Definitely the worst part of this game is the absolute LUCK to get the ball to roll over the outside lanes to help start beast frenzy. Wish there was a way to change this somehow.

Joined the club today with Smaug #42. It is beautiful with only a couple hundred games on it! Looks like all fixes are already installed and has 3.10 software installed. Thanks Jesterfunhouse for a great machine and easy transaction!

Mike

I do this a lot.
It was hard at first but easy if you practise it.

The shatz shot

I've debated that. I don't think I posses that level of skill.

its not really skill, its just a bit of practice.

i just pulled the glass, stuck a sock in the out hole an tried it about 300 times.

same with backhanding the holes...

Be a kinder Pimp, please....

I just did the shatzing and it totally helped. I just wrecked this game. Thank you!

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What do people think is the " easiest " 5 star mode .

Riddles in the Dark

Question for folks here.

Getting ready to install the second half of my Cliffys, and was wondering what people's thoughts are on placing mylar down WITH the shooter lane Cliffy set. Is it necessary or redundant?

Thanks for reading!

I added mylar to the shooter lane (in addition to cliffys). Also, the right VUK isn't too bad - but the left you have to remove more - so expect an hour or so for that side.

I also added a small 1 inch block of mylar right in front of the captive ball.

An hour....... *gasp*

I took about 2-3 on the right. I had a bit of an issue getting those posts out, then in. At some point I had to grip them on the top while unscrewing on the bottom side. Forgot about that.....

Oh cool! Definitely makes sense in front of the captive ball!

And for the shooter lane, did you cut out a V shape or just a rectangle to go in front of the switch? Did you place it under the Cliffys?

Thanks again!

It was a rectangular piece that is in the lane above the cliffy (but not under)

The right is much easier - and it isn't exactly a quick job.

EDIT: Added a picture to show approximately where I placed mylar.

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Good idea! I'll do that too!

oh that graphic is excellent! Thank you so much!

Smaug mylar is in, and I'm headed for those nuts!

My Green sculpt was a bit tough to jostle loose and over the screws. Had to use a screwdriver head to pry them off a bit. Moving forward!

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Hmm. Any easier way to get at this nut, when moving the VUK? This bugger is way back under the drop targets...

Edit. Got it....though it fell into the subway, of course!
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I cant recall if I had a different way to get to it. All I remember is that is a major pain in the ass to get what you need off to get the cliffy installed on the left VUK. But once you get it, it will be nice to have it on there.

That said - I really wish that JJP would have done it at the factory during the builds for Hobbits built after the cliffy's were available.

Now you're a pinball god!
Time to dominate local tourneys!

Its tough love....

I just removed the drop target bank. It's easy. Just unplug it and cut a couple tie straps and remove the four screws. I hate dropping screws! Especially into the subway..LOL!

Yeah, putting this shit in, taking a game apart, prior to even playing the damn thing....is a total bummer.

Thank you to everyone that helped! Cliffy is in, just reassembly and finding a missing screw and tnut.......for tomorrow.

Oh man. I think I'll do that tomorrow, as when putting those tiny VUK screws back in, they all kept seeming to go in at slight angles..... Kinda feel that would be an issue for a tight VUK seal.

Going to pick this up tomorrow before work, and snake my tunnels! So many screws, definitely easier to magna snake!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Magnet-19-in-Bendable-Retrieving-Magnets-96504/203613177

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Hmmm. Sling mylar or no? If so, wax first?

Anyone have any good videos on waxing? I keep trying to find them. I don't feel I'm a competent waxer.

Buffalo Pinball has a good YouTube video on waxing.

There are plastic ledges that 'hold' the drop target up that could be broken. I found that in test it would sometimes hold, but in game play it did not.

Get a light and look to see if they are broken (when viewing from under the play field). I had to replace my whole assembly to fix that issue. I want to know if anyone has found a way to replace those black plastic 'ledges' instead of having to replace the whole assembly? I seen a few posts ago someone tried with a stern replacement and those didn't fit. I would love to hear from JJP on this - and perhaps I should just call them.

NOTE: If you have the opposite problem and the drop won't go down it is a broken spring. - And that is a quick inexpensive repair (unlike the other)

Clean. Then one coat wax.

LTG : )

Open a ticket.

Mist N Shine and a good quality paper towel can to clean up first?

Thanks everyone for the recommendations!

And yeah, I remember watching this a ways back. Awesome recommendation!

No, not for this. Clean and good carnauba wax.

LTG : )

Just water on a rag to clean?

Or something harder like naptha? I haven't played this yet. Only had 2 games on it from the factory. NIB.

Naptha, never ever water.

only 2 games?

Sparkle on a rag followed by a paper towel.

Then one coat of wax that's as thin as a fingerprint.

Let dry 30-40 mins wipe off the wax with a microfiber cloth, buff to a better shine with a clean flannel cloth.

You can wax plastic ramps, wireforms, playfield or pretty much anything solid.
Doing this preserves its newness longer.

Just get all the wax off with a rag and a toothbrush for corners.

check audits and do this again at 350 plays.

Yup. 2 games were from the factory. I've been waiting to put my Cliffy's in, and finally am!

Thanks for the tips, as always! I really wish I could pinball apprentice with some of you guys....I have so much to learn and develop!

Those ledges are on there by rivets so no way to replace the ledge except what you did, replace the whole mech. When the ledge broke on mine, and after exploring how to fix, I actually super glued the ledge figuring it would never last past one game. That was over 200 games ago. Now this all depends on how the ledge breaks. Mine was a jagged line but when placed together it was a perfect fit and super glue worked. Go figure.
Like you said, also interested if JJP or anyone else has a better idea.

I know this has been answered before, but I can't find it.
What is the production date when Hobbit's shipped with the upgrade kit installed by the factory?

Thanks in advance.

Stupid question...

I'm assuming these beast mech ties are cut off, yes? They seem to go up freely.

The game had been sent back to JJP in 2016 to have the white spacers put in, ramp fixed, and when it was sent to me last October, the ties were already cut.

Problem is, beasts don't seem to be firing fully, or at all, during tests.

Late night finding my one nut, and tnut, then losing the tnut again....looking for an hour to no avail, then doing some quick switch tests. So I'm not entirely sure what's going on, or not, presently...

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The mechs fire in the test menu when you close the door. You can highlight one, then close the coin door and they go up. There may be a better more correct way, but that's what I've seen. Is that possibly what is happening?

I was closing the door, then pressing start. I know one went up about halfway. Others didn't seem to be firing.

I've got my whole damn workshift to get through before I can get home and try and test them again.........

I'd just start a game, but I need to still install my shooter rail Cliffy, plastic protectors, and clean and wax. I wasted so much time trying to find loose parts last night.

Putting a towel down when working on either the top or inside the cab saves hours of looking for small dropped parts.

Good tip!

Yes.....I am a master loser at this point, less a finder.

You think I'll have any issue with the right post, the one that hooks into the right side of the VUK wireform, not having a tnut ground it?

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I'd take the glass off. Start a game. Then hit the lower lane switches that fire them, see if they work then.

If not please be sure they move up and down freely. Then at the bottom of the mech, loosen the bolt, and turn the rubber stopper looking thing up a little and then tighten the bolt. And try again.

LTG : )

Buy another tnut at home depot.

Find the lost one when you vacuum tha cab out after waxing.

(Yes you should vacuum the playfield or blow it off with air and the vacuum cab out after waxing.)

Keeps from building up white dust.

Tested manually They should drop like a rock.

No binding at all.

Then check adjustments/cut wires/loose switches/stop nut adjustment etc.

Machines built after (07/15/2016) do not need the updates as they were installed at the factory.

Thank you!

Awesome as usual LTG! Definitely counting down the hours from work to get home and try these options!

So....the tnut fell out, when I tried to put it back in, and screw the post in. I tried pressing the tnut in via where the tnut pricks were in prior, used the bottom of the VUK coil, the flat end of the metal to press it in a bit. Just wouldn't stay in obviously....

Suggestions?

They definitely seem to lower. Going to have to check more when I get home....

Is this a playfield t-nut underneath into the plywood?

If so:

They are hamnered in initially and can be reset with a bolt and a couple fender washers if there is room.

Alternatively, if there is room, push the t-nut back in.

Rotate it so that the prongs go back into their original holes.

Screw a gold playfield screw next to it so that the screw head hold the t-nut in. You will see this on other t-nuts.

It there is no room, epoxy the t-nut in. Let it dry 4 hours.

Be careful installing the post to keep ftom pushing it back out.

Re-glue as needed.

Check the t-nut threads so that the post screws in easily.

If the threads are trashed from cross theading replace the t-nut and post.

Adding a drop of oil will make it smoother/easier to tighten.

Phew! Excellent tips, gonna go deep diving to find this bugger again, when I get home in 30!

Not exactly pretty, but I found the tnut! And I could only wedge it back so far in, but was able to screw the post in topside.

So.....this should suffice, yes?

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