The Hobbit
Jersey Jack, 2016You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider goronic.
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Quoted from BrianBannon:My only disappointment with the game is the current progress of the code. I just wish it was closer to completion, or at least at 1.0 level.
My understanding is that Jack is still getting final approval on the voice callouts. I'll bet it will be one hell of a patch to 1.0 when Keith gets the green light.
According to Jack the call out voices were too close and that he had to change them. Then the licensor said the were too different so jack had to move it closer to the voice of the actor. So they are working on it. I think Gandalf is ok , I think the main issue is Smaug Bilbo and gollum
Quoted from Jvspin:Doubt anyone has ever said, "I'm so glad I got the first ones off the line".
The positive trade-offs are getting it sooner and getting to experience the game as the code develops.
Agreed. I wanted mine to be several months into the build so that they can correct issues as they go. Same thing happened with WOZ. Just the way it works.
Quoted from JoeJet:Seriously. More like 2.4 years for most of us. Fingers crossed I get the call in a few weeks.
Me too. When did you order?
Quoted from Skyemont:Check to see if u have 4 meg of ram or 8 meg in regards to your reset issue.
I think you mean 4 Gig vs 8 Gig.
Do all Hobbits come with 8 GB of system memory? By having him check are you thinking that a 4 GB stick has came loose?
Quoted from VolunteerPin:I already have extra balls and not really sure if JJP pinballs need to be switched out like Sterns are but at least I'm covered on that front if needed.
I want to order an extra set on pinballs as well. Which are the preferred for WoZ and TH?
Quoted from metahugh:Did you know Millwax isn't wax? You unfortunately just put silicone all over your playfield.
http://www.amazon.com/Mill-Wax-Pinball-Machine-Playfield/dp/B004QYKDS0/ref=sr_1_1
So you are saying that we should just clean with novus and use a real wax? (if so what wax would you recommend)?
Quoted from PinballBulbs:I got them added to our site this morning - http://pinballbulbs.com/products/hobbit-pinball-true-color-protectors
Thanks for the link - I ordered as well.
Quoted from markmon:I've been loving hobbit so far. One thing I wish it was easier to tell when the lockdown bar button lit for what purpose. Postponing something is much different than cashing in a score and the back glass isn't always so easy to look at in frenzy of play. I think it'd be great if the lockdown bar button was a different color for cashing in points vs postponing a mode/lock.
Got some TrueColor protectors added today
Can you tell me where you got the flipper rubbers? Also, are there any other mods you have installed?
Quoted from kpg:I still can't believe I almost skipped over it completely after reading all the negative BS on Pinside- I realize all the time the people here favor old school Bally/Williams machines (just look at the Pinside rankings!) and Stern's, and for some reason there's a JJP hater bandwagon who loves to trash anything they do.
Same here, I was about to cancel too based on some early feedback - finally went to go play it and was a bit pissed off that I almost cancelled without playing it. If you have played it and isn't for you no worries, but if you are considering it please play it for yourself first and make up your own mind. I think it is fantastic!
EDIT: I am also a big fan of Sterns fast games too like TRON, IM, MET, and ST - TH is right up there in fun!
EDIT#2: Not pissed off at people that don't like it - pissed that I almost didn't get my own opinion first hand before cancelling.
Quoted from scasey:Mine has velcro holding it on.
If mine comes off that is what I would do...velcro tape can hold it well and can be removed if needed.
Quoted from pinballer0415:Anyone want to explain the mode qualifiers? I know the ELF, MAN, DWARF, Gandalf, Radagast, and Bilbo qualify most of them. However, I don't believe that's all of them. I do remember Keith mentioning something with combining some of these in order to light some. Do they carry over from ball to ball?
My understanding is that they don't carry over, and I don't think order matters on the qualifiers - but I am not sure about that.
Quoted from konghusker:I keep having to bend the left ramp tin back down. Anybody else have this problem?
Do you have the p f protector ?
Quoted from konghusker:No pf protection on mine. I'll loosen them up some and see if that helps. Thanks guys
Oh, and TH was the hit of my 4th party hands down followed closely by woz. People loved it.
The Stern machines are great - and I like them a lot, but JJP pins are very unique and very approachable to people that are new to pinball with their modern look. WOZ and Hobbit are certainly gorgeous and fascinating pins!
Quoted from VolunteerPin:My Hobbit isn't supposed to be in for a couple more weeks. Anyone know when JJP will be shipping Hobbits with the pop-ups already fixed?
Have no idea - Jen used to send out monthly updates of what was going on at JJP. I haven't seen one in a while. Perhaps she will soon with where they are right now in the preorder progress and more information about the troll fixes. She also can do a cool update about the code progress (which is great). And perhaps an update on the Hobbit Manual? Is that out yet?
Quoted from dtowndobe:Got 1.6M last night! Knocked my daughter completely off the high score list - she's not happy about that...
I got a pool table earlier this year, and my daughter hadn't played before - but now she wins most of the time.
Oh, and the posters on the wall are telling the names of my first pins 
Quoted from pinballinreno:With the recent code updates I would think that many of us would give this game a better rating in the top 100?
Into the fire simply ROCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am sure the code is just getting 'warmed up' 
Quoted from konghusker:So lifted the playfield today and found 2 wood metal screws, 1 wood screw, and a larger bolt/screw in bottom. Found knocker missing the wood screw, but can't find others. Frustrating.
I plan on looking under the PF every day for a few days to inspect wear and check for and tightening loosing screws. I know others would hate the idea, but I don't mind keeping a super close eye out on those things.
Further, I don't plan on have an box opening party - it will be the day after. Opening day will be me spending hours reviewing the PF (top and bottom) and running tests. Guests will not be happy with the long delay.
Quoted from RTS:Only the LE's have "of 1500."
SE's (Smaug editions) don't have a known set number produced.
Yeah... I think JJP actually printed the wrong deed for your pin. I'll be you can request a new one be sent.
Quoted from Vyzer2:After 4 months finally just beat Smaug Like dtr in lotr for the first time, I thought the game just shut down and would have to start all over. What a great "ending" for beating Smaug. Game is something else. Played into the fire twice..ended up with 1,922,723. My best game so far. After a game like that, my wrists hurt, my fingers hurt...what a workout. This was on 1.21.
So how do you kill Smaug - is it in his multiball?
Quoted from FalconPunch:Smaug MB....
I did it yesterday for the first time but only knew after watching lots of footage online.
Do you have a link to a vid?
Quoted from EricPinball:I can not seem to accept my USB key by the pinball, but formatted correctly receive each time the same error message.
someone would have a solution
thank you
That is for full patching, this is a delta. Just extract zip to an empty USB drive and go into settings and do a USB update. The pin will reboot after and you may then remove the USB
Quoted from bemmett:Open it and find out.
Quoted from EricHadley:I went to HQ Beercade in Chicago tonight to play The Hobbit. Sadly there were a few issues :-/ The Goblin wasn't popping up :-/ The 'C' in L-O-C-K would register a roll-over only about 1 out of 10 times :-/ The ball kept getting hung up on the left ramp at the exit. Hopefully they will get the update kit from JJP and clean up these issues. Seems like it could be a fun game, just hard to play with so many issues.
Home use isn't hard to make tweaks here and there , on location it could be a bit tough to maintain though to be honest
Quoted from crwjumper:The Sméagol has landed! LE #1253. Man this bugger is heavy!
Good stuff man, the game is fantastic!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Cool gold coin flipper covers from Matt it looks like...
I am not a fan of the coin flippers - but I would love Matt to make some more mods for the Hobbit. I really am glad I got the pin.
I told myself I would only get 1 pin and that is all - all I have room for. But, well, I am going to get WOZ next (soon). JJP pins are just over the top awesome in my book. Just 1 more pin and that is all 
Quoted from iepinball:Put this on the JJP forums but thought I'd post here too to gather more data. Wanted to ask if anyone else has a ton of left ramp rejects. So many of my shots rattle around the junction at the top then come back down either side of the ramp, quite frustrating. Flippers are at the factory-set value and are just about the right power, if not just a hair under what I'd like. Thinking that increasing power will only increase the rejections too since the clean, hard shots are the ones that reject most often.
One example, slow-motion video: https://goo.gl/photos/8MzHMcSchLYmcvRBA
I have tried multiple settings to get it dialed in. I am 1 up from default of left and 2 up on right. I find if you hit it clean it rockets up and around the ramp, but miss it and it will rattle and come back down, if you increase the strength it will rattle and go flying all over the place. Your shot needs be solid and accurate, especially when backhand flipping the ramps.
Quoted from meSz:No, 1500 LEs are being produced with them numbered 1-1500
SEs were only produced up till December, I believe it was, 2014. So anyone, including distributors, could order as many SEs as they wanted until the deadline. Once the deadline past "no more SEs will be produced"! Since the SEs were a special edition and they weren't limited to a specific number the buyer(s) could pick any number that they wanted. You could select #103 or you could select #9999.
I think the number for the SE has to be below 1500 and not already taken by another SE. At least I think that is what Jen told me when I was determining my number. Seems like I recall asking if I could do my anniversary year 1997 and she said no.
I ended up with SE 835 - and there CAN be an LE 835 (I think)
Quoted from freddy:so the question remains how many SE are made?
Quoted from meSz:If it's "undisclosed" how would you know it's "less than 1500"?
Good point, my understanding is that if you had an LE on order you could 'convert/upgrade?' it to an SE version at no charge But had to do so before the end of 2014. And there are 1500 LEs possible. That is where my math was, but I suppose JJP 'could have' sold more than 1500 at 9000 a piece before the end of 2014 but I doubt it.
My wild ass guess is there are 648 SE pins. However, you could buy the trim, decals and gold smaug and have a replica (but the attract mode would be missing - there by exposing the fake). JJP may require you to have an SE before selling you the gold trim or decals, but I doubt it.
If you like the LE more than the SE cool - but I'll bet there will be less SEs than LEs.
Quoted from Pimp77:Neither are rare and will be readily available for quite some time. I would highly doubt there were more than 1000 SEs ordered by that "cutoff date", but the secrecy around the actual number really allows JJP to make 5000 SEs if they want to. Makes no difference either way. Neither are rare. Did I say that neither are rare? Just to be safe: neither are rare.
My guess was based on a 'cutoff date' actually being a cutoff date
If there really isn't one, then yeah...1500+ is possible for sure. They could also do a Gandalf SE or whatever later...
Quoted from tron1969:Cliffy is now selling the hobbit protector set, I just ordered mine.
How do I order? And will they work with a PF protector on?
Should hobbit owners also get the rollover protectors like the ones used in WOZ?
http://www.passionforpinball.com/WOZ/LionPro1.jpg
Quoted from FalconPunch:Software question. What's the deal with the mode 'the bait'
It asks you to hit the right ramp or right orbit. But it keep the 2 x beasts up so you can't hit make the shot. If you hit the beats it makes a sound but nothing happens. I think I hit the beasts 3 times each. At some point when there is 5 seconds left 1 of them went down but don't know what triggers it.
Glad you asked....I try to skip that mode if I can. I don't know how to complete it.
Quoted from FalconPunch:Does anyone know what the ring button does during Arkenstone modes?
Not sure....but I would like it to be something like throw pine cone and it would register a hit on the warg
Still very happy after 2 months of ownership. The game is a good home use pin with all the modes it has - I still have to look at the book to get instruction to know what to do - some I now know (and that helps).
One thing I recommend is getting some extra drop target springs. I had 1 break and ordered 12 more to have a few extra. I have replaced 3 in total - easy to do if you have them on hand. Go ahead and order a dozen to have a few on stand by.
Quoted from FalconPunch:1.35p firmware to be shown at open house tomorrow
Hope Keith uploads this soon!
Love me some JJP updates - they really up the game every time they release code.
Quoted from oyvindmo:On our game, the plunger aimed way too high, so it would not hit the ball squarely and also regularly bump into the top of the auto plunger. Caused weakness and severe inconsistency.
Mine was doing this as well. All I did was add a small amount of rolled up masking tape where the play field 'hooks' seat into the lock down bar. This allowed about 1/8 inch or so of lift. This allowed me to have a smooth plunge that actually makes it easily hit the F drop target all the time.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Other that adding a spacer under the PF hooks, you can also raise the locking mechanism by loosening its attachment screws and moving it up slightly or reworking its holes to allow for more adjustment.
This would make for a more durable, stable adjustment. Especially for those games where the shooter rod had to be shimmed.
I look into to doing that long term...my fix was a simple, quick, no hardware adjustments fix. But your idea will be what I need to do long term to correct.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Im also thinking that the lock-down bar would benefit from some self adhesive felt in the corners that touch the side-rails, to keep from wearing them out or causing cracking/gouging of the powder coat
I agree, in fact I will probably put some there. I lean into the machine hard in that area actually.
Quoted from Rarehero:Ah, gotcha...yeah I've seen the Arrow insert lit in Purple and kickback was also lit (possibly blinking blue/white if I'm remembering it right)...but I don't get the kickback.
I have seen the same thing happen as well. Perhaps it is a bug and the kickback should not be lit when that occurs
Quoted from docdeath:Why not use transparent rubber rings throughout the PF. I replaced all black/white rubber rings on my Avengers LE Hulk and Tron Pro over a year ago and have no problems. Purchase from Terry at Pinballlife.
Which is best: black/white/transparent rubber rings?
I switched out all the white rubbers to transparent. Looks and shoots great!
Quoted from koops:Got any pics of transparent ones used on the main slings? I'm wondering how much of the light they pick up.
I'll take some pics tonight and post them. I have the right side done completely, and the cliffy. I have to do the left side rubbers in the top left and that cliffy to finish. (ran out of time last weekend)
Quoted from Pinballomatic:The left side button has no upper flipper, unlike the right, hence the harness has an extra pair of wires on the left side.
Probably correct - I think the early prototypes had a fourth flipper on the top left. I was first disappointed they made it a sling - but now I like the sling they have now. It adds some randomization - and we don't need anymore targets on this PF anyway.
Quoted from Ransom99:Your words speak of wisdom I've yet to even have a taste of. I won't rag on the JJP folks for having me lift the PF so much, it's a learning experience I guess...?
Mind if I ask where the mirror black blades came from? In my head they look sick as F@#&! The ones you had in the picture sure 'nuff were from tilt folks. I like them better than the gauged stock black stuff I have now but the faces on those decals don't do it for me.
Agree, those aren't from or about the hobbit or LOTR. Looks more like Warcraft or something generic. I may get mirrored blades if no one does true hobbit blades.
Quoted from Phbooms:i do wish somebody made side blades that actually look good and fit the theme and decals that look right for the stand up bare targets
The game does sometimes say shoot yellow targets, so if you did put decals on them I would recommend it make heavy use of yellow. But it could have cool design overlay graphics or what I would like is the dwarven letter equivalent for the letter for the dwarf drops, elf equivalent for the elf drops and man drops to be cursive. That way it would still 'spell' dwarf, elf, and man when dropped
But to make it simple they all could be the same decal with a cool graphic or pattern on them
Quoted from stpcore:Well before I could attempt to check for that servo connector Smaug started smoking in test mode (body rotation test). Called JJP support and was offered a discounted exchange for a new replacement Smaug (I am the second owner so 1 year warranty no longer applies to me). I appreciate that they were willing to work with me and not charge me full price. I do have to send my malfunctioning Smaug in once I receive the replacement.
My Smaug stopped 'talking' as well, but it did rotate properly. I found that it was an issue with the motor inside that moved the mouth up and down. I ended up having to replace it as well. Now that I have a new one I am thinking maybe I should keep the min and max closer together (not 20 apart, but more like 15 or so). I wonder if it can be turned off completely in a future update, or if setting the min and max to 100 would work? Also, JJP may need to provide just the motor to replace if it goes bad - a whole Smuag replacement is too expensive.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yes that magnet only is used for the mode that drops the ball into the pops from the orbit shot.
Wow - good to know. That is a good mode and from now on I will use the orbits a bit to get into the barrels. I'll bet you can do more hits if you drop it from the top slowly than shooting directly into them from a flipper.
I have the PF protector, and it is getting a bit cloudy. I am considering removing it to reveal the super shinny PF below, but I really like an easy no hassle PF and have a chip and dimple free PF.
Should I:
1. Try to clean it somehow? If so - how?
2. Remove it and just start getting use to proper PF care?
3. Replace it with another protector?
Quoted from Pimp77:The barrel figures look stock and pretty good! The others, well...not so much.
Yeah....might be a bit of figures overload to my taste. You don't want too much toy box vibe going on.
Quoted from stpcore:1.90 didn't power the topper on my Smaug but after updating to 1.94 everything was OK.
I installed your lighting mods (trough and ramps) and they look incredible by the way. The ramp lighting is just stunning.
I'm on the fence regarding the ring button plate being sold right now. I wish it was in gold!
Can you post a picture? I have the ring button plate on my SE and I like it-I can send a picture of that.
Quoted from stpcore:Here is a pic of the LED ramp light that mount in the back under the glass channel. I bought the RGB version from Lermods which gives me the option of setting to an individual color (in this case I set to gold although I can change it to any color instantly). I can also set the LEDs to cycle and fade between all the different colors. I think the gold color fits the theme well and really illuminates the artwork that's hidden in the back. It also plays nicely with the gold around Smaug.
Lermods has great customer service, quality mods, and speedy shipping. I would not hesitate to purchase from them again.
That does look nice in the gold light. Is there a way to change the brightness as well if you wanted to dial it back a notch?
Quoted from swampy:Ok so continuing to adjust and dial in my new Smaug Edition. Popped up the play field the other day and this little fella dropped onto the metal box.......Any thoughts on it's original location?? Cheers.
Yeap...those are one of the clips that hold the springs that hold the 'top' of the beasts. (Two for each mech).
If that is off you will also have a spring off as well. It is about 1 inch.
Quoted from swampy:Thanks for that, will check the springs are there too. Cheers.
If you don't find the spring in the bottom of the cabinet it may be still in the beast mech and not fallen all the way out.
Quoted from Lermods:Mine fires to the upper right flipper and through the spinner.
Mine goes in the right VUK 99% of the time. How do I turn it down a notch to have it hit the right spinner - or land right on the middle of the top flipper?
Quoted from Sammy31:Finally beat Smaug first time last night. Wow. What a show!
I hope the other modes are just as good to finish.
BTW... where is the new code!
I hope Keith keeps on developing the Hobbit code - he is doing great so far and he can take it even further. Alot of what is in the hobbit now with the modes and arkenstone modes make great use of video, sound, and lights. Really cool...
Quoted from pinballinreno:In test the coils just fire shortly, its a test.
The ramp diverter is used in the moon runes mode. I comes down very quick and at the right time to force it down the other ramp. If yours goes down and up quickly then it will work properly. It isn't used much yet, but I bet Keith will add more later.
By they way - I dropped the pitch from 7.5 to 6.5 and man I can do much better now and get farther in the game. So, for you guys that can play TH for an hour set that pitch up and it will make the game harder/faster for sure.
Quoted from freddy:for the price of the game new in box it should have came with it! simple as that! shouldn't have to pay $100 bucks for one.
Why should we expect a high quality print out of the manual to be free after providing a cd and having it built into to pinball software? The cost of the game is for the game.
Quoted from KLR2014:Joined the club yesterday with a NIB LE # 766. Installed full cliffys and mirrorblades. Family is loving it!
Awesome! Where did you get your mirror blades?
Quoted from lschmidlin:Hi guys – still learning my newly-arrived LE and loving it, but two quick questions.
1) is there any way to delay the shoot out from Windlance when starting a mode? I looked in the settings and do not see it. Being new to the game I would love to delay the ball there as I read the mode rules on the display. To fire it myself using the Ring Button would be awesome.
2) is there really not a status update for your game when holding the flipper? Yes, the display shows a lot of where you are in the game – but there's nothing like a good status report. JJP hit it out of the park on WOZ – showing your game status on a rules map. Was really surprised to not see the same (awesome) feature on TH. What do you guys think?
Good idea on #1. As for #2 - I would 'guess' that is probably coming in a future patch.
Speaking of patch. I wish Keith and the team would give us a new build soon. I sure would like to see what they have been cooking.
Guys I have two quick questions.
1. Should I place mylar over the metal strip in the shooting lane? Every shot has the ball hit that corner. And how about the Gollum ball save lane?
2. What is the 'hole' for next to the MAN targets at the tip of the flipper. Just noticed the other day cleaning the PF?
Mylar or not (resized).JPG
What is the hole for (resized).JPG
Quoted from LTG:Too far away, and wrong place.
Hole was for something changed leading up to production and not used.
LTG : )
Thought that could be the case - just wasn't sure. Thanks!
Quoted from konghusker:I did mine a while back when it broke. It wasn't horrible, but just be patient.
I switched out all mine from white to transparent when they started to wear. The left side will require you to break it down quite a bit. When you get that far you might as well order the cliffy protector kit and add that while you are at it. Expect it to take about an hour.
The right side is easier to refresh the rubbers - but you will (of course) remove several of the plastics on that side too.
Quoted from lschmidlin:Anyway here's a picture of where the ball gets stuck. Happens all the time.
I have never had one stuck there before. I did once on top of a pop barrel - but the new right ramp will likely prevent that. I am with another poster - I would go to lowes and get a clear rubber that you can put under speakers and the like to prevent it from scratching the floor or bookshelf. That would likely clear that up for you and can be removed easily anytime.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Too many air-balls and the balls can go anywhere.
True, you can get them from drop targets popping up or the beasts popping up in multi ball for sure
Quoted from lschmidlin:Thanks to everyone for the suggestions on the ball getting stuck. Solid suggestions. I will tone down the game a bit because it is likely coming from air balls.
Also like the idea of a removable adhesive and will experiment with that.
But I also have to say the idea of leaving the ball there and just putting another one in the game is genius! A little bit of pinball art inside the game! And trust me, that ball is going nowhere when it sitting there.
Weird it's not a common problem though – it looks like such a trap for the ball. I thought my post would be filled with a bunch of 'me too'. So the good news is that it's not a common problem and if I tone down the game a bit it'll likely take care of it. Removable adhesive will be next.
Thanks again guys!
The good news is that IF the ball comes loose you'll get another multi-ball. Which are kind of hard to get in the hobbit anyway 
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its probably bent.
The black metal weldment that holds the up and down slider is of fairly soft steel.
Pull out he PF onto its maintenance rails and push up the warg mech manually.
It should have zero resistance and drop like a rock.
If it binds at all, raise the mech (push it up from the bottom) and push it towards the back of the PF a bit (bend it a little).
Be careful the metal lid is super sharp like a razor, tape the edges with masking tape if necessary.
Most of the mechs that bind seem to benefit from being bent back a little.
Do this either towards the back or towards the front in small increments until there is no binding at all.
Again properly adjusted the mech should drop like a rock.
I have had to adjust my leaf switches from time to time, and lightly bend them forward when they get a little slower to drop. But, when tuned they drop like a rock - and register hits very well.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Well, he didnt say which monday....
He didn't say for sure it would be today, just that he is considering it. I take it that it will be soon for sure.
Quoted from Vyzer2:I don't think a 4 player game with neighbors is going to take very long. Throw in some average players in a 4 player game, could be quite long.
From what I have seen:
1. New players have an average ball time of < 2 minutes
2. Average players have an average ball time of < 6 minutes
3. Skilled players have an average ball time of (no idea)
Quoted from Bendit:Yeah. SDTM right after hitting the side of the spider beast (ball coming from top of PF at an angle).
It's like you guys' 3 hour games defy Murphy's Law.
Not so sure the glass was on with all those modes completed....
Quoted from Pinball-Escobar:Im tired of people being nice...accusing someone of playing with backglass off?? Have you ever thought maybe you just suck at pinball? Colonel Mustard called, he said get a clue
Settle down partner, I was just kidding man. And yes, I do suck at pinball (so, you know...I've got that going for me)
EDIT: Wait, wait a minute. Did I just get called a loser from a troll account LOL. I feel special.
Quoted from Sammy31:Not sure if this was in the previous code, I can't remember... but once you lock 2 balls for Smaug multiball, Smaug awakens and follows your ball around the playfield. Much better this way...
It's been in there for a few patches - not a bad effect. Also, I think it would be good to have smaug say clips from the movie while he is doing that. (especially after the 1:40 mark)
good stuff here too....
(though he used some already - needs more )
Quoted from PanzerFreak:The Bilbo and Smaug scene is one of the best in the entire trilogy. I'm surprised a mode featuring this scene is not in the game. The scene has a lot of dialogue from Smaug that could be used with the Smaug toy. Maybe it could be incorporated into a final wizard mode?
Maybe a mystery mode? Basically he talks to you and then you have to make a shot, then he talks some more, then you have to hit a shot...something like that...?
Or instead of a mystery mode - it will 'unlock' the Smaug dialog mode when you complete all the Bilbo modes. NO telling how far down he could go with the amazing mode based game JJP (and Keith) has got!
I am still trying to get the mode bonuses based on completed modes. Awesome stuff!
Quoted from PanzerFreak:That sounds like a cool idea. It would be nice to have that scene represented somewhere in the game as its pretty much the main Smaug scene in the trilogy. Seeing the Smaug toy move to the lines from the scene would be awesome.
Yeah no doubt - Keith has a lot to work with and he can continue to make this pin even better. Already one of the best ever in my opinion.
Quoted from konghusker:Question, while playing a big game, the right spinner stopped registering. I've had issues before with it not registering. After the game was over, I started another game and it worked perfectly. Is this a code thing, or physical problem? Anybody else notice this issue?
I haven't noticed mine stopping working during a game. I would suspect it needs adjusting. Perhaps go into testing and see if you can figure out what it may be. Lloyd may have some ideas....
Quoted from pinballinreno:My spider head came loose again today.
I put some blue loctite on the screws upon reassembly this time. It should b fine now.
Its probably good to check all the heads for tightness each time you have the glass off for cleaning.
I lost a spring clip reinstalling the trap door somewhere, I imagine it will drop down in the cabinet.
Its a good idea to have spare clips, they are tiny and a pain to install, fortunately I have spares.
My spider came loose as well - so I put loctite on mine as well. Seems to be holding strong now. No issues with the other 3 beasts.
Good idea to keep an eye on it from time to time - those bottom beasts sit close to the flippers - and you can really nail the hell out of them.
Quoted from Bendit:Hobbit down!
That rubber was torn from the factory install. It's the one behind the barrels.
bummer... Noticed that JJP's store doesn't have white rubbers?
I ordered my replacements from https://www.titanpinball.com/ - but I got clear (not white). And replaced them all, and got a few extra rings and flipper rubbers (which I do green on the bottom and red on top right flipper)
By they way - there reason I went with transparent (clear) rubbers was 2 fold:
1. It doesn't appear to show grey/black residue on it as bad as white does. Looks cleaner longer.
2. It makes the lights look better when it shines on them (to me)
I also switched the black post rubbers to clear as well because the black rubber (as it ages and wears) will come off and on to the play field. The clear will do that but harder to see (so cleaner look). I still go in a wax and clear the PF every month or so to keep it nice and shiny and free of debris.
Quoted from Bendit:Good work. Wondering if I should do that too.
I think they add good protection - and I think they look cool to boot. (more metal on the PF looks nice to me - within reason of course.)
Quoted from Bendit:Sold!
Did you buy a "kit" or a bunch of them separately?
I got this for the cliffy.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/hobbit.htm
For the rubbers I went into the manual and ordered the sizes they have listed. Got a few extra like 3/8 inch IDs and stuff. Ordered them separately.
http://docs.jerseyjackpinball.com/the-hobbit/Hobbit_Manual_3_0_Dec_2016.pdf (C-104 and C-105)
Quoted from FlippyD:Finally got the barrel lamp mods all installed. They look awesome!
They do look nice - I may get those as well. Can you take a quick pick holding the original spotlight next the barrel for scale? I am worried that if it is too large it would block too much of the playfield.
Quoted from MarcelG:Excuse my ignorance if this has been spoken of already. I have a Hobbit LE on location and I am experiencing these mechanical issues (see pics). The drop target coil stop studs and drop target "latch edges" are breaking away. I can epoxy the edges back no problem and they hold, but the studs are pretty much sheared off and unfortunately, welded to the frame.
I have already called JJP and they have sent over new DT mechs, but I know this will happen again as the machine in question gets A LOT of play.
Has anyone had a machine/weld shop re-weld studs to the frame ?
Thanks to any reply.
I have had to replace two banks - just due to this. I hope JJP will correct and make those more resilient and allow existing mechs to be refurbished for a reasonable price
Quoted from sebseb12:With the code 2.00, the game is amazing.
For me it takes 2 more things:
-a grand finale (after completing the 31 modes, the 3 mini wizard mode, shoot down the dragon)
- get harder access to the mini wizard mode: example (in addition to multibead beast, ereaborn ,,): for the 1st mini wizard mode obligation to complete 2 modes; For the 2nd: obligation to finish 4 modes; For the 3rd: obligation to finish 6 modes
I think the 'arrows' that light up when you complete should go to 2 for the next one, and 3 for the BOFA. It would look cool on the backglass monitor and simple to understand. Perhaps to get the final mode you would also need to kill Smaug.
I had a protector on my THSE and cut if off after a year and it looks and plays better. To prevent too much wear I wax it every month or two. Keeps the game shiney, fast, and protected. Also the game is brighter due to the hazy used protector out of the way. I am getting a WOZ one day and I wont get the protector on it either, but will do the radcals
Quoted from ghostbc:I am having a problem with my playfield protector lifting in the center of game where lock rollover buttons are. Anyone else having this problem? Any remedy's besides taking it off? I have loosened anything that seems to be holding it down and then flattened it out . This seemed to do the trick until i checked on it later in the evening and it is floating above the buttons again.
Thanks for any advise in advance.
Mine started looking a bit scuffed up - and I could not stand that I could see dust and debris under the protector but could not wipe it off. So, I cut the protector off - and I have liked the look so much more. And when I see dust - I can just wipe it off
I just novus 1 it a bit, and add some good wax, let dry, buff to a shine and keep on playing. I do this about every 2 months if it needs it or not. Makes the game fast as hell for about 20 games or so, and then settles down a bit to playable speeds. Overall after having PF protectors once I doubt I will get them again.
Oh, and PF looks so much more colorful and vibrant without looking at it through plastic that dulls it, and I think reflects some of the GI lighting washing out the PF even more.
EDIT: If I had one on location I would probably get the protector - and when I brought it home for good I would remove it, and have a brand new PF. In home environments you will care for it properly so I don't think the protectors are needed there. If you are concerned with an area of the PF use mylar (not cover the whole PF with plastic). Just my 2 cents.
Quoted from wolv3:I've never had it trap there. What's the pitch at?
I haven't either. How does it get up there?
Quoted from attack7777:I've got an issue with a drop target I'm hoping someone can give me advice on how to fix. One of the DWARF (the W) drop targets doesn't consistently stay up when raised. If I push up the plunger that goes through the coil manually, it doesn't stay raised. If I push on the plastic piece behind the drop target that breaks the site line of the opto, it does stay up. I haven't yet unscrewed the bank of drop targets to take a closer look, but thought I'd seek advice before messing around in there.
Any suggestions?
I have had that happen 2 times now. The issue is that there is a black plastic 'ridge' that the drops will sit on when raised up. When hit it will push back off the ridge and the spring will pull it down (drop it). I have found that if it doesn't stay up well (or at all) it is because that black plastic ridge is broken. My understanding is that you can't fix it - and have to replace the entire drop target assembly.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have lost count of how many times I couldnt make the "One Ring" shot under pressure...
The game is amazing!
I think it would be cool if it took 2 shots to the right ramp to complete the mode (to make it a bit more challenging). There seems to be enough video to do a looping in during those two shots. Maybe hit the goblin first (to make the ring drop) and then the right ramp to have Bilbo pick it up.
It would also be cool if that mode - once completed - would automatically charge the ring (if not already) - or light golem.
Quoted from PanzerFreak:I'm hoping that we see another code update by or at expo with a super wizard mode!
I think Keith has a few other goodies in mind as well - but he is probably very busy on other projects. I am still certain he can continue to elevate the code on hobbit.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Oh, I get it now. I was trying to change the mode after hitting the right ramp.
If the left ramp is lit book, you can turn the pages with the flippers after you shoot the left ramp.
Quoted from Lermods:Thanks. And how do you spell RACE?
I would change the instruction on that to 'hit all letters' to qualify each race modes. -or something to that effect.
Quoted from Pimp77:Why do you care? Look at the date on the back of the machine for "born on".
Also, I bet you can call JJP and give them the serial number and they will look it up and get the LE number and build date.
Hey guys, my captive ball will sometimes not work. 50 percent of the time when I hit it - it will do as it should. Other times I can nail it straight on and it just bricks off of it and doesn't budge the captive ball at all. I took it out and it looks straight to me. So I but it back and still same behavior. I notice when I hit it more from the side - especially from the top flipper it always works - but straight on - 50/50. Anyone else having this happen - if so, how did you resolve?
Quoted from attack7777:I'd also check to see that the plastic that sits above it isn't interfering with the movement of the free-rolling ball.
Update: There is mylar on inside the newton ball path - so it does sit on mylar already. I slightly pushed out the guide rails and the ramp sides that is close and it seems to be working much better now. So I will play with it like this a few days and see if it is smooth as butter now.
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Is that from one of the beast switch guards?
No - they all seem to be intact and not broken. I checked those first. All the plastics on the playfield look OK. I think it must be something under the playfield but not sure what.
I may post this on the JJP google group to see if it gets more JJP eyes on it.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I mean, not the ball trap fix, but the clear plastic that keeps the beast leaf switches from turning sideways?
I'll check and report back - thanks!
Quoted from pinballinreno:I mean, not the ball trap fix, but the clear plastic that keeps the beast leaf switches from turning sideways?
You are right - it is from the two pieces that sandwich the leaf switches on both sides to keep the nice and vertical. I will need to remove the popup mech and replace it. I'll post pictures when I take it off for all to see. It it the goblin BTW. I'll post pictures later.
Edit. Best I can tell before I take it off is that there is just one clear piece that sits on the left side facing them.
Quoted from pinballinreno:If you order one you might as well order a couple.
This is one piece that should have been made out of black delrin imho...
I ordered 4 just in case. I'll take pics and post of the repair next weekend
Quoted from Wickerman2:had 4 Smaug Multiballs, made it through barrel escape and still didn't kill him....yet.
You will. Took me almost 10 months before I did. And now I can do it in less than 30 games or so, which means about once a weekish
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Has anyone heard anything out of Expo about Hobbit code?
Could someone at the conference ask about a release date for TH code? I know they have probably been working hard on DI and PoTC for the past few months to get those working well. But I know Keith and team can put a few finishing gems and polish into TH.
Thanks
Quoted from mima:Like this?
Yes. that is pretty good. Can you share the images and I can print them to sticker/decals?
Quoted from ronaldvg:Did you try the adjustments in the service menu ? You can put values for up and down there.
That is a good way to test - and observe behavior. It may be the motor is shot.
Quoted from Indusguys:Yep game is off, I am about to get to work! Not too sure how to put a meter on the connector, but I will see if any wires need attention.
Once you get the assembly off you may find a wire my be cut or frayed. The biggest pain is removing the top (trap door metal) of the mech (so be careful not to lose a spring - there are two - one on each side). Removing from the PF after that is a breeze.
Quoted from Indusguys:White wire is severed to the leaf switch behind the beast's head, problem solved!
So what's your next move? Can you fix the wire without replacing it?
Quoted from lschmidlin:I posted this on the JJP Facebook site – but was worth sharing with my brotheren here!
Again, more innovation that just blows me away. I was working on WOZ and noticed that the playfield lights are coordinated with the logo images. Haven't checked my Hobbit, but I'm sure it's the same. Crazy.
The Hobbit does this as well - I bet DI does too (but can't confirm)
When I see activity on this thread I get excited thinking there was a code update
Quoted from ronaldvg:Much simpler to just stand behind the pinball machine
And easier still if you are in front of the pin
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:Has anyone needed to adjust their Windlance Coil? Mine seemed to fire too hard, and the ball would go into the Radagast hole. I tried adjusting it last night with some luck (gave it a little less, down 3 I believe). Didn't get to try it against smaug, but it did serve the ball up nicely to the flipper in the mode where you need to shoot the right ramp that feeds the windlance for a smaug shot. Finished that mode for the first time last night.
I had to dial mine down as well - or it would just fire into the right vuk hole when it should fire to the right orbit and be right on top of the top right flipper. That makes for a very cool combo shot into the dwarf targets. Keith gives you a little grace period to allow you to have the ball come down and fire from the lower flippers, but I think he should shorten the timer a few seconds to make the player use the top flipper for that shot.
Quoted from Pimp77:Yes, the free qualifiers don’t count and you have to consume and re-earn them to get it.
That is the reason you can only get it on ball 1. I think you will spot a missing qualifier for balls 2 and 3 before you launch it.
Quoted from wolv3:You still have posts on your outlanes?
He did open them up as much as possible, without removing them
Quoted from konghusker:Ordered cliffys today. Better safe than sorry I figured.
Good stuff - that left VUK cliffy is a pain to get in - but I am glad it's there.
Quoted from ls1chris:Hey fellas , was just south in Mexico and found these cool letter openers I had bought to use as mods for my hobbit machine. The scale is a little big but the quality is stunning! They are made in Spain , later on I will try to find the manufacturer
They look pretty cool - but not sure where you can place ALL of them on the PF without it looking a bit like a porcupine. Maybe go with one (like Sting), but where would it go? Shooter lane maybe? Perhaps the ring would look ok on the Bag End plastic? Maybe Thorins blade on the captive ball plastic?
Interested to see what you come up with.
Quoted from thewool:The code itself is really quite linear which can make the game feel samey i.e. every Arkenstone mode is qualified the same way
I feel strongly that Keith and team are going to bring the code along nicely. But to your point - the modes are awesome, but I think the rinse and repeat for qualifying the Arkenstone modes is a bit underwhelming. Once I get into the fire I definitely feel I am in the wood chopping stage to get the next one.
Basically I feel like you take a breath and internally just say 'Again' and then do the same steps all over again. It would be awesome if Keith could shake that up and have different ways to qualify - almost like you got to the next level in the journey and now the game changes a bit. I have a few ideas, but I think Keith and team will come up with something better.
Quoted from KingBW:If you "attempt back stab" using the ring button option, the ramp diverter goes down. Maybe award extra points if you accomplish doing the U turn and do actually back stab the beast on that side of the playfield.
I didn't know that - are you sure the attempt will make the diverter go down? I will have to check on that
Quoted from Pimp77:Just popping in to say that I would love to kick whoever designed the beast mech cover/spring/clip system squarely in the NUTS!!!
I have to have my wife or son help when I need to remove it or put it back on
Quoted from LTG:Did you try raising them a little ?
LTG : )
Agree, simply adjust the bottom white/clear plastic screw under each drop target to raise or lower.
Quoted from moonduckie78:I don't have a Hobbit so I haven't really spent any time in this thread.
But I CANNOT POSSIBLY be the only person who looks at the playfield and can't help but see THIS.
This has to have been mentioned a thousand times already, RIGHT??
I have never even remotely noticed that before...interesting though.
Quoted from JimWilks:I've encountered a problem with the LOCK rollovers. The O is no longer registering. Likely just a switch needing adjustment. However, when I lift the playfield, the lock switches are buried under lots of other stuff. Anyone have any suggestions on the procedure to follow to get to these switches?
Ok - I have an idea that I would like to share. Many feel that The Hobbit has a bit too many multiballs. So here is my suggestion around the mode locks.
I think you can continue to lock the balls (up to 3) for mode locks - BUT in order to qualify the multiball you have to collect all the dwarves at the race (Dwarf, Elf or Man) BEFORE the mode you start.
For example, if you start a mode that requires DWARF to unlock it you must have collected the 4 dwarfs those drops protect. If you have you will get the multiball on mode start - if not you lose those locks and the mode will not add any balls. You would need the 3 at the ELF and 3 and the MAN to get multiballs on those modes.
You can also use color to tie it together (around the dwarfs and mode hex icon). So the dwarves in the bottom left corner would have - let's say - RED lines around the group of dwarves that correspond to the DWARF drops, blue for ELF and green for MAN.
The idea would allow you to both get fewer mutiballs on modes - and allow a fun element of unlocking the multiball to make it more satisfying that just hitting the right ramp to start a mode. And thanks to the book turning feature - you would be wise to start a mode that you have qualified the mode locks for, instead of a mode that you have not.
What about the Gandalf, Bilbo, or Radagast only modes? Then you won't need to collect dwarves for those, and it will use the mode lock as it is now. Also, to make it harder - you can require the player to collect the dwarf first (purple light), and the hit it again (yellow) light to lock it, much like the beast mechs turn yellow to meet the beast mode multiball.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I adjusted my roll overs when it was new to compensate for a low inertia ball once in awhile.
Other than that I agree the rollovers are set pretty good as far as height from the factory.
I did have to close the gap on two of them though to make them more sensitive, fast-moving balls wouldn't activate them at all initially.
I need to lower my rollovers too. I would like a good step by step on how to adjust them if anyone would mind sharing how. Pics on adjusting on hobbit specifically a plus
Quoted from Goronic:I need to lower my rollovers too. I would like a good step by step on how to adjust them if anyone would mind sharing how. Pics on adjusting on hobbit specifically a plus
I did find this - and it may help (especially for how to correct the beast switches)
But I guess I just need to get in there an learn how the rollovers work on JJP/Hobbit machines. I guess getting to them is going to require a fair amount of tear down?
Anyway, here is the link: http://homepinballrepair.com/index.php/pinball-switches-fixing-adjusting/
Quoted from pinballinreno:Perfect picture!
We gotta get you a Houdini to play with!
The plastic 'square' that protects the leaf switch on the spider broke for me too. I talked to JJP and ordered 4 (just in case it happens again) - and replaced the one that was broke.
Quoted from ikrananka:Goronic - so is it possible to just buy these from JJP?
Sure did - call JJP. Awesome support.
See The Hobbit Manual
http://159.203.76.48/th/Hobbit_Manual_3_0_Dec_2016.pdf See Pages: C-50 and C-51
Item/Part Number: 28 c) | 10-0113-00 | Pop-Up Character Switch Protector
Item/Part Number: 12 | 30-0055-00 | Pop-Up Character Switch Locator
Quoted from pinballinreno:I dont think replacing the whole assembly is in order.
The little pc board and the servo are easily replaceable parts.
The whole assembly comes out pretty easy for testing.
Hopefully you are right - do you know the part to order from JJP to replace the servo?
Quoted from pinballinreno:From the manual:
So it looks like part #: 23-5007-00 ?
I had two friends over to play pinball for the first time in over 20 years. We had a blast and played Hobbit and drank bourbon from 9 PM to 2 AM. They absolutely were blown away with the way pinball looks and plays today. Amazing lights, sounds, and music...they were both in their early fifties and were smiling and laughing like kids.
It took a few games to get the rules down, and then they couldn't get enough!
Quoted from wolv3:Does anyone's Smaug ball lock magnet actually stop the ball? I can't think of the last time mine did.
Mine stops it 99 times out of 100. Seems like it only misses it when the ball is going really fast. Be careful testing it - as I burned mine out quickly and had to replace it.
Quoted from Crile1:Played an epic game of Hobbit last night making it to the Five Armies (unfortunately Smaug survived my failed attempt to kill him along the way) with my daughter calling out the shots. It got me thinking. Do I really want this game to change with the code update? It does seem that once you make it past the Five Armies and have played all Arkenstone modes, there should be something else and then of course, a definitive Wizard mode for completing all Arkenstone modes and killing Smaug (+/- all modes...that would be a major undertaking). But I don't know if I want a change to the current ruleset that may change how Arkenstone modes are qualified, etc. I had a blast last night. I was setting things up to stack or not stack based on what I had left. I was locking two balls in Smaug and then starting an Arkenstone mode so that when it was finished, I'd only have one lock left (since they get progressively harder as you go). I think that what I'd like added is some different scoring potential. I guess when I feel I can master the game, then I can try to maximize the score. Right now, score doesn't really matter, I'm more focused on progression. I've only completed Into the Fire and have been one shot away from completing the victory laps. I've not completed Barrell Escape or Five Armies. So, right now I have plenty of goals left. Just some thoughts as I know a lot of people have said they wanted a change in the current ruleset. I thought I did, but after last night, no...I don't think I do. Just add a wizard mode and a Valinor-ish wizard mode for those who really want a lofty goal to achieve. In any case, this game is nothing but a great time. I've had it for over a year now, and it just feels so good to get into it and it is pure ecstasy to fall into the zone and have an epic game. Truly feels like a battle. Last night in Five Armies my daughter shouted, "now bash 20 beasts!" Holy smokes, I thought, that's a lot of beasts to kill...felt like I was fighting a war...or a battle for the mountain. This game truly puts you in the story.
You have good points, but I think I would like a slightly different process for qualifying that would keep the rinse and repeat down. Love the modes - but hate having to do the same things over for each mini wizard mode. I welcome anything that JJP does to enhance the game.
Quoted from thewool:To be honest I don't think the core of the game, which is what you are describing, will change. I just hope it will be enhanced/deepened/integrated, in addition to the wizard mode being added.
Some variety would be nice though... after a huge game I sometimes can't bring myself to press start and do nigh-on exactly the same thing again. I hope a code update can weave in some creativity somewhere.
I agree - the number of modes help. But that is just 1/5 of the qualifying. 4/5 of it are the exact same. Really hurts the 'one more game' when you are going to have to qualify the same again, and again.
Quoted from Pimp77:Seriously? It’s a one shot hurry-up. THAT is your favorite mode out of all of the extremely creative modes???
Sometimes you just want to get that mode rune over with, and start the mini wizard mode
Quoted from thewool:Not sure how many Hobbit owners joined tonight's POTC Twitch feed - which is looking amazing by the way. But I asked Keith in the chat for any teasers on the Hobbit code update. He said he's joining the Head2Head pinball podcast very soon and said to stay tuned! Hopefully he drops some clues on what we can expect.
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/254787722##
At the 50 minute mark Keith addresses thewoolpins question regarding the hobbit code
Quoted from thewool:First just to mention that I love Hobbit and really want it to be amazing.
As far as what it needs the fans have documented this. JJP has to be JJP though and make it their own... But default stacking of modes and MBs needs to be optional. At this point to igone this is just silly to carry this on like its cool.
Reality check. LOTR code is more simplistic than TH but superior in many ways. Not sure whether the stars thing for the modes is enough in terms of variation. This gives the modes more weight but where is the incentive to complete them? To go by completion of MAN, DWARF, etc. seems better to me.
Jury is out but I hope Keith and the team have injected more passion and creativity into the game, like what we are seeing in the Pirates feeds.
Keith said he wanted to do some things of his own too - and he may not have gotten into those things yet. I say we just wait and see where it goes in the next build before determining how effective it could/will be.
It looks like they are taking a good look at the game - and even redoing MB code and several other things. I doubt there will be major changes but there will be substantial changes for sure. Them taking the time to do another big build - and not just a small update or two is a good sign. Even though we have to wait a while longer.
Quoted from thewool:Also yeah I hope Keith and JJP are receptive to ideas. Collectively we have spent many more hours on the game than they have, and as a community have made some amazing suggestions.
I think Keith has some ideas where he wants to polish the game. But I don't expect major changes (hope I am wrong). Also, I don't think Keith will use any of the ideas presented in the forum or on pinside to be honest. (Even though I like some that have been given). Keith will do what wants to do with it - and that's that.
That said - I am optimistically hopeful in what JJP and Keith can do. We'll see.
Quoted from Audioenslaved:Time to move the game on though
Quoted from indybru:I own both and they are great games, but Hobbit is my first choice, but I feel that way with other games I own.
I just love Hobbits game play.
Not to blow smoke, but your collection is damn close to my ideal wish list 
Quoted from lschmidlin:I am such a terrible player. Been doing nothing for the last week but trying to kill Smaug. As much as I love all the modes, I'm giving up on them all until I kill this dang dragon. Not even close.
And I love the fact that everybody's kept it a secret as to what happens. They just say it's awesome with no detail.
I've done it a few times, cool multiball for sure. Not easy to do. I like that about Keith's code. Not easy and takes a while to master.
Quoted from badblackz:I’ve been thinking about the update a lot lately and I can’t help but wonder what it would be like if they completely rewrote Smaug Multiball.
I know it sounds crazy and will likely never happen, but it doesn’t have the level of detail or choreography that some of the mini wizard modes have. Into The Fire is a good example, you save party members by collecting shots and battle the beasts while doing it. The light show and sounds are amazing and it really connects you with that sequence in the movie.
Smaug Multiball is just waves of jackpot shots with a super at the end. The video is there on the screen, but the callouts and shots don’t really connect you with what’s happening and it can be tough to know how you’re progressing. What if they connected the stages to the scenes in the movie and did something like this:
Stage 1 - Bilbo searches for the Arkenstone. Complete shots to hide from Smaug and find the Arkenstone. They could incorporate the ring button here to disappear and collect one of the required shots. They could throw in a way to earn that feature through regular game play. Collecting the Arkenstone at the end could be a roving shot that flashes the colors of the Arkenstone.
Stage 2 – Flee from Smaug and relight the furnace. Complete shots to escape from Smaug, lure him to the furnace, and the final shot lights it. During this stage, the Smaug mech could be moving randomly and lighting sections of the playfield on fire momentarily as if he’s spewing fire at Bilbo and the Dwarves (think end of game sequence). Once the furnace is lit, the whole playfield could light on fire with the same effect.
Stage 3 – Covered in Gold. Complete shots to open the casting and cover Smaug in gold. Final shot could show him flying out of the gold with the “I will show you revenge” callout. There could be some cool lighting effects as he shakes off the gold.
Stage 4 - The Black Arrow. Makes shots to get the black arrow to Bard, repair the windlance, and load it. Hearing dialogue between Smaug and Bard after making each shot could be amazing and really suck you in to the final sequence. The final shot stays the same because it’s absolutely brilliant with the drop targets representing the missing scale.
Lighting locks and Locking Balls - This should also stay the same, but use dialogue and video from whatever stage you’re in.
If they did something like this, you would know exactly where you are in the multiball and it could take the experience to the next level.
Well, at first I thought you were crazy, but as I read it made more and more sense. And I ended up thinking you were right. The current phases are a bit haphazard, so maybe they will give it a little update down the road as well.
Quoted from Yfichelle:Hi all,
New problem with my hobbit pinball.... grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr...
The goblin popup doesnt work anymore – it stay closed… some times it works, sometime i just see the eyes of the goblin….
No problem with switch and coil in the test except the device test for the goblin, it doesnt work of course.
Someone had already the problem ?
Thanks,
Yannick
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:It is pretty amazing how great TH sounds out of the box.. it is miles beyond DI which came out so much later. Truly Immersive.
I agree - sound, display, and PF beauty of the hobbit is rarely in question. The beef lies - with some - in the layout of the game, and right now the repetitive nature of qualifying for the mini wizard modes.
I will add that the mini wizard modes are epic to play and very well done. Killing Smaug is also a real treat - and also difficult to do. The movie assets and sound effects used are excellent. Gandalf callouts for shooting targets - again - excellent.
Quoted from Crile1:So, do I watch the Friday stream, or wait and experience it for myself? I think I'll pass on the stream...I want to hear the new call outs and see the animations without spoilers...then I'll watch the stream. Hopefully code will be released Friday as well? Either way...YIPPEE!!
All the mode and gameplay updates look nice. But I think the new callouts and sound effect as well as the timed mode countdown speech may be the changes will be the noticed right away. Now that I can turn off mode multballs - will I? 
Quoted from Rarehero:I love mode multiballs. I like if you finish it and you've still got the multiballs going, you get those red "victory lap" shots that make the Dwarves harmonize when you hit them. I wouldn't turn that off.
I didn't know it did that!
So, when you complete a mode that had mode locks - and you have more than a single ball in play - you get victory laps?
I know some have said that hobbit is not that deep a game because it only take the same 5 objectives to start the 3 mini wizard modes. BUT, there are like 32 or so modes - that's alot. I know that JJP Pirates will have alot of modes. But as of right now - is there any other pinball machine with more unique modes than The Hobbit.
And by the way - each mode has great callouts, animations, and sound so they are each kind of cool in their own way.
Quoted from JamesMxP:Not victory laps like Smaug where each shot is worth something though. Complete all shots and you'll get the score that you received at the end of the mode, then the shots relight. You can keep doing it until you drain down to one ball.
So, take for example the One Ring mode. Can I keep shooting the right ramp to collect bonus points until I lose the multiball?
Quoted from cscmtp:I owned this game so I’m entitled to my opinion am I not? He asked if this was a good match and stated several things he was focusing on. Long ball times are a fact with his game. Would you rather lie to him than be honest!?! Current Hobbit owners act like I’m attacking you personally because I think it’s not a great pin? Stating my honest opinion is not trolling. I played the game everyday almost for 3 months...then it got super old. I’m happy the new code is out. Hopefully that helps it. everything I started here is true, and opinions are what the OP asked for. I’m sorry some of you don’t agree with my opinion, but that doesn’t make it any less valid.
Quoted from cscmtp:Okay, I setup my pin with standard settings (which a lot of people do) and I had my pitch to make the game as fast as possible. I'm a better than average pinball player that had hour long games ALL the time. I killed Smaug more games than I didn't, doing it several times a game on a regular basis. So I setup the pin to play fast and didn't make it "easy" with any settings. Does that help the context? And you are right, some people love quick games, some want long games. Budman stated he does NOT like long games, so I posted my experience with the pin because that's what he was asking. So sorry it upset so many of you current owners, but your need to attack me and down vote me is ridiculous. Budman good luck with whatever you decide. I'd definitely buy used so you can save significant money vs NIB.
You’re still here?
Quoted from cscmtp:'Merica. you damn right I'm here. Free country and all.
Alrighty, keep flaming then. Free country and all, even though this is really an international hobby and we have great pinsiders from all over the world.
Quoted from TigerLaw:Is the game officially out of production? That is often the main item to consider for the used market, more so than code (though they both play a role).
My understanding is that JJP is still making (or planning to make more Hobbits). Jack said they will have all 3 (well 4 counting pirates) of their games on the line this fall.
Quoted from check_switch_26:Previously played feeder modes affect the end-of-ball bonus. There are four quantities that factor into the bonus amount for playing a mode:
- points scored
- completion percentage
- sum of all feeder mode completion percentages
- map positionBonus amount is the first item multiplied by the sum of the other items.
--Ted
I take it if you have completed the map mode (100%), and restart it you will get 100% of the map position in the mode bonus algo - instead of it's current location after resetting - correct?
Quoted from Crile1:Did they say when the code will be available?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/details-new-hobbit-code/page/2#post-4481492
Quoted from check_switch_26:I was sort of hoping to get a release out a couple of days ago, but some other urgent things came up. I'm on vacation until the 30th. Maybe I'll be able to have something posted around Aug 2-3.
--Ted
I don't think there is a mad rush to get 3.0 out in my opinion. We, as Hobbit owners, are glad that JJP is still working on improving the code - and the last few releases lately prove that.
Enjoy your vacation!
Quoted from gorgar007:What are some of the most satisfying shots or scoring in the Hobbit?
Quoted from Crile1:Nah, I like the LE Art with all the characters better. Plus all kinds of little stuff in the background, like the trolls roasting the dwarves near the flippers. Plus have Bilbo and Gandalf on the head. If I want to see Smaug, he's in the center of the playfield. Plus, I prefer Red Smaug toy to Gold Smaug. But I will say the Smaug LE custom animation in attract mode is pretty sweet.
Good to see everyone got the one they wanted
Good point about the gold vs red Smaug. I wanted the SE and the red Smuag so I ordered an extra red. But JJP called me and said they had no extra red (they were having a hard time with supply at that time in the first year of Hobbit production). I later just cancelled my red Smaug order because I now feel that the gold is a bit better looking in the SE pin than the red one (in my opinion).
The BA has the gold Smaug toy as well. https://primetimeamusements.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/BA-playfield.jpg
Quoted from Crile1:Plus have Bilbo and Gandalf on the head.
Smaug SE has the same pin cab head as the LE (Bilbo on the left side and Gandalf on the right). However the BA edition does have different head decals.
Quoted from Rondogg:Smaug FTW
I prefer Smaug Special Edition too! - but the LE is a very close second and looks fantastic.
Quoted from chuckwurt:My understanding is you must complete each qualifier Before starting the next mode. Then the treasure hunt starts. I think after completing treasure hunt the extra ball lights.
I am also confused on this. Haha
Will need Ted to confirm. But I thought you got the revolving drop target that will light extraball shots IF you enable all qualifiers on a single ball.
Quoted from Rondogg:Same issue, got Into the Fire champ on Sunday. Turned the game on this morning and it's showing as "Thorin". Will post to googlegroups.
Are you Thorin?
Quoted from chuckwurt:Imo, you should never be able to trap from an inlane feed.
Agree - not get the ball to rest of the flipper by just lifting the flipper. If you attempt to do that it should roll up and then cross over to the other flipper. To rest it on the returning inlane flipper you will need to tap the ball a bit to get it to stop - or go straight up - and the back down on the inlane flipper. If the ball enters the inlane slowly (slower than normal) you may have no problem getting it to rest on the flipper.
Just depends...knowing when you can or can't rest the ball on the flipper - and adjust as needed - is the skill aspect of the game.
I will likely get replacement beasts sometime - and maybe extra plastics. Not sure about the whole Smaug assembly - that is a bit expensive. The rest of the molded plastic - like the pillars around Smaug and the bumper barrels don't take direct shots so they should be good for the life of the machine I would think.
Edit: I am tempted to get the ramp stickers and then take them off the ramp, chrome plate it, and the put the new stickers on. Also chrome the wireforms. Too much? Thoughts? Maybe the orbit walls too? I think it would look pretty nice.
Quoted from trilamb:Having two issues with my Black Arrow Hobbit.
1: my plunger is inconsistent. When I first got it EVERY SINGLE FULL PLUNGE would hit the A in Dwarf. Then after a month or so it stopped doing that. Now sometimes on a full plunge there's barely enough power to hit a lock rollover and once in a blue moon it will hit the A in Dwarf. It feels like spinning the plunger rod effects this. Is there some sort of magnet or device that powers the plunger? It feels when the plunger rod is spun in certain places it "catches" and there's more power? Is it just the tip of the rod that's misshapen? I'm newish to pinball so not sure what to look for to change this, but would like my consistent plunges back.
2: The captive ball Thorin Shot gets stuck. The second ball seems to get stuck on the rails so it doesn't make full contact with the captive ball. Again, this is new and didn't do this for the first month. Should I bend the rails holding the second ball a bit so they're looser?
Thanks!
1: I had to put a little folded up masking tape under the PF support arms that go into the lock down bar area to elevate the PF a few millimeters so that the shooter rod cleared the housing on top of it. There may be a better way - but that allowed it to shoot clear and strong (it was glancing the metal house above it that prevented a clean plunge)
2: My captive ball is very easy to move - or will just brick off it - depending on where it hits the captive ball. I am not sure how to adjust it. It transfers energy and hits the back target 80% of the time - other times the pinball will just bounce of of it - and the captive ball behind won't move. I don't know what I need to do - tighten the guides - loosen them? So watching closely to anyone else's suggestion.
Also, I need to drop the rollover targets a tad - not sure how to do that either. 
Quoted from LTG:White nylon screws at the bottom of the unit. Loosen nut, turn screw. Tighten nut.
LTG : )[quoted image]
Thanks, but I need to lower the rollovers, not the drops. Looking back my post was a bit confussing...
Quoted from delt31:Thanks. Seems like it has to be done from underneath. Thanks for clarifying. I'll look into it.
The drops can be removed fairly easily to work on the assemblies. I have removed them a few times.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Can you post a picture of the wireform end?
I would like to compare it with mine.
Mine does it from time to time and I haven't adjusted it at all. I am thinking about getting clear tubing - the right size - and carefully slicing a small quarter inch piece to wrap the bottom rail to see if that will deaden the spin. I will post the results (if and when I do this)
Quoted from delt31:list of right flipper shots/uses for someone that uses it all the time? I would love to skim and see what I might be missing......
I use the right flipper all the time to divert the ball to the left side (instead of the right)
To hit the captive ball shot - I seem to do a better job with the top flipper than the bottom flipper (odd I know)
To hit the dwarf targets if they are needed and the time is short
To hit the top beasts when they are up.
While it isn't absolutely necessary for a shot I am glad they kept at least 1 of the upper flippers - I would rather have a flipper than another sling.
Quoted from Rondogg:You can always see which modes you completed by going to the new progress screens by cradling the ball for a few seconds.
And yes, the two holes flash white when all modes have been played and TABA is ready.
So you can do TABA before ITF right?
Quoted from chuckwurt:Unfortunately it’s on us the enthusiasts to come up with the detailed rule sheets and walkthroughs. It’s rare that a manufacturer will produce something like that. And on a detailed game like this, extremely unlikely. Plus with code updates whatever is put together will be useless after a few updates.
Agree 100 percent. This is why I like those PAPA How To videos - they will step you through the rules and attempt to get as far as they can - explaining the rules as they go. There are 32? modes in the hobbit (each with different rules of course), several multiballs like Smaug and Beast Frenzy, three mini wizard modes with a final wizard mode (each with several phases to complete). It is a ton of modes and rules. That is quite a lot to document. Hell of a game to be honest.
Also I love how you play the Hobbit. There are 3 mini wizard modes to progress through the story. You get to fight Smaug and beasts and collect the dwarves along the way. The cool part is that the 'modes' can be played in any order (you just have to hit/unlock the qualifiers first). And you can't replay a mode in a game until all are done. This allows the game to be different one to the next. Good game.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Yeah if I owned one of these I would be happy to record a walkthrough, but alas no game at home. Maybe down the road I’ll scoop one up.
To complete each mode too? 
EDIT: I think if you start and COMPLETE each mode you should get a 1 million point bonus.
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:Adding another video to the pile for reference material, I got to Five Armies last night on the 2.96 code. Didn't complete any of the modes unfortunately but I've found it's good to have a spotter for these modes to call out the things you need to do during them.
Link should take you right to the start of that game: https://www.twitch.tv/videos/323208946?t=01h51m35s
The added call outs in the 2.97 build are great - but yeah a spotter is still nice to have.
I hear several new custom callouts from Gandalf. I wonder if JJP went back to the voice actor for some more content?
Quoted from elf70:One more thought in case that doesn't work out right - I had one button that actually had to be replaced - the clear plastic "rod" (not sure what to call it) that sticks downward from the center of the button was just slightly shorter than the other 3. It could be triggered by pushing it with the finger, but a ball rolling over it was just not enough to make that happen.
Will adjusting the switch also allow you to raise or lower the rollover target on the PF?
Ted I have a bug (sort of) - when Smaug MB starts sometime Smaug will only do a qtr turn and not a half turn to face the player. Later in the game it will have full motion left to right and so I know that Smaug isn't getting caught on something. Just wanted to pass it along.
Quoted from KingBW:One that you didn't mention that I have is I bought a shinny gold colored newton ball and captive ball. Nothing spectacular, but fits the theme better. The finish has held up well.
http://www.pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts/newton-ball
Quoted from Slapfighter:Lighted
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Awesome, I hope I can get a completed mod as my crafting skills suck
Quoted from Dkjimbo:You’ll regret selling Hobbt...
MBr is the shiny new object and you are falling victim to its seduction. It’s a great shooter and a fun game but has nowhere near the depth or strategy or immersion of Hobbit no matter how much polish they have given it. I’d love to have MBr but I’d sell anything other than Hobbit to get it.
You're probably right - I feel the same but I just want MBr too much I guess. The only answer is 'Get Both' right?
EDIT: By the way - I moved the question to the SDTM thread.
Quoted from KingBW:You would have to sell that Weta Smaug bust if you sell the pin. ?!?
Quoted from freddy:It would be must have if he made it in gold or brass . Not so much in the silver
I have it, and silver is a good choice. There is plenty of silver on the ramps and wireforms - and the contrast on the lockdown bar is great. It also allows the ring to pop more.
I would say it is a must have mod
Quoted from freddy:If that’s your flavor!
I prefer it over the decal, but yes if you don’t like that flavor it isn’t for you.
For the ISO/Full install - I have a 64G USB stick - I guess it HAS to be 8GB correct?
Because I could delta update with the 64G - but it doesn't seem to read it on boot. And I feel like I created the USB stick properly using http://159.203.76.48/th/Hobbit_Manual%203_4%20November%202018.pdf page E-12
Quoted from pinballinreno:Some work.
Try it, if the game cant see it then try a different smaller one.
I created the bootable version 3 on a 16GB stick and it didn't work - using the front USB extension cable behind the coin box. So I removed the extension cable from the back of the motherboard and plugged the USB directly to the back USB port and it worked. So did the 64GB one. So if you guys have a problem getting the USB detected on boot try the back USB slot(s).
Quoted from LTG:Did you make the coil stronger or weaker in Settings - Coils ? If that doesn't help, consider this :
http://www.pinplay.com/5/adjusting_the_ball_trough_on_woz.html
LTG : )
I think the default is 16 - and that seems to work best for my machine.
Quoted from Gibo:I agree was a cool effect,it seems to be gone
I really dig the pulsing colors on the Smaug flyby - not as much as the fire sweeping the PF though.
Quoted from XpertDBA:I'm just happy the Gollum Save light is coming on with the frequency it used to be prior to 2.96. Thanks Ted.
I did read on the other forum that Ted says he glitched the Smaug fireball over the playfield at the end of the game.
That's a beautiful scene that I hope would never go away.
Does this mean he will eventually put out another 3.01 patch at some point to fix that?
Probably. I think this build was to update the drivers and make the code features complete. I think they would patch bugs and the like later
Quoted from WolfManCat:Possible 3.0 bug to report.
Updated earlier today at noon played a few games and left the pin on and later around 8pm I went to play a new game and the sound was missing upon pushing start. Restarted the machine and all was fine.
2.99 sounded better to me - the music was a bit more pronounced and the sound effects sounded more vibrant and loud. The sound 'settings' are he same as before - so not sure what is going on.
The Hobbit mini wizard modes are absolutely awesome. I don't know of anther pin that has modes with that much light, sound, shots, and visuals - they simply rock!
The beast pop ups add so much to the game - for quick targets to shot blockers - great game.
Quoted from screaminr:I looked and found a spring in the bottom of the cabinet with one end broken off , I bent up the last couple of loops and reattached it all good now
I have new ones that I bought from JJP. But when a spring breaks I reuse it this way once - and then replace after. They don't break often - but easy to fix when they do.
Quoted from jrivelli:Hey got the new site up and selling the TrueColor plastic protectors again . Here are the hobbits, one of the best sellers so far - https://truecolorprotectors.com/products/hobbit-pinball-true-color-protectors
I like this product also - but I removed it because it is a bit too large and required filing down to make it fit properly. If they can have it a bit closer to the size of the plastics they are protecting but a tad larger it would be a much better product.
Quoted from LTG:amazon.com link »
LTG : )
I put one in my pin - and I think it was this exactly. It did work
Quoted from MoPinball:Has anybody tried to reposition the frame around the small screen on the Hobbit?
Mine is too low and too far left for me to see the whole screen from a players position. It appears to be held in place with double sided tape. Any ideas on how to remove the frame and secure it back in place?
I carefully removed mine (for the same reason) - and yes it was double sided tape (for the most part). I then replaced the tape with as thin a double sided tape as I could find (so that I would not leave a large gap) and then aligned it nicely. Looks great and not hard to do
Also, I did have to cut the tape a bit as the tape I had was too wide and it needed to be fairly narrow on the top and bottom.
Quoted from Rondogg:These are awesome especially since the centers allow for the light to pass through naturally through the pf plastics. The only problem is that they are too wide, specifically where the ball drops from the 3 wire forms. I had to pull my belt sander out to carve out the drop points properly. Otherwise, well worth the $.
I agree, the are great but too big so I pulled mine out. I need to sand them down to get them to fit. If the were a tad closer to the size of the plastics they would be perfecto
Quoted from lschmidlin:Party went great. Thanks for the encouragement. No 3.0 issues at all. They even called The Hobbit as the last game at 2 AM!
Your collection is awesome!
Quoted from PACMAN:Whats a Smaug version worth nowadays? Probably 2 dozen plays on it.
I think HUO Smaugs top out at 7K. Maybe with plays that low 7,200 ish.
I have seen them as low as 6500 if the owner is trying to sell it as quick as possible. So 6500 to 7200 range depending on condition and play count. NIB is around 8.5 to 9K
Quoted from check_switch_26:Unfortunately, we couldn't get "Misty Mountains Cold". The licensing for that music involves multiple layers of ownership rights, which was much too difficult to work through.
--Ted
Thanks for the info. Any chance we can turn down the 'Chip the Glasses' a bit (during the mode) when you complete that rune? It is ....well .... not that great a song and seems to be a bit too loud to me... I like all the other music a lot - so I don't want to turn them all down.
Also, what do you do in that mode? I just check it off the list and keep going. Is there a victory lap /bonus period that you are trying to cash in points?
Quoted from KingBW:I had that happen at a long party and Ted told me and posted that he has it fixed in the next release.
Cool - it happened to me as well a few weeks ago. I just rebooted it - but on location that could be a problem. Glad it is getting fixed
Quoted from joelbob:So I finally had a rubber break in my game. Anyone have suggestions on a good replacement set? If I go with Titan rubbers does anyone have any color suggestions?
Quoted from joelbob:Do you have pictures? What colors did you use on the flippers and did you replace the posts as well?
Quoted from Goronic:I’ll post some later today. I replaced the posts with clear ones as well. However, the bottom flippers are using green and the top right is using red.
011F829E-2445-491A-82B4-58AEEFB268AD (resized).jpeg453EA986-ECE7-4972-BE79-5B34AD1EA569 (resized).jpeg705F3077-E0AF-4671-A45D-B10441ED1924 (resized).jpeg93F26E35-21C0-4BF4-AA84-117BDBCA01B4 (resized).jpegQuoted from Rdoyle1978:just did mine last night - I hadn't updated since 2.997 and I caught a lot of subtle lighting changes! awesome!
I second the call for "Rufus" - UNetBootIn didn't work for me either (first time that's been a problem)
I have used both and I prefer Rufus after using it for 3.10
Quoted from wesman:Do you think they're worth the extra $500?
Not sure about 500 bucks. Some really like the LE and BA better. I think Smaug is the best - but you will need to decide
Quoted from Jgaltr56:Lift the playfield and actuate the mech manually to get familiar with how it works. Check the spring attached to the E. Possibly broken or needs to be shortened. Or look at plastic ledge that is riveted to the mech to make sure it's not broken.
I wonder why JJP used a fairly brittle plastic for the ledge, I would prefer some form of metal or at least a stonger form of material than what it is now.
Quoted from Jgaltr56:There's no college course on pin design. So much is tribal knowledge acquired from experience and lost through turnover. A metal ledge would probably cause another problem with drops breaking but at least they are easier to replace. I will try 3d printing ledges when mine fail and figure out another way to fasten them in place.
Yeah. I would rather replace the drop than the whole assembly for sure.
I replaced my Smaug as well when the mouth stopped working. In my opinion JJP should provide instructions (and part - purchased of course) to replace the motor. That is typically the reason for the failed mech. That, or allow the Smaug mech to be shipped to JJP for repair (owner would be charged shipping and repair). That should be way less than the $500 replacement.
Quoted from Wildbill327:Is there a way to change how many modes are qualified from the start of a game?
Not that I am aware of.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Just applied this.
HOLY F#CK! lol.
I have since applied it all of my games.
The spinner on my TH keeps spinning and spinning!
Thanks.
Quoted from Jon9508:It's crazy. 2 solid spinner hits and your there.
I don't want it that crazy easy - maybe just a dab will do ya
Quoted from Ponzie:Hey everyone,
Just added a Hobbit Smaug Gold Edition to the collection.
It has the center post installed but in looking in the coin box, the little rubber piece that fills the hole if you remove the post is gone.
Any suggestions on how to fill the hole if I remove the post?
Can't seem to find the part on the JJP website...
Thanks!
I still have my post in the PF - and I am a NIB buyer. I don't recall seeing anything to put in the remaining post hole if you remove it.
Quoted from Koos:Is it normal behaviour that the magnet up at Smaug (ball lock) is not catching my ball 50% of the time? I'm not talking about the magnet in the orbit, I mean the magnet on the steel rail up next to his head.
Even when the ball travels slowly it just drops richt of the rail instead of holding a second or two on the magnet.
Just wondering if this is normal.
Mine catches about 8 times out of 10. So it can miss from time to time.
My lock rollovers are too high above play field and are getting chipped up and causing air balls. I think I will get replacements from JJP and when I place the new ones back in I can adjust height. My question is has any one replaced those? Is it a pain to get to them for removal?
Quoted from LTG:Unscrew from the bottom of the playfield.
Have you adjusted the leaf blade switches to lower the part sticking up too high above the playfield ?
LTG : )
Thanks - not yet - I will give it a go.
Quoted from screaminr:Wish I could help . Mine is fairly new under a year old .
Mine is coming on 3 years old...catches them very well. However, I would like to know exactly why the others are not so I can correct the issue if it comes up.
Quoted from screaminr:For what it's worth I've done all the updates as they've come out and my machine hasn't skipped a beat , still catches every ball .
I doubt that it is software update related - but hell I don't know for sure
Quoted from bgwilly31:Worked great before i decided to remove the PF protector cause i hate them.
Bingo - same. I think the factory had the set a bit higher due to this (and it would be correct). After removing the PF protector they are simply too high - need to lower. I guess I will give it a go and hopefully I get them leveled correctly without too much trouble.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:There are either none, one or two small washers inside the lock rollover buttons. These were used to help correct the height difference caused by installing a Playfield Protector. If you removed the protector, open up the button and remove one or both washers to bring the height down.
Awesome, I'll check tomorrow night
Quoted from MrBubbles:I'm not sure when I'll have a chance to take a look at this. Can you please let me know if you end up finding this to be true? And if so, any pointers. Thanks!
Ok. So I removed the 'L'ock roll over button. There is an led board above it you will need to remove first (2 screws). Then you will be able to remove the 3 screws (triangle pattern) holding the rollover to the playfield. NOTE: The LED board only covers one of the rollover screws - you can access the other 2 rollover screws cleanly.
Anyway, as you can see it is a leaf switch. There are no washers IN the rollover button/target- and no apparent way to adjust the height. It just rests on the switch. The only way I know to 'lower' it would be to put washers between the rollover and the playfield so that you get some separation that would effectively lower it. However, there is a good mess of wires that you would need to 'clear' to get access to all the rollovers. I am just going to put it back for now - maybe I will address it more later.
Hope this helps.
9F128B90-68AE-4585-A9F4-25C8BACE6CE2 (resized).jpegA094E884-2D6A-4AC8-ADB4-9D05AAC6FE48 (resized).jpegD587740C-5D62-4099-830E-3F21C636EF80 (resized).jpegD6DD13F5-E483-46B8-9982-24A2F34B86AD (resized).jpeg
Quoted from pinballinreno:I just bent the leaf switch to make it whatever I needed.
That may be the only option - and it would work. I was just hoping for another way. So it's bending the switch - or putting spacers/washers where it attaches to the PF. Honestly, I think I will go with the washer option - that way it may be uniform across all the rollovers and won't require getting all the leaf switches the same.
Actually - I think what I am going to do is get some plastic washers and slightly longer wood screws (to account for the washers) and try it out. Should work perfectly
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Kernersville, NC
