Most of the games have needed this adjustment.
It really helps if you route the wire behind the post so the ball passes easily and just rotate the wire tie or put a tiny one in its place.

Dont loosen the post it will fall out after awhile.

Hi guys, new owner of Hobbit here, purchased from the original owner (an arcade) that had operated it since January. Machine was made in August 2018, and I'm running the newest software, 3.10.

I've been having an issue with LED's 'freezing' after the pin has been on for an extended period of time (a couple hours or so). This can happen during gameplay or attract mode, the lights will just quit changing colors and will stay on whatever color happened to be lit up at the time of the issue. The game continues to otherwise function fine, with sounds/animations/scoring all working, it's purely an LED issue (but does make the game essentially unplayable). Game returns to normal after being reset.

I've searched and seen some other people with the same issue but haven't seen a solution. Any ideas? I PM'ed LTG but he had no suggestions. As this is my first 'nice' game it's been a little disheartening how many issues have come up (I've had the glass out almost every day since I purchased it 10 days ago), but I can at least wrap my head around the other problems, I'm at a loss on this one.

Thanks for any help.

The cable from the board to the screen is hdmi right?
If so, i would connect another monitor and see if the problem persists, if it does it´s probebly something with the graph card, maybe fan error?

I´m sorry, i dont have the game, but there is where i would start if it were a computer.

Hmmm - I haven't seen that behavior on my Hobbit, but I certainly have on my WOZ with the old 5v lighting system. I'll be curious about this solution, too, since I thought the new lighting system got rid of first generation WOZ-like problems.

I'd email JJP support and see what they say.

@dr-pin The issue is with the playfield lights/LED's, not the LCD screen. The motherboard outputs to the light/LED board with a USB to Micro USB cable, which I have tried replacing already.

@pinballcharlie The majority of my google searches lead me to WOZ threads, it seems this is very rare on Hobbits. If I could just get a replacement LED board for this game I would try that immediately but JJP doesn't seem to sell replacements for Hobbits, only WOZ. The seller claims this issue never happened while they were operating the game on location but I did overhear them telling another employee "good riddance" as I was carrying the pin out to my car, so I'm beginning to wonder if what I was told was bullshit.

Fairly confident this will be the last/only JJP I purchase, I really enjoy the game but am growing to resent it as a new issue seems to pop up every time I play. Do you guys have similar experiences or did I just get a lemon? I've had sound quality issues (resolved w/ ground loop isolator), stuck beast mechs (partially resolved by realigning mech), false switch registers (need to adjust switch still), stuck drop targets (still not sure on this one), and broken plastics (slings), all within the game being in my house for 10 days. Not what I expected for a machine at this price point.

Shot them an email, wasn't sure if they'd give me any help considering I'm not the original buyer.

JJP pins definitely require more upkeep than Stem games simply because there is way more mechanical/electrical "stuff" to deal with and Hobbit is perhaps the most complicated one. I've experienced the problems you listed above except for the false switch hits and the LED lockups. Switch problems usually just require a little tweaking and are common on all pins.

The first thing you have to do is go through the playfield assemblies that are causing the problems and figure out how they work by manually actuating each mechanism and observing what is happening. Since most of the assemblies are redundant, you'll have no problem observing a working mech. Once you figure out how it works, the problem should become obvious.

And I wouldn't give up Hobbit - it's an amazing pin that is really something special.

The drop targets are used a ton and so are the beast mechs. Of course one would expect issues. The drop target issues, the target has a plastic ledge... if the ledge is worn replace the target. If the target doesnt reset it's likely to be either a broken spring or the small coil locking screw is loose or came out which requires full disassembly to get to it. You're able to test that theory by seeing if the coil is sitting cock eyed and you can move it back and forth.
The beast mechs binding up and/making noise. Realign but maybe add a thin film of lubricant between the metal cage parts. Whatever that stuff is called that people use on their spinners.
The Hobbit is some what of a mechanical nightmare but it's the price you pay for having cool toys. I suggest you get a whole set of new springs on hand too. Oh, and the back stops of both holes are infamous for becoming super loose. Use your finger and see if there's any slop to em. Mine was a floor model and the clear coat started to crack around the holes. Get a set of Cliffys on it ASAP. (PS, that job is NOT fun to do).

Sorry i misinterpreted. Are all leds acting up or just a section of them?

From my experience fiddling a lot with Digital leds, they usually start acting up locking and such when the drive currency is going to low.
If i were you i would connect a voltmeter to the circuits affected and check if the voltage drops over time when things get hot etc.

Just a suggestion, as i said i dont own the game, so i might be totally out there...

Pinball can be frustrating! Stern has spent a lot of time reducing the mechanics and complexity of their games so they are less frustrating to work on. They are also, IMO more boring than JJP and AP games. You’re in a spot all of us have been in - on the verge of giving up out of frustration! We’ve all had that moment of “I’ll just sell them all!”.

Don’t give up. You’re getting good advice here, and you’ll get it eventually.

@clellison "mechanical nightmare" is very accurate so far, and while that's a bit frustrating to me I wouldn't be in here complaining if it were only mechanical issues. The LED's freezing is game-breaking and no one, including JJP support, seems to have any idea what's causing that. JJP support did say I can get a replacement BAG (LED control?) board though so I'll be giving that a try if no other suggestions come up. Diving into mechanical issues is a lot less fun when you know there are more serious underlying problems that you can't seem to address.

@dr-pin All playfield LED's are affected (I believe flashers still function fine though). It could definitely be an issue of low power, but I wouldn't have expected that to only come up after long periods of time. Does anyone know if the power supply output is adjustable? Haven't had to deal with that on a game before. Probably worth mentioning at this point that I am VERY new to pinball repair/ownership with this being my 3rd pin. Feeling like I bit off more than I can chew at the moment which is kind of comical to me considering it's a year old machine that was fully functioning when I purchased it.

If the game is only HUO and the problem only shows up after hours and hours of being on, why not just power cycle the game to clear the issue? I never let games in my collection just sit on all the time.

I was planning on putting the game in at my local arcade eventually, but regardless I don't like having things broken with no explanation. It's also already ruined some good games between me and friends, as we've had to reset the machine during long 4 player matches. There's other reasons (I'll sell the pin eventually, whatever's causing this may cause other issues, it may start happening more frequently in the future, etc) but at the end of the day I bought a $6500 game, I don't think I'm out of line wanting it to work 100% perfect.

First ... make sure that you have the newest software release installed. It's been a long time since something similar happened to me, so I'll share my story in case JJP didn't totally resolve the issue yet (maybe they did in my case). Right after the really big Hobbit update was released, Ted was looking for us to help point out any bugs that we find (I think it was just beta code), and he was fixing those rather quickly. At some point in that timeline, I had a party that lasted about 8 hours. Near the end of the night the sound went dead. On reboot, it came back. I reported it to Ted and there was something that they were trying to trace down that was causing this (maybe a memory leak or something). Shortly after that, they put out a quick update that would reboot the pin automatically if it was in the attract mode for a long time - after so many attract mode cycles. I really can't remember if they fixed the underlying issue or not. Maybe it is related to your issue. So ... make sure you have the most recent software version and if you have long pinball parties with the pin being constantly played, maybe manually reboot it after about 4 hours of play to be sure. Again ... I don't know if the issue that caused my problem was fixed (maybe it was in later updates), but if you have some intense competition going on, reboot it every 4 hours or so and it might be ok. This may or may not help your issue, but thought I would share this info with you.

IIRC, the LCD control panel has an option in its menu to reset defaults. Give that a whirl.

JJP support has no suggestions or ideas so I'm at a bit of a loss for my freezing-LED issue. New BAG board is $230+ and Kevin (support) does not think that will necessarily fix my problem, so that's more than I'd like to gamble at the moment. Going to try a different power source tonight (run an extension cord to a different circuit) and possibly a different location tomorrow (friend's arcade) to see if I've somehow got 'dirty' power in my old house that could be making the machine unhappy. Will also be trying messing with the ferrites on the BAG board cables. Grasping at straws, so if anyone else has anything they think is worth trying let me know. Want to rule everything out before I spend a couple hundred bucks on a new board, and if that doesn't fix it the machine will go up for sale with the issue disclosed as I can't justify keeping this expensive of a pin w/out being able to route it in the future.

Try replacing the USB cable that runs from the BAG board to the CPU. It made a difference on my game.

Good suggestion, tried that last night with no luck though.

I'd also try reloading software. Full image overwrite.

I'll give this a go too. Think it's worth trying an older version or should I stick with 3.10? I assume it's not an issue with 3.10 itself or more people would be complaining about this.

Stick with 3.10. Download a fresh copy, make a new USB stick image, and overwrite everything.

Sorry I have been away from watching this thread a few days. But, I had the same issue exactly you had after about 8 months and I was able to get a BAG board replacement. After I did that it completely fixed the issue and it has been working ever since (2 years ago). I tried new usb cables and reinstalling the software and that didn’t work. BAG board swap out fixed it right up.

Don’t waste your time on the software updates, I’ll bet it’s the BAG board.

Cool, this what I wanted to hear before pulling the trigger on one.

Yesterday the machine began having a new problem, RGB LED's would flash randomly during start up, and then be turned off completely when the game booted. Interestingly, Smaug was throwing "movement" errors as well. I tried reseating the BAG board USB cable and checked other things I had laid hands on, reset the machine a few times, and it eventually started up in better shape. Now all of the RGB LED's are working, but the 'general illumination' (white) LED's in the bottom left section of the playfield are not turning on. Smaug is now moving completely fine again, but his mouth is not moving during speech. Attached image shows the dark section.

I assume all this is related and hopefully a new BAG board resolves all my issues, but is there anything I should check before I spend the $250 on one? Smaug's issues are making me very nervous.

Thanks again for any help. Worth mentioning I was able to fix both my mechanical issues (beast just needed realignment and drop target coil had somehow come completely loose), just not sure where to even start with the LED stuff.
IMG_20190826_215853 (resized).jpg

Before I replaced the BAG board Smaug did at funny and the lights would be messed up soon as it booted up.

I'm going to order a replacement and hopefully that resolves my issues. Thanks for the help, will post an update when the board arrives, think I'm going to leave the machine unplugged until then to preserve my sanity.

I just replaced the motor for smaug's mouth. The old motor was very burnt (black melted hole in it!) but after installing the fresh one still no signs of life. I followed the guide on aligning motor any tips. I'm not ruling out that I made an error somewhere along the line just wondering if anyone had any experience swapping out this component. Thanks!

Did it blow a fuse ?

LTG : )

Didn't check...oops... will do that now and report

nogoodnames222: Hearing that the seller made comments like he/she did before you even left the sale really burns me up. Have you confronted them as to ALL the issues you're having? They probably will not do anything to remedy it, but if it were me, I'd certainly let them know that YOU know what they said and that their "fully functional" machine is not that!

JJP was very helpful to me on a machine I bought NIB, but a few years after production. Mine was considered new and carried a warranty, where yours is used, but I'm sure they will be of help. I'm sorry for your experience. Hang in there, you'll get it all fixed. Shouldn't be this way...

I brought up some of the issues with the seller and they insist the machine was completely reliable for the 8 months they were operating it, with only minor mechanical problems. I find that hard to believe, but to their credit they sold me a great looking machine for a good price, and it was 100% functional at the time of purchase. Since getting it back to my house things have been a different story but I can't blame them for that, I think I've just been incredibly unlucky in the couple weeks I've had the pin.

JJP has been responsive, but unfortunately they don't have an answer on this one and I suspect they're refraining from outright telling me "try a new BAG board" in case that ends up not resolving the issue. I'm hopeful a new BAG board will sort out my problems though. The machine's behavior is getting increasingly erratic and it's no longer really playable, which is a bummer. I know I'm probably coming across whiny + entitled, but this is is my first modern pin (and most expensive purchase I've made in my short life, besides cars + a house) and it's just been a very disappointing experience. It hasn't killed my enthusiasm for the hobby but I think I'll be sticking to Sterns in the future.

These.... are.... almost.... DONE!

I've PM'ed everyone on my list, I think. If you signed up and I missed you, please PM and let me know....

Ten Bag Ends (resized).JPG

Bag End Instructions 1.0 (resized).jpg

My Hobbit couldn’t be more trouble free.
Knock on wood. Just under 2000 plays unless code update erased some audits.
Spring broke on drop target and even I could fix it. Owned about 3 plus years.

I bought a NIB Stern Deadpool pro and a HUO Hobbit Black Arrow for my first two. I've got my head under the bonnet of both machines about equally i spose. I wouldn't discourage another brand of machine just because of maintenance, they all need it more or less.

I know have a couple of Sterns, the one JJP, some gotlieb, Williams and Bally machines and my first EM is on it's way. Buy good machines, surround yourself with experienced people and use the resource here giving back when you are able.

You'll love your machines more and more as you get to know them more intimately.

I do know what you are feeling as my Genie seems to be a constant issue after another and i get sick of the sight of it sometimes.

. please delete double post

Lol - I hear you. This is exactly how I feel about my early order 5v light board WOZ. Sometimes I can’t handle even looking at it

Well Im having the exact same problem as some of the others with the Orc beast. It started off as it registering a shot as soon as it would pop up so I looked at the back leaf switch and it looks like the piece of metal has separated so it doesn't spring back the way it should, causing it to rest on itself and register every time. After investigating more i can see the same wire as the previous post chaffing really bad and about to break. I had family over and I wasn't going to not let them play it haha. It lasted the weekend and now Im pretty sure it is all the way broke. I will be taking it out to fix the broken wire and put a bunch of heat shrink on it and then replacing the leaf switch. I will do my best at posting to the forum whenever I get around to it.

My deadpool and transformers need some work too so Im going to go on a shopping spree and just have a Saturday of pinball maintenance and scotch haha

Guys remind me what do you hit when you hear that bottle sound coming from right top flipper? Also - is the scoring out of balance on skill shot? I ended up getting the inlane SS which is nearly impossible and it gave me the same points as the rollover target SS which is quite easy. Maybe I'm missing something?

Btw this game really is fantastic. Such a sleeper. Plays differently then others. Would never leave if my collection was larger ; )

Skill shots are all weighted, you get more i believe if you don't select it but play the one you are dealt.
Rollovers for example, the more of them you hit (in the order of lit especially) the more points. Same with the inlanes, get the flashing one and get more.

I do understand what you are saying though, you can get the same for dwarf or rollover as man or inlanes.

good to know though about getting more for ones selected for you. I'll need to check how much more.

I wanted to give a update on the post from yesterday. I wrote JJP and they have been very helpful helping me get the parts I need to fix the assembly and how i can prevent it from happening in the future. This is the first time Ive had to work with JJP for issues and Im impressed. Much better than Stern so far. Once i get the parts and the time I will post what I can

The fuse is good f709. Light was on and also none of the other components that go off of that fuse are having any issues.
I'm hoping I didn't mess up the new servo, I was quite careful not to spin it installing the horn...

If the old servo was melted, it possible the controller board is fried.

Some investigation with a voltmeter is in order now.

You have to see what caused the meltdown.

Thanks, I assume that board is the one attached to Smaug himself? Nothing else on the game is malfunctioning and Smaug is moving left to right properly with no issues. Idk what kind of failure on the board's part would have caused such a meltdown!

Appreciate all the advice here...
I put some cardboard between the head switch and reconnected it to power to test.
Still the same behavior.
I tried plugging it into power for a properly working mech and still the same behavior.
I've tried engaging and disengaging all of the switches I could find and testing it further and it still simply won't raise the orc head.

At this point I've reached out to JJP support to see if they have any ideas or if I need to purchase a new orc mech.

Appreciate all the help... if there are any other ideas, let me know! Would love to get Hobbit back up and running!

Thanks.

If the mechanism is binding you'll have to spend a lot of time getting it lined up to work smoothly.

LTG : )

It should drop like a rock with game turned off.

Bending it a bit forwards or backwards where it binds usually does the trick.