I think confused is the right way to say it. I know a great, innovative and intense pinball machine when I play one. It really does take a lot of TLC and patience to get this machine 100% dialed in and properly maintained. That’s not going to happen on location so.....bad impressions abound!

I don't remember what I had mine set to, but the stock leg adjusters set to max weren't enough. I had to place ~.5" thick wooden blocks under the rear legs. It played great.

Lower your front legs all the way first

I also had to do that. Front leg levelers are all the way in. I could get there without the blocks but didn't feel there was enough thread left in the back legs when set that way. Added the blocks and now have plenty of thread all the way through the leg.

Same, I ensure full thread engagement with 1 thread exposed. It just wasn't enough without the wood (back arrow edition).

I had a couple threads left over on each side. Differences in floors I guess. Now I know not to move it!

Hi guys! Recently joined the club and the machine has a few issues:

1. (M)an drop target does not fire during coil test. Shows as issue during test report. I assume replace coil?
2. E(l)f drop target sometimes comes up, sometimes doesnt during gameplay. I assume it only comes up during FULL drop bank reset. DOES fire during coil test, but drop target just wiggles. I assume adjust nylon screw? Any other tips on this one?
3. D(w)arf drop target does not fire during coil test. Shows as issue during test report. I assume replace coil?
4. Left VUK only kicks the ball over about 50% of the time. I assume increase coil strength in settings?
5. All the coil sleeves seem dirty for the drop targets. Should I replace all of them?
6. Is the shaker motor supposed to go off during Ball lock 1/2/3 for smaug? I noticed it doesn't fire during 2/3, but I thought it did when i played on location. Maybe different firmware? Location was 1.31 I am on 3.10. Shaker is set to "high" not "extreme".
7. Orc monster target broken off and previous owner "repaired" with rubber band. I have a replacement orc head - I assume just remove screws/wires from under playfield and lift it out from the top? Also have that loctite blue stuff to apply to screws for it.

Bonus issue: Previous owner was playing with black arrow captive ball as part of their 5 balls! Ha!

Thanks all and I am very excited to be joining you on this adventure

Best way to test the drop targets is to move the connector to a target you know works. If problem remains it’s a connection or mechanical issue. If problem corrects itself when you switch connector but now the other target you plugged in doesn’t work, it’s a board issue.

Omg just went to inspect the fuses and saw THE CPU FAN/HEAT SINK HAD BROKEN OFF THE CPU!!!! Absolute miracle the CPU didn't fry. I suppose I just apply new thermal paste and reconnect CPU fan / heat sync?

Recommend you guys check your CPU fan/heat sinks.

The stock heat sink and fan has four posts that snap into the motherboard and usually quite snug. When you CPU reaches high temp it will throttle back or just freeze up to protect itself. I'm assuming it was not installed properly. Yes, use alcohol to clean the cpu and bottom of heat sink and re-apply compound. The motherboards lay flat in the Hobbit unlike POTC (this would have more of a chance of coming off if not installed properly) which is on the back box so I'll give mine a look at today.

HTF does the heat sink break off the CPU? They're always bolted on on every computer I've ever built.

Not broken off turns out - just never installed by factory.

Intel fans just poke and click in.
Turn to release, turn to lock.

Oftrn they are just not poked in enough to click in.

Just line up the fan assembly with the holes in the mainboard and firmly press the black retainers until they click.

I want to attach an external subwoofer to my Hobbit. It looks like there is an open RCA connection on the sound board. It's the open socket rightmost in picture next to the yellow connection. Should I use that?

photo (5) (resized).jpg

I just piggy back off the cabinet woofer. Works as good as anything.

Take the lockdown bar off and unscrew the screw on the back of the ring button a few turns so it pushes the micro switch down a bit more.
When you push the ring button you should be able to hear the "click" that triggers the micro switch.

This is likely the correct fix - I did it to mine to make sure i didn't have to whack it to hard to get it to work properly.

EDIT: I sure hope no one takes the last part of that sentence out of context.

Like this?

(there's really no point starting into the fire if your complete mode is crap. I mean, really...)

It was just a Freudian slip.

Whatever happens in Rivendell........."

tumblr_mv52s1pEWy1r9hy9ho3_500 (resized).png

I am buying a Hobbit manufactured on 12/20/2016. Does anyone know what factory fixes would be pre-installed at the date of manufacture, and which ones i'll still need to fix myself? Thanks!

Changes made along the way include Left wire form. Ramp flaps, beast mechs.

My LE was built 04-22-2016 and it needed all the fixes. It is number 866 of 1500.

Machines built after (07/15/2016) do not need the updates as they were installed at the factory. Your build date should be on rear of cab. Black Arrow was the latest model built. Some Smaug Golds were also built after this date.

Check out posts #6618 and #6698 . #6698 is the simplest way I've seen .

Looking to purchase a Hobbit but could someone tell me what I should be looking for in terms of things that break (ie make sure Smaug mouth opens, etc)? Thanks and hope be join the club soon!

Just make sure you do the Smaug mouth calibration if you get one. Back both end points off until you can not hear the servo buzzing. Then back it off another click or two to be safe.

I've had my Hobbit over a year now, 1000 games played or so. I have not had to fix anything.

I got beefier drop target springs from jjp. I replace them as the factory ones break. After 300 games, I only replaced 2.

I had forgotten this too; I had to refasten the man drop target assembly (the whole thing). Used blue loctite, not a problem since.

I recently bought a Hobbit LE and the most important thing to check is indeed if Smaug works correctly (especially the mouth when he talks). Next to that it’s also good to check if all the fixes have been installed like the beast protectors, new designed left ramp and if the springs have been replaced (perhaps I’m forgetting a fix). I can hardly imagine that there are still machines out there that don’t have these fixes Installed but better to be safe then sorry. The new left ramp and the beast protectors can easily be checked via pictures. Ask the owner to make a picture of one of the beast in the up position and you will spot the beast protectors (2 white/transparent blocks in front of the beast). If the owner really doesn’t know if the fixes have been installed you can also ask for the serial number and check with JJP if the fixes have been installed at the factory or not.

Hopefully you will find one soon because its an absolute masterpiece, I love the Hobbit.

Depends on the make/model. There was a hobbit trail fix, ground loop isolator add-on, ramp flap upgrade/fix, beast mech hole protectors and upgraded drop target springs. Definitely one thing you should have on hand is replacement springs (and they royally suck to swap out btw).

The LED lights are 12v - so any that are burned out make sure you buy the correct replacement.

And this game weighs 5hundredbagillionmillion pounds. Best moved with 4 people unless you are able to use a dolly cart.

Escalera...

This was excellent advice! I was thinking the coil was bad, a loose connection, etc. and it's just a simple rubber grommet! Mine is missing! and when I hold the plunger up a little and test it, it fires just fine! Win!

Does anyone know the proper size for this grommet? I was thinking I could pick one up at my local Lowes or something but don't want to buy 15 different sizes just to get one to work.

Thanks for the awesome advice here!

I have done all the updates, but fail to see the importance of these beast door ball stops. They would be a major PITA to install on my machine. Everyone requires moving the entire mechanism back and adjusting leaf switches and grinding ball stops to fit. The ball rarely ever gets caught and if it does, all you do is wait for game to eject it. Nothing gets damaged. The ball does not get permanently stuck or fall into hole. Believe me, I tried to do it and quickly figured out it's not even remotely worth the trouble, at least on my machine.
P.S>
I am curious why this is so on my machine? All the beast mechs are leaning forward leaving next to no clearance for ball stops to be installed. This is why the balls rarely get caught by doors and don't get permanently stuck. All the beasts register hits from front, back and even side shots perfectly, and why I don't want to start messing with them. Has there ever been a problem where balls got stuck or have fallen down into holes requiring glass removal?

The anti-ball trap fittings are pretty good.

If you arent having any balls sucked down, so that the mech cant push them out, then you dont need them.

If a ball does get stuck, this requires manually retrieving the ball with the glass off.

Most games do indeed need them. Especially if the game gets a lot of plays.

I had a stuck ball almost every other game. Im good at hitting a beast exactly when the trap door goes down, Its a super power lol.

Contrary to popular belief the fittings are easy to install with the right tools. You just have to think about it.
You dont have to remove or disassemble anything at all.

Having the right tools is the key.

It took me 8 mins to install all 4 of them.

Balls can still get stuck, but with the fittings installed, the game can now eject them.

Got some rubber grommets and fixed this today. The Windlance post now goes up and down! Probably cost me 5 cents for the grommet!
Thank you guys.

No way! Not on my machine. No clearance on any of them for the ball stops they sent me. Way to thick.
Also, I tried the 12 inch driver extension approach. And again, there is no clearance to work with.

Sometimes the optos dont shoot straight.

Replacing them fixes that.

But eliminating external light interference and reflection also works well.

Interesting...good troubleshooting! On mine, the green/white wires are on the bottom on the right side -- but on the top on the left side. So exactly backwards of yours. But on the left side the opto sensor faces the back of the machine, while on the right side the opening is toward the front of the machine (just like yours shows). This is because the spinner mount is inverted to be on the left vs right sides.

Got my Black Arrow Thursday and set it up last night!

B13D2B9C-DAF9-4E05-BE62-EE027FA77ACA (resized).jpeg

Congrats...get ready for your adventure!

Looks great!

Did you adjust the lighting for the backbox? Mine is far more washed out for sure!

I haven’t touched it, but there were three owners prior to me. I wouldn’t be surprised if one of them did an adjustment to prevent the washing out.

I think it’s a simple light diffuser you can do to get better colors on back glass. I haven’t done mine yet, but it does look good.

Absolutely the default LCD setting looks like crap. You can change the display mode of the LCD (to cool or movie) by using the control panel on the LCD.
You'll hit yourself in the groin for not doing that years ago.

1/2 cto gel cut into a 3" or 4" wide strip and gorilla taped over the whole length of the backbox led strip.

Or 2 layers of 1/4 cto gel.

You only tape the top and leave the bottom edge hanging.

You dont even have to cut it that perfect.

Its nearly a perfect match.

I did mine the second week i got my game

https://www.adorama.com/le205s.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyJn5BRDrARIsADZ9ykFRvphrhWIEQbUn-sPMYLHVz4RdOMg-OXDrDcdvPzhrOzJjBy-DKFQaAkLREALw_wcB&utm_source=adl-gbase

I remember reading up on this prior to getting the game.

Would this work? No info on it's thickness though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083Q6S1KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xjXjFb5QG975Q

Didn't even think of adjusting the LCD. My issues are more translight diffusing, but I'm going to adjust this too now! Thank you!

Going to get on this, this week. Thank you!

Thanks for the reply! Definitely touched up I'd say.

No.

Get this:

https://www.adorama.com/le205s.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyJn5BRDrARIsADZ9ykFRvphrhWIEQbUn-sPMYLHVz4RdOMg-OXDrDcdvPzhrOzJjBy-DKFQaAkLREALw_wcB&utm_source=adl-gbase