Quoted from pineal:

Does “dead cradle” mean flipper engaged and ball at rest? Because that’s what I’m doing, and hitting it pretty reliably.

Quoted from CLEllison:

Yep. Your titans must be thinner than regular rubbers. And come to thing about that, that's actually too bad because to pass from flipper to flipper you dead cradle a ball and flip and the ball will ricochet / bounce off the sling rubber over to the other flipper. I'm sure there's a fancy term for that but I dont know. I just like pinball hah!

Quoted from pineal:

Are you guys able to hit the right hole from the top flipper? I’ve done it a few times on accident but don’t really have an approach for it. Also, is anyone able to reliably hit the ramp from the top flipper?

Quoted from pineal:

Are you guys able to hit the right hole from the top flipper? I’ve done it a few times on accident but don’t really have an approach for it. Also, is anyone able to reliably hit the ramp from the top flipper?

Quoted from VALIS666:

Just got a new Smaug edition this morning (along with Wonka). Such a beautiful machine. Just need Dialed In (around Xmas, I'm thinking) and hopefully a Pirates turns up near me someday for less than a small fortune or they do a re-run, and my JJP obsession will be complete. Gotta give it up for my local boys (I grew up down the road from Lakewood), even in an era with a lot of flashy, eye-catching tables, the JJPs are second to no one in looks.
I shit a Warg-sized brick when I turned it on and after the boot sequence only the spotlights came on, but reseating everything on the LED boards and to the computer box got the LEDs back and working first try, thankfully. Anyway, just one question: The ball eject next to Smaug's head (it drops the ball to the hole underneath) doesn't eject well. Probably just needs a little bending here or there, or maybe a tightening or loosening of screws because all it takes is the slightest nudge to free the ball, but I need to do it every time it's up there. I assume this is a relatively common problem with a common solution before I go bending something I shouldn't, but searching this thread for "Smaug" turns up a billion unrelated items, obviously. I spent a lot of time leveling the game, so I don't think it's that.

Quoted from VALIS666:

Just got a new Smaug edition this morning (along with Wonka). Such a beautiful machine. Just need Dialed In (around Xmas, I'm thinking) and hopefully a Pirates turns up near me someday for less than a small fortune or they do a re-run, and my JJP obsession will be complete. Gotta give it up for my local boys (I grew up down the road from Lakewood), even in an era with a lot of flashy, eye-catching tables, the JJPs are second to no one in looks.
I shit a Warg-sized brick when I turned it on and after the boot sequence only the spotlights came on, but reseating everything on the LED boards and to the computer box got the LEDs back and working first try, thankfully. Anyway, just one question: The ball eject next to Smaug's head (it drops the ball to the hole underneath) doesn't eject well. Probably just needs a little bending here or there, or maybe a tightening or loosening of screws because all it takes is the slightest nudge to free the ball, but I need to do it every time it's up there. I assume this is a relatively common problem with a common solution before I go bending something I shouldn't, but searching this thread for "Smaug" turns up a billion unrelated items, obviously. I spent a lot of time leveling the game, so I don't think it's that.

Quoted from CLEllison:

My left vuk .... machine has some "smart" technology and if the ball eject fails it automatically bumps up voltage temporarily. (Or I'm on some drug that I'm not aware of) lol. What I believe to be the actual issue is the upkick wire guide is angled/tilted introducing resistance. Maybe by adding a washer (or three) under the back wire guide mount it might help. Start by jacking the coil power up though.

Quoted from CLEllison:

And maybe I'm wrong here but it's almost like the machine has some "smart" technology and if the ball eject fails it automatically bumps up voltage temporarily.

Quoted from CLEllison:

My left vuk has always been (somewhat) prone to upkick failures. You can increase the coil power in the system menu. And maybe I'm wrong here but it's almost like the machine has some "smart" technology and if the ball eject fails it automatically bumps up voltage temporarily. (Or I'm on some drug that I'm not aware of) lol. What I believe to be the actual issue is the upkick wire guide is angled/tilted introducing resistance. Maybe by adding a washer (or three) under the back wire guide mount it might help. Start by jacking the coil power up though.

Quoted from jlatko:

Guys, new LE owner. After a couple games on my NIB table, the W drop target in the DWARF bank no longer drops. Probably pretty common. Easy fix for maintenance newb like me? Thanks for any suggestions.

Quoted from indybru:

It's probably the spring came off , easy fix . Find it pull it so you can make loop on each end and reattached it .

Quoted from indybru:

It's probably the spring came off , easy fix . Find it pull it so you can make loop on each end and reattached it .

Quoted from VillaThrills:

Also any source

Quoted from indybru:

It's probably the spring came off , easy fix . Find it pull it so you can make loop on each end and reattached it .

Quoted from psexton:

I made an Erebor cover for the spotlight in the upper left.
[quoted image]

Quoted from gordonshumway:

Been getting a switch failure on boot. Says "LH & RH Flipper EOS" dedicated switch failure... The flippers work fine. What is my problem and how do I repair it?
Thanks,

Quoted from gordonshumway:

For that matter. What do the EOS switches actually do? Seems the flippers are doing what their job is...

Quoted from gordonshumway:

Thanks for the great video and link! I checked out both switches and they both are adjusted well and I dragged some emery through both. They were clean. (This machine is only 8 months old NIB). I then checked them both with a multi-meter and they both make/break correct at full swing. I was tempted to try and read voltage on the three posts connected to each, but was afraid I might short something out... I suspect that because both SW's are doing the same that we might be into a relay issue? Where should I go from here?
Thanks

Quoted from gordonshumway:

Thanks for the great video and link! I checked out both switches and they both are adjusted well and I dragged some emery through both. They were clean. (This machine is only 8 months old NIB). I then checked them both with a multi-meter and they both make/break correct at full swing. I was tempted to try and read voltage on the three posts connected to each, but was afraid I might short something out... I suspect that because both SW's are doing the same that we might be into a relay issue? Where should I go from here?
Thanks

Quoted from nogoodnames222:

Hi guys, new owner of Hobbit here, purchased from the original owner (an arcade) that had operated it since January. Machine was made in August 2018, and I'm running the newest software, 3.10.
I've been having an issue with LED's 'freezing' after the pin has been on for an extended period of time (a couple hours or so). This can happen during gameplay or attract mode, the lights will just quit changing colors and will stay on whatever color happened to be lit up at the time of the issue. The game continues to otherwise function fine, with sounds/animations/scoring all working, it's purely an LED issue (but does make the game essentially unplayable). Game returns to normal after being reset.
I've searched and seen some other people with the same issue but haven't seen a solution. Any ideas? I PM'ed LTG but he had no suggestions. As this is my first 'nice' game it's been a little disheartening how many issues have come up (I've had the glass out almost every day since I purchased it 10 days ago), but I can at least wrap my head around the other problems, I'm at a loss on this one.
Thanks for any help.

Quoted from tronlover:

I bought my Hobbit LE about a month ago from a guy who had less than 50 plays on it...and it's number 14/1500, so early boards. It has this same issue of all LED's lights freezing but triggers being playable until a hard reset. The problem is it went from occurring after 30+ min of being on to 2+ min of being on recently. Following this thread I see it "might" be a BAG board but wasn't sure if I missed anything else in the 150+ pages or other threads. Anyone have a solid answer outside BAG replacement?

Quoted from tronlover:

I bought my Hobbit LE about a month ago from a guy who had less than 50 plays on it...and it's number 14/1500, so early boards. It has this same issue of all LED's lights freezing but triggers being playable until a hard reset. The problem is it went from occurring after 30+ min of being on to 2+ min of being on recently. Following this thread I see it "might" be a BAG board but wasn't sure if I missed anything else in the 150+ pages or other threads. Anyone have a solid answer outside BAG replacement?

Quoted from pineal:

Are you guys able to hit the right hole from the top flipper? I’ve done it a few times on accident but don’t really have an approach for it. Also, is anyone able to reliably hit the ramp from the top flipper?

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Heck no. As was posted earlier, maybe by a fluke - but that upper flipper seems mostly best used for cross-playfield horizontal shots ( like to the Dwarf drops) , hitting the Orc or Goblin mech, or for blocking a drain. I don't think I've ever hit the ramp all the way from the UF

Quoted from tronlover:

I bought my Hobbit LE about a month ago from a guy who had less than 50 plays on it...and it's number 14/1500, so early boards. It has this same issue of all LED's lights freezing but triggers being playable until a hard reset. The problem is it went from occurring after 30+ min of being on to 2+ min of being on recently. Following this thread I see it "might" be a BAG board but wasn't sure if I missed anything else in the 150+ pages or other threads. Anyone have a solid answer outside BAG replacement?

Quoted from screaminr:

My le NIB is factory set up . I can backhand both the VUK's , and both ramps and the right vuk with the upper flipper . Not whenever I want , otherwise I would have a lot higher scores , but it is possible .

Quoted from nogoodnames222:

Hey, unfortunately I can't say with complete confidence if the lights freezing was fixed by replacing the BAG board, but I never saw that particular problem after I replaced mine. I continued having other light issues after that, they were caused by a bad ethernet cord going to one of the LED Boards. I would check those connections/cords first as a BAG board is a couple hundred bucks.
Since I'm finally following up, my other issues (searching for balls, drop targets triggering randomly, and more) seemed to have been caused by a broken ground wire inside one of the power connections/plugs. I eventually had an arcade-operator friend go through the machine for me and he was able to get everything sorted out (and I learned to not trust everything a seller tells you, zero chance this machine was working properly before).
Good luck with the machine.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yeah, a lot of operators sell a game after it needs work, or problematic enough that it isn't worth their time.
Most times the problems can be sorted though with a little patience.

Quoted from Goronic:

Agree, but for God’s sake be honest to the buyer

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Honesty?
Cash on the glass baby...!
Lol

Quoted from fnosm:

I left my Hobbit on for 8+ hours yesterday and halfway through a long game towards the end of this time the sound started cutting out and getting quieter.
None of the call outs were playing correctly. I didn't notice any video issues but I wasn't watching the videos I was going for the GC score. I had to settle for High Score #2. After my game I power cycled the machine and started a new game. All the sound issues seemed to have been resolved by the reboot.
Does anyone have any similar experiences or know what might be causing this and how to correct it?

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Yep, there is an issue with the underlying audio driver used in recent updates. This isn't a driver JJP wrote - it's standard driver for the version of linux the game is based on. If you watch carefully, the game reboots itself after 24 hours to minimize this.

Quoted from MarZ_78:

Does anyone know a good fix for narrow glass? My glass is narrower than the cabinet guides by 1/8" to 1/4". I thought there was a kit that we could buy but cant find info on it now.

Quoted from CLEllison:

Apparently, if you contact JJP they will send you the glass extenders for free.

Quoted from Goronic:

If you need to have them a bit wider will that also help reduce the play field noise a bit?

Quoted from ikrananka:

Does anyone else's Hobbit make lots of kinda crackling noises through the speakers during the attract mode (after a game has finished and the music fades out)? I get silence in the attract mode when the machine is first turned on but crackling after a game.