Looking to replace the ramp flaps on my Hobbit, however JJP only sent me the first 2 pages of the 3 page instructions. I have contacted them several times, but still have not instructions. Can someone scan and send me the pdf. Just did the Cliffy's. Might as well get the rest completed. Thank you in advance.

Send a pm to pinballomatic, see if he has them.

LTG : )

I know the points scored in the Arkenstone mode depends on the prior mode you do but clarification- is it just the last mode you play or the last mode you compete or which mode matter for scoring? If it just the last one you play before going in than is it better to complete an easier mode or try but fail a hard one?

Highest-star mode completed, order doesn't matter

I’m having sound issues with my hobbit. It works fine sometimes when I first turn it on but after a few plays the music is playing but the call outs are very muffled - almost can’t hear them at all - and sometimes the stereo surround fades from left to right. I hope this is just some loose audio wire but I’m clueless. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I don’t have a hum or loud noise like what sounds like the ground loop isolator problem was - it’s lack of sounds and mostly call outs.

i had same issue. i replace the audio board and the ground loop isolator but nothing solve it but i just replace the aux cable and its solve it! please buy a better Aux cable and replace it. most of hobbit machines have cheap Aux cable who made many issues. i bought really good one and have awesome sound!

this is the one i use and they are awesome
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Professional-Silver-Plating-Tangle-Free-Audiophile/dp/B00WHUTQP6/ref=sr_1_3

i also change it to my other machines and it made the sound much much better!

Remove the ground loop isolator between the computer box and the speaker.

its way in the back behind the computer box on the right maybe.

looks something like this, maybe a bit shorter and fatter:

https://www.amazon.com/Carwires-MJ35NF-Premium-Ground-Isolator/dp/B07SQBMH7P/ref=sr_1_2_sspa

You can also plug in headphones straight in the computer, bypassing the power amplifier. If you can hear clear audio, you know it's not the computer motherboard. It's pretty rare to have the motherboard audio jack fail though. But, if it sounds like crap out of the motherboard, take it from there.

Thanks everyone for your help. I tried replacing the cable per Lior’s suggestion. Only played a couple games since but so far so good! Thanks again all! Love this game and it’s call outs!

Does anyone have a link to a good rulesheet image for the custom graphic?

Does anybody have any pics of the art blades from pingraffix on a game? I’m debating on the two options they offer and would like to see how they both look installed. Also, is a blade protector needed on hobbit and woz for the blades or not? Thanks

I use blade protectors religiously.

Its a good habit to develop after damaging a couple games.

where did you get the protectors? Thanks

I have 2 sets now, one for the shop, one for the gameroom.

With a little maneuvering they fit inside most games thru the coin door.

https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

Perfect. Thank you

What's the best stuff to use to clean the black crap off the rubbers .
I'm thinking detergent on a rag ( soapy water ) but is there anything better .
I did read somewhere to use lighter fluid and I also thought about methylated spirits but wouldn't that be corrosive on the rubber .

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Step 1: Make a Titan order and replace the junk stock rubber. https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/1081

Step 2: Clean with Naphtha. NEVER use water on a pinball machine! NEVER!

Yes VM&P Naptha or lighter fluid (same thing) works, and is a must have for cleaning mechs, coil sleeves and plungers.

If you want to get fancy RC-88 rubber cleaner does actually work better. Its mostly naptha with a detergent, but smells horrible:

https://www.pinballlife.com/wildcat-rc-88-rubber-cleaner.html

The stock rubber plays ok on this game, but in my opinion, after trying them all, Perfect Play opaque green plays the best on this game.

I did not like the Titans.

The way they play? The way they look? both?

The way they play.

However I have super bands on my IJ (tough to install) and they work well.

Urethane has a "dead bounce" feel, it works pretty good on a lot of games.

I choose flipper fubbers based upon how they play on each particular game.

Some games need bounce, some need less bounce, some need ball control etc.

I have Titan purple on my Houdini.

Perfect Play on my WOZ and TH.

Perhaps the Titan “Low Bounce” flipper ring variant behaves like the Perfect Play rings?

I think its very similar, or the same stuff.

Everyone I know that has tried the new Titan Low Bounce LOVE them. I'll be switching my games over very soon.

I have black flipper rubbers on my BA so don't see dirt. Black rubbers would look ok on the yellow bats, or you could replace the bats and rubbers to black.

Thanks mate , I have some in the cupboard .

Once you go black...

How hard is it to change out the bats? I haven't done that before. Also, which do you recommend I go with to go on a JJP? Should I just contact JJP (or check their online store) for the ones that they use in the Black Arrow edition? (I have the yellow ones that come with the Smaug Gold Edition).

You know...while I am at it I wonder how the flipper buttons would look if I switched them from the yellow ones to black???

I'm the wrong guy to ask mate, only had pinnies for 18 months.

Easy if you can work a wrench.

LTG : )

Hello everyone, I have been asked for pictures of the installation of the second screen I hope this will help you have a good weekend

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I would like to know more about that glass cover!

What modes do you guys go for if your trying to get a good mode score? My strategy is to get resurgence of Sauron then rip spinners and shoot the left ramp when you're getting low on time. You can get 10k+ per ramp. Makes for a lucrative treasure hunt mode too.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CP-100

This stuff is great for rubber cleaner, also great for playfield light cleaning.

Fred550 - thanks for the pics - awesome job with the mod!

thank you very much I send you the links
for all that is pinball pad
Super serious
the right corner a used site

https://www.facebook.com/Design-Flip-arcade-1201857069992288

https://www.leboncoin.fr/collection/1891573918.htm

I found some contact cleaner and decided to use that , it said it was non-corrosive , safe on plastic , left no residue and was fast drying .
The white rubber came up looking like new , same with the stand up targets and the Flipper rubbers are a lot better .
I just sprayed a little bit on a microfiber cloth and gave it a wipe and it came straight off .

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The N on my man Target won't pop up , the spring looks fine , it pops up during coil test and I can't see any broken ledge pieces .
Found these two screws in the cabinet , don't know if they have anything to do with it .

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I'd check the brackets holding the coil that shoves it up. If the studs the nuts go on shear off, binds things quite nicely. Or broken coil sleeve.

That holds it when up, doesn't effect going up.

Black one looks like a coil stop screw ? The other one looks like it holds bracket on, one on either underside edge of the playfield with the post sticking out ?

LTG : )

Thanks as always Loyd , I'll check it out when I get home .

Is there a setting to turn off beasts on hobbit pinball? My beasts are not popping up. All 4 of them. The light still shows up as if the shot is there

Did you clip the tie wraps that hold them down in shipping?

If you did this -

Then yes. You can turn them off in Game Settings page B-33 in the manual. Near the end of Game Settings in the menu under Pop Up Mechs - towards the end of the Game Settings.

Or you can fix them. Loosen the nut on the bottom of the assembly and above it spin the rubber stopper a little higher and retighten the nut for a start.

LTG : )

Black one looks like a coil stop screw ? The other one looks like it holds bracket on, one on either underside edge of the playfield with the post sticking out ?
LTG : )

You're the man Loyd .
The black one was a coil stop and the silver one went into the end of the rail , hard to see when the playfield was lifted up .

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Newbie question- how sensitive are your “LOCK” rollover targets? For example if I cradle the ball and shoot for one of ramps and rollover the target it is too fast to register a rollover - so I can’t really shoot directly for them - mostly I get them from them rolling back after I hit a beast or if it doesn’t make it up a ramp or sideways cross playfield shots.

If these should be more sensitive then when I adjust the leaf switch do I slightly bend the long leaf closet to the playfield down away from the playfield or do I bend the shorter lower leaf up towards the playfield? Or something else all together? Thanks in advance for the help!

Lloyd: Great video for the flippers on JJP. I've got a Stern POTC and just did a flipper re-build. The bat is attached via an allen wrench 5/32". I tighteneed to what I thought was a good torque only to have the bat continue to twist. I'm afraid to torque it much more? Is there a Lock-tite type product that would seize it up and still allow disassembly later? Or do I just ball bust it tight?

I use a small 6" ratchet/socket wrench and a 3/8" socket to tighten the pawls.

You can tighten them a lot until the pawls close completely (you can see the gap).

Too much tightening can break off the bolt, so dont go too far past where the pawl gap closes completely.

That said, you can tighten them a lot to get the bats firmed up.

They will tighten effectively without any loctite.

Make sure the bats have some in and out movement and are NOT dragging on the flipper bushing or dragging on the playfield.

3/64" of gap is perfect, or a thin credit cards width.