Jefferson, NJ
I’ve tried tape and even a strong magnet. It’s in tight and I don’t see how it could slide out.
(Topic ID: 155578)
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The Hobbit
Jersey Jack, 2016
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Quoted from LTG:Can you put a piece of tape on it to grab it and slide it out ?
LTG : )
Butch did a video or a detailed write up on this if I’m not mistaken. Sounded weird to use tape, but in fact it worked well.
If you're talking about the CMOS battery on the mobo, I don't think anything negative will happen if it dies. Your clock will reset but I can't think of anything else. I could be wrong though.
Quoted from bbulkley:If you're talking about the CMOS battery on the mobo, I don't think anything negative will happen if it dies. Your clock will reset but I can't think of anything else. I could be wrong though.
Thanks but if the battery dies you will lose high scores and settings.
Quoted from Vyzer2:Thanks but if the battery dies you will lose high scores and settings.
Aren't those on the hard drive ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Vyzer2:Thanks LTG and Lermods. I’ve tried 4 different types of tape, tape just comes off. I could take it out if I shut the game and not worry about creating a short. Want to try and keep settings and high scores.
Scores and settings are written to disk, not stored in volatile memory like an older machine. That said, a dead battery will reset your BIOS settings which will require some tweaking if you're not familiar with modern PC's.
Ok learned something new. I always thought you needed to have the machine on when removing a battery. Well never had to reset a bios, but may have to learn that one.
So if I shut the machine off and take the battery out, will I lose the bios settings ( guess so).
Quoted from bbulkley:Scores and settings are written to disk, not stored in volatile memory like an older machine. That said, a dead battery will reset your BIOS settings which will require some tweaking if you're not familiar with modern PC's.
I'm pretty sure that if the battery dies you need to connect a keyboard to provide the necessary input <enter> etc neceessary to boot the machine. This should go away after the first boot once the battery has been replaced.
Here is a post in the WOZ thread regarding this issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/197#post-5456002
Quoted from Vyzer2:will I lose the bios settings
I believe you lose the one about turning on or powering up right.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:I believe you lose the one about turning on or powering up right.
LTG : )
Yes, you want to replace the battery while the system is on!
From the manual: "However, in order to preserve the CPU’s BIOS settings, the change must be made while the game is powered on."
Why are you replacing the coin battery? These last a very long time.
No, the scores are not kept because of the BIOS coin battery. All game data is kept on the hard drive of the computer that's in your machine.
The motherboard coin battery only keeps the BIOS settings.
Yes, a motherboard can work even if the coin battery is dead. The motherboard will fall in default mode every time it boots though. So if the game requires BIOS settings that are not default, you will have to change these settings at every boot. And yes, the clock will also reset every single time.
I've had motherboards that are 15 years old, and the coin battery is still operational. I don't understand the obsession in changing this battery.
It's a super cheap thing to replace, and battery life depends on use. A typical PC is always hooked to power so the battery is hardly ever used. A pin might be disconnected from power all the time, in which case the battery can easily wear out in 5 years.
Quoted from Bendit:Why are you replacing the coin battery? These last a very long time.
No, the scores are not kept because of the BIOS coin battery. All game data is kept on the hard drive of the computer that's in your machine.
The motherboard coin battery only keeps the BIOS settings.
Yes, a motherboard can work even if the coin battery is dead. The motherboard will fall in default mode every time it boots though. So if the game requires BIOS settings that are not default, you will have to change these settings at every boot. And yes, the clock will also reset every single time.
I've had motherboards that are 15 years old, and the coin battery is still operational. I don't understand the obsession in changing this battery.
Preventive maintenance, it’s a rainy day and I have a cr2032 battery lying around.
We will see how long the original battery lasts. Now going to wipe the blood off my finger from that pesky fan.
Woolgoolga
Quoted from Bendit:Yes! I own the extended blu-rays. It's certainly a must to watch them indeed! All 3 movies have extended scenes that are worth watching, from the market scene where Bilbo buys his dinner trout, to the Goblin Town King song, to the rolling chariots with automatic crossbows! The extended dialog with Beorn is also great, as it explains why he ends up participating in the final battle.
Edit: Oh, and let's not forget the actual fight between the Elves and the dwarves from the iron hills. The dwarves have clever machines that stop arrows in mid-flight. Fantastic.
Just picked up a JJP Black Arrow last weekend.
I've got all the original 3d Blu-rays (non extended) from the intial release, haven't watched them in years.
Seems the Extended Editions have a bunch more content, I definitely want to see everything now that I own the pin.
Was looking at the EE Blu-ray Trilogy, it's around $60.
then I saw this...Might wait a few months, I've got the 4K HDR player already.
I use one of those dental pic tools that you can buy at Harbor Freight or off of Amazon. It doesn't take much to lift the battery, it just needs something small to get in.
Quoted from dabear007:I've got all the original 3d Blu-rays (non extended) from the intial release
Yeah, the extended footage can be a little cheesy, but it does fill in nicely. It's worth it if you're a fan.
Quoted from Bendit:Yeah, the extended footage can be a little cheesy, but it does fill in nicely. It's worth it if you're a fan.
I think the only thing that's really cheesy is the "down in Goblin town" song. Everything else either adds some humor and/or fills in part of the story. Great example is the RAMS they ride. It always bothered me where in the hell they came from or wondering why Biffers axe was missing from his head at the end.
Quoted from CLEllison:I think the only thing that's really cheesy is the "down in Goblin town" song. Everything else either adds some humor and/or fills in part of the story. Great example is the RAMS they ride. It always bothered me where in the hell they came from or wondering why Biffers axe was missing from his head at the end.
I'm sure you're familiar with this, but I always felt that song was an homage to the stellar soundtrack in the Bakshi version.
In case you don't own it already!
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/the-hobbit-deluxe-edition-dvd-1977/6131643.p?skuId=6131643
Quoted from BazilBLast:I have been wondering about changing the battery but I've been putting it off .
wesman did it a while ago . Now it's been brought up maybe he might share some tips on how to go about it .
[quoted image]
I read the same info sources and suggestions. The tape took a good amount of tries, and I also tried flicking it up and out with my finger, along with tape. Took a few minutes, and yeah....beware that cpu fan!
Here is a shameless plug for the barrel legs from Lior:
They look great and are super easy to install.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-the-hobbit-sculpted-pinball-mods-by-the-art-of-pinball
While doing some other work on my Hobbit, I noticed a sling plastic still had the clear film underneath. It was dirty, yellowed, and peeling. Once I took it off the art was significantly brighter and clearer.
It turned out almost all of the plastics on my machine still had the film!
Is this a known thing with Hobbit, or did someone just have an off day at the factory when they made mine? 
Quoted from bbulkley:someone just have an off day at the factory when they made mine?
The assembly line people often are not pinball people. Just workers.
So this slipped through and didn't get spotted.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:The assembly line people often are not pinball people. Just workers.
So this slipped through and didn't get spotted.
LTG : )
To be clear, I'm not at all bothered. It was a nice surprise for me because it made the game feel shiny and new again. Other owners might want to take a look at their plastics.
Might anyone know for sure what brand/color powder coat came on the bronze vein armored LE?
Perhaps this one? https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/EVS-4485/us-penny-vein
Added over 4 years ago:Working with Matt at Back Alley Creations, he's confident it's actually Tiger brand - “Copper Hybrid antique/vein 09/90180"
Added over 3 years ago:It was definitely NOT Tiger brand. Matt at Back Alley sent me a coin door with that color. Completely wrong "texture" - the grain/vein was too fine. I'm still thinking it's likely to be that Prismatic Penny Vein... need someone (else) to try it....
Quoted from bbulkley:While doing some other work on my Hobbit, I noticed a sling plastic still had the clear film underneath. It was dirty, yellowed, and peeling. Once I took it off the art was significantly brighter and clearer.
It turned out almost all of the plastics on my machine still had the film!
Is this a known thing with Hobbit, or did someone just have an off day at the factory when they made mine?
Mine was also like that. First run LE #866. Found it when I installed Titan rings and clear plastic protectors. Looked 1000 times better after.
Quoted from bbulkley:To be clear, I'm not at all bothered
No pun intended 
Quoted from truthdivides:The right barrel pop bumper has come off the lower post. The screw comes straight in and out. What do I need to do to replace the post, and do you happen to know what part that post is?
Page C-37 in the manual right jump bumper item #3 94-1406-16 1/4"X1" Hex Spacer
You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com - under Support - under Downloads - under Hobbit.
LTG : )
Quoted from GTO:For those of you with Hobbits at home, how do they do with casual players? Kids?
Just got ours yesterday and kids (3-6-9) LOVe it. Light/floaty, rare outer lane draining, amazing color lights and art, call outs and scenes, lots of multiballs and pop up bad dudes. Can be pure fun or you can go deep if more experienced. 9 yr old over 1million already..
Quoted from moat-pin:Just got ours yesterday and kids (3-6-9) LOVe it. Light/floaty, rare outer lane draining, amazing color lights and art, call outs and scenes, lots of multiballs and pop up bad dudes. Can be pure fun or you can go deep if more experienced. 9 yr old over 1million already..
[quoted image]
Congrats on getting an awesome game!
Set the playfield pitch to between 7.1 and 7.2.
Game should not be floaty.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Set the playfield pitch to between 7.1 and 7.2.
I was gonna say it, but I'm glad the Pitch Master tagged in instead...! 
Quoted from pinballinreno:Congrats on getting an awesome game!
Set the playfield pitch to between 7.1 and 7.2.
Game should not be floaty.
Picking one up next weekend. What should I set flipper power to in order to still make ramps consistently at that pitch?
TIA
Quoted from GTO:Picking one up next weekend. What should I set flipper power to in order to still make ramps consistently at that pitch?
TIA
You should be able to make either ramp from either flipper from a cradled position.
The ball should make the ramp easily but slow at the top and then roll down the wireform on either direction.
Quoted from GTO:Picking one up next weekend. What should I set flipper power to in order to still make ramps consistently at that pitch?
TIA
I'm only 1 point above stock on the left. Right is still stock. Backhands from a trap only, not on the fly. Should just make it around from a trap.
Quoted from GTO:Picking one up next weekend. What should I set flipper power to in order to still make ramps consistently at that pitch?
TIA
The main problem you'll run into after raising the pitch is finding the happy medium of flipper power (specifically the right flipper). Trying to set the power to make the ball at a cradled position but then a clean shot to the left side of the ramp will result in balls flying off the hobbit trail right at the curve. I had to bend the Hobbit trail just a tad to eliminate the flying ball syndrome.
The left flipper issue comes when a nice clean shot to the right side of the ramp when starting a mode. It's not a deal breaker but more of an annoyance. The ball "can" come off the rail and roll down on the wood rail. Your machine will likely have the bumper fix installed so the ball ends up dropping into the windlance anyway.
My first Hobbit had spring steel ramp flaps where my second has stainless flaps. The spring steel resulted in a far more energetic movement around the rear ramp bends. As the spring steel settled in, ie bent with ball entrances it became far more difficult to backhand. I had to use Velcro on the bends to slow the ball to stop it bouncing out of the lock side habitrail if a normal shot is hit, while still being able to make the backhand on that flipper setting.
The stainless flaps have settled in shape with hits, the bend is greater but the backhand is easier at a lower flipper setting. Both became harder to backhand as they settled in.
The photo is the stainless flaps. The bend has lifted the flaps from the pf but it plays far better.
23AC7D2E-80CB-4AC9-ACEB-00C474CDAEF0 (resized).jpeg
Surrey, BC
Looks like the welding on the left ramp of my black arrow broke. Anyone have a similar issue and can recommend a fix? I'm definitely not a welder. 
Could JB Weld fix this? I don't imagine there's a lot of pressure on the ramp but could be wrong.
Also, I noticed below the green thing there is a small board with only one screw that is fairly loose. Should that have 2 screws and be tight?
Thanks!
20200905_164750 (resized).jpgreceived_334446274273429 (resized).jpegreceived_365250534860916 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from TOLLS:My first Hobbit had spring steel ramp flaps where my second has stainless flaps. The spring steel resulted in a far more energetic movement around the rear ramp bends. As the spring steel settled in, ie bent with ball entrances it became far more difficult to backhand. I had to use Velcro on the bends to slow the ball to stop it bouncing out of the lock side habitrail if a normal shot is hit, while still being able to make the backhand on that flipper setting.
The stainless flaps have settled in shape with hits, the bend is greater but the backhand is easier at a lower flipper setting. Both became harder to backhand as they settled in.
The photo is the stainless flaps. The bend has lifted the flaps from the pf but it plays far better. [quoted image]
The silver flaps are original.
Ultimately the raise up and block the ball.
The black flaps are the upgrade.
Way better and will last years.
Quoted from CLEllison:The ball "can" come off the rail and roll down on the wood rail. Your machine will likely have the bumper fix installed so the ball ends up dropping into the windlance anyway.
I still had it get caught on the left habitrail ball trap bumper fix one time.
Quoted from Dreadreaper:Looks like the welding on the left ramp of my black arrow broke. Anyone have a similar issue and can recommend a fix?
I would take it to a welding shop to do it right. JB weld probably won't hold. I have tried solder in the past and it didn't hold (on my F-14 launch lane habitrail).
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:I would take it to a welding shop to do it right. JB weld probably won't hold. I have tried solder in the past and it didn't hold (on my F-14 launch lane habitrail).
I just applied the JB weld we will see if she holds. If not I'll take it to get welded.... or apply zap straps lol.
Quoted from Dreadreaper:I just applied the JB weld we will see if she holds. If not I'll take it to get welded.... or apply zap straps lol.
A quick weld would be fast and chesp.
Id do that.
Jb weld will not work well or last.
But it will look like crap....
Im into the kirkland scotch again...
Cheers!
Quoted from pinballinreno:A quick weld would be fast and chesp.
Id do that.
Jb weld will not work well or last.
But it will look like crap....
Im into the kirkland scotch again...
Cheers!
What's the Kirkland Scotch snack to go along with..? You take that stuff neat or on the rocks?
Quoted from wesman:What's the Kirkland Scotch snack to go along with..? You take that stuff neat or on the rocks?
On the rocks with a liberal splash of filtered water.
Snacks range from popcorn to blistered padron and shishito peppers with sea salt and lemon...
Tapa's, so good lol.
I grow them in my garden
Quoted from Dreadreaper:I just applied the JB weld we will see if she holds. If not I'll take it to get welded.... or apply zap straps lol.
Here's how the zip ties worked for my temporary 'fix' to the diverter interference issue.
IMG_2174 (resized).jpgIMG_2177 (resized).jpgIMG_2179 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:You should be able to make either ramp from either flipper from a cradled position.
The ball should make the ramp easily but slow at the top and then roll down the wireform on either direction.
My left and right flippers are set at 22 -standard , the ball flies around and only very occasionally comes off the habit trails . Plays fast and great .
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