Mine are also starting to fold up but at this point it's very minor and not impacting the ball at all.

Sorry... maybe this was asked before... ist there something like a cliffy protector for the VUKs yet?

I would prefer this mantis style protectors though.

I'm officially in the club!! I have a happy wife, allowing me a happy pinball life.

IMG_20160628_175958467_(resized).jpg

IMG_20160628_224134251_(resized).jpg

Funny, I just bent mine back down last night. I too have the protector. A suggestion of strong double-sided tape to the bottom of the flaps might work long term. I bent them back, but they will eventually lift back up.

I think I have solved the ball spin-out problem when it drops down thru the wireform loops. It actually happens on both the left and (mostly) the right. I have still had this happen even though I put a rubber on the wire guide.

I was watching the ball carefully (no beer in me at all) while it dropped out of the loop.
The ball doesnt always spin out of the lane, defying gravity all the way into the golum lane and drain, every time. Only once in awhile and at the worst possible time. A fast running ball can have a huge spin on it.

If everything goes well, on a regular shot, the ball rolls down the wireform and rolls down the loop, bounces a little and then goes down the lane.

However if the ball rapidly circumscribes the ring before dropping, this puts a spin/rotation on the ball that makes it roll up and out of the lane.

My wireform "double" loops were not parallell to the PF. In fact they were hanging a bit low in the downhill side by about 3 degrees.
This angle made it easier for the ball to spin out of the lane as it was more in line the the balls rotation.

In order to counter the spin on the ball one must convert it to a lateral spin instead of an uphill spin, you have to bend the loop up a bit.

The goal is to have the "double" loop bent upward on the downhill side in relation to the PF angle.

The problem was how to do it easily without applying too much pressure on the form and ripping out any mounting screws, as you have to bend it at least 1/4"to 5/16" especially if the bend was negative (like mine) when you started.

I ended up hooking a 3/8 (or bigger) nut driver inside the lower "double" loop with the handle over the wireform side, pressing carefully until the nut driver handle was basically resting in upper part of the wireform itself. The bending of the double loop didnt break the welds or harm it as far as I can see, as I was being careful.

I actually did this on both the left and the right sides.

The upper single loop can also be bent up so that it matches cosmetically but its not really neccessary. (I just wedged a big screwdriver in and bent it up a bit so it looked level).

Kpg has mentioned in this thread that you can put a rubber on the wireguide in the lane. This actually works as it will brake the spin of the ball when it hits it, but for me it blocks the lane a bit, and its hard to get a tiny rubber that fits properly.

If the loop is bent up enough the problem is solved forever, as the ball spin will be lateral now instead of uphill.

I hope this helps anyone else with this problem. As always your milage may vary, its pinball.

I'll have to do this as I get the spin out the drain every so often. Extremely angering when it happens.

unreliable source!!!!

Its designed to happen on the last ball of a killer multiball deep into the game, when you are just about to crack your highest score.

Watch out everyone, STLE Stern defender in the house On the newest code, my STLE kickback has probably failed once...maybe twice in about 500 games that i owned it. I'd say thats pretty acceptable.

P.S -
Cant wait to play your hobbit. Hoping my budget can fit one in my lineup in the near future ...but the dead are calling me too. Dam this hobby!

I hope you become an "Owner" some day! TH is an awsome game and this "Owners" thread has helped get the kinks out of this new technology that JJP has offered us. So far its been an amazing experience many thanks to all of the "Owners" who have contributed.

Im happy that you love your STLE.

He sold it to KPG, who has already sold it because he is too busy playing Hobbit!

My family is loving our new hobbit

I think Into the Fire is my favorite mode so far! It is so much fun.

I got into the mode twice last night. What a game. I can't wait to see how the updates keep changing it.

I just hope mine comes before my birthday.

Crap, kpg frozen. Hope it is of short duration as I valued his posts in this thread (and others).

Mine is on the way. I can't wait.

Is anyone else having troll flap problems? Every few games one of the troll flaps gets stuck up and the glass has to come off to pressure back down. Usually occurs if a ball gets stuck in troll when its dropping. After the ball search runs, the troll flap is stuck about 2 cm up in front.

This game could never be on route due to this. I guess Hobbit was only intended as a home use game?

Hey mark. Do you have access to a 3d printer? You can print the fix for this

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1575390

I noticed mine has mylar around only 3 pop ups. The upper left one doesn't have it. Is this the same as everyone else and should I put mylar around it myself?

Hey that's pretty awesome. Thanks. Are there any install instructions or good photos of what it looks like installed?

My game has Mylar on all four beast pop ups. I would contact JJP, that piece is cut special for that area.

Just that picture in the link.
And this one
Think you need to remove the mechs to install. No idea how hard that is as I don't have my TH yet. 6 weeks and counting

hobbitFix_(resized).jpg

I wonder if a black 3D printed version will block any of the troll lights. I'll investigate this weekend. Thanks again.

So jjp is sending me the pop up mylar. Question as I've never installed mylar. I've read somewhere to wax playfield before installing mylar. Is that correct, and does mylar instantly stick or can I adjust if needed easily?

^^^^^^^^I wouldn't wax it. It is self-adhesive, I presume, so I would try to clean any dirt, dust, wax, oil, etc. build-up by wiping it down with some naptha. Unless anyone else has a better idea. I guess maybe rubbing alcohol would work, too.

i will wait for the JJP version

i think this will be free vom JJP when it is approved
also the fix for the left wire ramp
and for the smaug

OK so no wax. Is it easy to apply and adjust if needed?

That is the JJP version. I believe the file was shared by them.

I have bought sheets of mylar with stickum in the past. I would cut out donuts to put around pop bumpers, small circles to put under wire ramp exits where the ball would drop, and half moons for in front of sling shots. Once it's down, it's pretty much down. You can peel it up but it's very difficult to peel back an edge without jeopardizing the playfield finish. My advice is to start at one corner and check your alignment as you lay more of it down (contact with playfield). Don't put down the final little corner of the last edge unless you are satisfied with the alignment. If all looks good then smash it down. Then take something soft, like a cloth, and take your finger and rub the mylar like you are trying to rub out air bubbles. This pressure will insure complete and lasting contact. If you don't like the alignment near the end, then you have that one little sliver that you can grab hold and peel it up. I don't know if the glue will be as sticky trying to reuse the same mylar piece if you have give it a second try. Helps to have a back-up piece. Just my experience. As I said before, naptha is the best at cleaning old glue off playfields when removing old mylar. Some solvents affect the finish and inking but naptha has proven to be gentle to playfields.

What is wrong with Smaug that needs fixing?

Mylar will get dirty in time and people want to replace it with new during a full shop job.
Waxing before you apply the Mylar makes it easier to remove without damaging the playfield.

The adhesive on most Mylar brands is pretty aggressive and will stick perfectly even if you wax below it.
Just make sure the wax is buffed and there are no white granules left on the surface to make bubbles.

Sounds good. Thanks for the advice on mylar guys.

Yes every time the Warg "gulps" down a ball it alters the switch and works poorly until I look into it and re-adjust it, same with the orc.

It used to be that when a creature ate a ball they would be stuck forever until you physically dug them out. Then you would adjust the switch at that time.
Now with the software fix the creature will spit up the ball back in play, but you still have to adjust the switch once in awhile.

And yes, a lot of us have chimed in, and felt that stuck balls in the mechs would make location play a nightmare.

Nope. The tester scanned the object and made the 3d file himself

at the right side the ball could stop
after airballs

I havent had this happen yet (crossing fingers).
I think its a lot more common to have a ball stuck on top of the right plastic behind the spot light post. But this is not too hard to fix.

I've been getting a bunch more air balls now plus the right ramp flange has lifted some. I put 2 sided tape under it, but it's working itself back up. Anybody have a suggestion on the air balls. I turned the flippers down to about 22-23 and pitch is at 6.9 degrees. I waxed it and the table picked up some serious speed. Probably shouldn't have waxed it. Lol.

On the curling ramp flaps, I loosened the screws on the ramp, lifted the ramp and bent the flaps straight. After this, I reattached the ramp but did not tighten the screws very much just barely snug. The ramps will curl if you crank the screws back down, but if they're loose, they seem to stay straight.

Looking ahead on purchase can you slide nib down stairs in the box?

I have 12 stairs to basement straight shot down. Other option hire a guy that has escalara.

Btw played TH at a local venue this week with my neighbor and his son we had a blast.

Definitely just be prepared it is super duper heavy!!

I slid my Hobbit downstairs in the box no problem. I've slid a few down my stairs over the years and the Hobbit was by far the heaviest.

I don't now if this is off topic. Iv order the hobbit since it where release but still not have it yet.
I really like to now whats the opinoin off owners. will much appreciate it. But if its to much off topic
feel free to remove it. gr udo

I couldn't wait any longer for the Smaug I have on order, so I picked one up from another pinsider.

It fills out the Fantasy corner pretty well!

(if anyone wants a Smaug spot, let me know)

hobbit_(resized).JPG

Since I changed the pf slope to 7 the biggest difference has been that I am not getting as many ball diversions by the rollovers or even the mylar atround the slings and pop ups. I never thought that by increasing the slope, the game would be easier to play, if that makes sense. So at least on TH, a higher slope seems to make the game more agreeable for me.
Into the fire has to be one of the coolest wizard modes, esp when it first begins. Keith and Ted have really taken advantage of combining the lcd and sound with this mode. Really cant get enough of this game as it is different every time you play. Aiming to get ITF is a great goal...cant wait for the next 2 mini wizard modes. TH has a lot to offer, so different than anything out there.

My first unboxing video.

hhaha really funny video

Same here, raised the the back legs, made a big difference on the the ball walking the pop ups I also installed a playfield protector and that stopped all of the ball walk on the roll overs. Had some ball sticking on the MAN and ELF targets. I adjusted the drop targets up a bit to stop that. It's nice that JJP made those targets individually adjustable for synchronicity. Also I haven't had any beast ball stick problems since I installed the protector. ? So now I have been ball stick free ?

In any of these play videos I'm still trying to work out the point of that 3rd flipper.

A few uses...re-lighting kickback at the captive ball when the ball drops out of the pops, kicking over barrels after the ball leaves the pops to work towards an extra ball, and the mode where you have to hit the Smaug targets following a kickback to the right orbit (and killing Smaug in Smaug multiball). It's useful for hitting the Orc or goblin beasts if running out of time too.