(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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#7601 57 days ago
Quoted from pineal:

Does “dead cradle” mean flipper engaged and ball at rest? Because that’s what I’m doing, and hitting it pretty reliably.

Yep. Your titans must be thinner than regular rubbers. And come to thing about that, that's actually too bad because to pass from flipper to flipper you dead cradle a ball and flip and the ball will ricochet / bounce off the sling rubber over to the other flipper. I'm sure there's a fancy term for that but I dont know. I just like pinball hah!

#7602 57 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Yep. Your titans must be thinner than regular rubbers. And come to thing about that, that's actually too bad because to pass from flipper to flipper you dead cradle a ball and flip and the ball will ricochet / bounce off the sling rubber over to the other flipper. I'm sure there's a fancy term for that but I dont know. I just like pinball hah!

I beleive that to be called a post-pass.

#7603 57 days ago

I can post past on my machine with no issue. It's just that backhand shot to the right hole from a trap, always wants to rattle out and reject.

#7604 57 days ago

I’m able to post pass on my machine as well. I’ve been doing it a lot by accident trying to backhand the hole. Too early and it either bounces off the post or hits the slingshot. Too late and it’s in the barrels or on the mystery target. The difference is literally millimeters on the flipper. I hit the left hole from a dead cradle off the left flipper a few times too. I haven’t been doing left as much because the drops are usually in the way. Lol. I’ll keep working on backhanding in motion too. With both of those shots dialed in I may be able to get to BOTFA some day. Mwahahaha (rubs hands together)

Are you guys able to hit the right hole from the top flipper? I’ve done it a few times on accident but don’t really have an approach for it. Also, is anyone able to reliably hit the ramp from the top flipper?

#7605 57 days ago
Quoted from pineal:

Are you guys able to hit the right hole from the top flipper? I’ve done it a few times on accident but don’t really have an approach for it. Also, is anyone able to reliably hit the ramp from the top flipper?

No on both... more of a fluke usually. Desperation shot is if the orc mech is up I can sometimes bounce off the side of that to the vuk. For hitting the ramp that's almost always a fluke as well.

And yes! Post pass thank you

#7606 57 days ago

Just got a new Smaug edition this morning (along with Wonka). Such a beautiful machine. Just need Dialed In (around Xmas, I'm thinking) and hopefully a Pirates turns up near me someday for less than a small fortune or they do a re-run, and my JJP obsession will be complete. Gotta give it up for my local boys (I grew up down the road from Lakewood), even in an era with a lot of flashy, eye-catching tables, the JJPs are second to no one in looks.

I shit a Warg-sized brick when I turned it on and after the boot sequence only the spotlights came on, but reseating everything on the LED boards and to the computer box got the LEDs back and working first try, thankfully. Anyway, just one question: The ball eject next to Smaug's head (it drops the ball to the hole underneath) doesn't eject well. Probably just needs a little bending here or there, or maybe a tightening or loosening of screws because all it takes is the slightest nudge to free the ball, but I need to do it every time it's up there. I assume this is a relatively common problem with a common solution before I go bending something I shouldn't, but searching this thread for "Smaug" turns up a billion unrelated items, obviously. I spent a lot of time leveling the game, so I don't think it's that.

#7607 57 days ago
Quoted from pineal:

Are you guys able to hit the right hole from the top flipper? I’ve done it a few times on accident but don’t really have an approach for it. Also, is anyone able to reliably hit the ramp from the top flipper?

Heck no. As was posted earlier, maybe by a fluke - but that upper flipper seems mostly best used for cross-playfield horizontal shots ( like to the Dwarf drops) , hitting the Orc or Goblin mech, or for blocking a drain. I don't think I've ever hit the ramp all the way from the UF

#7608 57 days ago
Quoted from VALIS666:

Just got a new Smaug edition this morning (along with Wonka). Such a beautiful machine. Just need Dialed In (around Xmas, I'm thinking) and hopefully a Pirates turns up near me someday for less than a small fortune or they do a re-run, and my JJP obsession will be complete. Gotta give it up for my local boys (I grew up down the road from Lakewood), even in an era with a lot of flashy, eye-catching tables, the JJPs are second to no one in looks.
I shit a Warg-sized brick when I turned it on and after the boot sequence only the spotlights came on, but reseating everything on the LED boards and to the computer box got the LEDs back and working first try, thankfully. Anyway, just one question: The ball eject next to Smaug's head (it drops the ball to the hole underneath) doesn't eject well. Probably just needs a little bending here or there, or maybe a tightening or loosening of screws because all it takes is the slightest nudge to free the ball, but I need to do it every time it's up there. I assume this is a relatively common problem with a common solution before I go bending something I shouldn't, but searching this thread for "Smaug" turns up a billion unrelated items, obviously. I spent a lot of time leveling the game, so I don't think it's that.

Check the thread,

Hobbit setup tweaks and adjustments maybe.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-setup-tweaks-and-adjustments

Some helpful info on dialing in your game.

#7609 57 days ago
Quoted from VALIS666:

Just got a new Smaug edition this morning (along with Wonka). Such a beautiful machine. Just need Dialed In (around Xmas, I'm thinking) and hopefully a Pirates turns up near me someday for less than a small fortune or they do a re-run, and my JJP obsession will be complete. Gotta give it up for my local boys (I grew up down the road from Lakewood), even in an era with a lot of flashy, eye-catching tables, the JJPs are second to no one in looks.
I shit a Warg-sized brick when I turned it on and after the boot sequence only the spotlights came on, but reseating everything on the LED boards and to the computer box got the LEDs back and working first try, thankfully. Anyway, just one question: The ball eject next to Smaug's head (it drops the ball to the hole underneath) doesn't eject well. Probably just needs a little bending here or there, or maybe a tightening or loosening of screws because all it takes is the slightest nudge to free the ball, but I need to do it every time it's up there. I assume this is a relatively common problem with a common solution before I go bending something I shouldn't, but searching this thread for "Smaug" turns up a billion unrelated items, obviously. I spent a lot of time leveling the game, so I don't think it's that.

My left vuk has always been (somewhat) prone to upkick failures. You can increase the coil power in the system menu. And maybe I'm wrong here but it's almost like the machine has some "smart" technology and if the ball eject fails it automatically bumps up voltage temporarily. (Or I'm on some drug that I'm not aware of) lol. What I believe to be the actual issue is the upkick wire guide is angled/tilted introducing resistance. Maybe by adding a washer (or three) under the back wire guide mount it might help. Start by jacking the coil power up though.

#7610 57 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

My left vuk .... machine has some "smart" technology and if the ball eject fails it automatically bumps up voltage temporarily. (Or I'm on some drug that I'm not aware of) lol. What I believe to be the actual issue is the upkick wire guide is angled/tilted introducing resistance. Maybe by adding a washer (or three) under the back wire guide mount it might help. Start by jacking the coil power up though.

This! I agree - game definitely bumps up power to get that ball out of the VUK on an as-needed basis. Drives me crazy, though, since sometime it takes five times to get it out of there and I have TIMERS going!! Really disrupts flow, too. Putting my eye right on that wireform, it's not obvious where the resistance is coming from. I have my coil power nearly at max. Hope someone comes out with a better fix for this.

#7611 57 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

And maybe I'm wrong here but it's almost like the machine has some "smart" technology and if the ball eject fails it automatically bumps up voltage temporarily.

I believe that is in the original Williams programming. If something kicks and doesn't produce results, the next two or three kicks increase in strength a little more each time.

LTG : )

#7612 57 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

My left vuk has always been (somewhat) prone to upkick failures. You can increase the coil power in the system menu. And maybe I'm wrong here but it's almost like the machine has some "smart" technology and if the ball eject fails it automatically bumps up voltage temporarily. (Or I'm on some drug that I'm not aware of) lol. What I believe to be the actual issue is the upkick wire guide is angled/tilted introducing resistance. Maybe by adding a washer (or three) under the back wire guide mount it might help. Start by jacking the coil power up though.

Also, the VUK (for some reason usually the left) is not always aligned correctly. The mech has some play - may find that if you adjust the actual alignment things go through perfectly

#7613 50 days ago

Guys, new LE owner. After a couple games on my NIB table, the W drop target in the DWARF bank no longer drops. Probably pretty common. Easy fix for maintenance newb like me? Thanks for any suggestions.

#7614 50 days ago
Quoted from jlatko:

Guys, new LE owner. After a couple games on my NIB table, the W drop target in the DWARF bank no longer drops. Probably pretty common. Easy fix for maintenance newb like me? Thanks for any suggestions.

It's probably the spring came off , easy fix . Find it pull it so you can make loop on each end and reattached it .

#7615 50 days ago
Quoted from indybru:

It's probably the spring came off , easy fix . Find it pull it so you can make loop on each end and reattached it .

Thanks, I'll try tomorrow.

#7616 50 days ago
Quoted from indybru:

It's probably the spring came off , easy fix . Find it pull it so you can make loop on each end and reattached it .

This is what it will very likely be. I’ve had to do it a few times

#7617 50 days ago

So Smaug and shaker went out. See this...

Guessing I had a short. Just want to make sure that makes sense.

Also any source for the 470ohm resistor next to it? R709 - part 121-0470-2H4 Resistor, Leaded, 470Ω, 2W, 5%
Looks like a Panasonic?

3AB4FCA1-9B0A-47E3-A410-199B753BCACA (resized).jpeg

#7619 49 days ago
Quoted from indybru:

It's probably the spring came off , easy fix . Find it pull it so you can make loop on each end and reattached it .

That was it. All fixed. Thanks.

#7620 49 days ago

I made an Erebor cover for the spotlight in the upper left.
20190930_142733 (resized).jpg

#7621 48 days ago
Quoted from psexton:

I made an Erebor cover for the spotlight in the upper left.
[quoted image]

Fantastic job on color matching!

#7622 48 days ago

Been getting a switch failure on boot. Says "LH & RH Flipper EOS" dedicated switch failure... The flippers work fine. What is my problem and how do I repair it?

Thanks,

#7623 48 days ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

Been getting a switch failure on boot. Says "LH & RH Flipper EOS" dedicated switch failure... The flippers work fine. What is my problem and how do I repair it?
Thanks,

The system hasn't seen those switches closed in too long of a time so it has thrown that error. Sounds like your end of stroke switches need to be adjusted.

#7624 48 days ago

I thought that was it. I get it all the time on the plumb, by that is easy, just move the plumb. How do I exercise the EOS?

#7625 48 days ago

For that matter. What do the EOS switches actually do? Seems the flippers are doing what their job is...

#7626 48 days ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

For that matter. What do the EOS switches actually do? Seems the flippers are doing what their job is...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-is-an-end-of-stroke-switch-find-out-cool-animation

#7627 48 days ago

Thanks for the great video and link! I checked out both switches and they both are adjusted well and I dragged some emery through both. They were clean. (This machine is only 8 months old NIB). I then checked them both with a multi-meter and they both make/break correct at full swing. I was tempted to try and read voltage on the three posts connected to each, but was afraid I might short something out... I suspect that because both SW's are doing the same that we might be into a relay issue? Where should I go from here?

Thanks

#7628 48 days ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

Thanks for the great video and link! I checked out both switches and they both are adjusted well and I dragged some emery through both. They were clean. (This machine is only 8 months old NIB). I then checked them both with a multi-meter and they both make/break correct at full swing. I was tempted to try and read voltage on the three posts connected to each, but was afraid I might short something out... I suspect that because both SW's are doing the same that we might be into a relay issue? Where should I go from here?
Thanks

Emery cloth????

Might have destroyed the gold plated contacts. Just use rough paper or a new dollar bill to clean contacts on modern games.

Do the switches activate in the switch test?

#7629 48 days ago

Both D01 and D02 both are red on the test page (stands to reason as simply making and breaking would extinguish the error). I close the door and activate both flippers and all that registers is the flipper itself. As far as emery goes I didn't honk on it, just a quck pull through. The switches make and break just fine (tested with multi-meter). Is there a relay associated with the switches? Again, now I'm stumped.

#7630 48 days ago

Broken Black/White wire on Lower Left flipper. Soldiered it and back to the game! Now if I could just break 1 Million.

This was the fourth broken wire in a NIB game. From the looks of the soldier job on many other spots, this won't be the last. Not sure if it's this game or JJP in general.

Thanks Lloyd for the service. Wish I knew 1% of what you do.

#7631 47 days ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

Thanks for the great video and link! I checked out both switches and they both are adjusted well and I dragged some emery through both. They were clean. (This machine is only 8 months old NIB). I then checked them both with a multi-meter and they both make/break correct at full swing. I was tempted to try and read voltage on the three posts connected to each, but was afraid I might short something out... I suspect that because both SW's are doing the same that we might be into a relay issue? Where should I go from here?
Thanks

A voltmeter cant short stuff out, it has almost infinite impedance.

#7632 45 days ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

Hi guys, new owner of Hobbit here, purchased from the original owner (an arcade) that had operated it since January. Machine was made in August 2018, and I'm running the newest software, 3.10.
I've been having an issue with LED's 'freezing' after the pin has been on for an extended period of time (a couple hours or so). This can happen during gameplay or attract mode, the lights will just quit changing colors and will stay on whatever color happened to be lit up at the time of the issue. The game continues to otherwise function fine, with sounds/animations/scoring all working, it's purely an LED issue (but does make the game essentially unplayable). Game returns to normal after being reset.
I've searched and seen some other people with the same issue but haven't seen a solution. Any ideas? I PM'ed LTG but he had no suggestions. As this is my first 'nice' game it's been a little disheartening how many issues have come up (I've had the glass out almost every day since I purchased it 10 days ago), but I can at least wrap my head around the other problems, I'm at a loss on this one.
Thanks for any help.

I bought my Hobbit LE about a month ago from a guy who had less than 50 plays on it...and it's number 14/1500, so early boards. It has this same issue of all LED's lights freezing but triggers being playable until a hard reset. The problem is it went from occurring after 30+ min of being on to 2+ min of being on recently. Following this thread I see it "might" be a BAG board but wasn't sure if I missed anything else in the 150+ pages or other threads. Anyone have a solid answer outside BAG replacement?

#7633 45 days ago
Quoted from tronlover:

I bought my Hobbit LE about a month ago from a guy who had less than 50 plays on it...and it's number 14/1500, so early boards. It has this same issue of all LED's lights freezing but triggers being playable until a hard reset. The problem is it went from occurring after 30+ min of being on to 2+ min of being on recently. Following this thread I see it "might" be a BAG board but wasn't sure if I missed anything else in the 150+ pages or other threads. Anyone have a solid answer outside BAG replacement?

That fixed my issue and have had no issues since. Replaced 2 years ago

#7634 45 days ago
Quoted from tronlover:

I bought my Hobbit LE about a month ago from a guy who had less than 50 plays on it...and it's number 14/1500, so early boards. It has this same issue of all LED's lights freezing but triggers being playable until a hard reset. The problem is it went from occurring after 30+ min of being on to 2+ min of being on recently. Following this thread I see it "might" be a BAG board but wasn't sure if I missed anything else in the 150+ pages or other threads. Anyone have a solid answer outside BAG replacement?

Only occuring when playing or in attract mode wonder if a wire has pulled and is shorting to metal I had other issues but that was the source of my BAG problems

#7635 45 days ago
Quoted from pineal:

Are you guys able to hit the right hole from the top flipper? I’ve done it a few times on accident but don’t really have an approach for it. Also, is anyone able to reliably hit the ramp from the top flipper?

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Heck no. As was posted earlier, maybe by a fluke - but that upper flipper seems mostly best used for cross-playfield horizontal shots ( like to the Dwarf drops) , hitting the Orc or Goblin mech, or for blocking a drain. I don't think I've ever hit the ramp all the way from the UF

My le NIB is factory set up . I can backhand both the VUK's , and both ramps and the right vuk with the upper flipper . Not whenever I want , otherwise I would have a lot higher scores , but it is possible .

#7636 45 days ago
Quoted from tronlover:

I bought my Hobbit LE about a month ago from a guy who had less than 50 plays on it...and it's number 14/1500, so early boards. It has this same issue of all LED's lights freezing but triggers being playable until a hard reset. The problem is it went from occurring after 30+ min of being on to 2+ min of being on recently. Following this thread I see it "might" be a BAG board but wasn't sure if I missed anything else in the 150+ pages or other threads. Anyone have a solid answer outside BAG replacement?

Hey, unfortunately I can't say with complete confidence if the lights freezing was fixed by replacing the BAG board, but I never saw that particular problem after I replaced mine. I continued having other light issues after that, they were caused by a bad ethernet cord going to one of the LED Boards. I would check those connections/cords first as a BAG board is a couple hundred bucks.

Since I'm finally following up, my other issues (searching for balls, drop targets triggering randomly, and more) seemed to have been caused by a broken ground wire inside one of the power connections/plugs. I eventually had an arcade-operator friend go through the machine for me and he was able to get everything sorted out (and I learned to not trust everything a seller tells you, zero chance this machine was working properly before).

Good luck with the machine.

#7637 45 days ago
Quoted from screaminr:

My le NIB is factory set up . I can backhand both the VUK's , and both ramps and the right vuk with the upper flipper . Not whenever I want , otherwise I would have a lot higher scores , but it is possible .

Awesome !

#7638 45 days ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

Hey, unfortunately I can't say with complete confidence if the lights freezing was fixed by replacing the BAG board, but I never saw that particular problem after I replaced mine. I continued having other light issues after that, they were caused by a bad ethernet cord going to one of the LED Boards. I would check those connections/cords first as a BAG board is a couple hundred bucks.
Since I'm finally following up, my other issues (searching for balls, drop targets triggering randomly, and more) seemed to have been caused by a broken ground wire inside one of the power connections/plugs. I eventually had an arcade-operator friend go through the machine for me and he was able to get everything sorted out (and I learned to not trust everything a seller tells you, zero chance this machine was working properly before).
Good luck with the machine.

Yeah, a lot of operators sell a game after it needs work, or problematic enough that it isn't worth their time.

Most times the problems can be sorted though with a little patience.

#7639 44 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yeah, a lot of operators sell a game after it needs work, or problematic enough that it isn't worth their time.
Most times the problems can be sorted though with a little patience.

Agree, but for God’s sake be honest to the buyer

#7640 44 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

Agree, but for God’s sake be honest to the buyer

Honesty?
Cash on the glass baby...!
Lol

#7641 44 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Honesty?
Cash on the glass baby...!
Lol

Yes. I treat every buyer as if it were me regarding the condition so they know exactly what they are getting. Pricing however I try to keep in my favor

#7642 42 days ago

I left my Hobbit on for 8+ hours yesterday and halfway through a long game towards the end of this time the sound started cutting out and getting quieter.
None of the call outs were playing correctly. I didn't notice any video issues but I wasn't watching the videos I was going for the GC score. I had to settle for High Score #2. After my game I power cycled the machine and started a new game. All the sound issues seemed to have been resolved by the reboot.
Does anyone have any similar experiences or know what might be causing this and how to correct it?

#7643 42 days ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I left my Hobbit on for 8+ hours yesterday and halfway through a long game towards the end of this time the sound started cutting out and getting quieter.
None of the call outs were playing correctly. I didn't notice any video issues but I wasn't watching the videos I was going for the GC score. I had to settle for High Score #2. After my game I power cycled the machine and started a new game. All the sound issues seemed to have been resolved by the reboot.
Does anyone have any similar experiences or know what might be causing this and how to correct it?

Yep, there is an issue with the underlying audio driver used in recent updates. This isn't a driver JJP wrote - it's standard driver for the version of linux the game is based on. If you watch carefully, the game reboots itself after 24 hours to minimize this.

#7644 42 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Yep, there is an issue with the underlying audio driver used in recent updates. This isn't a driver JJP wrote - it's standard driver for the version of linux the game is based on. If you watch carefully, the game reboots itself after 24 hours to minimize this.

Thanks for your post. I am glad to know it isn't something more serious.

#7645 42 days ago

Does anyone know a good fix for narrow glass? My glass is narrower than the cabinet guides by 1/8" to 1/4". I thought there was a kit that we could buy but cant find info on it now.

#7646 41 days ago
Quoted from MarZ_78:

Does anyone know a good fix for narrow glass? My glass is narrower than the cabinet guides by 1/8" to 1/4". I thought there was a kit that we could buy but cant find info on it now.

Apparently, if you contact JJP they will send you the glass extenders for free.

#7647 41 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Apparently, if you contact JJP they will send you the glass extenders for free.

If you need to have them a bit wider will that also help reduce the play field noise a bit?

#7648 40 days ago
Quoted from Goronic:

If you need to have them a bit wider will that also help reduce the play field noise a bit?

If you're referring to stand up target noise and beast mech noise.... no. There is no quieting of those components.

#7649 40 days ago

Does anyone else's Hobbit make lots of kinda crackling noises through the speakers during the attract mode (after a game has finished and the music fades out)? I get silence in the attract mode when the machine is first turned on but crackling after a game.

#7650 39 days ago
Quoted from ikrananka:

Does anyone else's Hobbit make lots of kinda crackling noises through the speakers during the attract mode (after a game has finished and the music fades out)? I get silence in the attract mode when the machine is first turned on but crackling after a game.

It's odd that it's inconsistent, but my machine had a ton of interference noise on the speakers (all the time) when I got it. A $10 ground loop noise isolator off Amazon completely got rid of the problem for me, I'd give that a shot before anything else.

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