(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 12,956 posts
  • 744 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by LTG
  • Topic is favorited by 272 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_8381 (resized).jpeg
IMG_8406 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1276 (resized).jpeg
HobbitLedsOut (resized).jpeg
IMG_2178 (resized).jpeg
20240302_150524 (resized).jpg
20240302_144015 (resized).jpg
20240302_141944 (resized).jpg
20240302_154644 (resized).jpg
20240302_120255 (resized).jpg
IMG_2727 (resized).jpeg
20240229_193835 (resized).jpg
IMG_2566 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2565 (resized).jpeg
20240218_004618 (resized).jpg
20240218_004645 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

16 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 12,956 posts in this topic. You are on page 186 of 260.
#9251 3 years ago
Quoted from Crumbalimb:

I got my Lior mods in and they look AWESOME. As always great quality and fun times adding them to my games.They definitely make the games more high end even though JJPs are already great looking. The legs hanging out of the barrel is totally funny and if you know the story totally fitting for the game:}
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

thank you very much!
enjoy your new mod

Quoted from Chopper36:

Who sells those Mods they look great

thank you. me

#9253 3 years ago

My goblin target head broke off. I ordered a new one but need to install it. I can't find any info on how to replace it. How do I go about this

#9254 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeffswack:

My goblin target head broke off. I ordered a new one but need to install it. I can't find any info on how to replace it. How do I go about this

You are going to love this one. This is how I do it.

Turn the game off. Above the playfield. Lift the character up and secure it so it doesn't drop back down. I use a vice grips on the side of the carriage.

You have to remove the trap door. It has two posts going into the carriage. Each post has a small clip and a spring. I put a magnet nearby for when things go flying so you don't lose the 2 clips or 2 springs. Remove the trap door flap. Let the carriage go back into the playfield.

Under the playfield disconnect the character connector, up/down switch connector, and coil connector. 5 screws hold the assembly to the underside of the playfield. Remove them and remove the whole assembly.

Take it to your table or work bench. Take the thing apart so you can get the carriage out of there. Then remove the two screws holding the character leaf blade to the carriage. Then you can get at the leaf blade switch to put on the new character face.

Then reassemble it.

Then be sure the character goes up and down smoothly. You may get lucky and it doesn't stick or bind. Or you have your work cut out for you. On one that is hard. I spent an hour loosening this, moving that tightening them. It's a barrel of fun to get it right.

Then stick that sucker back in the game.

LTG : )

#9255 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

You are going to love this one. This is how I do it.
Turn the game off. Above the playfield. Lift the character up and secure it so it doesn't drop back down. I use a vice grips on the side of the carriage.
You have to remove the trap door. It has two posts going into the carriage. Each post has a small clip and a spring. I put a magnet nearby for when things go flying so you don't lose the 2 clips or 2 springs. Remove the trap door flap. Let the carriage go back into the playfield.
Under the playfield disconnect the character connector, up/down switch connector, and coil connector. 5 screws hold the assembly to the underside of the playfield. Remove them and remove the whole assembly.
Take it to your table or work bench. Take the thing apart so you can get the carriage out of there. Then remove the two screws holding the character leaf blade to the carriage. Then you can get at the leaf blade switch to put on the new character face.
Then reassemble it.
Then be sure the character goes up and down smoothly. You may get lucky and it doesn't stick or bind. Or you have your work cut out for you. On one that is hard. I spent an hour loosening this, moving that tightening them. It's a barrel of fun to get it right.
Then stick that sucker back in the game.
LTG : )

This is exactly right. A pain for sure, but is the correct way

#9256 3 years ago

Beat Smaug again tonight, and what an awesome sequence. Seems to easiest way for me to do it is trap a ball on both flippers, hit the right ramp with the left flipper to load the Wind Lance, and then hope you can hit that target from the right flipper.

#9257 3 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Beat Smaug again tonight, and what an awesome sequence. Seems to easiest way for me to do it is trap a ball on both flippers, hit the right ramp with the left flipper to load the Wind Lance, and then hope you can hit that target from the right flipper.

But it’s so much more fun from the top flipper.

#9258 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

You are going to love this one. This is how I do it.
Turn the game off. Above the playfield. Lift the character up and secure it so it doesn't drop back down. I use a vice grips on the side of the carriage.
You have to remove the trap door. It has two posts going into the carriage. Each post has a small clip and a spring. I put a magnet nearby for when things go flying so you don't lose the 2 clips or 2 springs. Remove the trap door flap. Let the carriage go back into the playfield.
Under the playfield disconnect the character connector, up/down switch connector, and coil connector. 5 screws hold the assembly to the underside of the playfield. Remove them and remove the whole assembly.
Take it to your table or work bench. Take the thing apart so you can get the carriage out of there. Then remove the two screws holding the character leaf blade to the carriage. Then you can get at the leaf blade switch to put on the new character face.
Then reassemble it.
Then be sure the character goes up and down smoothly. You may get lucky and it doesn't stick or bind. Or you have your work cut out for you. On one that is hard. I spent an hour loosening this, moving that tightening them. It's a barrel of fun to get it right.
Then stick that sucker back in the game.
LTG : )

My Orc broke a few weeks ago and found a new one on Marco (JJP was sold out).

Getting the entire carriage out of my game was 'too much' due to heavy/tight wiring in my game, so I managed the swap with mech still in the game. The only real problem I ran into was the new Orc mold was NOT drilled out sufficiently to match the back-plate so I used a knife to increase the hole size a bit.

#9259 3 years ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

My Orc broke a few weeks ago and found a new one on Marco (JJP was sold out).
Getting the entire carriage out of my game was 'too much' due to heavy/tight wiring in my game, so I managed the swap with mech still in the game. The only real problem I ran into was the new Orc mold was NOT drilled out sufficiently to match the back-plate so I used a knife to increase the hole size a bit.

If you can swap it without removing the mech that is quite a feat.
I had to pull the mech to swap out my warg. Total PITA just like LTG said it was.

#9260 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

If you can swap it without removing the mech that is quite a feat.
I had to pull the mech to swap out my warg. Total PITA just like LTG said it was.

It wasn't easy. But in my case, removing the mech was going to be even worse.

#9261 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

If you can swap it without removing the mech that is quite a feat.
I had to pull the mech to swap out my warg. Total PITA just like LTG said it was.

If you have the right tools, it isnt too bad. I havent had to remove the mech for this yet.

You just have to work like a surgeon in a small space and not bend the switch too much.

Dropping and loosing the springs and clips is the worst part. LTG is right about that, its good to have spare clips and springs before you start just in case.

I surround the area with a towel and use hemostats to grip the small parts.

#9262 3 years ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

My Orc broke a few weeks ago and found a new one on Marco (JJP was sold out).

JJP's site always says "Sold Out", just call them and they will reload the stock and you can order them.

#9263 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Dropping and loosing the springs and clips is the worst part. ltg is right about that, its good to have spare clips and springs before you start just in case.
I surround the area with a towel and use hemostats to grip the small parts.

Also, it's easier for the beasts closest to habbitrails, to remove the habbitrails first or they are in the way making it much harder to access the spring and clip on trap door.

#9264 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

JJP's site always says "Sold Out", just call them and they will reload the stock and you can order them.

Agree. But perhaps Lior will give us an alternative

#9265 3 years ago

Well I did it this time. Got the head and carriage reassembled working and installed...boot it back up to find

Searching ball errors and these

20201008_165722 (resized).jpg20201008_165722 (resized).jpg
#9266 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeffswack:

Searching ball errors and these

Smaug head move freely ? Tests in devices.

F drop target of the E L F bank go up and down okay, and register is Tests - Switches - Matrixed ?

LTG : )

#9267 3 years ago

For you fellow owners, do you have cliffy's on your game? Where did you orders yours from?

#9268 3 years ago
Quoted from GTO:

For you fellow owners, do you have cliffy's on your game? Where did you orders yours from?

Yes, from Cliff himself.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/hobbit.htm

#9269 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Smaug head move freely ? Tests in devices.
F drop target of the E L F bank go up and down okay, and register is Tests - Switches - Matrixed ?
LTG : )

I feel like an idiot. Once it was brought to my attention all my errors where on the same switch row, it had to be wiring.

I reversed the 2 of the connectors that needed to come off to remove the mech. Put them back the right way, all is well

#9270 3 years ago

Im looking to buy used Hobbit and was wondering the counts per style or if we have that info? wondering if standard is the most rare like it is with DI and WOZ.
Standard E.
Limited E.
Smaug E.
Black arrow E.

#9271 3 years ago
Quoted from oropuro:

Im looking to buy used Hobbit and was wondering the counts per style or if we have that info? wondering if standard is the most rare like it is with DI and WOZ.
Standard E.
Limited E.
Smaug E.
Black arrow E.

The playfields are all the same.

The only difference is artwork that cant be seen in a line up.

Or a gold smaug head.

#9272 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The playfields are all the same.
The only difference is artwork that cant be seen in a line up.
Or a gold smaug head.

I think he is looking for the number made, and not the differences.

To my knowledge JJP has not released that information. For any of their pins, including Hobbit. (I could be wrong)

It might be fun to guess though

For Hobbit:
1. LE
2. SE
3. BE
4. Standard

For all JJP:

1. WOZ
2. Dialed In
3. Hobbit
4. Wonka
5. Pirates

I think GnR will take the 2nd spot soon - and maybe even beat out WOZ eventually.

#9273 3 years ago

It's in this thread. The limited to numbers anyway.

Black arrow was limited to 750, i don't remember the others off hand. Assumptions were that standard editions were probably the lowest produced.

#9274 3 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

It's in this thread. The limited to numbers anyway.
Black arrow was limited to 750, i don't remember the others off hand. Assumptions were that standard editions were probably the lowest produced.

I think the LE was 1500, and the Smaug would be as many as ordered before Jan 1, 2016 if I recall - or - you could convert your LE to SE if you preordered. You would think since the window to order the Smaug was fairly small it would have the fewest built, but I have a feeling they made less BA and Standard. Again....just a guess.

But the limits don't reveal how many were actually built.

#9275 3 years ago

Sounds right to me. It also makes it unimportant.

#9276 3 years ago

My apologies for not reading the entire thread, but can someone summarize the most common issues with this game? I’m supposed to be going to look at one in a few hours with a friend and I’d like to be prepared.

Just a quick list of “check this”, “this is a known issue”, etc.

Thanks!

#9277 3 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

My apologies for not reading the entire thread, but can someone summarize the most common issues with this game? I’m supposed to be going to look at one in a few hours with a friend and I’d like to be prepared.
Just a quick list of “check this”, “this is a known issue”, etc.
Thanks!

Check smaug head movement in tests
Check that all drop targets and beast mechanics work and aren't pinching wires

#9278 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeffswack:

Check smaug head movement in tests
Check that all drop targets and beast mechanics work and aren't pinching wires

And his mouth works, though I imagine by now many games will have issues with the mouth.

Ramp flaps curling is a know issue on earlier game. Easy fix, but a little time consuming. Wouldn’t be a deal breaker for me.

Not much else, game is very reliable.

#9279 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

And his mouth works, though I imagine by now many games will have issues with the mouth.
Ramp flaps curling is a know issue on earlier game. Easy fix, but a little time consuming. Wouldn’t be a deal breaker for me.
Not much else, game is very reliable.

Awesome. Thanks. I’m assuming there is a fix for the mouth / head issues? I saw some pictures of the ramp flaps while poking around.

#9280 3 years ago

Im thinking about buying a Hobbit and one of the things that come up in reviews is there are too many opportunities for multiball. Is there a way to reduce multiballs?

#9281 3 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

Im thinking about buying a Hobbit and one of the things that come up in reviews is there are too many opportunities for multiball. Is there a way to reduce multiballs?

Multiballs are what make this game the total rush that it is. Fewer multiballs would only be good if you are looking for a way to not want to play this machine.

#9282 3 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

Im thinking about buying a Hobbit and one of the things that come up in reviews is there are too many opportunities for multiball. Is there a way to reduce multiballs?

I honest to god don't understand this. Maybe my lock roll overs arent sensitive enough, because I wish I got more multiballs lol.

#9283 3 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

Im thinking about buying a Hobbit and one of the things that come up in reviews is there are too many opportunities for multiball. Is there a way to reduce multiballs?

There must be. My Feast only has one ball lately. Any ideas from anyone?

Can start the first multiball on my Deadpool with 2-3 flips for lil deadpool, few more flips for disco. Three good shots will get the ninja one too.

#9284 3 years ago

Unsolicited status update

I replaced my ramp assembly (5 broken welds on the original) and got a chance to install Chuck’s Bag End mod and Lior’s Book/Stand and Barrel Legs mods at the same time.

I’ve also been troubleshooting Smaug’s mouth and hoping it’s somehow related to my lights freezing since that’s all through the BAG board. I added a little counterbalancing rubber band to offset the weight of his mouth. That addition dramatically improved the mechanism’s performance. No freezes yet, but could be jinxing myself

175291D4-5E69-4E3E-930C-1AE543E50626 (resized).jpeg175291D4-5E69-4E3E-930C-1AE543E50626 (resized).jpeg Added over 3 years ago:

Two weeks later and the playfield lights freezing has not recurred. There may actually be a link between Smaug's mouth movement and that issue. Other folks have had other causes/fixes, though, so it's seems somewhat plausible that it could still just be related to removing him and re-installing him.

#9285 3 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

Im thinking about buying a Hobbit and one of the things that come up in reviews is there are too many opportunities for multiball. Is there a way to reduce multiballs?

Yep so you can set the lock roll overs to decay lit lock roll overs. I kept mine at the factory setting but removed the outlane posts. Game plays really well, when you have a long game you feel like you earned it. I think my average game time is under 4 min. Before I took the posts out I was getting through all the wizard modes pretty easily.

#9286 3 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

Yep so you can set the lock roll overs to decay lit lock roll overs. I kept mine at the factory setting but removed the outlane posts. Game plays really well, when you have a long game you feel like you earned it. I think my average game time is under 4 min. Before I took the posts out I was getting through all the wizard modes pretty easily.

Thanks!!

#9287 3 years ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

Unsolicited status update
I replaced my ramp assembly (5 broken welds on the original) and got a chance to install Chuck’s Bag End mod and Lior’s Book/Stand and Barrel Legs mods at the same time.
I’ve also been troubleshooting Smaug’s mouth and hoping it’s somehow related to my lights freezing since that’s all through the BAG board. I added a little counterbalancing rubber band to offset the weight of his mouth. That addition dramatically improved the mechanism’s performance. No freezes yet, but could be jinxing myself
[quoted image]

I was also thinking of getting the Bag End mod. Do you think it affects visibility into the pop bumpers area very much? That has been my main concern with getting it.

#9288 3 years ago
Quoted from GTO:

I was also thinking of getting the Bag End mod. Do you think it affects visibility into the pop bumpers area very much? That has been my main concern with getting it.

I would say not at all (see gamer's-eye view attached) - What it covers up is the transparent section of plastics and Dwalin's face on the playfield back there between the pops. You still see if the ball is coming straight back at you or out to the right flipper, so I'd call it 'just right' sized. Plus, Chuck was super cool to work with when the first one I ordered had an issue in shipping.

I'd really like for someone (other than me) to 'mod the mod' with model train foliage and such to make it more lush, but I digress

IMG_2373 (resized).jpgIMG_2373 (resized).jpg
#9289 3 years ago

So my Hobbit has been out of commission for about a month now. I have had the game since March, second owner, the game had about 100 plays on it when I got and has a little over 1000 now. Looking to see if anyone can help. Need a different set of eyes to see if they can catch something we didn't. I have spent about 10 hours troubleshooting this with different JJP tech support.

One day it was working fine, never had a problem with booting up or crashing mid game. They next day I go to turn it on the game doesnt boot correctly. The big lcd says no signal, the small book lcd turns blue and says VGA upside down, the playfield lights dont come on, nor does the topper lights. The IO board lights turn on, the amplifier board lights turn on, all the small boards mounted underneath the playfield lights turn on, the mother board fan comes on, as well as other power like the coin door lights.

Troubleshooting I did was got the multimeter out tested the voltage on the motherboard battery and the 12 pin connector seated on the mother board. They tested fine, 3 volts, 5 volts, and 12 volts all where they are supposed to be. Tried the jump start with a paperclip and didnt work(although mine has a wire basically built in as a jump start, pic below). Took off the big lcd screen and hooked the game up to a separate monitor which wouldn't boot. Reseated the long green chip on the motherboard(forgot the name of it). Basically reseated every connector in the backbox and bottom of the cabinet. Everything looked fine and nothing helped.

So I sent the motherboard into JPP since thats what they suggested. Said maybe it needed to be reflashed or the BIOS restored. JPP said the motherboard tested fine and there was nothing wrong with it. They sent it back, I put everything back together, booted it back up and still has the same problem. JPP mentioned it might be the power supply but I dont have a back up one to test. Although the 1st rep I worked with kind of ruled that out as the motherboard voltages were all reading right when we measured them with my multimeter.

So here I am asking for any suggestions. I am out of options other than calling back into JJP again to start troubleshooting anything we might have missed. Please help if you can think of anything. Thanks!

20200918_150132 (resized).jpg20200918_150132 (resized).jpg20200918_152317 (resized).jpg20200918_152317 (resized).jpg20200922_171141 (resized).jpg20200922_171141 (resized).jpg20200922_171206 (resized).jpg20200922_171206 (resized).jpg20200924_104120 (resized).jpg20200924_104120 (resized).jpg

#9290 3 years ago
Quoted from Antron77:

So my Hobbit has been out of commission for about a month now. I have had the game since March, second owner, the game had about 100 plays on it when I got and has a little over 1000 now. Looking to see if anyone can help. Need a different set of eyes to see if they can catch something we didn't. I have spent about 10 hours troubleshooting this with different JJP tech support.
One day it was working fine, never had a problem with booting up or crashing mid game. They next day I go to turn it on the game doesnt boot correctly. The big lcd says no signal, the small book lcd turns blue and says VGA upside down, the playfield lights dont come on, nor does the topper lights. The IO board lights turn on, the amplifier board lights turn on, all the small boards mounted underneath the playfield lights turn on, the mother board fan comes on, as well as other power like the coin door lights.
Troubleshooting I did was got the multimeter out tested the voltage on the motherboard battery and the 12 pin connector seated on the mother board. They tested fine, 3 volts, 5 volts, and 12 volts all where they are supposed to be. Tried the jump start with a paperclip and didnt work(although mine has a wire basically built in as a jump start, pic below). Took off the big lcd screen and hooked the game up to a separate monitor which wouldn't boot. Reseated the long green chip on the motherboard(forgot the name of it). Basically reseated every connector in the backbox and bottom of the cabinet. Everything looked fine and nothing helped.
So I sent the motherboard into JPP since thats what they suggested. Said maybe it needed to be reflashed or the BIOS restored. JPP said the motherboard tested fine and there was nothing wrong with it. They sent it back, I put everything back together, booted it back up and still has the same problem. JPP mentioned it might be the power supply but I dont have a back up one to test. Although the 1st rep I worked with kind of ruled that out as the motherboard voltages were all reading right when we measured them with my multimeter.
So here I am asking for any suggestions. I am out of options other than calling back into JJP again to start troubleshooting anything we might have missed. Please help if you can think of anything. Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You did the cmos clear step? Or maybe JJP did it?

Do you have an old pc you could just hook the mobo into? I have done that before. Sounds like a bad power supply to me. Mine went out on jjpotc. I replaced it with a spare I had for pc parts and it worked great.

#9291 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

You did the cmos clear step? Or maybe JJP did it?
Do you have an old pc you could just hook the mobo into? I have done that before. Sounds like a bad power supply to me. Mine went out on jjpotc. I replaced it with a spare I had for pc parts and it worked great.

Agreed, the next logical step would be the power supply at this point since the motherboard checked out good..

#9292 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

You did the cmos clear step? Or maybe JJP did it?
Do you have an old pc you could just hook the mobo into? I have done that before. Sounds like a bad power supply to me. Mine went out on jjpotc. I replaced it with a spare I had for pc parts and it worked great.

No I didn't clear the cmos, didn't know what that was until I Googled it. JJP didn't mention doing that either.

I don't have any pc parts laying around but I don't mind going out and buying a new power supply if thats what its going to take to get this up and running.

#9293 3 years ago

What is everyone's favorite shot in this game? I'm guessing the one to kill Smaug? For me it is the one to complete 3rd level of Into The Fire (shooting the captive ball for super jackpot right between the orc and goblin pop-ups).

#9294 3 years ago
Quoted from Antron77:

No I didn't clear the cmos, didn't know what that was until I Googled it. JJP didn't mention doing that either.
I don't have any pc parts laying around but I don't mind going out and buying a new power supply if thats what its going to take to get this up and running.

Man, I feel your pain. Mine was down for about two weeks because none of the playfield or GI lights were working. Made sure the mini USB was connected tightly, checked every connector a thousand times, checked voltages, ordered a new BAG board (didn't fix the issue), checked all the RGB boards, checked I/O board, and spoke with JJP support tech on the phone. It ended up just being the actual USB cable going bad. Replaced with a different mini-USB cable and everything was back to normal. I wasted so much time on that, but glad it was figured out. It was super frustrating.

JJP tech Ken Holland was amazing and spent a ton of time on the phone walking me though all possible issues. Awesome experience dealing with him. Hope your game is back in business soon!

#9295 3 years ago

One last issue I have, not the end of the world, but would like to fix it. Smaug gives me an error on startup. It rotates left and right and when it reaches near the end of its turn towards the ramps, it stutters and gives a movement error on diagnostics. Once I dismiss the error and start a game, Smaug will just stay facing the playfield (will not move left/right), but still does everything else well (lights, eyes, and jaw moves properly when speaking).

I manually moved him back and forth with the power off and notice that at the end of the turn (towards the center of the playfield), it seems to have some resistance. Feeling around, it seems like the back of his head is rubbing against the left ramp near the end of Smaug's turn. Anyone ever had an issue like that? Any recommendations on how to fix it?

#9296 3 years ago
Quoted from GTO:

One last issue I have, not the end of the world, but would like to fix it. Smaug gives me an error on startup. It rotates left and right and when it reaches near the end of its turn towards the ramps, it stutters and gives a movement error on diagnostics. Once I dismiss the error and start a game, Smaug will just stay facing the playfield (will not move left/right), but still does everything else well (lights, eyes, and jaw moves properly when speaking).
I manually moved him back and forth with the power off and notice that at the end of the turn (towards the center of the playfield), it seems to have some resistance. Feeling around, it seems like the back of his head is rubbing against the left ramp near the end of Smaug's turn. Anyone ever had an issue like that? Any recommendations on how to fix it?

I actually had this same issue. Back of head was rubbing against right wall of ramp. You can actually see some wear on the red paint. I just took a pair of pliers and bent the wall left some. It fixed the issue for me. It hasn't rubbed since and Smaug hasn't had any issues.

#9297 3 years ago

I love the bag end mod. Highly recommend.

#9298 3 years ago
Quoted from Antron77:

Troubleshooting I did was got the multimeter out tested the voltage on the motherboard battery and the 12 pin connector seated on the mother board. They tested fine, 3 volts, 5 volts, and 12 volts all where they are supposed to be. Tried the jump start with a paperclip and didnt work(although mine has a wire basically built in as a jump start, pic below). Took off the big lcd screen and hooked the game up to a separate monitor which wouldn't boot. Reseated the long green chip on the motherboard(forgot the name of it). Basically reseated every connector in the backbox and bottom of the cabinet. Everything looked fine and nothing helped.

Keep in mind, just because the power supply test good with a multimeter doesn't mean that it's good. I've seen multiple power supplies test fine with a power supply tester, but as soon as you throw a load on them they crap out.

I'd grab a new one for testing. You can just set it to the side and hook up the connectors in case that isn't the issue.

#9299 3 years ago
Quoted from Antron77:

I actually had this same issue. Back of head was rubbing against right wall of ramp. You can actually see some wear on the red paint. I just took a pair of pliers and bent the wall left some. It fixed the issue for me. It hasn't rubbed since and Smaug hasn't had any issues.

Thanks for the tip. I'll give this a try.

#9300 3 years ago
Quoted from GTO:

Thanks for the tip. I'll give this a try.

This was my issue as well...once it clears cleanly you wont have that issue at all.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
€ 69.00
Pinball Machine
Multiball mods
Pinball Machine
There are 12,956 posts in this topic. You are on page 186 of 260.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/186 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.