Get this:

https://www.buydisplay.com/lcd-4-3-inch-tft-display-module-in-480x272-vga-video-av-driver-board

without the touch option

It's an addiction! I had collected 3 or 4 mods before I had even bought the game And I still want to do my coin door and get mirror blades and I can't wait for whatever Lior's coming out with for beast mechs and more

It really takes two people for the job. When tightening unit back together, I recommend using Lock Tight so with play, the mechanism doesn't loosen again.

Trumpanche: What do you mean by "demating"? From your video, it looks like you have also mounted the Smaug's horde Arkenstone on the back panel sculpture & back lit it. Where/how did you hide the wire leads? Also, which Arkenstone Start Button did you decide to install? The low profile?

Thanks for the info. Do I remove the mech by taking out the four screws holding it to the bottom of the playfield? I ask because I've had bad luck stripping out screws when replacing them in wood.

docdeath - Thanks for the questions!

Sorry - “demating” is a term we use at work... I just mean separating the two itty bitty LED electrical connectors.

I have the Throne of Erebor mod (where your Thorin figure sits) so I’m not planning to adds Smaug’s Horde Arkenstone up top as you did (it’d be a little too redundant imho). I’m not sure how I’d approach lighting that or hiding the wires - I’d hate to drill the sculpture or anything :-/

For my LE artwork, I decided on the low profile button and love it. If I had a Smaug edition tho, I would have gone with the big 2” button - it’s awesome!

Take the trap door off the top first. Try not to lose the two clips and two springs. ( I put a magnet nearby to catch them just in case ) Then below the playfield unhook the three connectors. Use a long magnetic quarter drive to remove the screws ( works great going back in ) then remove the whole thing.

Bamboo skewers and wood glue, if you are bound and determined to muck things up.

I don't have two people. I've been lucky maybe. Reassemble it. Leave the screws on the sides a little loose. Squeeze the ends in and sides together. Snug up screws and then tighten them when I can use both hands better. For some reason that method for me leaves it moving up and down good.

LTG : )

I also did it by myself, and i HATE working on pinball machines.

A tip I got from Butch Peel - when reinserting screws in wood, start by turning counter clockwise until it "pops" then go clockwise.

Are your screws really clockwise to tighten?

They are anti clockwise here.

Interesting.

Not to jump in, but mine are clockwise (right) to tighten and counter-clockwise (left) to loosen.

But your clocks turn backwards so the screws are normal

No not the clocks but the ceiling and floor fans turn the opposite way (not backwards, that's you guys).

My Smaug edition is showing up Wednesday, can’t wait to join the club and add my 5th JJP!

So I hate to modify games from how they are originally intended, but dies anyone notice that the flippers make cradling a ball super difficult? Is this my machine or all machines? I'd love it if it was just a wee easier to do so.

Let me explain better. I'm not saying I can't. I'm saying it is harder than most other games. The throw isn't as long. Like some games I can flutter the flipper and get it to control the ball and keep it on a flipper.... but this machine it seems it will be luck or happenstance as to which flipper I can cradle it onto. It is also almost impossible to post pass because of it. I wish they had a better/longer distance to travel to cradle it better.

Doctor6 Are your flippers lined up with the little dots/holes on the playfield or are they maybe sitting lower? If they sit too low, cradling is way harder. I was watching Karl from IE stream one time and his were so high he could stop the ball into a cradle as it was coming out of the inlane!

Check or replace the coil stops, they might be too long.

Use the modern williams coil stops.

A post worth repeating: Lubricate your Hobbit & all pinball machine spinners with Super Lube 51010 Multi-Purpose Synthetic Oil. You can purchase it on Amazon for about $3. "A little micro dab will do it & it will spin foreverrrrr!" I was initially concerned that the lubricated spinner would collect dust and get gummed up, interfering with spinning. I lubricated mine 3yrs ago and they still spin foreverrrrr! You will be surprised at the result.

SUPER LUBE 001 (resized).JPG

Yep!

2 or 3 hits to the Lonely Mountain.

Its like taking the freeway or a helicopter instead of walking lol.

I'm curious - why would some have longer coil stops? Original JJP? Wrong rebuild kit? Coil stop gnomes?

Orcs.

Evil bastards.

Got the gate yesterday mate thanks.

There was an issue at one point of a manufacturer putting in the wrong coils stops, I cant remember who.

Plus there are 3 lengths that look exactly the same and fit perfectly.

The wrong ones might have been put in, in the past.

Use the modern williams ones, or JJP ones from marco. You should be good.

Vid might have the specs on the flipper rebuilding thread.

https://www.thisweekinpinball.com/vids-guide-rebuilding-flippers/

Also if you want more throw, you can always get a slightly shorter stop.

Awesome - thank YOU punkin !

Yeah, I saw that too. Was flabbergasted by it. Cursed, to be honest, when I saw that. My flippers are lined up well enough... might have to check out the coil stops thing.

Hoping to get some practical advice from the group. Our yellow standup target (Bombur) behind the "F" drop target isn't registering hits (nor finger pokes in switch test). Any advice for a fix? It's really tough to get at those targets under the PF because the mech for the drop targets covers them. Thanks!

I had the same fault.

Remove the drop target bank (4 screws) then you will be able to see the leaf switches, probably one needs to be soldered.

Yes! Its super easy to lower the whole drop target assembly being held by only 4 screws.

Mine actually fell off after about 150 plays, the holes were stripped from the factory.

Its nothing that a small piece of toothpick and a drop of titebond wont fix.

Years later its rock solid.

Does anyone know if the kickback plunger is a standard Bally/Williams part like Marco sells or is it JJP specific?

Thank you, sir! Super helpful as always!

Trumpanche: Forgive my stupidity but how do you exchange the Smaug's hoard Arkenstone with the yellow light cap in the pile of gold? I thought all one had to do was unscrew the single nut, lift front gold panel, pop out yellow cap & insert the Arkenstone. This is not working for me. I hope you don't need to lift the playfield and work underneath.

For the past few weeks, I only focus on the modes, and completing them.

I have had this game for years and am rediscovering all that I have missed!

Its not about the score, or the multiballs, it all about the modes.

Individually, they are incredible!

Playing them and not completing them is one thing. Completeing them, wit the amazing videos that accompany them Is just "next level" amazing.

The bag end gate mod has opened up the game to a new level.

My hope is that a more permanent solution presents itself. This should have been included in the game and coded.

Trumpanche: I emailed Bill Hansen & he sent me detailed instructions with photos to install the Smaug's Hoard Arkenstone in the pile of gold. You no longer have to help me with this task! Thanks!!!

Post some pictures after the install - I am thinking about this mod too

I kind of wish Lior would redo that gold pile in front of Smaug to have a cool looking pile of treasures mixed in with the coins and a nice sculpted Arkenstone that is integrated with the gold pile more than just a flasher. That said this mod does do what I think the machines should have - and that is a Arkenstone in that gold in front of Smaug

Goronic - good idea! Here's a video with the Arkenstone replacing the gold flasher. I also lit it from the underside even when it's not flashing, but otherwise what you see is what you get

I'm always excited to start Riddles in the Dark There are still so many modes I've never completed... it's kind of embarrassing! I find the cheat sheet PinballHaven put together and posted in the Rules thread really helpful for working through the modes too!

HobbitModesInfo.pdf

I think the sillly square light in the backboard could use some work, as a mod.

The Eye of Suaron, Much like the Palantir mod on LOTR would be really good.

Anyone know if you can restore high scores and setting from a different machine? Or are they coded to a game? I have an April fools prank in the works.

Yes. Save settings on one game. Factory rest on other game. ( you might want to back their settings up so to that later they don't kill you ) Restore settings on other game.

LTG : )

paynemic - EVIL! Better try it in reverse first so they don’t murder you if it fails! lmao

Custom message works well too. I sent all my op mates machines back after renting them with 'Punkin's Munster', 'Punkin's Maiden' etc.

You don't see it often unless you are looking for it.

Well good news, I ordered the new monitor and the monitor is now working!

THE TWIST - the new monitor hasn't arrived yet and isn't installed...the old one just started working again today lol.

Pinball!!

9 (resized).png

pinballinreno - I rarely notice that lamp and have no idea what they were trying to achieve with it... It’s just a red dot. It doesn’t light anything; it doesn’t seem to represent anything from the movies; it’s visually obscured (depending on your height)...

I’m thinking if we put a mod back there, it’s so far back and obscured by Smaug that no one would even notice??

5E760E65-E4CF-460D-88F1-F1A155B65BF6 (resized).jpeg

As I said, its really odd.

Something creative might be able to be done with it.

For now its just a "power on" indicator lamp.

I guess it was just intended to give the back right a light red/fiery kind of look. But the light is far to weak to do that really - so I guess it is a 'on light' :/

Lol, yeah, its just a power on indicator...? Im curious what was going on in the art directors mind.

But, Im optimistic that someone can come up with something better.

Just a quick question. On the start of the Spider bash mode, the Spider pops up but doesn't pop down in time for the kickout so the mode starts and the ball hits the spider as it's half way down. Does anyone else have this issue or is there an adjustment in the settings for that?
I've played around with the kickout timer setting but doesn't seem to do much.
I am running the latest Beta so not sure if that may be the issue or not.

Hmmm. Never seen that. Is the spider mech binding? Mine drops and the kick back fires almost immediately after. It is always super close but never makes contact. Kinda cool, actually.