Tidied up that left Cliffy last night! Just tge shooter lane, mylar in the lane, slings, in front of the captive ball, replace the captive ball due to rust pitting, plastic protectors, and then clean and wax....WOOHOO!!! So close!

I did free up the goblin popup. Seems there was a white tie remnant that needed jostled loose.

I also rearranged a wire for less pull when he pops up.

I did notice this wire had some rough spots on it, and saw things like this could be an issue with those mechs. Would mesh loom work well in protecting these types of spots?

Screenshot_20200221-171244_Photos (resized).jpg

I ended up opening a ticket with Jersey Jack, and have received the following response from them "The factory buys that drop target bank main bracket with the ledge pieces already riveted on it, thus the ledge piece is not available separately. The only way to do the replacement from the factory is to buy the main bracket with the ledge riveted onto it, then move the rest of the parts over to the new bracket. This is the part number:
JJP Part Number 10-008002-03
Display Name/Code 3-Bank Drop Tgt Main Brkt Assy"

That's exactly where my wires got cut on one of my pop-ups. I had to solder it, and used electric tape in that spot to protect the wires from rubbing again. Seems to be a common problem...

Hey all - Has anyone had any issues with the Kili Spinner (Right loop)?

It sometimes works. It sometimes doesn't. Registers the whole game / other times it quits mid game / still others - it STARTS working mid-game.
In switch test - it shows the switch as CLOSED (Blocked).

This FEELS to me like an opto that is slightly out of alignment.
I just bought the game and drove it home - So - "Ship Happens"

Clean the opto. Make sure the spinner axle isn't bent, compare to working one. Check in Tests - Switches - Matrixed.

Not much you can adjust short of bending the wire axle that turns in the opto.

LTG : )

I agree 100% - the spinner is "breaking" the plane of the opto. I have cleaned it... but the lenses are all down inside the plastic housing.
Oh, well... I'll look more tonight - but I am not certain it will help. I called JJP...

Does anyone have any tips for removing the captive ball?

I read this thread, tried bonking it a few times with 2 nut drivers, didn't budge.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/newton-ball-assembly-removeinstall#post-5492391

My ball also came off, and the post stayed in. I tried also using pliers to turn it and raise it more....as the user in that thread had his post higher than mine.

Do you have a drill with a slow speed ? Clamp it on and try and unscrew it.

Otherwise a punch from below. Tap lightly with something wood or plastic. Not metal, that tends to be harder on the wood.

LTG : )

many light to moderate taps (50-100) is more effective than 2 or 3 huge heavy hits.
(Think impact drill or hammer).

pinballinreno is right. Skootch it up a tiny bit at a time is better than whacking it out all at once.

LTG : )

What would I use to clamp onto that top part, where the ball used to be?

The post is flush with the playfield, not as highly removed as the person in that thread. So do the post threads need pushed/pulled out more?

Is there a type of vice grip I can lock onto the post with to twist and pull it out?

Or does drill pushing it from below make more sense? I don't really have a drill....yet.

Thanks to you both for your input, by the way.

I meant from the top. Grab the post with your drill chuck and slowly turn it counterclockwise.

Small vice grip works, clamp it onto the post and unscrew the post. From above the playfield.

LTG : )

Would something like this work...?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-10-in-Torque-Lock-Curved-Jaw-Locking-Pliers-with-Durable-Grip-48-22-3410/205017478

Yes, if there is room in the game around the post.

LTG : )

Definitely is.

Would this work better than needlenose pliers? I couldn't grip onto that post for shit....

Something like this might be better if room is an issue.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-6-5-in-Long-Nose-Locking-Pliers-90151/206847935

LTG : )

Yes.

Oh you'll lock that shit on the post with a vice grip.

LTG : )

Will do tomorrow! Couldn't grab onto it for shit with pliers......

I always wondered how the captive ball was attached . That link should be a key Post .
I was told in this thread to add a washer to the top of the Beast Mech's that attach to the Playfield , to stop the wires being chopped like what happened to me , I had some pictures but I can't find them but I'll have another look . Good luck with everything Wesman .

I recommend Vampliers

https://www.vampiretools.com/

I replaced mine....and it was a bit tight but I was able to lightly hammer it out from the bottom and it came out no problem. I was able to push the new one back down from the topside of the PF and push it flush to the PF with a small amount of resistance, and then screw the nut back in to place to hold it.

Note: I didn't use a washer on the topside.

Mine has 3 washers on the topside under the ball.

No movement at all with pliers, topside or bottom.

20200226_225041 (resized).jpg

I give....

I tried getting resistance with a rubber band and paper towel even. All I get are shards off this thing, no movement.

20200226_230735 (resized).jpg

That really is in there tight. I would just start tapping from the bottom until it began to move up. It may take a while but it will eventually

Using two nut drivers from the bottom?

What if that screw is enlarged for some reason?

Or...I'm guessing that ridge is the base of the topside part.

Yes.

Sorry. Time to WHACK that sucker harder.

Or put the ball back on. I had one on a TOM years ago. Ball popped off. I draped two pieces of solder across the top in a cross shape and down each side. Pounded the ball back on. Never came off again.

LTG : )

Nada.

From looking at the pictures I would be hitting it down from the top , less chance of pushing the top of the Playfield wood up , do you even have to pull it out ? can't you just whack down a new ball on the post .

Top side has a base. And it's knurled. Won't fit through the hole.

LTG : )

Gotcha , from looking at the pictures it looks the opposite way , so what about just wacking the new ball on to the post .

If he's scared to whack it up harder, that is what my post #8229 suggested.

LTG : )

Hey gents!

Yeah, I gave up. I gave it some whacks yesterday, nothing. Then today, dozens of light whacks, then a good dozen or two harder whacks. Wouldn't move...

I figure tnuts being installed were thrust in way, way harder, yet I still didn't want to whack full on. There are some splintered areas, small ones, near screws and such, so clearly maniacs went nuts when installing everything.

I decided to mylar then wax on, and off. Played some games with my friend, finally!!!

Definitely need to up the back legs, it's flat on all legs currently. And the shooter rod spring is definitely weak too.

I also want to change the 2032 battery in the PC, and make sure the wires aren't chaffing on the popup mechs.

Other than that, Cliffys and plastic protectors installed. Waxed, mylared, and man this game has such great code and fun assets!!!

JJP just produces pins on an entirely different level than any other modern or past manufacturer. I truly do love the effort everyone that works for JJP puts in...!

20200227_014101 (resized).jpg

Oh yeah, and my ring button isn't registering.

I assume bending the leaf switch up on that will correct this issue?

Probably a leaf switch adjustment - also, there is a screw on the bottom of the button to adjust it to make it longer to better make contact with the switch.

Also make sure the wires are firmly plugged in.

Reading through old posts just to pick up general info and tips regarding game tweaks and....

Damn, time to buy a short fan that can point upwards, it seems....hahahha!!!

Has anyone tried plugging a guitar amp into the headphone jack. Would it work.

I wouldnt, but:

Headphone amps are available for headphones.

I use a fiio one. You can also build an altoids box one.

Can you buy newton balls, with just the hole, and not the posts? I haven't found any online...

These look amazing! I might try them down the road...thank you for the recommendation! Have you used them yourself?

Thanks for the kind words friend! I found the posts and photos in this thread that you recommended. Did this fix resolve your issue or did you just use electrical tape?

Definitely going to try that when I get home..! I had to extend the screw button a bit on my POTC.

What do you think could go wrong.

Absolutely. I was doing a playfield swap last year and I had a brand new hex head screw break off in the playfield. They saved the day!

Make one. Take a ball. Drill a hole in it.

LTG : )

What you are suggesting is plugging the pinball machine's headphone output into the guitar amps input. I don't see why you can't. But there is a big difference between a high fidelity stereo audio system and a live audio, mono guitar amp in terms of sound quality. This has to do with audio compression and signal balancing and you also get phase cancellation if a stereo signal is not properly converted to mono which further degrades the signal quality. You can try it, but you probably won't like it. Just add an external sub. Or connect it to a kick ass home stereo system.

And by underestimate...I mean OVER!!!

Damn, yeah...I don't know if I have the silver balls, to drill into silver balls Lloyd!

zmc4v9fqvyyz (resized).jpg

Man, I might return my $10 pair, and invest in these $40 one's. They seem to be worth it! Looks like they have a rubber grip on the teeth, yes?

Side note...!

Leveled my game a bit last night, via the android Pinball Leveller app. Was aiming for 6.9/7. Definitely got that high on the mid to upper part of the game, not near the flippers though. That was lower....

Changed my 3 year plus old 2032 motherboard battery! That wasn't too tough, though the metal lid had sunk on quite firmly on the right side, over the years... And yeah, that motherboard fan is a bit close, and fast!

Gripped the button and lowered the screw, which helped make contact for the ring switch! Man, I wish they'd put some rubber on those plastic button shafts or use a screw without teeth behind it.

And finally, I approached the definitely chaffing upper left pop up beast. Always forget if that's a goblin or orc! The white wire tie had been cut away by someone, so the green and white wires were roaming freely on the mech. Managed to snug in, for now anyway, some smallish mesh loom around the wires, and it still fires okay..!

20200228_000138 (resized).jpg

20200228_001456 (resized).jpg

Hey folks! I joined the club today. Brought home Gold Smaug #314. It's running code 2.96 so I know I need to update. Please let this new owner know of any issues I need to be on the lookout for. warmest regards -
Murphy

I would play it a bit. To be sure all working. Then update it. That way if something isn't working. You know it was fine before the update.

And when you update the game. Follow carefully the instructions on the website. jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - Hobbit. The only thing available is the 3.10 Full Install.

LTG : )