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Thanks for this. I'll take a look this weekend when I have some time.

Hello, everybody. So after seeing small plastic pieces falling down little by little during the last year in the bottom of the cabinet, it arrived at a point where one of the drop target wasn't able to stay in UP position. The reason is that there was no rest ledge plastic anymore to keep the target in position. I've tried to find a way to replace only those rest ledge plastics but it's not possible to buy them anywhere separately.

So here are the 3 items I've ordered directly from Jersey Jack. BTW, very great communication with the support and fast shipping!

2x (MAN & ELF) : JJP Part Number 10-008002-03
1x (DWARF) : JJP Part Number 10-008002-05

Total : 87.97 + tx & shipping.

This include the Metal Frame (Main Bracket Assembly) including black plastics.

As you can see, after 3 years of use, they are completely destroyed:
- MAN target bracket :
IMG-20191027-WA0012 (resized).jpg
- ELF target bracket :
IMG-20191027-WA0016 (resized).jpg

Side by side, one of the new bracket I've received with of of my old one.
IMG_20191027_102423 (resized).jpg

As the problem will probably restart in the future, my idea is to keep my old bracket and 3D print the black plastic and fix them with new rivets.

Fortunatelly, replacing the old frames with the new took a lot less time that I was expected. Calculate 30-40 minutes each.

So I am sharing you how to proceed. (Note that the procedure will be the same for the 5 drop targets with just more screws):

1) Disconnect the drop target connector
IMG_20191027_090400 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191027_090419 (resized).jpg

2) Remove those 4 screws
IMG_20191027_090807 (resized).jpg

3) Remove the 4 screws from under the playfield
IMG_20191027_091023 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191027_091030 (resized).jpg

4) Remove all washers and springs to release the targets. And remove the 3 white screws at the bottom. Try to not rotate the nuts independantly so your targets will stay correctly adjusted on the new bracket.
IMG_20191027_092217 (resized).jpg

5) Remove the 4 screws that were located behind the drop targets.
IMG-20191027-WA0016 (resized).jpg

6) Remove the 12 remaining screws for each coils and coil stops.
IMG_20191027_094800 (resized).jpg

7) Rebuild the kit on your new frame in reverse order and enjoy your game!!

So, as you can see, it's easy. It's just disappointing how this part of the game is unreliable. The rivets are probably too big and doesn't keep enough plastic on the top and the bottom to keep them enough strong. Will see if the new brackets get a better success!

Honestly, I don't think a person can complain about the factory part (not that you're complaining of course) Let's face it - the drop targets are an essential part of this game and take SEVERE abuse. I HIGHLY recommend that the FIRST time you have to remove a target bank, you remove every small coil mount screw and blue loctite em. These things can/will get loose and fall out. Tearing this bank apart is not exactly fun so do it!

Maybe you are right, but I can confirm that they were still solidly fixed and not moving at all. The 2 only weakness I think there are in those bank targets are the rest ledge plastics and the spring that needs to be replaced sometimes (but I don't care too much about springs because they are very easy to replace).

Its possible that they were riveted too tight and fractured.

The cracked ledge then failed after a short while.

I hope so

I installed the backbox amp from pinwoofer today into my Hobbit and WOW, what a huge difference. I'm really impressed. Install was dead simple with everything being plug and play. Took about 10 minutes to get everything hooked up.

That’s a great write up. I had the Bombur target ledge snap in half. I was able to glue it together and surprisingly it has lasted for quite a while. Those ledges are very thin and it’s amazing that they all don’t break often. No way to fix the ledges without taking the rivets out which looks to be nearly impossible. I was trying to find a way to reinforce them with a thicker plastics but with the rivets, couldn’t do. Kind of good to know that 3 bank targets are only about 30 bucks each.

Do they sell just the amp? Or did you get the speaker(s) also?

Yes, you can add either a backbox amp or a sub amp - both stand-alone. We offer custom kitting any way you want it.

However, to get the full experience for The Hobbit we recommend keeping the backbox speakers in play but with our amp, and adding a sub kit that includes our driver and sub amp.

From an OEM standpoint, the backbox speakers are well engineered and sound great. But, we recommend replacing the cabinet speaker with our dual voice-coil 8" driver.

The kit DeeGor has in his Hobbit is here:

https://pinwoofer.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fpinwoofer-powered-super-kit

For The Hobbit, select "JJP - Early Jersey Jack Pinball" under "PLATFORM AND DUAL AMP POWER HARNESS".

Hobbit is simple to install. Thanks

That would be a good idea - I had to replace my assembly a few years ago. I am sure that they will break again. I had hopes that JJP would be able to get better plastic- or maybe metal? - for the ledges so they don't break again. Apparently they still use the same black plastic ledges.

I would love someone to make a mod? or improved bracket that had better ledge pieces - or at least make them were you can replace the plastic ledges more easily.

A mod or a steel piece would be awesome, but you would have to rivet it all together...ugh!

It can be done, but a lot of work.

I thought it should have been steel all along - and not plastic. I was hoping JJP would have corrected it by now. Because if and when they do, that is the bracket I will buy.

If there is a need, it can be 3d printed in stainless steel now.

Swapped the exhaust fan on the CPU box today. The new fan moves air at a much lower sound level.

This is what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMG9K6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00

The connector is not the same so it does require a change there. I simply cut off the connector from the stock fan and soldered that up to the new fan wires. Then heat shrink tube over your the soldered area. You can leave the yellow wire off.

I've wanting to do the same. As a PC modder / builder the noise from the fan put it on the "to do" list but noticed the connectors were different and was planning on getting the tool to crimp and connectors to match but your way is much cheaper...Thanks for the link

What is the max power draw on The Hobbit? I'm thinking on putting my pins on a smart power strip, but it has a fairly low limit.

Ya its been on my list too. I have been doing the fan mod on my spike games and its a huge help. Finally got around to just knocking out the hobbit. Big difference as I have my desk right by the pins.

I would say just give it a shot man. If it trips the power strip when you get into into the fire or something along those lines then you know its too much.

A real modder would liquid cool the coils. Only losers use air lol

Agreed, lol

Liquid cooled flipper coils!

Right?! Weak flipper syndrome would never be a problem again. A few ideas:

Round copper heat exchange pipe wound around a paperless coil. I just question if a person could have it made in a thin enough diameter to have the necessary gap under the coil. Then there's the question of being able to wind it tight enough to make sufficient contact.
Or
Like a PC - making a liquid cooled heat exchange block that would sit ontop of the coil and anchored down by long screws through the plate (requires drilling) and then secured by a screw on the bottom.
Or
Just a plain aluminum heat exchange block that could be secured ontop of the coil with JB weld (since it does have thermal dissipation properties.
I'll never make this so if someone wants to take my ideas and run with it have at it!

Seems like an insulated heat sink would do just a good a job, and be a LOT less expensive/complicated!

I always wanted to try and fit a(R/C car) motor fan on a flipper coil. They look like they would fit and they are reasonably priced and lots to pick from.

something like this

ebay.com link: i

That’s what I was thinking. I know they make a difference in the R/C world...could work for flipper coils.

So I have one drop target that is stuttering when trying to kick up and ultimately failing took the assembly apart and did not see anything cleaned it for fun and tried to bend the metal a bit that drops it when it's up worked for about three games then acting up again - ultimately increased the power to the drop targets and the issue is gone but would rather that not be the long term solution any ideas what I am looking for?

Anyone know what voltage these run? I’m interested for my lotr too

Fiancé and I have been eyeing up buying a machine for the house for awhile. Might Pull the trigger on an le soon. Any thoughts on this for a first time buyer? We are both huge Tolkien fans so this and lotr have been on our short list.

I have owned both. They are different games. Both can be long playing with deep code, but the layouts and rules are pretty different. Both are great and you can't go wrong with either game.

I am a Tolkien fan as well and I really enjoy owning hobbit. It is really good for new players to have at least a little game time - if you are a good player you can play for a while. Which I think is a good thing because they have sooooo many modes to play and see. Really amazing sound and movie clips - my guests love to play it.

I used to have a LOTR next to a Hobbit LE...I sold the LOTR. Both are great games. Both have similar rules. Both have great theme immersion. But the video, callouts, music, lights, and larger breadth of rules is what made Hobbit the keeper. Plus the Hobbit wizard modes are just amazing. I played a LOTR on location about a month ago to see if I regretted anything. I don't. Destroying the ring is great, but killing Smaug is 10x more exciting. That is my opinion. But I will say both games are great and you will not go wrong with either choice.

Same here. I really liked LOTR for a while, but I eventually sold it. Never looked back. I sold the Hobbit last year some time. HUGE regrets. Bought it back. There's a lot of bitching about how the playfield is "Really open" but those people have clearly never played the game. It doesn't stay "wide open" for long. I love getting into a good rhythm smashing the ball up those ramps during multiball

I have owned both and still have TH (I'm a diehard JJP fan.) These games are very very different. Both are great and the best chance of getting the right one for your gameroom is to spend some serious time playing both. If this isn't practical then go with the one you are most physically attracted to. It would be great if you both feel the same way. Other things to consider: Both are pretty stable games but in general the Stern will be easier to service if necessary. LOTR is very well known and most people you meet in pinballandia will know and have played this. Everyone will know The Hobbit as well but fewer will have played it. If $ is an issue go with the best price. Both games will continue to be more popular than most and hopefully you will be able to recoup a good percentage of your purchase price when you decide to sell.

Ditto,
I also owned both and they are great games. I did sell my LOTR, but plan on keeping Hobbit for the long haul. Probably my favorite pin I own.

Good luck and be sure you play both.

I own both Hobbit and LOTR and I will never sell either one. They're extremely different games but both amazing in their own ways. If I could only own one however, it would have to be Hobbit. I have not played a game that is as immersive as TH.

Thank you all for the great feedback. Unfortunately it sold already. The hunt continues!

I only have resources right now to own 1 of the several games I would like to have. I really would like MB, or one of the others on my wishlist, but I just can't bring myself to sell it. So I am saving for pin number 2 and keeping TH.

Goronic - I fully support that decision!

Sorry, clarifying a previous question:

Does anyone know what voltage these little rc motor coolers run on?

Not sure if this will fit a flipper coil but says:4.8 - 7.4 volts

Castle (resized).png

A lot of the cars are 12v

As a huge Tolkien fan I also own both. Mirroring other sentiments, they are two VERY different games. TH gets my attention WAY more because of the variety of modes and the sound and light show just draws you in. I rarely play LOTR anymore. NOT because it's older in my collection, but because TH is just more fun. And oddly enough both titles seem to have comparable resale value these days which is just sad. I do believe TH resale value has flat lined so if you take care of your used purchase you'll get most if not all your money back. I'd say a safe figure to throw out is the NIB owners are taking a $2500 to $3000 bath when they sell.

Darn! I was counting on a fire sale for that Weta Smaug bust of yours.

Quick question; I tried my headphone jack for the first time yesterday and noticed 2 things. First, the sound from the speakers didn't cut out when the headphones were plugged in (is this normal? Can it be changed?) and second, the volume on the headphones was quite low.

Anyone know if I'm just missing something in the setting for the headphones?

Thanks,
Ryan

The jack does NOT disable the cab speakers upon insertion.

There is no setting.

The bottom button in he headphone jack assembly, mutes the cab speakers. It lights up. Press it.

The other buttons raise and lower the volume based on the inside door volume settings. Raise up the main volume inside for a bit more sound.

Get the pinnovators volume plate if you want to adjust the volume easier.

It's easy to install and really nice.

I put them on all my games.

Hi,
Could anyone “Throw some Light” on the the 4 led Mini spot lights that overlook the pop-up beasts please. I don’t think I’ve ever seen these illuminate and they don’t appear to operate in any LED light tests ?
There’s no other issues with lighting and I’ve checked all connections and everything looks good

Many thanks
Jamie K

D42E605B-56D9-49C5-A6C0-0C8B2251718A (resized).jpeg

96A279BA-D769-4927-A255-614370D13582 (resized).jpeg

The bulbs (LEDs) are probably dead , I have had issues with spotlights on all my jjp games