(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by pinballinreno
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#7951 43 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I keep saying ramp when I mean to say wireform.
Thanks fnosm! I'll look into this as well.
The upgrade kit I just got doesn't explain where the left wireform post they included is supposed to go?

It goes on the last mounting foot/screw of the left wireform to the left (along the sidewall), just before the end loops.

#7952 43 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I keep saying ramp when I mean to say wireform.
Thanks fnosm! I'll look into this as well.
The upgrade kit I just got doesn't explain where the left wireform post they included is supposed to go?

goes right here where this wireform screw is now.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread#post-3050377

Early version of what JJP sent you, installed

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/7#post-3161281

#7953 43 days ago

Thank you!

I removed the left wirefrom and used my Dremel with a grinding wheel to remove metal from all four cross braces from diverter location to bottom loop. I then polished it with Zam Buffing compound. The ball was hitting every cross brace! What a shit design for a habitrail! Now the ball doesn't hit any of them and so far, no ejects. I also installed the ball trap post that came with kit. I removed and replaced all the drop target springs as well. Very easy to do once you unplug and remove the drop target mechanisms from machine (easy to do). The new springs are longer than the originals by quite a bit. They must have been pulling too tight on the drop targets, thus breaking prematurely. The plastic edges that drop targets sit on all looked good.
Thanks to you excellent Pinsiders for your help!

#7954 43 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed and toss a ball in. May not have been hit in awhile.
LTG : )

It turned out to be the opto on the outside of the subway channel that popped off. I just snapped it back into place.

#7955 43 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

It turned out to be the opto on the outside of the subway channel that popped off. I just snapped it back into place.

Yep, good fix!

#7956 42 days ago

OK, I install one beast door plastic from upgrade kit and now my Spider gets caught on it. WTF! No idea what to do about this? My beast heads are sitting forward.

#7957 42 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

No idea what to do about this?

Spider mech too close to front of hole ? Wrong plastic ? ( three are kind of flat and one is carved out for spider )

All else fails - remove it and file accordingly and replace.

LTG : )

#7958 42 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Spider mech too close to front of hole ? Wrong plastic ? ( three are kind of flat and one is carved out for spider )
All else fails - remove it and file accordingly and replace.
LTG : )

Nice that the F*cking instructions didn't tell me that?
Thanks. Now I have to tear it all out again and deal with those springs and trap door again! Yah!

#7959 42 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Nice that the F*cking instructions didn't tell me that?

I didn't realize there were instructions.

Sorry.

LTG : )

#7960 42 days ago

No, I don't see any difference in them at all.

#7961 42 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

No, I don't see any difference in them at all.

The ones I had didn't come from JJP.

What JJP sent went into most of the games. So they must work. I'd make sure the mech is far enough back, and spider/leaf blade stack isn't leaning forward. Then file the thing to fit and work.

The ones I was given. Had to be custom fit to each hole. So I had to do some filing and cutting on each one.

LTG : )

#7962 42 days ago

OK, so how do I adjust the beast to sit farther back?

#7963 42 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

OK, so how do I adjust the beast to sit farther back?

The whole mech is held by 5 screws, loosen and see if you can shove it back. With out binding on the playfield on the other side.

Spider leaf blade thing, leaf blade adjusters. If there is room to scoot them back a little.

LTG : )

#7964 42 days ago

So the whole mech? Have to epoxy and drill new holes? Starting to think this ain't worth the trouble.

#7965 42 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

So the whole mech? Have to epoxy and drill new holes? Starting to think this ain't worth the trouble.

I'd be tempted to file the little bastards face off a little and touch up with black paint. Playing from the front of the game I don't think you'd see it.

But that's just me.

LTG : )

#7966 42 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd be tempted to file the little bastards face off a little and touch up with black paint. Playing from the front of the game I don't think you'd see it.
But that's just me.
LTG : )

Good idea. But I put it on hold for now. I'm not sure yet if it's worth the trouble. I'm certainly not going to reposition the mechs and start adjusting leaf switches. It works now. I'd rather enjoy the game before causing new problems. I do want to ask though, do the solenoids overheat if a ball gets trapped in the doors? Or does the software prevent this like it does with a failed EOS switch?
Thanks!

#7967 42 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I do want to ask though, do the solenoids overheat if a ball gets trapped in the doors?

I doubt it. Only kicks briefly for ball search.

LTG : )

#7968 41 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

So the whole mech? Have to epoxy and drill new holes? Starting to think this ain't worth the trouble.

I installed all of my ball blockers in 8 mins without removing anything.

It just took a little thought and a couple common 1/4" extentions.

Nothing exotic.

I wrote about it in this thread and on the setup and tweaks thread.

I didnt replace any of the drop springs yet. I just bent new loops for the 2 that broke.

So far it's been perfect.

#7969 41 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I installed all of my ball blockers in 8 mins without removing anything.
It just took a little thought and a couple common 1/4" extentions.
Nothing exotic.
I wrote about it in this thread and on the setup and tweaks thread.

If you're talking about this post below... I can tell you that it will not solve my problem. I still had major clearance problem with the Spider and that ball stop. I will have to grind off material and somehow adjust the spider from leaning so far forward. Not sure how to do that other than moving entire mech backward. Maybe grinding down ball stop and face of Spider both. But not really interested in all this right now.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I just finished installing the character ball trap fix:
firstly, I have to apologize to whoever made the detailed instruction sheet, I didnt use it.
installation took 8 mins:
lean pf against backbox with power off.
go find drill gun plus either a 12" magnetic extension for a 1/4" magnetic hex bit, or 3 regular 3" x 1/4" magnetic extensions stuck together plus a 1/4" magnetic hex bit (this is what I used to get a little flex out of the extension).
push one of the mechs thru the PF about 2".
put a dab of titebond on a screw and put it into the tool bit. place loaded gun on top of metal computer box.
wiggle the plastic insert from JJP around a bit in the front space of the mech until is right. Raising and lowering the mech helps to position it or push it in. angled ledge toward the pf edge, rounded gap toward the character head.
from the outside, reach in with a finger and press the insert firmly towards the edge. this is important, FIRMLY ON THE EDGE, no visible gaps seen from the other side.
grab your pre loaded gun and carefully mount the screws without stripping them out. there is plenty of room for the tool bit just push it in to the side of the wires.
do this 4 times.
I started with the spider mech it seemed the easiest.
it was super easy. works surprisingly well.
go into test check the up and down motion of the mechs
start a game check each mech and mech switch with a ball.
make any adjustments at this time.

#7970 41 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

If you're talking about this post below... I can tell you that it will not solve my problem. I still had major clearance problem with the Spider and that ball stop. I will have to grind off material and somehow adjust the spider from leaning so far forward. Not sure how to do that other than moving entire mech backward. Maybe grinding down ball stop and face of Spider both. But not really interested in all this right now.

The spider should not be severely leaning forward unless the leaf switch is way out of adjustment.

Mine is more or less verticle.

If that can't be adjusted properly:

Pull the mech.
Elongate the mounting holes in the steel mech bracket 1/16" so you can slide it back just a touch, then reassemble it.

Many times I have had to do this on many different games.

Its easier than it sounds.

Maybe a 30min fix.

#7971 41 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The spider should not be severely leaning forward unless the leaf switch is way out of adjustment.
Mine is more or less verticle.
If that can't be adjusted properly:
Pull the mech.
Elongate the mounting holes in the steel mech bracket 1/16" so you can slide it back just a touch, then reassemble it.
Many times I have had to do this on many different games.
Its easier than it sounds.
Maybe a 30min fix.

Also, balls can still get trapped.
But with the fix, ball search will clear them.

Before, there was no way the game could clear a trapped ball.
You had to pry it out.

#7972 41 days ago

Thanks for the info!

The spider and all beasts do work correctly and register hits front and back.

You were right about the pitch! I increased it today from 6.7 to 6.93. Averaged four reads across playfield. Huge difference! Plays awesome now!!!
I also waxed playfield today. Maybe that helped. I tried increasing flipper power to 26L and 27R, but was getting air balls. Dialed it back to default and it's perfect. I am able to backhand both ramps and right hole so far. Also, cradling is way better on both flippers! No more floaty B.S.

#7973 41 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Thanks for the info!
The spider and all beasts do work correctly and register hits front and back.
You were right about the pitch! I increased it today from 6.7 to 6.93. Averaged four reads across playfield. Huge difference! Plays awesome now!!!
I also waxed playfield today. Maybe that helped. I tried increasing flipper power to 26L and 27R, but was getting air balls. Dialed it back to default and it's perfect. I am able to backhand both ramps and right hole so far. Also, cradling is way better on both flippers! No more floaty B.S.

I tested the game extensively regarding pitch.

7.1-7.2 is the sweet spot.

Check in 3 areas, take an average.

Adjust flippers accordingly.

Adjust the right flipper +1 from the left.

26 to 28 seems right.

#7974 41 days ago

OK,
I was already happy, but I'll give it a whirl. You guys are the Masters!

Here is another adjustment I made today!
DSCN0090 (resized).JPGDSCN0093 (resized).JPG

#7975 41 days ago

Nice!

#7976 41 days ago

You can bend the frame of the mech if you need to. You need to pull the mech and dismantle it to see how it slides up and down and then bend the actual mech frame so it doesn't catch. My spider was holding up because it was binding on the frame at the top of the stroke.

#7977 41 days ago

Thanks!
At some point I'll get to this when I get bored.

I can't find the spring steel ramp flaps for Hobbit. I would like to replace mine. They've curled up off of the playfield.

#7978 41 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Thanks!
At some point I'll get to this when I get bored.
I can't find the spring steel ramp flaps for Hobbit. I would like to replace mine. They've curled up off of the playfield.

You can order these from JJP. If you have the thin originals still you may be able to get these on warranty.

#7979 40 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Thanks!
At some point I'll get to this when I get bored.
I can't find the spring steel ramp flaps for Hobbit. I would like to replace mine. They've curled up off of the playfield.

JJP has a fix kit.
Call them for it.
It involves removing the steel ramp assembly.

Takes about 45mins. This includes waxing underneath.

You will need to rivet the new flaps on. The rivets are included in the kit.

But the rivet tool/clincher is not.

#7980 40 days ago

I read somewhere that they included a tool for that?
I guess I'll ask them..
Thanks!

#7981 40 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I read somewhere that they included a tool for that?
I guess I'll ask them..
Thanks!

They do not.
They do include pop-rivets if you don't want to do it properly.

Its way easier.

But, pop-rivets loosen up pretty quickly. The flaps have quite a bend in them.

It's best to get the Hanson rivet tool.

https://www.erivet.com/product_detail.cfm?itemNbr=HT-174

#7982 40 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

They do not.
They do include pop-rivets if you don't want to do it properly.
Its way easier.
But, pop-rivets loosen up pretty quickly. The flaps have quite a bend in them.
It's best to get the Hanson rivet tool.
https://www.erivet.com/product_detail.cfm?itemNbr=HT-174

While you are at it you may want to install Cliffy protectors on the holes. Since you will have the ramp out of the machine to swap the flaps it is a good time to add the protectors.

#7983 40 days ago

Thanks again!
I will do that.

#7984 40 days ago
Quoted from fnosm:

While you are at it you may want to install Cliffy protectors on the holes as well. Since you will have the ramp out of the machine to swap the flaps it is a good time to add the protectors as well.

LOL!
I was just looking at them (Cliffy's) for that reason!
I always figured hole protectors were not necessary until they were worn. Why cover the rim when it looks good? But I do like to protect the shooter lane straight off.

#7985 40 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

LOL!
I was just looking at them (Cliffy) for that reason!
I always figured hole protectors were not necessary until they were worn. Why cover the rim when it looks good? But I do like to protect the shooter lane straight off.

My experience was that after pulling the ramp out once, I didn't want to do it again. Glad to have this maintenance task in my rearview.

#7986 40 days ago
Quoted from fnosm:

My experience was that after pulling the ramp out once, I didn't want to do it again. Glad to have this maintenance task in my rearview.

I believe I will do it just for that reason!

#7987 40 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

LOL!
I was just looking at them (Cliffy's) for that reason!
I always figured hole protectors were not necessary until they were worn. Why cover the rim when it looks good? But I do like to protect the shooter lane straight off.

When removing the ramp, DO NOT pop the sensors off the ramp. Unplug the sensor connectors from the board underneath and label them and pull them through the playfield. Be careful when handling. Drill pop rivets out, install new flaps and reverse process. These sensors are just stupid ridiculous to try to get to snap back on.

If you're going to do a set of Cliffy's, do it all at the same time. Cliffy's absolutely suck ass to install on this machine (specifically Balin). You'll swear so much you're neighborhood priest might bust down the door yelling "the power of Christ compels you". DO NOT play your machine for 24 hours after. Let the adhesive setup/cure.

And lastly, while the ramp is out REPLACE ALL RUBBERS and make DAMN sure both hole backstops are tight and the posts in the pop bumper area are also tight.

#7988 40 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

You'll swear so much you're neighborhood priest might bust down the door yelling "the power of Christ compels you".


Thanks so much for the heads up! Great advice!!

#7989 40 days ago

Listed my Hobbit Black Arrow on the marketplace.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/89043

#7990 40 days ago

Installed Mezelmods gold trough lighting and gold back board lighting tonight! Beautiful!!!! I did cover the center 8 back board LED's with Gorilla tape and I didn't get the striping effect on ramps.

Next I will be installing their gold under cab lighting as well. I will post a pic when done for those interested.

#7991 40 days ago

I also raised the pitch to 7.2 averaged across upper, center and lower playfield and bumped up the flipper power as per 'pinballinreno's' advise.
Game plays awesome!!!!!!!!! This pin rocks now.. So much fun!!
Thanks for all the help everyone!

#7992 40 days ago

Good price
GLWS

#7993 39 days ago

Here are some pics of the Lermods (purchased from Mezel Mods) lighting mods including the trough, back plate and yellow under cab basic lighting kit. The 8 center LED's are covered with Gorilla tape to deduce ramp striping. The LED stripes on ramps show up in pics a lot! But not to the eye nearly as much.
DSCN0094 (resized).JPGDSCN0095 (resized).JPGDSCN0096 (resized).JPGDSCN0105 (resized).JPGDSCN0108 (resized).JPG

#7994 39 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Here are some pics of the Mezel Mods lighting mods including the trough, back plate and yellow under cab basic lighting kit. The LED stripes on ramps show up in pics a lot! But not to the eye nearly as much.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice, that’s the lermods backboard and trough . They are a reseller of ours.

#7995 38 days ago

Killed Smaug again last night for the first time in a couple months. Such a supremely satisfying shot!

#7996 38 days ago

Just installed the Lermods side translite illumination kit. It looks so much better now that I can see the artwork around the monitor. Great mod!

877D1DD6-B93E-4CB5-947D-B62B184B4CDA (resized).jpeg
#7997 38 days ago
Quoted from pineal:

Killed Smaug again last night for the first time in a couple months. Such a supremely satisfying shot!

I still haven't figured out how to do that yet??

#7998 37 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I still haven't figured out how to do that yet??

First time I did it was by accident. Then I watched a video and started trying to do it. Basically you want to play some good, long Smaug multiballs. This has been posted before in this forum but I’ll save you the search and post again, in case you want to know all the steps.

#7999 37 days ago

When the final shot is set up perfectly from the kickback and you hit that target from the upper flipper....there is honestly nothing better in pinball. What a rush.

#8000 37 days ago

Thanks for the video!!!
It would be a total rush to achieve this I'm sure!!!
I did set the game to 'Prevent Overlap with Multiball' already, so now I'm off to practice!

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