(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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  • 7,828 posts
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  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by Wildbill327
  • Topic is favorited by 188 Pinsiders

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There are 7828 posts in this topic. You are on page 157 of 157.
#7801 7 days ago
Quoted from KingBW:

This Pinnovators gizmo can do that. I have 3 pins on each sub with it and there is no distortion, individual bass volume control ... best solution I've seen.
http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=58&osCsid=v1clt4fijjhrcp2g867tdbbkp2

Updated link as we launched our new site 11/1: https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/products/pinsmx-passive-subwoofer-mixer?_pos=1&_sid=651baecd6&_ss=r

Use this code YDH69A53QCH8 at checkout for for 5% off your first order at our new site. Valid until 2:00 pm EST Nov 6.

#7802 6 days ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

Hopefully this can help, it’s the black and red wires that come from under Smaug and goes to the back of the PC box(big metal box with all the connectors). Make sure they are all connected properly.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for this. I'll take a look this weekend when I have some time.

#7803 6 days ago

Hello, everybody. So after seeing small plastic pieces falling down little by little during the last year in the bottom of the cabinet, it arrived at a point where one of the drop target wasn't able to stay in UP position. The reason is that there was no rest ledge plastic anymore to keep the target in position. I've tried to find a way to replace only those rest ledge plastics but it's not possible to buy them anywhere separately.

So here are the 3 items I've ordered directly from Jersey Jack. BTW, very great communication with the support and fast shipping!

2x (MAN & ELF) : JJP Part Number 10-008002-03
1x (DWARF) : JJP Part Number 10-008002-05

Total : 87.97 + tx & shipping.

This include the Metal Frame (Main Bracket Assembly) including black plastics.

As you can see, after 3 years of use, they are completely destroyed:
- MAN target bracket :
IMG-20191027-WA0012 (resized).jpg
- ELF target bracket :
IMG-20191027-WA0016 (resized).jpg

Side by side, one of the new bracket I've received with of of my old one.
IMG_20191027_102423 (resized).jpg

As the problem will probably restart in the future, my idea is to keep my old bracket and 3D print the black plastic and fix them with new rivets.

Fortunatelly, replacing the old frames with the new took a lot less time that I was expected. Calculate 30-40 minutes each.

So I am sharing you how to proceed. (Note that the procedure will be the same for the 5 drop targets with just more screws):

1) Disconnect the drop target connector
IMG_20191027_090400 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191027_090419 (resized).jpg

2) Remove those 4 screws
IMG_20191027_090807 (resized).jpg

3) Remove the 4 screws from under the playfield
IMG_20191027_091023 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191027_091030 (resized).jpg

4) Remove all washers and springs to release the targets. And remove the 3 white screws at the bottom. Try to not rotate the nuts independantly so your targets will stay correctly adjusted on the new bracket.
IMG_20191027_092217 (resized).jpg

5) Remove the 4 screws that were located behind the drop targets.
IMG-20191027-WA0016 (resized).jpg

6) Remove the 12 remaining screws for each coils and coil stops.
IMG_20191027_094800 (resized).jpg

7) Rebuild the kit on your new frame in reverse order and enjoy your game!!

So, as you can see, it's easy. It's just disappointing how this part of the game is unreliable. The rivets are probably too big and doesn't keep enough plastic on the top and the bottom to keep them enough strong. Will see if the new brackets get a better success!

#7804 6 days ago
Quoted from ChrisLIX:

Hello, everybody. So after seeing small plastic pieces falling down little by little during the last year in the bottom of the cabinet, it arrived at a point where one of the drop target wasn't able to stay in UP position. The reason is that there was no rest ledge plastic anymore to keep the target in position. I've tried to find a way to replace only those rest ledge plastics but it's not possible to buy them anywhere separately.
So here are the 3 items I've ordered directly from Jersey Jack. BTW, very great communication with the support and fast shipping!
2x (MAN & ELF) : JJP Part Number 10-008002-03
1x (DWARF) : JJP Part Number 10-008002-05
Total : 87.97 + tx & shipping.
This include the Metal Frame (Main Bracket Assembly) including black plastics.
As you can see, after 3 years of use, they are completely destroyed:
- MAN target bracket :
[quoted image]
- ELF target bracket :
[quoted image]
Side by side, one of the new bracket I've received with of of my old one.
[quoted image]
As the problem will probably restart in the future, my idea is to keep my old bracket and 3D print the black plastic and fix them with new rivets.
Fortunatelly, replacing the old frames with the new took a lot less time that I was expected. Calculate 30-40 minutes each.
So I am sharing you how to proceed. (Note that the procedure will be the same for the 5 drop targets with just more screws):
1) Disconnect the drop target connector
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
2) Remove those 4 screws
[quoted image]
3) Remove the 4 screws from under the playfield
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
4) Remove all washers and springs to release the targets. And remove the 3 white screws at the bottom. Try to not rotate the nuts independantly so your targets will stay correctly adjusted on the new bracket.
[quoted image]
5) Remove the 4 screws that were located behind the drop targets.
[quoted image]
6) Remove the 12 remaining screws for each coils and coil stops.
[quoted image]
7) Rebuild the kit on your new frame in reverse order and enjoy your game!!
So, as you can see, it's easy. It's just disappointing how this part of the game is unreliable. The rivets are probably too big and doesn't keep enough plastic on the top and the bottom to keep them enough strong. Will see if the new brackets get a better success!

Honestly, I don't think a person can complain about the factory part (not that you're complaining of course) Let's face it - the drop targets are an essential part of this game and take SEVERE abuse. I HIGHLY recommend that the FIRST time you have to remove a target bank, you remove every small coil mount screw and blue loctite em. These things can/will get loose and fall out. Tearing this bank apart is not exactly fun so do it!

#7805 6 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

I HIGHLY recommend that the FIRST time you have to remove a target bank, you remove every small coil mount screw and blue loctite em. These things can/will get loose and fall out. Tearing this bank apart is not exactly fun so do it!

Maybe you are right, but I can confirm that they were still solidly fixed and not moving at all. The 2 only weakness I think there are in those bank targets are the rest ledge plastics and the spring that needs to be replaced sometimes (but I don't care too much about springs because they are very easy to replace).

#7806 6 days ago
Quoted from ChrisLIX:

Hello, everybody. So after seeing small plastic pieces falling down little by little during the last year in the bottom of the cabinet, it arrived at a point where one of the drop target wasn't able to stay in UP position. The reason is that there was no rest ledge plastic anymore to keep the target in position. I've tried to find a way to replace only those rest ledge plastics but it's not possible to buy them anywhere separately.
So here are the 3 items I've ordered directly from Jersey Jack. BTW, very great communication with the support and fast shipping!
2x (MAN & ELF) : JJP Part Number 10-008002-03
1x (DWARF) : JJP Part Number 10-008002-05
Total : 87.97 + tx & shipping.
This include the Metal Frame (Main Bracket Assembly) including black plastics.
As you can see, after 3 years of use, they are completely destroyed:
- MAN target bracket :
[quoted image]
- ELF target bracket :
[quoted image]
Side by side, one of the new bracket I've received with of of my old one.
[quoted image]
As the problem will probably restart in the future, my idea is to keep my old bracket and 3D print the black plastic and fix them with new rivets.
Fortunatelly, replacing the old frames with the new took a lot less time that I was expected. Calculate 30-40 minutes each.
So I am sharing you how to proceed. (Note that the procedure will be the same for the 5 drop targets with just more screws):
1) Disconnect the drop target connector
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
2) Remove those 4 screws
[quoted image]
3) Remove the 4 screws from under the playfield
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
4) Remove all washers and springs to release the targets. And remove the 3 white screws at the bottom. Try to not rotate the nuts independantly so your targets will stay correctly adjusted on the new bracket.
[quoted image]
5) Remove the 4 screws that were located behind the drop targets.
[quoted image]
6) Remove the 12 remaining screws for each coils and coil stops.
[quoted image]
7) Rebuild the kit on your new frame in reverse order and enjoy your game!!
So, as you can see, it's easy. It's just disappointing how this part of the game is unreliable. The rivets are probably too big and doesn't keep enough plastic on the top and the bottom to keep them enough strong. Will see if the new brackets get a better success!

Its possible that they were riveted too tight and fractured.

The cracked ledge then failed after a short while.

#7807 6 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its possible that they were riveted too tight and fractured.
The cracked ledge then failed after a short while.

I hope so

#7808 5 days ago

I installed the backbox amp from pinwoofer today into my Hobbit and WOW, what a huge difference. I'm really impressed. Install was dead simple with everything being plug and play. Took about 10 minutes to get everything hooked up.

#7809 5 days ago
Quoted from ChrisLIX:

Maybe you are right, but I can confirm that they were still solidly fixed and not moving at all. The 2 only weakness I think there are in those bank targets are the rest ledge plastics and the spring that needs to be replaced sometimes (but I don't care too much about springs because they are very easy to replace).

That’s a great write up. I had the Bombur target ledge snap in half. I was able to glue it together and surprisingly it has lasted for quite a while. Those ledges are very thin and it’s amazing that they all don’t break often. No way to fix the ledges without taking the rivets out which looks to be nearly impossible. I was trying to find a way to reinforce them with a thicker plastics but with the rivets, couldn’t do. Kind of good to know that 3 bank targets are only about 30 bucks each.

#7810 5 days ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

I installed the backbox amp from pinwoofer today into my Hobbit and WOW, what a huge difference. I'm really impressed. Install was dead simple with everything being plug and play. Took about 10 minutes to get everything hooked up.

Do they sell just the amp? Or did you get the speaker(s) also?

#7811 5 days ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Do they sell just the amp? Or did you get the speaker(s) also?

Yes, you can add either a backbox amp or a sub amp - both stand-alone. We offer custom kitting any way you want it.

However, to get the full experience for The Hobbit we recommend keeping the backbox speakers in play but with our amp, and adding a sub kit that includes our driver and sub amp.

From an OEM standpoint, the backbox speakers are well engineered and sound great. But, we recommend replacing the cabinet speaker with our dual voice-coil 8" driver.

The kit DeeGor has in his Hobbit is here:

https://pinwoofer.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fpinwoofer-powered-super-kit

For The Hobbit, select "JJP - Early Jersey Jack Pinball" under "PLATFORM AND DUAL AMP POWER HARNESS".

Hobbit is simple to install. Thanks

#7812 4 days ago
Quoted from ChrisLIX:

As the problem will probably restart in the future, my idea is to keep my old bracket and 3D print the black plastic and fix them with new rivets.

That would be a good idea - I had to replace my assembly a few years ago. I am sure that they will break again. I had hopes that JJP would be able to get better plastic- or maybe metal? - for the ledges so they don't break again. Apparently they still use the same black plastic ledges.

I would love someone to make a mod? or improved bracket that had better ledge pieces - or at least make them were you can replace the plastic ledges more easily.

#7813 4 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

That would be a good idea - I had to replace my assembly a few years ago. I am sure that they will break again. I had hopes that JJP would be able to get better plastic- or maybe metal? - for the ledges so they don't break again. Apparently they still use the same black plastic ledges.
I would love someone to make a mod? or improved bracket that had better ledge pieces - or at least make them were you can replace the plastic ledges more easily.

A mod or a steel piece would be awesome, but you would have to rivet it all together...ugh!

It can be done, but a lot of work.

#7814 4 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A mod or a steel piece would be awesome, but you would have to rivet it all together...ugh!
It can be done, but a lot of work.

I thought it should have been steel all along - and not plastic. I was hoping JJP would have corrected it by now. Because if and when they do, that is the bracket I will buy.

#7815 4 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I thought it should have been steel all along - and not plastic. I was hoping JJP would have corrected it by now. Because if and when they do, that is the bracket I will buy.

If there is a need, it can be 3d printed in stainless steel now.

#7816 3 days ago

Swapped the exhaust fan on the CPU box today. The new fan moves air at a much lower sound level.

This is what I used:

amazon.com link »

The connector is not the same so it does require a change there. I simply cut off the connector from the stock fan and soldered that up to the new fan wires. Then heat shrink tube over your the soldered area. You can leave the yellow wire off.

#7817 3 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Swapped the exhaust fan on the CPU box today. The new fan moves air at a much lower sound level.
This is what I used:
amazon.com link »
The connector is not the same so it does require a change there. I simply cut off the connector from the stock fan and soldered that up to the new fan wires. Then heat shrink tube over your the soldered area. You can leave the yellow wire off.

I've wanting to do the same. As a PC modder / builder the noise from the fan put it on the "to do" list but noticed the connectors were different and was planning on getting the tool to crimp and connectors to match but your way is much cheaper...Thanks for the link

#7818 3 days ago

What is the max power draw on The Hobbit? I'm thinking on putting my pins on a smart power strip, but it has a fairly low limit.

#7819 3 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

I've wanting to do the same. As a PC modder / builder the noise from the fan put it on the "to do" list but noticed the connectors were different and was planning on getting the tool to crimp and connectors to match but your way is much cheaper...Thanks for the link

Ya its been on my list too. I have been doing the fan mod on my spike games and its a huge help. Finally got around to just knocking out the hobbit. Big difference as I have my desk right by the pins.

#7820 3 days ago
Quoted from bjorg:

What is the max power draw on The Hobbit? I'm thinking on putting my pins on a smart power strip, but it has a fairly low limit.

I would say just give it a shot man. If it trips the power strip when you get into into the fire or something along those lines then you know its too much.

#7821 2 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

I've wanting to do the same. As a PC modder / builder the noise from the fan put it on the "to do" list but noticed the connectors were different and was planning on getting the tool to crimp and connectors to match but your way is much cheaper...Thanks for the link

A real modder would liquid cool the coils. Only losers use air lol

#7822 2 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

A real modder would liquid cool the coils. Only losers use air lol

Agreed, lol

#7823 2 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

A real modder would liquid cool the coils. Only losers use air lol

Liquid cooled flipper coils!

#7824 2 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Liquid cooled flipper coils!

Right?! Weak flipper syndrome would never be a problem again. A few ideas:

Round copper heat exchange pipe wound around a paperless coil. I just question if a person could have it made in a thin enough diameter to have the necessary gap under the coil. Then there's the question of being able to wind it tight enough to make sufficient contact.
Or
Like a PC - making a liquid cooled heat exchange block that would sit ontop of the coil and anchored down by long screws through the plate (requires drilling) and then secured by a screw on the bottom.
Or
Just a plain aluminum heat exchange block that could be secured ontop of the coil with JB weld (since it does have thermal dissipation properties.
I'll never make this so if someone wants to take my ideas and run with it have at it!

#7825 2 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Right?! Weak flipper syndrome would never be a problem again. A few ideas:
Round copper heat exchange pipe wound around a paperless coil. I just question if a person could have it made in a thin enough diameter to have the necessary gap under the coil. Then there's the question of being able to wind it tight enough to make sufficient contact.
Or
Like a PC - making a liquid cooled heat exchange block that would sit ontop of the coil and anchored down by long screws through the plate (requires drilling) and then secured by a screw on the bottom.
Or
Just a plain aluminum heat exchange block that could be secured ontop of the coil with JB weld (since it does have thermal dissipation properties.
I'll never make this so if someone wants to take my ideas and run with it have at it!

Seems like an insulated heat sink would do just a good a job, and be a LOT less expensive/complicated!

#7826 2 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Right?! Weak flipper syndrome would never be a problem again. A few ideas:
Round copper heat exchange pipe wound around a paperless coil. I just question if a person could have it made in a thin enough diameter to have the necessary gap under the coil. Then there's the question of being able to wind it tight enough to make sufficient contact.
Or
Like a PC - making a liquid cooled heat exchange block that would sit ontop of the coil and anchored down by long screws through the plate (requires drilling) and then secured by a screw on the bottom.
Or
Just a plain aluminum heat exchange block that could be secured ontop of the coil with JB weld (since it does have thermal dissipation properties.
I'll never make this so if someone wants to take my ideas and run with it have at it!

I always wanted to try and fit a(R/C car) motor fan on a flipper coil. They look like they would fit and they are reasonably priced and lots to pick from.

#7827 1 day ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

I always wanted to try and fit a(R/C car) motor fan on a flipper coil. They look like they would fit and they are reasonably priced and lots to pick from.

something like this

ebay.com link

#7828 21 hours ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

something like this
ebay.com link

That’s what I was thinking. I know they make a difference in the R/C world...could work for flipper coils.

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