Where are the protectors. Do they just pop off? Snap off? Twist? Sorry. My first jjp game. I must say... being a current owner of games like ghostbusters. Totan. Indiana Jones Williams, I have myself second guessing my collection and wondering why I don’t have more jjp games. Simply awesome.

Peel off the mylar disks on top of the roll overs.

Beast mechs easily adjusted.

welcome here JJP's are greats, hard to return to dot's :/

Has anyone had problems with the pop ups, well, not popping up? I've had to do some service to the warg pop up over the last few months, and I thought I'd fixed this problem when I replaced a bad up/down sw. All the parts seem to be working independently, but in game, the damn dog tries and fails to pop up!

slighly unscrew the warp assy, to see how it works with more space, if it's better, find the good location of the assy and refix it

Are you saying the mech doesnt come up at all or it does pop up but then goes back down? If it's the latter, one of the leaf connections is registering as a hit and the machine assumes it's legit. Adjust the switch. Also, new doesn't necessarily mean good. Everything eventually fails. Since you replaced the switch it's possible the solder connection broke. If the wires are still attached use a multi meter and test that switch.

I'm not sure I understand what the warp assy is, I'm also not in front of the game at the moment. I will be taking a look at it this afternoon on location, hopefully I will see the adjustment you're talking about, if not hopefully it's listed in the manual!!

It tries and fails, usually popping up about a quarter or half inch, after a few tries it stops.

Thanks to both of you for your reply!

Any suggestions on a Smaug head movement issue. Head is not turning from side to side. In test mode, both optos are unlit. If head is turned manually, each opto lights up when the head reaches the the appropriate location. Mouth is moving properly and eyes are lit, but motor doesn't seem to be engaging for movement. All connections to the motor seem tight, is the motor just shot?

Oh sorry read warg not warp, warg assy is the entire pop mechanism of the warg. With hand it must be easy to move up and down, compare with another working beast pop assy

Please go to Tests - Devices , and see if you have power to the motor. If so then bad motor, if not, start the other way to it's driver board.

LTG : )

Haha, after thinking about it I figured that's what you meant. I ended up taking apart the whole assy, still not exactly sure what was causing it to bind. I did use a little dry film lube on the back of the plate where the black metal warg target housing slides. It seems to be working good now. Thanks again!

JJP pins are quite impressive to play! Also, the disks can be removed by getting a fingernail under them and pulling them off. Then clean the remaining stickiness that is left are removing the mylar. The rollovers will be much smoother to roll over, be brighter, and prevent a lot of air balls.

That’s worked perfectly. Game is playing amazing tonight! Got to first wizard mode into the fire and got to stage 2 890,000 points or so. I’m new to this game so every time I play its something new. Only issue currently is the back middle captive ball switch doesn’t register very easily. So I assume it’s probably just a switch adjustment.

What a blast however! Amazing game.

Gawd am I king of the chokers. Killed Smaug twice, played all 3 mini wizard modes. Got farthest I've ever been in battle of the five armies. Choke. Freaking cool ass how it winds down. Got to Barrel Escape 2nd time. Finally finished all 31 modes. White flashing gotta hit one of the two holes and I'd start TABA .... choke. SON OF A B.....
Still not a bad score but fOR A FREAKING hour and 45 minute game playing 3 ball but you'd think it'd be a hell of a lot higher.

20190910_204154 (resized).jpg

Your post is giving me motivation to try and get to TABA...great game man.

I'm now more motivated to get to BOTFA for the 1st time!

No problem you got it

Hi all, hoping for some advice.
My spider mech has been sticking up and not dropping. I knw from reading this whoile thread that LGT advises finding where the mech is binding and bending a little.
The problem is i can't see anywhere it's binding. I can feel it binding at the top 10% of the stroke but can't see anything where it's touching around the mech at all.
The only places i can see where it could be binding is the two shafts, one for the coil that goes through a sleeve and one on the mecch that goes through a little plastic split collett.

I undid the mech from the coil and they both moved smoothly with no binding seperate but now i have screwed them back together the stiff ness is worse, stronger sticking qand on 20% of the stroke maybe.

Hoping someone can tell me where to look next?

Also is there a way to reroute the green/white wires? I've already fixed it once and it's a bit flattened again.

hob1 (resized).jpg

hob2 (resized).jpg

Figured it out, it was the front plate connected to the coil section that the toy section is bolted to. The whole mech was binding when it was together but not apart so i just had to figure which way the plate had to bend then do some experimenting to get it right. Did loose one of the stainless spring clips up into the drop targets somewhere and will have to find one of those somewhere.

A new issue recently, the skill shot will randomly reset when the ball kicks from the trough into the shooter lane. Checked switches to see if there were any issues, all showed working normal. Thoughts? The next ball will sometimes have the skill shot available but seems to be lessand less as I test / play.

Thanks,

I'd try going into Tests - Switches - Matrixed, then bang on the playfield. See if vibration sets any off. If so adjust as needed.

LTG : )

Will do....Thank you!

LTG, Smaug left limit is triggered when banging on the play-field, nothing else....Would this be the issue?

Could be.

LTG : )

What adjustments are available? Does that include removing Smaug?

If so, it would be an issue with his optos. Nothing you could adjust. Check wires, solder joints, flaky opto ?

LTG : )

Thanks again, appreciate the support!

Holy cow that was AWESOME. Finally belong to the club! Take note 15 shots of 32. 32? I thought there was 31 modes?
And for the life of me I cannot beat BOTFA. BB still has high score lol
20190917_192204 (resized).jpg

Nice! How long were you at it?

Thanks! I'm guessing around an hour 30ish? I play 3 ball and drained the first two fairly quick. Oddly enough I told myself it only takes one ball. I ended up getting 3 extra balls along the way. Killed Smaug twice, played through all 3 mini wizard modes twice.

Issue is two plastics touch eatch other and block here : just remove the white beast light reflector in front of them et remove some plastic
received_311232306261863 (resized).jpeg

That's pretty cool man. I have not even got close to that. Getting through Into the Fire is a good game for me haha. I had seen someone post about playing for over an hour. Man that would probably leave me done for the night on a game like this with constant intense multiball activity and crazy light shows.

If you mean the binding it wasn't that. I had to unbolt the spider mech from the coil mech and bend the plate where they bolt together one way so the assembly was truer when bolted back together and ran straight. Hard to explain but easy to see when i finally figured it out.

What helped me is I pretended the machine was telling me I had a small wee wee and I refused to allow such treacherous statements as such. I had to prove it wrong. In fact when I entered my initials Gandalf congratulated the keeper of the brass balls. LOL. (OK that parts not true)

I don't think there's any real "proven secret sauce" to this game but here's what I tend to do (in no particular order).
1.) If the Warg or Spider pops up flashing blue take the shot. Otherwise you may play hell waiting to get WARG and/or Spider down the road.
2.) Avoid actual Smaug locking when possible and shoot the loops when flashing green to obtain the add a ball at max of 3 when possible See #3).
3.) REMEMBER during Smaug MB that a mode will start by shooting the right ramp and being in MB mode increases your chances of qualifying. So Smaug MB is SUPER serious stuff - but not to worry about killing Smaug, but by focusing your efforts you can achieve completion of Feast Frenzy, Smaug MB, Erebor and a mode leaving only Beast frenzy left to qualify to get to your mini wizard mode.
4.) Practice and master hitting right VUK with right flipper and left VUK with Left flipper. WAY easier than trying to shoot opposite corners with opposite flippers. You can do this by stalled ball (easiest) or by holding up the appropriate flipper which will make the ball jump up and you can backhand in.
5.) Mini Wizard modes - just survive if your goal is to reach TABA. Otherwise play like hell to complete it!

Hope this helps!

Great post. Any other tips?

Actually I do have a few more. There's 2 modes that I very much dislike. I "think" it's called Radagast or catch Radagast? I stall the ball to let it timeout. I swear that mode is designed to drain you based upon the beast mechs being up and if you hit the loop from the left the ball tends to have a habit (or should I be witty and say hobbit?) Of running a greater risk of a right side drain from bouncing off the Warg mech. The other mode I dislike is moon runes. I stall the ball because a lighter flip towards the ramp and if the diverter gate comes down you run the risk of a SDTM scenario happening.
And probably the one most important piece of advise I can give is once you get an Akenstone "ramp mode" qualifier done forget about completing any other ramp modes you may start. You run the risk of draining. Turn your efforts to obtaining the other Arkenstones. Once again, I cannot stress enough that Smaug MB is the greatest tool to use to get/advance to the next mini wizard mode and ultimately TABA.

Oh man I LOVE Moon Runes! That might be my favorite mode, since it actually uses the ramp diverter which is unused for almost the entirety of the game! Everything zooms around so fast, it's great!

The sound in this game is truly unbelievable. Owning this longer, I'm noticing little things like for example, the mode where you have to hit the left ramp over and over but hitting switches prior increases the bonus - everytime you hit a switch you hear a dedicated sound that let's you know it's registering but it plays perfect with the overall sound. It's special to that mode only.

Also I find myself trying to look up at the screen bc I know I'm missing awesome video that goes along with the game. I wish there was a LCD in the pf bc of it like alien. The video on the right side of the screen is already helpful with mode tips so would want that to stay as is.

At 7k this game is a steal for what you get considering what we're seeing elsewhere.

Truth!

Hoping POTC gets a great update like Hobbit did last year

I would like a POTC - but man those things are holding value big time.

Incredibly fun and amazing game. The rules are broader than TH but not as complex, IMO. The mechs are outstanding too.

two questions -

1) how do you earn the right outlane target to go into that mode where you can press ring button at the right time to ball save?

2) I hear a horn every so often while playing usually coming out of pops to right flipper. Is that a hurry up and if so, is it captive ball? never know what to do but I assume it means something

btw - this is the best lit game (brightness) out there in the modern era.

Backhand the VUKs...you’ve given me a new mission @clellison. Didn’t know it was possible. I can tell already this will be a major new arrow in my quiver. Can’t wait to get started learning it. Thanks!

Mystery award lights the Gollumn ball save.
I believe the horn you hear comes from when the ball exits to the right flipper after achieving 15 pop bumper hits. A dwarf target will be very temporarily lit blue. If you hit it, an opportunity to achieve an extra ball is created.

Awesome thanks.

Remind be how do you light that mystery? Center captive ball?

Ok after about a half hour of practice I am at about 60% backhanding the right hole from bottom flipper. Already more reliable than I ever was shooting it from the left. I am doing it cradled. Not having much success hitting it on the move. Can’t wait to integrate it into my game. This is so cool! Thanks.

My right hole is just about impossible to backhand. It's either way too early or clunks out. I think the Titan post sleeves are just a touch bigger in diameter than the stock ones were making it a much harder shot.

The ball mist travel through one left in lane and one right in lane. Keep in mind mystery offers several awards not just the precious save.

Might be? I'm using factory. To be very clear you cannot 'dead cradle" a shot to the VUK. The ball needs to barely clear the post when you flip. I typically hit it more often than not so if your posts are larger you just made your game that much harder lol.

Does “dead cradle” mean flipper engaged and ball at rest? Because that’s what I’m doing, and hitting it pretty reliably. Oh, and I’m using titans.

Edit: Another thing I’m liking about this shot is when I miss late it often ends up in the barrels, which is another shot I struggle with from the left flipper.