnson, Joe Katz, and especially Ted Estes with the final few updates (he did a ton of work with those last few updates that took the game to the next level) makes this games code masterpiece level. I don't think we will ever see another pin have the amount and quality of objective based modes as The Hobbit. Also, the audio work by David Thiel is incredible as well.
Just ordered The Art of Pinball book and barrel mod for the game, I'm telling myself these are the last mods I'll buy for the game lol. Also, just had some family over the weekend for a pinball party. My cousins and I mainly played Hobbit, probably put 30+ games on it over the course of 6 hours haha. One of my cousins has a LOTR with over 6k plays (all his) and all he will play is Hobbit when he comes over lol.

Quoted from Travahontas:

Good luck with those being your last mods! Lior just teased the new beast mech sculpts on his Instagram this weekend
[quoted image]

Quoted from Travahontas:

Good luck with those being your last mods! Lior just teased the new beast mech sculpts on his Instagram this weekend
[quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Looks great but I worry about their durability.
Smacking them with high speed heavy steel balls would tear off his ears in short order.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Looks great but I worry about their durability.
Smacking them with high speed heavy steel balls would tear off his ears in short order.

Quoted from liorillusion:

If its brake you will get new one with no charge and not need to send the old one or to pay shipping. They made from special flex cast material. Also 5kg hammer will not damage them. More info soon
Thanks guys

Quoted from liorillusion:

If its brake you will get new one with no charge and not need to send the old one or to pay shipping. They made from special flex cast material. Also 5kg hammer will not damage them. More info soon
Thanks guys

Quoted from Goronic:

Hot damn, it will be another must have Hobbit mod

Quoted from docdeath:

I will attempt to post a video of the finished installation later this week. It is really dramatic/unbelievable. If there is a market for the larger stone, back lighted or not, maybe we can convince Bill Hanson to produce them.

Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Hey Hobbiteers, looking for some assistance.
Been having on and off issues with light boards in my game. Here's a gameplay example of what happens. The game will play normally for a while and then the lights will lock up and Smaug's mouth freezes. A reboot will bring everything back but after a bit of gameplay it will happen again:
So far I've done the following:
1. Sent BAG board in for repair from JJP, since that has been a common point of failure for issues like this. JJP determined it to not be repairable so I received a brand new one. Lights kept locking up.
2. Through troubleshooting (swapping boards around, testing new Ethernet cables, etc.), figured out that one of the three RGB LED Controller Boards went bad (Part # 15-0031-00).
3. Purchased a replacement and everything worked for a while, then eventually a second one went bad. Purchased a replacement and eventually the third went bad.
It seems like something in the game is killing these boards. Any tips on how to figure out what is doing it and how to remedy the issue?
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Hey Hobbiteers, looking for some assistance.
Been having on and off issues with light boards in my game. Here's a gameplay example of what happens. The game will play normally for a while and then the lights will lock up and Smaug's mouth freezes. A reboot will bring everything back but after a bit of gameplay it will happen again:
So far I've done the following:
1. Sent BAG board in for repair from JJP, since that has been a common point of failure for issues like this. JJP determined it to not be repairable so I received a brand new one. Lights kept locking up.
2. Through troubleshooting (swapping boards around, testing new Ethernet cables, etc.), figured out that one of the three RGB LED Controller Boards went bad (Part # 15-0031-00).
3. Purchased a replacement and everything worked for a while, then eventually a second one went bad. Purchased a replacement and eventually the third went bad.
It seems like something in the game is killing these boards. Any tips on how to figure out what is doing it and how to remedy the issue?
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from docdeath:

Photo 1 is Bill's Smaug's Hoard Arkenstone mounted on the back pillar sculpture with glue dot. The stone is 25mm diameter & light enough to attach/hold with a single glue dot. I think it's very dramatic. It can be purchased from superskillshot.com for $60. One drawback is it's too small for proper back lighting with a pulsating LED. It's also the same size as the Arkenstone in the pile of gold & might be too redundant for Trumpanche.
Notice the dragon eye installed @ the back left indicator light! Glass dragon eye is 14mm diameter, purchased from Amazon. Your options are 14mm & 20mm. Both sizes work but I decided on the smaller size.
Photo 2 is the unfinished installation of the larger (35mm) Arkenstone on the back pillar sculpture. It pulsates! It is back lit with a 12v blue 3 LED strip cut to 1, purchased from cometpinball.com. Go to cometpinall.com, click on All Products...Matrix...Lights & Wiring...12v Lighting Strip 3SMD. You can cut the 3 LED strip to one (instruction for cutting: click Light Strip, 6.3v). You also need to click on Matrix Extension Wires.
I used the matrix wire extensions to reach the 12v power source connector in the left front cabinet corner near the start button & connected/used Trumpanche's variable mode harness. I set it to pulsate. Of course that meant I left the Bill's Arkenstone Start Button flashing. The LED wires drape down in front of the sculpture and exit the playfield between the metal ramps on the left side. With remount the Thorin Action fig., the wires are not that big of a distraction.
Special Note: If you use a Hobbit cabinet power source, it's 12v. To avoid overheating/electrical fire, you must use a 12v LED, not 6.3v or less!!!
I will attempt to post a video of the finished installation later this week. It is really dramatic/unbelievable. If there is a market for the larger stone, back lighted or not, maybe we can convince Bill Hanson to produce them.
Thanks Bill Hanson for the Arkenstone & Trumpanche for the variable mode harness!![quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Hey Hobbiteers, looking for some assistance.
Been having on and off issues with light boards in my game. Here's a gameplay example of what happens. The game will play normally for a while and then the lights will lock up and Smaug's mouth freezes. A reboot will bring everything back but after a bit of gameplay it will happen again:
So far I've done the following:
1. Sent BAG board in for repair from JJP, since that has been a common point of failure for issues like this. JJP determined it to not be repairable so I received a brand new one. Lights kept locking up.
2. Through troubleshooting (swapping boards around, testing new Ethernet cables, etc.), figured out that one of the three RGB LED Controller Boards went bad (Part # 15-0031-00).
3. Purchased a replacement and everything worked for a while, then eventually a second one went bad. Purchased a replacement and eventually the third went bad.
It seems like something in the game is killing these boards. Any tips on how to figure out what is doing it and how to remedy the issue?
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from PinballHaven:

Getting the drop target bank errors pictured after applying some stickers to the target faces; none of the other banks failed and everything looks ‘normal’ as far as I can tell. Any suggestions? Thanks!
EDIT: I see the three green wires connecting into one wire, probably need to trace that back and see what might have blown if my stickering got something stuck closed and overloaded a circuit? Fuses? What might I be missing, the three failing together seems strange.
[quoted image]

Quoted from PinballHaven:

Finally found the root cause, the green wire broke off at the mystery target in case anyone ever has a similar issue.

Quoted from liorillusion:

If its brake you will get new one with no charge and not need to send the old one or to pay shipping. They made from special flex cast material. Also 5kg hammer will not damage them. More info soon
Thanks guys

Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Hey guys one pinsider was very nice to respond to me, but anyone else dealt with a crooked smaug jaw and how to fix it? Is there screws underneath the jaw that need adjusting? Mine is just off center and doesnt look right, looks like a crooked beak, and it bothers me! His jaw wasnt crooked in the movie.
Thanks

Quoted from Travahontas:

Have you disassembled him to see what the mechanism looks like? Maybe something bent or a grommet missing or something?

Quoted from 3pinballs:

Has anyone had an issue with the ball auto launching once it goes into the shooter lane?
It's intermittent and does happen once or twice during a complete game

Quoted from docdeath:

Photo 1 is Bill's Smaug's Hoard Arkenstone mounted on the back pillar sculpture with glue dot. The stone is 25mm diameter & light enough to attach/hold with a single glue dot. I think it's very dramatic. It can be purchased from superskillshot.com for $60. One drawback is it's too small for proper back lighting with a pulsating LED. It's also the same size as the Arkenstone in the pile of gold & might be too redundant for Trumpanche.
Notice the dragon eye installed @ the back left indicator light! Glass dragon eye is 14mm diameter, purchased from Amazon. Your options are 14mm & 20mm. Both sizes work but I decided on the smaller size.
Photo 2 is the unfinished installation of the larger (35mm) Arkenstone on the back pillar sculpture. It pulsates! It is back lit with a 12v blue 3 LED strip cut to 1, purchased from cometpinball.com. Go to cometpinall.com, click on All Products...Matrix...Lights & Wiring...12v Lighting Strip 3SMD. You can cut the 3 LED strip to one (instruction for cutting: click Light Strip, 6.3v). You also need to click on Matrix Extension Wires.
I used the matrix wire extensions to reach the 12v power source connector in the left front cabinet corner near the start button & connected/used Trumpanche's variable mode harness. I set it to pulsate. Of course that meant I left the Bill's Arkenstone Start Button flashing. The LED wires drape down in front of the sculpture and exit the playfield between the metal ramps on the left side. With remount the Thorin Action fig., the wires are not that big of a distraction.
Special Note: If you use a Hobbit cabinet power source, it's 12v. To avoid overheating/electrical fire, you must use a 12v LED, not 6.3v or less!!!
I will attempt to post a video of the finished installation later this week. It is really dramatic/unbelievable. If there is a market for the larger stone, back lighted or not, maybe we can convince Bill Hanson to produce them.
Thanks Bill Hanson for the Arkenstone & Trumpanche for the variable mode harness!![quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from docdeath:

ATTENTION: You CAN'T use the 12v 3SMD, cut to 1 LED, sold by Comet Pinball as described in #10177 post. You can't cut it!!! and have it work. After corresponding with Comet Pinball, they recommend their 6.3v 3SMD strip, cut to 1, and purchase their brightness adjuster in the matrix products to reduce the voltage.
Question for Pinsiders, Trumpanche included: I'm presently using the 12v power source with Trumpanche's mode harness set to the slow pulsate mode using the 6.3v LED strip. To me, that means that the 12v current is not always maximum. Is it still safe to use the 6.3v strip? Also, there is a brightness button on the harness. I could cut down the brightness. Wouldn't that of course cut down the voltage, the same purpose as installing Comet Pinball's brightness adjuster?

Quoted from docdeath:

If you back light the Arkenstone with JJP 12v power source, you'll need use the brightness adjuster, either from Comet Pinball or the brightness button on Trumpanche mode harness to reduce the voltage. I hooked up the 6.3v LED to the 12v power source/mode harness & set it to slow pulsate. I did not reduce the brightness/voltage. After 3 minutes, the LED started to smoke. I'm going to reduce the brightness on the harness & see what happens (not now, I'm too depressed & tired of lifting that heavy playfield). Additional Post To Follow, hopefully with a video.
Note: Why does JJP use a 12v power source for it's LED's? With my Stern games (LE Hulk & Tron Pro), I have the options for 5v or 10v sources with Molex connectors. The 12v power source in my LE Hobbit is giving me problems with the dragon eye/red indicator light mod.

Quoted from Harmonic-Homes:

Any ideas as to what has failed?

Quoted from Lermods:

I’m not quite sure what you are trying to do, but using a 5v led with a 12v power using a dimmer is not going to work and you are playing with fire doing it that way. An easy way to do it is get a 12v strip, cut it into a section of 3 and tape over two of the three leds with electrical tape. As comet told you, you can’t cut 12v strips into single leds. We use voltage regulators in our mods if we need to change voltage, but for what you want to do, seems just taping over the leds might work.

Quoted from docdeath:

If you back light the Arkenstone with JJP 12v power source, you'll need use the brightness adjuster, either from Comet Pinball or the brightness button on Trumpanche mode harness to reduce the voltage. I hooked up the 6.3v LED to the 12v power source/mode harness & set it to slow pulsate. I did not reduce the brightness/voltage. After 3 minutes, the LED started to smoke. I'm going to reduce the brightness on the harness & see what happens (not now, I'm too depressed & tired of lifting that heavy playfield). Additional Post To Follow, hopefully with a video.
Note: Why does JJP use a 12v power source for it's LED's? With my Stern games (LE Hulk & Tron Pro), I have the options for 5v or 10v sources with Molex connectors. The 12v power source in my LE Hobbit is giving me problems with the dragon eye/red indicator light mod.