Lior just posted really detailed information on his amazing Hobbit Topper, in case anyone is interested in having their eyes drool for the next hour or so!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-journey-to-the-hobbit-topper

Could someone please tell me what the width of the back Box is for this machine? Thanks

28"

Wait - I thought the gold trim on the head was standard from the factory? I bought the pin on the secondary market. Hmmm - curious...

Smaug special editions have a gold head.

But you might be able to buy one.

Thry offered me one of each color when i bought my game.

I left it gold.

Hi guys seriously considering this game and had a general question about the code.

What is the general objective(s) of the game? I know there are 32 modes, but what is the incentive to complete them? What determines the order of the modes or the number of modes that need to be opened/completed? Are there inserts on the play field with wizard/mini wizard modes that completing modes lights?

Thanks

The objective is to go on an adventure!

Spend some time with the stream below. The game is a masterpiece.

Quicker answers:

Modes have difficulty ratings from 1 star to 5 stars. You need to have a mode finished as one of the qualifiers for the mini wizard modes (Into the Fire, Barrel Escape, Battle of the Five Armies)

1 Star = 0.25 value in the mini wizard
2 Star = 0.5 value
3 Star = 1x value
4 Star = 2x value
5 Star = 4x value

There are different qualifying objectives for different modes. ELF targets, MAN targets, DWARF targets, Bilbo ramp, Gandalf ramp, Radagast hole. When multiple modes are qualified you can shoot the left ramp to flip the book to different modes. The left ramp will be lit up with the word BOOK.

There are inserts for all three mini wizard modes at the lower section of the playfield.

Keep in mind that Modes are just 1/5th of the game really. You have to finish four other tasks to light a mini wizard mode. The game is crazy deep, it's like trying to solve a puzzle every time you play. Mine is bolted to the floor and never leaving.

What I feel like whenever I push the start button:

going on an adventure.gif

Have a few questions for you all.
I picked up a Black Arrow a few weeks back and noticed a few areas that need some attention.
Figured I'd ask if anyone on here has a solid solution before I start poking around.

#1 - losing the blue shading on the Mini monitor, everything has an amber tint.
Flickers back on from time to time but mostly stays off.
It's not a loose VGA cord that I can tell.

#2 - Inconsistent VUK kick out.
I've turned up the power in the settings and it works fine for a while but returns during long games.
I'm thinking the VUK itself might be a little loose as the previous owner recently replaced the coil sleeves and it works good a lot of the time.
Although it does appear quite solid and lined up correctly.
I haven't done the deep dive into it yet, having too much fun playing it!
I'm rather new to pinball ownership and looking forward to learning all the ticks and tricks.
Thanks for your help.

I have a Smaug Gold special edition, but my head trim is not gold.

It was an option.

You could order it with red if you wanted.

Install 12v fans on the coils like they did on LOTR.

Print a 3D carrier.
Plenty of 12v to tap into.

I've never had this problem. When you say long ball times, how long? A long game for me on Hobbit is maybe 30 minutes. I've had people over where the game has been played for hours non stop with no change.

How many games are on your machine? Perhaps it's time for a flipper rebuild.

If they are weak from the get go, I'd suspect the flipper leaf blade switches. I had one that just kept being a source of weak flipper.

LTG : )

First i've heard of it. Houdini is prone by all accounts, although i haven't noticed it on either.

What? Why? That's a generic statement that is totally not true with my machine.

Yes and no? If it's relatively short game and there's fade then no that's not normal at all. That's probably time for a flipper rebuild of some sort. However I've had a couple almost 2 hour long games and by god you absolutely do see flipper fade occurring. I don't add fans because by then my adrenaline is making my eye balls hurt and I'm ready for it to be over with anyway lol.

When I go on an adventure I usually play for 2 to 3 hours .
I've never noticed any Flipper fade .

I have noticed fade when the coils are super hot.

Fans help a lot.

I have had up to 3 hour games and never noticed any flipper fade

nogoodnames222 & KevInBuffalo tronlover - I've been troubleshooting with JJP's Jim S a very similar issue to one y'all described with my playfield lights freezing up randomly (in-game only; never during attract) and Smaug's mouth working intermittently. I unplugged the ethernet from Smaug based on @nogoodnames222's experience that seems to stop the lights from freezing (no failures after basically a full day of playing to try and re-create the failure and a new CG to boot...) I re-loaded the software and tried a different BAG to Smaug cable with the same symptom. So I suppose in my mind that might narrow the culprits down to:
1. The Smaug board/connections
2. The BAG board
3. Software 3.10 (seems unlikely given the number of people NOT having this issue, but perhaps it could be in conjunction with certain hardware versions - mine is LE built in Feb 2016, BAG board is p/n 15-0033-00 v.1.1).

What is the status of y'all's machines - got a most likely culprit in mind or suggestions if yours is fixed? Did y'all all first notice this on ver. 3.10 code? When I got my machine 2 weeks ago it had original code on it and I went straight to 3.10 so I have no idea if it would have behaved this way on earlier code...

THANKS!

After adding a rubber band to Smaug's mouth mechanism to counterbalance the weight of his jaw, the playfield lights don't freeze any more. It's been about two weeks of playing and have not been able to repeat the playfield lights freezing since I got Smaug's mouth working reliably with this rubber band "hack"... It's always possible the process of removing him and re-installing him fixed something as well, but none of his connectors had anything fishy going on that I could tell...

Kev fixed his with a new LED board. I think there are three of them. He swapped them around until he figured out which one was bad. You can find him in the Buffalo Pinball Discord for more details.

That does not seem fun haha

Just was able to trade my STrTH premium with UV for a Gold Smaug edition #38 with signed back glass and deed, hopefully it’s a great deal in all of your eyes anyways, was just wondering if it’s already been covered in these 182 pages, how many of this edition were produced?

TIA

Sounds like a bad BAG board.

Less than 750.

Yeah there were a few breaks involved in all of these games but yeah I have had many 2 and half hour to 3 hour games. Crazy stuff but only on Hobbit

Daaamn. I'm lucky to have 5 minute games.

Anyone have a left slingshot plastic to sell? Mine broke which leads to the question if there's anything to protect these slingshots? Appears to be an issue with the left one always breaking.

Not trying to be funny but I have had a lot of success with plastic protectors.
Another pinsider posted a picture with what looks like the protector installed over the plastic. I did that too until someone pointed out to me that the protectors go underneath the plastics.

Where are these breaking. Will a washer type protector work. Where does it need to go.
Thanks.

Generally the protectors go under the plastics.

Is there a way to reset the high scores on this machine?

Yes, its in the service menu

OK thanks. I couldn't find it but will look a bit harder. Seeing how far off I am from the previous owner's high scores makes me feel like a loser.

Full Menu -> Resets (Purple at bottom) -> Reset High Scores -> Hit Enter to Clear (Back to Factory Defaults)

By the way, I really like the JJP OS that they have for their pins. The software on JJP pins is really amazing. Top notch in fact

Looking forward to the next software update to allow wireless (if the rumor is true that is)

Got it now. Thanks. It was quite obvious. Not sure how I missed it! Yes. Its a great OS. Loving the technology in this machine.

to reset the high scores, use the green button on the front, then use the two buttons on the side many times to make the score higher and higher.

Once the score is higher than the existing score, let the ball drain and use the buttons on the side to enter your initials and then you won't see the old score, no more.

My lights freezing mid-game never returned after I replaced the BAG board. However, I did have *other* problems after that which I believe were due to a loose ground (or potentially a bad ethernet cable, replaced at the same time) so I can't say with 100% certainty that the BAG board was the cure. The first month with my game was incredibly frustrating (mainly cause this was my first big pinball purchase) but it's been relatively smooth sailing since then. Good luck getting your issue sorted.

They break at the middle point of the plastic where the armature is for the slingshot. Not 100% certain but might be a result of the armature hitting it.

Perfect! Lol

Anyone selling and want out of the club?

LOL!

Not a chance!

Yes, I've been there. I've learned to just do one change at a time and test. Simple stuff first.

My son (16) and I were playing Hobbit last night to see which one could get to Battle of the Five Armies. Neither of us did last night, and rarely do. We though it would be cool if Hobbit had a coop mode that allowed the players to continue trying to get as far as they could. Seems like this is the perfect game for that...

Any chance JJP will implement Co-Op in Hobbit?