(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

5 years ago


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#9051 1 year ago

Lior just posted really detailed information on his amazing Hobbit Topper, in case anyone is interested in having their eyes drool for the next hour or so!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-journey-to-the-hobbit-topper

#9052 1 year ago

Could someone please tell me what the width of the back Box is for this machine? Thanks

#9053 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Could someone please tell me what the width of the back Box is for this machine? Thanks

28"

#9054 1 year ago
Quoted from GTO:

Love the gold trim on the head of your Hobbit!

Wait - I thought the gold trim on the head was standard from the factory? I bought the pin on the secondary market. Hmmm - curious...

#9055 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Wait - I thought the gold trim on the head was standard from the factory? I bought the pin on the secondary market. Hmmm - curious...

Smaug special editions have a gold head.

But you might be able to buy one.

Thry offered me one of each color when i bought my game.

I left it gold.

#9056 1 year ago

Hi guys seriously considering this game and had a general question about the code.

What is the general objective(s) of the game? I know there are 32 modes, but what is the incentive to complete them? What determines the order of the modes or the number of modes that need to be opened/completed? Are there inserts on the play field with wizard/mini wizard modes that completing modes lights?

Thanks

#9057 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Hi guys seriously considering this game and had a general question about the code.
What is the general objective(s) of the game? I know there are 32 modes, but what is the incentive to complete them? What determines the order of the modes or the number of modes that need to be opened/completed? Are there inserts on the play field with wizard/mini wizard modes that completing modes lights?
Thanks

The objective is to go on an adventure!

#9058 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Hi guys seriously considering this game and had a general question about the code.
What is the general objective(s) of the game? I know there are 32 modes, but what is the incentive to complete them? What determines the order of the modes or the number of modes that need to be opened/completed? Are there inserts on the play field with wizard/mini wizard modes that completing modes lights?
Thanks

Spend some time with the stream below. The game is a masterpiece.

#9059 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Hi guys seriously considering this game and had a general question about the code.
What is the general objective(s) of the game? I know there are 32 modes, but what is the incentive to complete them? What determines the order of the modes or the number of modes that need to be opened/completed? Are there inserts on the play field with wizard/mini wizard modes that completing modes lights?
Thanks

Quicker answers:

Modes have difficulty ratings from 1 star to 5 stars. You need to have a mode finished as one of the qualifiers for the mini wizard modes (Into the Fire, Barrel Escape, Battle of the Five Armies)

1 Star = 0.25 value in the mini wizard
2 Star = 0.5 value
3 Star = 1x value
4 Star = 2x value
5 Star = 4x value

There are different qualifying objectives for different modes. ELF targets, MAN targets, DWARF targets, Bilbo ramp, Gandalf ramp, Radagast hole. When multiple modes are qualified you can shoot the left ramp to flip the book to different modes. The left ramp will be lit up with the word BOOK.

There are inserts for all three mini wizard modes at the lower section of the playfield.

Keep in mind that Modes are just 1/5th of the game really. You have to finish four other tasks to light a mini wizard mode. The game is crazy deep, it's like trying to solve a puzzle every time you play. Mine is bolted to the floor and never leaving.

11
#9060 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The objective is to go on an adventure!

What I feel like whenever I push the start button:

going on an adventure.gif
#9061 1 year ago

Have a few questions for you all.
I picked up a Black Arrow a few weeks back and noticed a few areas that need some attention.
Figured I'd ask if anyone on here has a solid solution before I start poking around.

#1 - losing the blue shading on the Mini monitor, everything has an amber tint.
Flickers back on from time to time but mostly stays off.
It's not a loose VGA cord that I can tell.

#2 - Inconsistent VUK kick out.
I've turned up the power in the settings and it works fine for a while but returns during long games.
I'm thinking the VUK itself might be a little loose as the previous owner recently replaced the coil sleeves and it works good a lot of the time.
Although it does appear quite solid and lined up correctly.
I haven't done the deep dive into it yet, having too much fun playing it!
I'm rather new to pinball ownership and looking forward to learning all the ticks and tricks.
Thanks for your help.

#9062 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Smaug special editions have a gold head.
But you might be able to buy one.
Thry offered me one of each color when i bought my game.
I left it gold.

I have a Smaug Gold special edition, but my head trim is not gold.

#9063 1 year ago
Quoted from GTO:

I have a Smaug Gold special edition, but my head trim is not gold.

It was an option.

You could order it with red if you wanted.

#9064 1 year ago

Ok.... so the flipper fade / weakness is real bad on this machine. So, many multiballs, and such long ball-times, one would expect this issue...

I am assuming others have experienced it too.... Any pointers / cheats to make it better?
I always wondered if there was some type of graphite lubricant you could put inside the coil sleeve to "Help..." (Thinking back to my boyscout days...)

Maybe just replace the flipper coils and be done with it...? But still, likely will have fade during play. If it was just LESS BAD I would really be happy...
I have adjusted the flipper power. Prior to this, after "INTO THE FIRE" the flippers were so weak you could almost not play any longer.
So, I increased the power & it's much better. But as you get into Barrell Escape / and Battle of the Five Armies - the fade is terrible.

#9065 1 year ago
Quoted from RhettDR:

Ok.... so the flipper fade / weakness is real bad on this machine. So, many multiballs, and such long ball-times, one would expect this issue...
I am assuming others have experienced it too.... Any pointers / cheats to make it better?
I always wondered if there was some type of graphite lubricant you could put inside the coil sleeve to "Help..." (Thinking back to my boyscout days...)
Maybe just replace the flipper coils and be done with it...? But still, likely will have fade during play. If it was just LESS BAD I would really be happy...
I have adjusted the flipper power. Prior to this, after "INTO THE FIRE" the flippers were so weak you could almost not play any longer.
So, I increased the power & it's much better. But as you get into Barrell Escape / and Battle of the Five Armies - the fade is terrible.

Install 12v fans on the coils like they did on LOTR.

Print a 3D carrier.
Plenty of 12v to tap into.

#9066 1 year ago
Quoted from RhettDR:

Ok.... so the flipper fade / weakness is real bad on this machine. So, many multiballs, and such long ball-times, one would expect this issue...
I am assuming others have experienced it too.... Any pointers / cheats to make it better?
I always wondered if there was some type of graphite lubricant you could put inside the coil sleeve to "Help..." (Thinking back to my boyscout days...)
Maybe just replace the flipper coils and be done with it...? But still, likely will have fade during play. If it was just LESS BAD I would really be happy...
I have adjusted the flipper power. Prior to this, after "INTO THE FIRE" the flippers were so weak you could almost not play any longer.
So, I increased the power & it's much better. But as you get into Barrell Escape / and Battle of the Five Armies - the fade is terrible.

I've never had this problem. When you say long ball times, how long? A long game for me on Hobbit is maybe 30 minutes. I've had people over where the game has been played for hours non stop with no change.

How many games are on your machine? Perhaps it's time for a flipper rebuild.

#9067 1 year ago
Quoted from RhettDR:

Ok.... so the flipper fade / weakness is real bad on this machine. So, many multiballs, and such long ball-times, one would expect this issue...

If they are weak from the get go, I'd suspect the flipper leaf blade switches. I had one that just kept being a source of weak flipper.

LTG : )

#9068 1 year ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

I've never had this problem. When you say long ball times, how long? A long game for me on Hobbit is maybe 30 minutes. I've had people over where the game has been played for hours non stop with no change.
How many games are on your machine? Perhaps it's time for a flipper rebuild.

That's interesting.... I have even watched some youtube vids of ppl playing Hobbit and they complain about it as well.

#9069 1 year ago

First i've heard of it. Houdini is prone by all accounts, although i haven't noticed it on either.

#9070 1 year ago
Quoted from RhettDR:

so the flipper fade / weakness is real bad on this machine

What? Why? That's a generic statement that is totally not true with my machine.

#9071 1 year ago
Quoted from Bendit:

What? Why? That's a generic statement that is totally not true with my machine.

Yes and no? If it's relatively short game and there's fade then no that's not normal at all. That's probably time for a flipper rebuild of some sort. However I've had a couple almost 2 hour long games and by god you absolutely do see flipper fade occurring. I don't add fans because by then my adrenaline is making my eye balls hurt and I'm ready for it to be over with anyway lol.

#9072 1 year ago

When I go on an adventure I usually play for 2 to 3 hours .
I've never noticed any Flipper fade .

#9073 1 year ago
Quoted from BazilBLast:

When I go on an adventure I usually play for 2 to 3 hours .
I've never noticed any Flipper fade .

I have noticed fade when the coils are super hot.

Fans help a lot.

#9074 1 year ago

I have had up to 3 hour games and never noticed any flipper fade

#9075 1 year ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

For anyone following along with my saga, new BAG board did not resolve the random LED + Smaug issues. Not sure where to go from here. I've reseated all BAG board connections (obviously), all Smaug connections, all "bulk head" (back of PC box) connections. Anything else that could be causing these constantly-changing light problems? Or is there anyone in the Midwest that wants a good deal on a Hobbit? (It was working great 3 weeks ago )
Losing my patience with this thing.
Edit: Unplugged the ethernet from Smaug and having better luck now, the game is playable again! I had tried this before, so it may have been a combination of BAG board + Smaug? We'll see, just very excited about being able to play my first full game in a while on it, needed a reminder of how fun the game is (even if this is short lived).

nogoodnames222 & KevInBuffalo tronlover - I've been troubleshooting with JJP's Jim S a very similar issue to one y'all described with my playfield lights freezing up randomly (in-game only; never during attract) and Smaug's mouth working intermittently. I unplugged the ethernet from Smaug based on nogoodnames222's experience that seems to stop the lights from freezing (no failures after basically a full day of playing to try and re-create the failure and a new CG to boot...) I re-loaded the software and tried a different BAG to Smaug cable with the same symptom. So I suppose in my mind that might narrow the culprits down to:
1. The Smaug board/connections
2. The BAG board
3. Software 3.10 (seems unlikely given the number of people NOT having this issue, but perhaps it could be in conjunction with certain hardware versions - mine is LE built in Feb 2016, BAG board is p/n 15-0033-00 v.1.1).

What is the status of y'all's machines - got a most likely culprit in mind or suggestions if yours is fixed? Did y'all all first notice this on ver. 3.10 code? When I got my machine 2 weeks ago it had original code on it and I went straight to 3.10 so I have no idea if it would have behaved this way on earlier code...

THANKS!

Added 15 months ago:

After adding a rubber band to Smaug's mouth mechanism to counterbalance the weight of his jaw, the playfield lights don't freeze any more. It's been about two weeks of playing and have not been able to repeat the playfield lights freezing since I got Smaug's mouth working reliably with this rubber band "hack"... It's always possible the process of removing him and re-installing him fixed something as well, but none of his connectors had anything fishy going on that I could tell...

#9076 1 year ago

Kev fixed his with a new LED board. I think there are three of them. He swapped them around until he figured out which one was bad. You can find him in the Buffalo Pinball Discord for more details.

#9077 1 year ago
Quoted from SLRage:

I have had up to 3 hour games and never noticed any flipper fade

That does not seem fun haha

#9078 1 year ago

Just was able to trade my STrTH premium with UV for a Gold Smaug edition #38 with signed back glass and deed, hopefully it’s a great deal in all of your eyes anyways, was just wondering if it’s already been covered in these 182 pages, how many of this edition were produced?

TIA

#9079 1 year ago
Quoted from Trumpanche:

nogoodnames222 & kevinbuffalo tronlover - I've been troubleshooting with JJP's Jim S a very similar issue to one y'all described with my playfield lights freezing up randomly (in-game only; never during attract) and Smaug's mouth working intermittently. I unplugged the ethernet from Smaug based on nogoodnames222's experience that seems to stop the lights from freezing (no failures after basically a full day of playing to try and re-create the failure and a new CG to boot...) I re-loaded the software and tried a different BAG to Smaug cable with the same symptom. So I suppose in my mind that might narrow the culprits down to:
1. The Smaug board/connections
2. The BAG board
3. Software 3.10 (seems unlikely given the number of people NOT having this issue, but perhaps it could be in conjunction with certain hardware versions - mine is LE built in Feb 2016, BAG board is p/n 15-0033-00 v.1.1).
What is the status of y'all's machines - got a most likely culprit in mind or suggestions if yours is fixed? Did y'all all first notice this on ver. 3.10 code? When I got my machine 2 weeks ago it had original code on it and I went straight to 3.10 so I have no idea if it would have behaved this way on earlier code...
THANKS!

Sounds like a bad BAG board.

#9080 1 year ago
Quoted from jhngh41:

Just was able to trade my STrTH premium with UV for a Gold Smaug edition #38 with signed back glass and deed, hopefully it’s a great deal in all of your eyes anyways, was just wondering if it’s already been covered in these 182 pages, how many of this edition were produced?
TIA

Less than 750.

#9081 1 year ago
Quoted from wolv3:

That does not seem fun haha

Yeah there were a few breaks involved in all of these games but yeah I have had many 2 and half hour to 3 hour games. Crazy stuff but only on Hobbit

#9082 1 year ago
Quoted from SLRage:

Yeah there were a few breaks involved in all of these games but yeah I have had many 2 and half hour to 3 hour games. Crazy stuff but only on Hobbit

Daaamn. I'm lucky to have 5 minute games.

#9083 1 year ago

Anyone have a left slingshot plastic to sell? Mine broke which leads to the question if there's anything to protect these slingshots? Appears to be an issue with the left one always breaking.

#9084 1 year ago

Not trying to be funny but I have had a lot of success with plastic protectors.
Another pinsider posted a picture with what looks like the protector installed over the plastic. I did that too until someone pointed out to me that the protectors go underneath the plastics.

#9085 1 year ago
Quoted from meSz:

Anyone have a left slingshot plastic to sell? Mine broke which leads to the question if there's anything to protect these slingshots? Appears to be an issue with the left one always breaking.

Where are these breaking. Will a washer type protector work. Where does it need to go.
Thanks.

#9086 1 year ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Not trying to be funny but I have had a lot of success with plastic protectors.
Another pinsider posted a picture with what looks like the protector installed over the plastic. I did that too until someone pointed out to me that the protectors go underneath the plastics.

Generally the protectors go under the plastics.

#9087 1 year ago

Is there a way to reset the high scores on this machine?

#9088 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

Is there a way to reset the high scores on this machine?

Yes, its in the service menu

#9089 1 year ago

OK thanks. I couldn't find it but will look a bit harder. Seeing how far off I am from the previous owner's high scores makes me feel like a loser.

#9090 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

OK thanks. I couldn't find it but will look a bit harder. Seeing how far off I am from the previous owner's high scores makes me feel like a loser.

Full Menu -> Resets (Purple at bottom) -> Reset High Scores -> Hit Enter to Clear (Back to Factory Defaults)

By the way, I really like the JJP OS that they have for their pins. The software on JJP pins is really amazing. Top notch in fact

Looking forward to the next software update to allow wireless (if the rumor is true that is)

#9091 1 year ago

Got it now. Thanks. It was quite obvious. Not sure how I missed it! Yes. Its a great OS. Loving the technology in this machine.

#9092 1 year ago

to reset the high scores, use the green button on the front, then use the two buttons on the side many times to make the score higher and higher.

Once the score is higher than the existing score, let the ball drain and use the buttons on the side to enter your initials and then you won't see the old score, no more.

#9093 1 year ago
Quoted from Trumpanche:

nogoodnames222 & kevinbuffalo tronlover - I've been troubleshooting with JJP's Jim S a very similar issue to one y'all described with my playfield lights freezing up randomly (in-game only; never during attract) and Smaug's mouth working intermittently. I unplugged the ethernet from Smaug based on nogoodnames222's experience that seems to stop the lights from freezing (no failures after basically a full day of playing to try and re-create the failure and a new CG to boot...) I re-loaded the software and tried a different BAG to Smaug cable with the same symptom. So I suppose in my mind that might narrow the culprits down to:
1. The Smaug board/connections
2. The BAG board
3. Software 3.10 (seems unlikely given the number of people NOT having this issue, but perhaps it could be in conjunction with certain hardware versions - mine is LE built in Feb 2016, BAG board is p/n 15-0033-00 v.1.1).
What is the status of y'all's machines - got a most likely culprit in mind or suggestions if yours is fixed? Did y'all all first notice this on ver. 3.10 code? When I got my machine 2 weeks ago it had original code on it and I went straight to 3.10 so I have no idea if it would have behaved this way on earlier code...
THANKS!

My lights freezing mid-game never returned after I replaced the BAG board. However, I did have *other* problems after that which I believe were due to a loose ground (or potentially a bad ethernet cable, replaced at the same time) so I can't say with 100% certainty that the BAG board was the cure. The first month with my game was incredibly frustrating (mainly cause this was my first big pinball purchase) but it's been relatively smooth sailing since then. Good luck getting your issue sorted.

#9094 1 year ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

Where are these breaking. Will a washer type protector work. Where does it need to go.
Thanks.

They break at the middle point of the plastic where the armature is for the slingshot. Not 100% certain but might be a result of the armature hitting it.

#9095 1 year ago
Quoted from punkin:

to reset the high scores, use the green button on the front, then use the two buttons on the side many times to make the score higher and higher.
Once the score is higher than the existing score, let the ball drain and use the buttons on the side to enter your initials and then you won't see the old score, no more.

Perfect! Lol

#9096 1 year ago

Anyone selling and want out of the club?

#9097 1 year ago
Quoted from punkin:

to reset the high scores, use the green button on the front, then use the two buttons on the side many times to make the score higher and higher.
Once the score is higher than the existing score, let the ball drain and use the buttons on the side to enter your initials and then you won't see the old score, no more.

LOL!

#9098 1 year ago
Quoted from oropuro:

Anyone selling and want out of the club?

Not a chance!

#9099 1 year ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

My lights freezing mid-game never returned after I replaced the BAG board. However, I did have *other* problems after that which I believe were due to a loose ground (or potentially a bad ethernet cable, replaced at the same time) so I can't say with 100% certainty that the BAG board was the cure. The first month with my game was incredibly frustrating (mainly cause this was my first big pinball purchase) but it's been relatively smooth sailing since then. Good luck getting your issue sorted.

Yes, I've been there. I've learned to just do one change at a time and test. Simple stuff first.

#9100 1 year ago

My son (16) and I were playing Hobbit last night to see which one could get to Battle of the Five Armies. Neither of us did last night, and rarely do. We though it would be cool if Hobbit had a coop mode that allowed the players to continue trying to get as far as they could. Seems like this is the perfect game for that...

Any chance JJP will implement Co-Op in Hobbit?

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