(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

8 years ago


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  • 12,956 posts
  • 744 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 39 hours ago by LTG
  • Topic is favorited by 272 Pinsiders

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There are 12,956 posts in this topic. You are on page 151 of 260.
#7501 4 years ago

For anyone following along with my saga, new BAG board did not resolve the random LED + Smaug issues. Not sure where to go from here. I've reseated all BAG board connections (obviously), all Smaug connections, all "bulk head" (back of PC box) connections. Anything else that could be causing these constantly-changing light problems? Or is there anyone in the Midwest that wants a good deal on a Hobbit? (It was working great 3 weeks ago )

Losing my patience with this thing.

Edit: Unplugged the ethernet from Smaug and having better luck now, the game is playable again! I had tried this before, so it may have been a combination of BAG board + Smaug? We'll see, just very excited about being able to play my first full game in a while on it, needed a reminder of how fun the game is (even if this is short lived).

#7502 4 years ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

For anyone following along with my saga, new BAG board did not resolve the random LED + Smaug issues. Not sure where to go from here. I've reseated all BAG board connections (obviously), all Smaug connections, all "bulk head" (back of PC box) connections. Anything else that could be causing these constantly-changing light problems? Or is there anyone in the Midwest that wants a good deal on a Hobbit? (It was working great 3 weeks ago )
Losing my patience with this thing.
Edit: Unplugged the ethernet from Smaug and having better luck now, the game is playable again! I had tried this before, so it may have been a combination of BAG board + Smaug? We'll see, just very excited about being able to play my first full game in a while on it, needed a reminder of how fun the game is (even if this is short lived).

So is it a bad motor controller board?

Something had to have melted a servo.

#7503 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

So is it a bad motor controller board?
Something had to have melted a servo.

Mine was not the burnt-motor machine, just non-functioning LEDs. I'll be talking to support to see what they recommend now.

#7504 4 years ago

Anyone have an extra metal laser cut lock down bar overlay with the gold ring like below? Mezel mods is out of the laser cut ones.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0342/1649/products/HOBBIT-PINBALL-LOCKDOWN-BAR-RING-BUTTON-KIT-3_1024x1024.jpg?v=1555077596

pasted_image (resized).jpegpasted_image (resized).jpeg
#7505 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

These.... are.... almost.... DONE!
I've PM'ed everyone on my list, I think. If you signed up and I missed you, please PM and let me know....[quoted image][quoted image]

I got mine today and it's installed! Looks great! You should probably start a new mod thread for it because once people see one in person, they will be hounding you for one. Just add 2 small wire ties to your packaging for the wires under the playfield like other modders do. (I had some) Thanks again!

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#7506 4 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I got mine today and it's installed! Looks great! You should probably start a new mod thread for it because once people see one in person, they will be hounding you for one. Just add 2 small wire ties to your packaging for the wires under the playfield like other modders do. (I had some) Thanks again![quoted image][quoted image]

That's awesome, KBW! Great to see the mod in action on another pin!

My plan is to start a mod thread either tonight or tomorrow but I was waiting for some validation. I tapped connector #94 for power (Coil #041, YEL/BLK, "PLAYFIELD SPOTLIGHTS (LOWER)) but the label was written on the connector with a sharpie, so not sure that was consistent at the factory.

Is that how your connector was labeled, as #94? Was the installation clear with good instructions?

I have another series of these ready to go (yes, that was my labor day weekend) for sale on my Pinside storefront (international shipping, too) and will start a thread for them. Great advice on the wire ties. My original mod has only a 24" of power wire to the mod, the production version has 36" to allow enough play for users to test other 12v power sources if they want to experiment with lighting behavior. Guess that leaves a bit of extra cable dangling about .

Thanks for posting - was really waiting on some feedback!!

#7507 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Is that how your connector was labeled, as #94? Was the installation clear with good instructions?

Yes, the connector was labeled #94 and mine is a late production LE pin. I double-checked and traced the wires to the spot anyhow to be sure. It took less than 5 minutes and it was that long just because I had to go and find some small wire zip ties. The one thing I had to take a double-look at in your instructions is that you said to route the wire down the front edge of the top clear plastic protector, but the pic showed it going over the back edge. I tried it a few different ways, and the front edge and under over toward the target seems to hide it the best.

Quoted from PinballCharlie:

My original mod has only a 24" of power wire to the mod, the production version has 36" to allow enough play for users to test other 12v power sources if they want to experiment with lighting behavior. Guess that leaves a bit of extra cable dangling about .

I was going to mention that the wire lead to the mod should be longer as mine only makes it through the playfield less than 2 inches. The 24" or 36" lead from the splitter makes up for it though. I will eventually pull from auxiliary 12v power for some other mods once I get the chance to install those later.

My opinion (for what it is worth) is that it is a good non-functional mod (other than light) that fits in well and isn't gaudy or ridiculous. Nice job on it!

#7508 4 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

you said to route the wire down the front edge of the top clear plastic protector, but the pic showed it going over the back edge. I tried it a few different ways, and the front edge and under over toward the target seems to hide it the best.

Hmm, I included the picture of the wire going over the back edge as an example of how NOT to do it, LOL The pic say "NO!" - maybe I should just take that picture out :/

So glad you like it and thanks for the helpful advice - I'll start my new thread to stop plugging up our Owners Thread

Edit
New thread here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinworlds-the-hobbit-bag-end-mod-now-available

Marketplace Ad Here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1139-pinworlds/02856-bag-end-mod-for-the-hobbit-pinball-machine-

#7509 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Hmm, I included the picture of the wire going over the back edge as an example of how NOT to do it, LOL The pic say "NO!" - maybe I should just take that picture out :/
So glad you like it and thanks for the helpful advice - I'll start my new thread to stop plugging up our Owners Thread
Edit
New thread here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinworlds-the-hobbit-bag-end-mod-now-available
Marketplace Ad Here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1139-pinworlds/02856-bag-end-mod-for-the-hobbit-pinball-machine-

Amazing, just ordered, thanks for going international!

#7510 4 years ago

Mine just arrived today - Looks great! Hopefully I have a chance to install it before Friday. I'll post my feedback.

#7511 4 years ago

Joined the club this week with a Black Arrow! I put up just over 1.3 million on my second game and haven't got very close since haha. My game was setup to play pretty fast and tough by the previous owner/factory (no center post, outlanes wide open, close to 8 degrees, no post rubber on one side). I do have the hiss or hum from the speakers. I ordered one of the ground loop parts to hopefully solve that one.

Any updated rulesheet out there for the 3.10 code?

Also any must read posts or must have tweaks/mods?

thanks!

#7512 4 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Joined the club this week with a Black Arrow! I put up just over 1.3 million on my second game and haven't got very close since haha. My game was setup to play pretty fast and tough by the previous owner/factory (no center post, outlanes wide open, close to 8 degrees, no post rubber on one side). I do have the hiss or hum from the speakers. I ordered one of the ground loop parts to hopefully solve that one.
Any updated rulesheet out there for the 3.10 code?
Also any must read posts or must have tweaks/mods?
thanks!

Pretty sure if you lift the hood and remove the top of the CPU metal box you'll see a small black box mounted on the back right side. That is a ground loop isolater which I am fairly confident the BA version came standard with it. Might want to check before you order.

#7513 4 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Pretty sure if you lift the hood and remove the top of the CPU metal box you'll see a small black box mounted on the back right side. That is a ground loop isolater which I am fairly confident the BA version came standard with it. Might want to check before you order.

This game does not seem to have one. No worries, 10 bucks from Amazon and gets delivered tomorrow.

#7514 4 years ago

No isolator on my BA hobbit, have to buy one

#7515 4 years ago
Quoted from Thot:

No isolator on my BA hobbit, have to buy one

They work, I added one to mine and the sound is clear and powerful

#7516 4 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

This game does not seem to have one. No worries, 10 bucks from Amazon and gets delivered tomorrow.

I am sincerely shocked it doesn't have one! The BA supposedlt came out with ALL the fixes installed. I know it's a cheap item but mine was factory installed with all the other fixes implemented as well.

#7517 4 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

I am sincerely shocked it doesn't have one! The BA supposedlt came out with ALL the fixes installed. I know it's a cheap item but mine was factory installed with all the other fixes implemented as well.

My game came with one.
It started hissing, and I took it out to test.

The hiss went away...

So, the ground loop isolators can go bad it seems.
But, in my case it wasnt necessary as it sounds good without it.

I have a couple spares, just havent put it back in lol

#7518 4 years ago

My black arrow required one as well. Super cheap super effective. Sounds great!

#7520 4 years ago

Very disappointed to report that my Hobbit nightmares continue, with multiple new issues popping up following the replacement of the BAG board. Has anyone seen a motherboard or something similarly all-encompassing fail on one of these? With the wide variety of problems I've encountered in the last couple weeks I'm not sure what could even be to blame at this point.

Related note, what would you value a BA Hobbit with unknown electrical gremlins at? Is $5500 (1200 less than I have into it) realistic?

I'll be using this weekend to test + document as many issues as I can and will give support another call on Monday, but thinking it may be time to move on. It's been an incredibly frustrating month with the machine.

#7521 4 years ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

Very disappointed to report that my Hobbit nightmares continue, with multiple new issues popping up following the replacement of the BAG board. Has anyone seen a motherboard or something similarly all-encompassing fail on one of these? With the wide variety of problems I've encountered in the last couple weeks I'm not sure what could even be to blame at this point.
Related note, what would you value a BA Hobbit with unknown electrical gremlins at? Is $5500 (1200 less than I have into it) realistic?
I'll be using this weekend to test + document as many issues as I can and will give support another call on Monday, but thinking it may be time to move on. It's been an incredibly frustrating month with the machine.

I would compile a list of known issues and hire a pinball repair tech in your area. It will likely cost far less than you seem to be knocking off the sale price and I bet the right guy would get that awesome game all fixed up and playing perfectly.

#7522 4 years ago

Sold my hobbit a few weeks back and forgot I have 3 brand new parts left

Driver board
Ball trough
And a power supply.......pending.

If your intrested shoot me a pm. Will be a lot less then the web page since I have no need for these any more.
Stock photos. I can take real ones in the morning.
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#7523 4 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

I would compile a list of known issues and hire a pinball repair tech in your area. It will likely cost far less than you seem to be knocking off the sale price and I bet the right guy would get that awesome game all fixed up and playing perfectly.

Good call. I live in a small city with only one pinball repair tech (that I know of) and I've been reluctant to call him because I know he's an older guy that specializes in EM's so I'm worried this may be out of his wheelhouse, but I'll get in touch and see if he'd be interested in giving it a go.

Jon9508 I may be interested in your power supply, I'll let you know.

#7524 4 years ago

Ground Loop Isolator came in. All the speaker hum appears to be gone now.

Any rulesheet for the latest code out there? This game has a ton going on-wow.

#7525 4 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Any rulesheet for the latest code out there?

Everything is pretty well documented with exception to Battle of the Five Armies. I've been tempted to pull the glass and document it but I want my first time to be special HAH HAH! I've never beat that level let alone got past stage 3.

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#7526 4 years ago

Hobbit has to be the best value in Pinball right now. If I liked the theme, this game would never leave my possession. It rivals alien in presentation and sound. Simply incredible.

I'm going on an adventure!

#7527 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Hobbit has to be the best value in Pinball right now. If I liked the theme, this game would never leave my possession. It rivals alien in presentation and sound. Simply incredible.
I'm going on an adventure!

I’ve never seen the movies nor am I into them but I really enjoy this pin. One day I’m going to own one.

#7528 4 years ago

Ok thanks guys. I will poke around what is out there.

Also after putting quiet fans in my Stern Spike games, this fan is super noticeable. I will probably go after replacing that with something quiet in the near future as well.

#7529 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Hobbit has to be the best value in Pinball right now. If I liked the theme, this game would never leave my possession. It rivals alien in presentation and sound. Simply incredible.
I'm going on an adventure!

It's a very good theatrical experience to play this pin in a home environment with a subwoofer. I bought one after playing it a few times at shows, but didn't previously see the movie. After we got it, my kids bought us the DVD set for Christmas and we watched all the movies picking out the scenes and call outs that they used.

#7530 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Hobbit has to be the best value in Pinball right now. If I liked the theme, this game would never leave my possession. It rivals alien in presentation and sound. Simply incredible.
I'm going on an adventure!

I dunno, Deadpool is a terrific game and 3-4 k cheaper here (i have both).

I confess i didn't think Hobbit needed an external sub and connected one to Deadpool and Spiderman that were sitting next to it.

After playing the Hobbit i decided it really could use the sub. It is spectacular, but more like thunder rumble than the music that Deadpool etc gives.

I did want to turn the sub section of the sound down, i can do that by turning the channel down on the mixer but thought that there should be a section in the menu to turn it down.
Can anyone tell me which bit of the menu (if any) control the sub sounds? Thinking it maybe Fanfare?
menu1 (resized).jpgmenu1 (resized).jpg

#7531 4 years ago

I don't know - for me every game I buy gets a sub attached to it. Not even a question bc it makes a huge difference.

Hobbit is no different.

Never played a game where that sub didn't make a nice difference

#7532 4 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Can anyone tell me which bit of the menu (if any) control the sub sounds? Thinking it maybe Fanfare?
[quoted image]

Buy a sub that has a volume knob or install a cross over. Considering JJP machines are 12v should be super easy to implement and would actually help clean the bottom end sound up that much more allowing you to separate the frequencies and use the cab sub more of a mid sub and the one underneath as your thumper.

#7533 4 years ago

What's needed to hook up a sub? Any recommendations on what sub to get?

#7534 4 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

What's needed to hook up a sub? Any recommendations on what sub to get?

RCA male to dual female RCA signal splitter plugged into the PC audio port.

#7535 4 years ago

The sub has a volume knob and a cross over but i am running three machines through it. I want to turn the bass down on the Hobbit, leave it as is for Deadpool and turn it up for Spiderman. I'll just pull the cover off the mixer and use the internal volume controls, i thought it may be something i could do in the menu easier is all.

#7536 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I don't know - for me every game I buy gets a sub attached to it. Not even a question bc it makes a huge difference.
Hobbit is no different.
Never played a game where that sub didn't make a nice difference

I don’t think TNA needs another sub

#7537 4 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

The sub has a volume knob and a cross over but i am running three machines through it. I want to turn the bass down on the Hobbit, leave it as is for Deadpool and turn it up for Spiderman. I'll just pull the cover off the mixer and use the internal volume controls, i thought it may be something i could do in the menu easier is all.

With all due respect that has to sound like garbage sometimes. Best results will be had by individual subs.

#7538 4 years ago

Pretty common thing with up to three subs according to all the threads i've read about it here. There are people who make the mixers that i used especially for pinball with 3 inputs.
The only one that sounds like garbage is the Hobbit as it's just a rumbly thunder sort of background that i think is related to the input volume.

http://tanglestech.com/Three-way-Audio-Mixer--for-use-with-the-TPP-1035-Pin2Sub-adapter_p_28.html

#7539 4 years ago
Quoted from Barkz:

I don’t think TNA needs another sub

That's a good one. I remember the sub being really good. Good point.

#7540 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

That's a good one. I remember the sub being really good. Good point.

Yeah I was shocked when I played it the first time. Definitely agree with you generally though outside of that one.

#7541 4 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

I want to turn the bass down on the Hobbit, leave it as is for Deadpool and turn it up for Spiderman.

This Pinnovators gizmo can do that. I have 3 pins on each sub with it and there is no distortion, individual bass volume control ... best solution I've seen.

http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=58&osCsid=v1clt4fijjhrcp2g867tdbbkp2

#7542 4 years ago

How the heck do you keep this game going with three balls. If I don't drain through Precioussss, I hit the spider and it fly's right straight through the post? Both my wife and I can't seem to get past the 900K score and as of late the scores are much worse than that. I know I'm not the most accurate shot, but I can't be this bad either... What incline degree angle should this be set to?

#7543 4 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

How the heck do you keep this game going with three balls. If I don't drain through Precioussss, I hit the spider and it fly's right straight through the post? Both my wife and I can't seem to get past the 900K score and as of late the scores are much worse than that. I know I'm not the most accurate shot, but I can't be this bad either... What incline degree angle should this be set to?

Pitch 7.1 degrees.

Max out the sling power, lower the flipper power so that the ball makes the ramp from a cradled position but not fast.

#7544 4 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

How the heck do you keep this game going with three balls. If I don't drain through Precioussss, I hit the spider and it fly's right straight through the post? Both my wife and I can't seem to get past the 900K score and as of late the scores are much worse than that. I know I'm not the most accurate shot, but I can't be this bad either... What incline degree angle should this be set to?

Just hit spider with left flipper

#7545 4 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

How the heck do you keep this game going with three balls.

I've made over 7 mill. Serious nudging. Anytime the ball comes remotely close to hitting the top portion of the left sling nudge it. During multi balls keep your focus on the flippers and right outlane.

Quoted from gordonshumway:

I hit the spider and it fly's right straight through the post?

Attempt to hit the sides not straight on.

Quoted from gordonshumway:

What incline degree angle should this be set to?

Personal preference. 6.8 to 7.1 - Just remember the higher you go the faster it will play but also require you to increase coil strength levels. Also increasing coil strenth can cause balls to fly off the hobbit trail and you may have to bend them a tad.

#7546 4 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

This Pinnovators gizmo can do that. I have 3 pins on each sub with it and there is no distortion, individual bass volume controlc

Yeah so can the Aussie one i linked to that i have, just means crawling under the machines to do it is all. I'll do that next maintenance day.

#7547 4 years ago

Just joined the club! Got an LE the jjp update has not been done to it. The game came with a playfield protector and after 4 years was all sorts of hazy and nasty. I cut it off with a Scissors tonight and game plays fast now only issue is the beast Mech are now an 1/8” higher because of playfield protector. Any way to adjust the height of beast mechs so they lay flat? Also, my lock buttons seem very high and are causing ball to skip now.

ABFFC79A-6CB5-45F2-9E17-C434C1B4A4DB (resized).jpegABFFC79A-6CB5-45F2-9E17-C434C1B4A4DB (resized).jpegECC74D20-E70B-43DD-97BD-719DDD6825FE (resized).jpegECC74D20-E70B-43DD-97BD-719DDD6825FE (resized).jpegF4C8CE81-C099-402E-850C-2B30674B6D1F (resized).jpegF4C8CE81-C099-402E-850C-2B30674B6D1F (resized).jpegFC90D5E6-468A-4D1E-B6C8-3C42A9410229 (resized).jpegFC90D5E6-468A-4D1E-B6C8-3C42A9410229 (resized).jpeg
#7548 4 years ago
Quoted from Toppers:

Any way to adjust the height of beast mechs so they lay flat?

Bottom of the mech loosen a nut and turn the rubber stopper down and retighten.

LTG : )

#7549 4 years ago

Thanks LTG! I’ll fix tomorrow What about the green lock buttons? The ramp jumps hard when it hits them as well.

Quoted from LTG:

Bottom of the mech loosen a nut and turn the rubber stopper down and retighten.
LTG : )

#7550 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Bottom of the mech loosen a nut and turn the rubber stopper down and retighten.
LTG : )

Also, there are protectors on the L O C K rollovers - you can remove them and it should fix that issue

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